Heater for '98 Sport
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27911
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 9:20am
Topic: Heater for '98 Sport
Posted By: 63 Skier
Subject: Heater for '98 Sport
Date Posted: September-24-2012 at 12:43pm
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I'm going to install a heater this winter in my '98 Sport Nautique, was hoping for some input into which model I should buy. On Skidim's site, I see 2 models, a 28,000 btu 2 outlet and a 40,000 btu 3 outlet. http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1020" rel="nofollow - Heaters If I have room, my plan is to install 2 outlets on the driver's footboard, on the right the fixed vent, on the left an extendable hot tube. Is that where the factory vents were mounted if the boat came with a heater? It says there is a 3 speed fan. I have plenty of accessory breakers available on the dash, but where would a 3 speed switch normally be mounted? Thanks for any help with this! ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Replies:
Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: September-24-2012 at 12:47pm
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Buy this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-991102-1/ Never have ran ours on anything less than the highest setting. ------------- Tubing Sucks. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-24-2012 at 1:04pm
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David, Is this planned for the 63 or 98? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-24-2012 at 1:06pm
For Tim http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-991102-1/" rel="nofollow - here's a proper link since he stll hasn't figured out how to do it!!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
watrski wrote:Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: September-24-2012 at 1:10pm
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Unless you think you need a defroster go with all hot tubes they are so much handier than the fixed vent. I have 2 hot tubes and a fixed, I was thinking the fixed vent would warm my feet while I drive. Much better to just pull out the hot tube a set my feet on the end. I mounted the switch to the trim panel around the throttle and power it up with an unused dash breaker, didn't want to add extra holes to the dash. I'm going to rebuild that panel and move the switch to a panel I built under the dash that holds stereo gear. |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-24-2012 at 1:10pm
Sorry, I should have made that clearer in the post, it's for the '98. I'll edit the original post. The heater in the '63 is stop the boat, raise the cover, and warm hands over the manifolds for a bit! ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-24-2012 at 1:27pm
^^This is going to drive your heater choice more than anything else.^^ We just put a 3-outlet heater in our BFN, which had a ton of real estate on the air box... and it just barely fit. No way to get a 3-outlet in the 196- in fact, the 2-outlet is going to require some creativity to fit. Most likely going to be mounted hanging from the deck- which is far from ideal. I would imagine you'll be real estate challenged on a Sport. The retractable heater tubes are great, but take up a lot of room- the 4" diam, 9" long tube that extends off the back side of the panel is something to consider when looking at your space constraints. You also need to leave room for the 3" air hoses to route. I would recommend a 2-outlet heater, with a fixed vent at the driver's feet and one heater tube for the observer(s). I wouldnt cut any holes for the speed selector switch... if the heater is worth turning on, its worth having on high. Put it right next to the heater if you want (buried under the dash), and just turn it on and off with a accessory breaker, as suggested. ------------- |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-24-2012 at 4:50pm
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I'll get under there and take a close look at the space available. All I have will be behind the angled footboard. I believe just forward of there is the molded battery box under the bow cushions, probably doesn't leave much room. On the '98 it has the flat bow area with storage underneath. So far I haven't used that storage, though it's always wet there so I pull the cushion and open the hatch to let things dry out. I wonder, if space is a problem, if I can mount it down there, would make for a longer run of coolant hoses and blower vent hose but would solve the room problem. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-24-2012 at 5:04pm
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I agree with Tim on the fan speed switch. Keep the dash original and if you do want the switch, just mount it someplace under the dash. I would be concerned about available power on the aux. circuit. If you haven't upgraded the wire size for the + & - feed to the dash, now is the time to do it. That blower is going to pull some amps that I do not feel the OEM wiring will handle it without a pretty big voltage drop affecting the whole system. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: rogier
Date Posted: September-24-2012 at 5:17pm
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In my sport 1992 I previously owned, I mounted the 4 outlet unit against the driver side footpanel on the inside. This eliminated most of the space back there, but heat was more important. Speed selection: high or off is the only thing you will use. I eliminated the switch al together and turned it on/off with the breaker on the dashboard. 2 or 4 outlets depends on your plan for the heat exhausts. What really matters is the BTU the unit produces. 40k heat resulted in a system that did not force me to extract the vents every time I used it, the 28k I use in a SANTE 2005 of a friend is always out and extracted to heat the parts that need it most. Not really scientific, but for your info. Something I forgot the first time building in heat: 1 - Mount the Y-pipe for the hot water flow. No Y pipe is less flow, and less heat 2 - Mount a 160 degree thermostat, this will allow the unit to produce the BTU it can deliver 3 - If you have other heat demanding parts, consider their consumption. In my sport the propane evaporator consumed almost all the heat available in the system already. 4 - DONT FORGET TO WINTERIZE THE HEATER |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-24-2012 at 7:17pm
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So Rogier, did you use all 4 outlets? If so, where did you direct them? I don't plan to try to install defrost (unless someone tells me some easy way to vent it). I do see your point about the btu's, if I can fit a 40,000 btu unit I assume I can block off the extra outlet and just use 2 vents. I'll definitely use a y-pipe, but don't plan to fool with the thermostat, my boat runs a rock solid 160 and heat isn't important enough for me to change that. Pete, I didn't realize it was recommended to upsize the power and ground to the dash, I'll look into that. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: cooperlacy
Date Posted: September-25-2012 at 12:05am
| Unless you plan to run antifreeze through the heater core to winterize it, I wouldn't recommend the unit from Summit. The factory heater core has the bottom port that is even with the bottom of the unit to allow all liquid to drain out when you drain the heater hose. From the picture on Summit's website, it appears that the bottom port is more than an inch from the bottom of heater core. It would be nearly impossible to get all liquid out of the bottom which would require you to use antifreeze. |
Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: September-25-2012 at 12:18am
Both are made by heatercraft, FYI. http://www.heatercraft.com/ I unhook mine and suck the water out with the shop vac. ------------- Tubing Sucks. |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-25-2012 at 12:19am
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Are the units listed on Skidim the same as the factory ones? Should I be looking elsewhere? ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: rogier
Date Posted: September-25-2012 at 6:33am
I used all 4 vents. Both the driver and the passenger had 1 extractable vent at their feet/knees and 1 fixed vent with the louvres that you can direct/close at a high position in the boat. In daily use, the driverside facial vent was the most attractive one, I drilled that through the circuit breaker board, since that one was already in a bad state by all the switches that the previous owner mounted. The factory unit is a 200H unit from heater craft with two extractable vents. For the price I would go Summit, I do my winterization with antifreeze anyway. |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: September-25-2012 at 8:36am
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I am not sure on the model of heater I have installed as it was installed by the previous owner but I do have 4 outlets which are directed as follows, 1 to drivers feet, 1 to drivers right hand, 1 to passenger, 1 all the way to the rear seat which then splits into 2 and come out in the seat base for the passengers feet. The fan speed and on/off switch is a single rotary dial on the dash and is pretty unobtrusive. The winterization of the core was pretty straight forward although I had already blown all the water out of it with lung power before it was topped with antifreeze with the rest of the system. I have attached a couple of pictures showing the connections and the outlet on the passenger side (same on drivers side), obviously my boat is an older 1989 rather than 98 sport but it might give you some ideas.   ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-25-2012 at 10:10am
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Thanks for the info and pictures guys! Matt, is the rear outlet useful? I'd think that heat just was gone right away, even at no wake speeds. I don't think a 3rd outlet is needed for me, or if I had it I'd put a 2nd hot tube right below the 1st one so 2 people could have tubes. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: September-25-2012 at 10:19am
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When you have a dry suit and a thermal onesie on anything that gives even a little heat is welcome, yes it works but its not great. The rear vents would work better with flexible tubes that you could shove up your sleeves  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: September-25-2012 at 11:28am
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David I have a 2 outlet heater in my 98 Sport. It is mounted behind the drivers side kick panel with one outlet for driver and the pull out flexible heat pipe both mounted in the driver kick panel. The heater was already installed when I purchased the boat it also has a shower with mixer. The heater gets a lot more use than the shower. I have since installed a y pipe before the RAW water pump inlet and that made the heater work much better. The fan speed switch is mounted on the side control panel near the safety lanyard. I also have a amp mounted behind the driver kick panel and it is getting quite tight in that small space not sure if a 4 outlet would fit in the space. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: September-25-2012 at 12:13pm
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My '95 came stock with the two vent heater and shower. The factory position for the switch is next to the lanyard behind the throttle. My wife likes the retractable vent, she pulls it out and lays it on the floor at her feet then drapes a towel over hers and the kids legs and the heat warms the lower half of the body. The stationary vent blows more than enough heat under the helm to keep the driver's lower half warm. I also recirculate antifreeze through the whole system and motor for winterizing. |
Posted By: AAM196
Date Posted: November-02-2012 at 1:18am
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I too have been considering adding heater to my 99 SN196. Should I order the complete kit from Nautiqueparts.com / discountinboardmarine or piecing my own kit together from Summit racing? Anyone put a complete list together? Or would I be up to $500 this way as well? I also thought about going with 3 outlet version to get some heat to the back but seems like a lot of effort for little reward unless there was a way to mount a hot tube they could pull out to shove under towel. Thoughts? |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-28-2014 at 1:21am
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So this is typical for me, I was saying I was putting in a heater back in September 2012, now here I am 2 years later and I'm finally actually doing it. I bought a Heatercraft 230, which has 2 larger vents and hot tubes, and one smaller vent that can go to the driver's feet. I know I'll put the small outlet to the driver's feet on the kick panel, and one hot tube to the passenger side of the kick panel. The question is where to put the 2nd hot tube. Has anyone mounted one in the walk-through panel to the left of the driver's foot compartment? It is upholstered but I think there is room to mount the tube without it bothering the driver's knees or anything else. I think there's room if I wanted to just mount it on the kick panel like the other one, but thought it might be more helpful for passengers if it came out of the walk-through. Thoughts? ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: September-28-2014 at 12:31pm
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We mounted a mazda radiator with an electric fan attached up in the caverness bow of our BFN which was awesome and cheap...no tubes...just a ton of hot air blasting the entire bow area coming out in drivers lap and passengers feet with some blankets to catch the heat we were snug as a bug ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: October-15-2014 at 8:26pm
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I got the heater installed last weekend. Much more of a knuckle-buster than I expected, lots of time squeezed into the space under the dash, and had a very hard time getting the hoses snaked through to the engine. But, all done and works very well, kept warm even at idle with my 143 stat. I ended up mounting the fixed vent and one hot tube on the footboard, the other hot tube is left loose and tucked under the walk-through step. It isn't in the way, and I think won't get crushed, gives a lot of flexibility to go all the way over to the port gunwale for the passengers. I know it's not as tidy as some would like, but I'm happy with it. The temp gauge reads a bit different. It's either because I re-located the sender from being directly into the manifold to a T extending up from the manifold, or it might just be the heater keeping the engine cooler. It stayed around 140-150 on the gauge, normally runs just a tick over 160. After a while it finally heated up to just below 160 on the gauge. I'll watch it and see what the pattern is. Very glad to finally have heat! ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-15-2014 at 8:43pm
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Well now you have my curiosity up Dave. I have a heater but at idle I don't get anything. Where do your hoses connect,one of mine comes off near the intake, the other is connected to where the drain plug would be at the u by the circulation pump. I was thinking about installing a pump or the y that goes into the intake hose before the raw water pump. Mine always runs at 160 was just out yesterday in 50-60ish outside temps,I think there is a t at the temp sender too I'll have to check. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: October-16-2014 at 12:34am
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Sorry no pics, I can take a few when I'm back at the boat. One hose goes to the intake, where the temp sender was threaded in on the port side. I put in a nipple, T, and street elbow on top of the T with hose barb threaded into it. So, T is mounted vertically and water flows out the top to the hose, the temp sender threaded into the middle of the T. Other hose is cut into the raw water intake hose, directly below the engine where it feeds into the raw water pump. I couldn't push the Heatercraft Y-pipe into my old, hard PCM hose so I bought a pair of 1" hose barbs and a 1" T, cut a section out of the hose and put the T in, with the heater hose heading into the T. I had planned to reduce to 1/4" into the T, and put a small valve in to control flow, but didn't have room and just connected the hose barb directly to the T so there's no on-purpose flow restriction like you'd have with the Y. I thought that might cause problems, but seems to work very well. There is definitely a noticeable difference at idle, but still warm. Hope that made sense. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-16-2014 at 1:50am
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The factory install is just a T on the suction side hose in my brothers 99 Air GT40. Can't comment on the heat performance but that is also how I plan on plumbing mine. ------------- |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: October-16-2014 at 8:59am
| Mine had the factory "T" in the suction but I replaced it with the wye fitting and get better heat at idle. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: October-16-2014 at 9:25am
Cool that you got it installed and working. One question though, isn't the OEM thermostat for a GT-40, the 160 degree? |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: October-16-2014 at 12:07pm
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Well I assume it's 143, I've not replaced it since I've had the boat. Not sure which was stock, but my understanding is a 143 stat will run 160 on the gauge, which is what mine does, and a 160 stat runs closer to 180 on the gauge. If I'm wrong about that I'd be curious to hear more. Also, thinking about this more, I think the plumbing the way I have it, without the small hole in the Y restricting flow, will tend to not let the engine warm up to temp as quickly unless under load. I'm pulling hot engine water from the manifold and returning it to the raw water side. So, even if the stat is closed I'm still robbing hot water from the engine side of the stat and instead of it returning to the engine, it can flow out the other side of a closed stat in the raw water loop. I'm not saying this plumbing is wrong, just might explain the different temps I'm seeing on the gauge. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: October-16-2014 at 12:49pm
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Perhaps this helps. I removed the pipe plug on the circ pump, put a street elbow on there, then a hose barb fitting on the street elbow. THink i had to massage the street elbow on the grinder. The heater returns to the intake. In the end, much like the auto/truck configuration. This hold heat at extened idle very well, since the hot water returns to the engine, and is not pushed out the exhaust, replaced by cold water. I believe the 143 is for brackish water, when no closed cooling is used. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: October-16-2014 at 12:54pm
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I thought the 143 was for carbureted engines, and the 160 for fuel injected. Not sure what the logic is on that, but that's how Nautiqueparts and Skidim list the thermostats. |