2001 GT40 - Remove RWP when winterising?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28179
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 3:39pm
Topic: 2001 GT40 - Remove RWP when winterising?
Posted By: 2001SAN
Subject: 2001 GT40 - Remove RWP when winterising?
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 8:20am
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Hi all, Depression begins - winterising time here in Ireland! A couple of quick questions: 1) After draining the engine, manis, trans cooler etc - is blowing through with compressed air is a good idea - esp if not filling with AF? 2) Do I need to remove the RWP? Never did on my old boat (3.0ltr merc). If so is it easy to remove? The impeller was replaced this summer along with the block (poor winterising from the previous owner). The boat is 60 miles away so I just want to be ready for this weekend when I lay it up. Thanks in advance, Darren. ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 9:52am
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Leave the RWP in place. Compressed air is not needed - draining will do it. In fact, I doubt blowing air through the water jacket will remove any more water than just draining. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 10:22am
| the impellar,when left dry,can can form bending on the fins..Not critical,that is why some remove it- If Af is used instead of draining,then it will be in liquid. |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 10:34am
| If you have raw water strainer--Do not forget to empty that-- Many do-Place some dryer sheets in the baot along with moth balls,,Mice can destroy seats...seen that happen more than once----Linda. |
Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 11:36am
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cool. leaving it in makes my job easier and i will empty the strainer. do you all fill with AF? i did sometimes on my old boat - but not always. darren. ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 11:41am
| 2001 san----- I just empty it.. I do not drain water, out- I run Af through the whole engine until I see it come out of exhaust..I run 5 gallons through-- ......My uncle has a 38 ft carver twin ,he runs af through that and all has been good... |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 11:45am
| I disconnect after the strainer,suck the Af from there with a 6 gallon bucket,,I made a extension hose fitting so, I can reach the bottom of the bucket,, Then-- I empty the water form the strainer,,I like to spray the engine down w/a protective spray- like 10w 40 -cr-56 a barrier from mosisture... |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 11:53am
Oh boy. Here we go. ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
eljayrx wrote:Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 12:01pm
| 75--What you talking about? U not like my system? So, how was your weekend?lol--Linda |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 12:27pm
There are a few different ways to get antifreeze into the engine (some much more complicated and hokier than others), but none can be guaranteed to provide an ounce of freeze protection if the water is not drained out first. To suggest otherwise would imply a gross misunderstanding of how the cooling system works. Long story short: If you havent suffered freeze damage yet using your method, then youre very lucky! ------------- |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 12:33pm
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So our family has been lucky for say 30 plus years? so if-the exhaust is not the end of the line then what is??,,,,, TR? |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 12:35pm
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Linda, I am fine with your method and did it that way myself for many years, well maybe not quite, I think I drained first. But anyway, your first winter here, you didn't realize that this discussion comes up every year and there are those that say, don't drain, just pump through. Then there is a very large and vocal group that says that is bad, that without draining there is residual water in the block that remains there, even when pumping through AF, that can freeze and bust a block. There is one member that provides an accound of a cracked block using that method. But then there are a number of members that report "well I've done it that way for years and its always been ok". So my comment was just implying that you may have started that discussion up again, which is always good for getting a comfy chair and a bag of popcorn and watching. "my weekend was great, thanks for asking" (still skiing comfortably down here....which has been a pleasant change this year, having just moved from 22 years in NY and then MA) Where in NY are you? EDIT: Tim posted while I was typing....  ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 12:43pm
| LOL--75-I hear ya.... |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 12:58pm
Lucky? Yes. In most simple cooling systems, there are 2 basic paths fluid takes through the motor. They are: 1. RWP-->thermostat housing-->circ pump-->block-->heads-->intake-->thermostat housing-->exhaust manifolds-->out the back of the boat 2. RWP-->thermostat housing-->exhaust manifolds-->out the back of the boat The thermostat controls the flow out of the engine. If the thermostat is open, water will follow path #1. If the thermostat is closed, fluid will follow path #2. Unless you remove the thermostat or intrinsicly know it was open (no idea how you would do this), if you do not drain the block, you have no way to determine which path the antifreeze took. It is entirely possible that it took path #2, and the block remains 100% full of water. Its also possible that its full of antifreeze, or a water/antifreeze mix of anywhere between 0% and 100%. If you are using marine/RV antifreeze, you know that it is not meant to be diluted, so anything less than 100% antifreeze offers diminished freeze protection. So, like I said, without draining first, you can have no guarantee as to what % of antifreeze is in your motor, nor if it is sufficient to prevent a freeze. That is not the type of gamble I take with my boats, as draining takes about 3 minutes... but YMMV. ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 1:13pm
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This whole conversation is a moot point if you use some of that good old -100 antifreeze ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: hotboat
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 1:27pm
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If you do not drain, after you run your 5 gal of antifreeze pull the block plugs and check color, better yet capture in container and test. As Tim stated it will be somewhere between straight water and a mixture depending on thermostat ------------- Brian |
Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 3:42pm
didn't mean to start one of these! i will be draining - no question either way. just not sure about filling with AF yet. some years i do, some i don't. the times when i don't fill i pour AF through until it runs out the plugs or hoses, then put it all back together. 3 gallons of AF costs about £50 (about $80) and i know loads who just drain and leave it at that. this will be my first year winterising my super air - all my experiences are from my previous boat. thoughts? ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 3:50pm
| I loosen my belts during off season and I detach all hoses to make sure water is not sitting anywhere. When I do that I hand rotate the RWP to get any water left in the housing out. Spring Means new Impeller for me this year. Gets about 180 at idle after a long WOT run. Thats my indicator. |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 4:01pm
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don't forget the two drain plugs on the V-drive. i always pour in AF...only need 2 gallons vs. 6 for the run through method...and pouring in is easy... ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: hotboat
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 4:07pm
What kind of vdrive? Not being smart, had a Walters and only ever pulled the hose. Wasn't aware of any plugs ------------- Brian |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 5:20pm
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'01 should be a walters...should have 2 square head plugs near the top of the unit on opposite sides. ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 5:23pm
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Just draining alone is fine if that's what suits your fancy. I've seen boats done each way for decades and they are fine either way. ------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 7:06pm
| Thanks Trbenj. for your time-Your points are well taken. I have PCM marine,351 windsor,1986...from my research they clam that it is a full circulation bypass system.permitting a full flow of water through the system,even during warm ups.Impeller,keeps the system full.Does this change anything? Key words{throgh the enire engine} as per the manual. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 7:15pm
No, the PCM Ford cooling system is amongst the most basic and my points above were most applicable to it. Its a great system- very easy to troubleshoot and runs very consistently. Its also very easy to maintain- surely your research has turned up the engine manual that describes the proper winterization process (ie, drain and fill)?  ------------- |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 7:22pm
TrBenj----  I guess,,,Question is doe not the impellar creat a full flow through the entire engine-- block ;too? Ty again--I have no problem with your system,,u seem to like to help-and that makes this site worth its salt-- ...
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 7:26pm
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The path to fill the block (in the thermostat housing) is always open... and this is why the block can be filled even when the thermostat is closed. However, if the block is already full, and the thermostat is closed, the fluid in the block has nowhere to go, so no new fluid being introduced via the thermostat housing can enter. Instead, it gets dumped out the exhaust. The fluid in the block remains static until the engine is up to temp, at which point the thermostat opens and allows it to exit (intake-->stat housing-->exhaust-->out the back of the boat), and the engine again fills with cool new water supplied to the stat housing (from the RWP). If water was constantly circulating through the block, then the thermostat would serve no purpose and the engine would never come up to temp. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 8:35pm
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Drain and put the anti in. Linda, I agree with Tim that you have been very lucky. Have you ever bothered checking the freeze protection wit a refractometer? Even then, the sample point may be fine but you may have a pocket without decent protection. I've got 15 years on your 30 and even put in time winterizing at a CC dealer. I NEVER RECOMMEND WINTERIZING WITHOUT DRAINING. Then I don't really care how you get the antifreeze in but pouring is simple. Why are you screwing around with pumping it through the engine??? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 10:44pm
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I seriously feel sorry for you folks that have to winterize your boats. Winterizing mine means remove the bimini, take the ice out of the cooler and put in warm water, put the drysuit and fleece and uggs in the skibag. ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: October-24-2012 at 11:52pm
| The Walters V drive cooling is just a few offset fins that the water flows around and it sits on the top of the unit. You should be able to get the water out by dissconecting the feed and return lines on the front of the motor and letting them drain. Easier than pulling the seat and floor of you aren't going to change the oil. If your going to do antifreeze be sure to put it in by the strainer so it will circulate through the v drive. |
Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: October-25-2012 at 4:57pm
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ok - thanks all. i think i'm good to go. say i don't fill with AF and there is a little water in the RWP. I could purge this by running the engine for a few seconds after draining? darren. ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-25-2012 at 5:06pm
| Just add some Af- take the hose off and dump== Keep the fins on the raw pump in Af over lay -up--Linda! |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-25-2012 at 5:09pm
| that 0r open the nut under the elbow----Linda-- or dump AF//Best to keep the fins wet..u boys like it wet right?lol--Linda! |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-25-2012 at 5:39pm
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What is with your random use of characters? You would only need to bump the engine once to get the rwp spun around and emptied. ------------- |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-25-2012 at 5:42pm
| Who are you speaking to holly? |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-25-2012 at 5:43pm
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The poster using all the dashes and equal signs. ------------- |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-25-2012 at 5:46pm
| LOl- just me being me-lol---just having a real hard time posting any pics..{ dots this tim}LOL |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: October-25-2012 at 5:50pm
LMAO Good one Gary. |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-25-2012 at 5:55pm
| So 50/50 is half funny-?LOL! boys will be boys--Linda! |
Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: October-25-2012 at 6:32pm
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ok. bump once to drain rwp. cool. thanks again fellas - and lady! darren. ------------- A little knowledge is a dangerous thing... 2001 Super Air Nautique 1989 Fairline Corniche 31 www.bannrivercruises.co.uk |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-25-2012 at 10:00pm
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: east tx skier
Date Posted: November-15-2012 at 3:38pm
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A little late on this response, but if you are going to "drain only" and not add antifreeze, I'd suggest, after draining, you (1) pull the safety lanyard and crank for a couple of seconds. Like you suggested, this will get some of the excess water out of the pump housing. However, given the orientation of the pump on the PCM engines, I don't see nearly as much water expelled as I did on my old Indmar. Probably not necessary, but old habits die hard. (2) tow your boat around for about 5--10 minutes, over some small hills if available. If there is any water in the nooks and crannies of the cooling system, this can get it to drain. Don't believe me, leave your bilge plug in and see how much gets collected. (3) leave your plugs out until spring. I did this method with no problems at all. The only reason I use antifreeze on my Correct Craft is because (1) it's so easy to pour it in and (2) for whatever corrosion protection it might offer. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2383&sort=&pagenum=7&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1998 Ski Nautique (Red & Silver Cloud); GT-40; Perfect Pass Stargazer; Acme 422. |