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How do i winterize?

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28301
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 3:44pm


Topic: How do i winterize?
Posted By: Seby
Subject: How do i winterize?
Date Posted: November-08-2012 at 7:40pm
Last month i purchased a 1987 Riviera. I had it out a few times, but next week we are expecting the temperatures to drop. So, i need to winterize the boat...problem is, i am a novice and do not know what to do.

I read few posts and have an idea what i need to do. But i was wondering if there was a manual or article with step by step instructions.

Thank you in advance for any info.

Seby



Replies:
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-08-2012 at 8:02pm
it gets below freezing in TX? How long will you be winterizing it for? If not long you can probably just drain the block.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-08-2012 at 8:54pm
Seby,
Welcome to CCfan. How about some pictures? What engine do you have in the Riv? 351? With that info, we could probably direct you to the engine manual in the sites reference section.

Yes, a drain only in you area may be appropriate. Some do get by with just adding some heat (trouble lamp) under the dog house. Keep in mind it takes quite some time of low temps to get to the engine. How long you want to do the layup will make a difference. Fill us in.

Also, get some pictures and text submitted for our diary section.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: Seby
Date Posted: November-08-2012 at 10:23pm
hi, thanks. Yes, it does get a little cold here from time to time. We get on average two days per winter where we actually have ice on the roads...usually over night and its all gone by noon the following day.

The wind also makes it colder and if not protected/removed garden hoses bust real easy.

So, with that said. I think draining the block would be a good idea...


the engine is Ford PCM 351 (I just uploaded the diary story - waiting on review)





Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: November-08-2012 at 11:28pm
Drain Block and Manifolds. There is also a drain on the J-Tube beside the raw water pump. I also disconnect the hose under the transcooler to make sure there is no water in the cooler. Also I take loose the hose under the raw water pump.

Warm Engine and spray fog down the carb and change the oil before lay up. Use Valvoline VR1 20-50 or 40 SAE Oil. Some use Shell Rotella. You need a oil with zinc for the flat tappet cam. No Fram Oil Filter. Use Motorcraft, Wix , PCM, or Napa. Just trust me on the Fram deal.

There is a lot of info on this if you use the search function.

Welcome to the site.

Donald


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-09-2012 at 10:50am
Also, don't forget to drain the intake strainer - it won't self drain.

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: tullfooter
Date Posted: November-09-2012 at 11:06am
IMHO, I would be investing in a light bulb, or spending the big money on an engine compartment heater. It seems like doing a full winterizing is overkill in Texas. How long do you expect to not be using the boat?

BTW, you are near Austin. They had the Dam to Dam barefoot race last weekend. Ever heard of it/been there?

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Play hard, life's not a trial run.
'85 BFN
'90 BFN



White Lake, Michigan



Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: November-09-2012 at 11:44am
I also remove the hose above the raw water pump and loosen the belts for storage. Once I have both hoses off the RWP, I spin it by hand to get any water out. It usually lets out enough to be glad you've done it.


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-09-2012 at 12:08pm
I see no reason to fog the engine, thats just not necessary unless you are going to let it sit for several months. The exhaust manifold plugs are on the back between the exhaust hose and a 1/2 drive ratchet with no socket will plug right in. The block drain plugs are by cylinders 1 and 8 and are a few inches higher than the mating surface for the oil pan.

The drain plug for the J is between the thermostat housing and the water pump on the bottom of it and the strainer is the clear thing in the back right next to the transmission. Consult the manual in the reference section for more detail.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-09-2012 at 9:10pm
Originally posted by Jllogan Jllogan wrote:

I see no reason to fog the engine, thats just not necessary unless you are going to let it sit for several months.

I agree.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: November-09-2012 at 10:45pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Also, don't forget to drain the intake strainer - it won't self drain.


It will if you put it on upside down!   

Had to do that in the Tique because of space considerations..... Made things very convenient for removing the bowl and self-draining....

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https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206
http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot
78 SkiTiq


Posted By: Seby
Date Posted: November-20-2012 at 1:36pm
Thank you All for all the info...

I drained the manifolds and found a storage shed where the temps do not drop below freeze. just for this winter. just in case.

next winter i will do it the right way. thanks to you guys.

thank you again.



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