Help!
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Off Topic
Forum Discription: Anything non-Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28419
Printed Date: January-13-2025 at 11:51am
Topic: Help!
Posted By: Guests
Subject: Help!
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 2:21pm
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Would anyone have a exploded view of the dual by pass system {cooling} or can one tell me just how much water is let in the engine block prior to the thermostat, fully opening? thanks ... |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 2:37pm
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Linda, I'm confused to what you are actually asking. The RWP always pumps the same volume. What the engine doesn't need via the T stat, the excess water goes out to via the exhaust. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 2:42pm
They claim there are small openings? That allow this? |
8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 7:56pm
| Not sure whether this answers your question exactly or not, but, I drained my block and manifolds (PCM), and drained it into a bucket. It filled about half of a 5 gallon bucket. Hope this helps some. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 8:13pm
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5 gallons at 3000 RPM for every 15 seconds is the norm. If the T stat does not open, there is NO water flow into the block. The "dual by pass" you are referencing is what I mentioned about water being diverted to the exhaust manifolds even when the engine doesn't need it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 9:46pm
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 9:50pm
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8122pbrainard-----See the above info from PCm-- Sounds like there is a certain amount of water that gets to the block, even before the thermo opens? ...Am I reading this right? Thanks again for all your help |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 9:51pm
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This is the same reason you don't have to warm up your engine in order to get anti freeze in the block when winterizing. Hollywood has posted a photo of a thermostat housing recently showing the bypass. Other than that I have no idea what you are asking. ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 9:53pm
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 9:57pm
Linda, I as well as Alan are obviously confused to your question??? What are you really concerned about? "not according to some in the forum"? Tell us more!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 10:03pm
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 10:05pm
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 10:14pm
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Linda, You are being mislead by others who feel the T stat must be warm/open to allow the anti freeze to enter the block. This is a misunderstanding. A engine block has a in and a out. The T stat controls the out. When you pour in the the antifreeze it will go into the block via the low porting on the block. I'm sorry to hear that you via searching the site found some idiots that do not know what they are talking about!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 10:29pm
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Sounds like she did a suck up method without draining first, possibly without the engine up to operating temperature. ------------- |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 10:29pm
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Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 10:33pm
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15484&KW=stat&PN=1&title=winterizing-your-nautique" rel="nofollow - a little ways down page two. ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 10:38pm
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No, antifreeze will not get into the block if the engine was not drained first. (and engine not hot). So you need to know if the person doing the winterizing drained both block plugs before sucking the antifreeze. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 10:44pm
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Full circulation if water doesn't mean it's all from the RWP. ------------- |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 11:09pm
ty..... |
Posted By: 65 'cuda
Date Posted: November-25-2012 at 11:49pm
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Think about it this way, the thermostat is the EXIT from the block, the circulating water pump will circulate the water in the block until it warms to the temperature the thermostat will open, then the pressure drop described above will allow the raw water pump to replace that water with cool water from the lake, the presure balance occurs in the thermostat housing. ------------- Gary http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=941" rel="nofollow - 1965 Barracuda SS |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 10:36am
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 10:40am
| 8122pbrainard---------------- hoping that some made it.. for now-- temps dropped big time... If some made it then I'm hoping I have bought some-time............................! |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 10:54am
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If the block was drained prior to sucking in the antifreeze it got in, if the block was not drained it probably didn't at least not as much as you want in it. Pull a drain plug see if you get antifreeze or water. |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 11:05am
How about taking the thermo out and doing the suck up method? about 6 gallons.. Would this be ok? If i did get some for now then , i'm hoping time was bought..ty GUN! |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 11:07am
| You got to remove the drain plugs. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 1:04pm
 ------------- |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 1:23pm
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Those are excellent graphics to help clear it up HW. One question though. Even tho we are supposed to drain then pour, not suck it up, there are many that suck it up (with or without draining) If you go the suck it route (not that bad, if you drain first, right?) and the engine is cold (i.e. t-stat not open) Why does it not happen like your "cold" picture vs your "pour/suck up" picture. I believe I have heard people say the t-stat does not have to be open to successfully suck up AF, (because the t-stat controls flow out, not in) so what determins if the AF goes to the manifolds (Your "cold" picture) vs going into the block (your "pour/suck" picture)? ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 1:40pm
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Sucking up is usually a bit more cumbersome than pouring in (especially on a direct drive), but theyre both effective. Of course, you MUST drain first. The difference between the cold vs. the pour/suck diagram is the presence of water in the block (cold) vs. empty (pour/suck). Fluid will not enter the block if its already full and has nowhere to go. Its going to follow the path of least resistance... which would be out the manifolds. If everything is empty, the port in the PCM t'stat housing that feeds the block is lower than the exit to the manifolds- so gravity ensures it will fill first. Not all thermostat housings are created equal though... so if trying to fill a non-PCM, the safe bet is to pour in through the large circ pump hose. ------------- |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 1:47pm
| So, if the problem is that the block wasn't drained and the drain plugs cannot be removed and it is going to get really cold before the boat can be fixed properly, I would punch holes in the freeze plugs and let everything drain and then pour 5 gallons of anti freeze through it and let it all drain out and fix it right come spring. Better than worrying all winter. This is a last resort hobbiest move that I've done in an emergency. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 9:19pm
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Good Luck Linda - Hope it is OK. This is the type of information that we can straighten out. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 9:52pm
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Linda, There are lots of opinions out there about the best method of winterizing but, if you look in the PCM manual (reference section) it will show the layup method I always suggest. That's drain and pour! It's simple and the key is to drain first. Draining first ensures all the water is out of the block and you will not end up with pockets of diluted antifreeze. BTW, some still use the drain only method and that was all we used back in the late 60's when I was working at Watercraft Sales. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 10:06pm
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THANK ALL OF YOU for your time in helping me with this QUESTION! I have it down now---.................. THANKS >>>>>>>so much..! Linda! 
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Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: November-27-2012 at 12:41am
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Linda no avatar, got some boat photos? I'm a lifetime Keuka Lake (Finger Lakes) boater, what NY lake you on? ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November-27-2012 at 1:12am
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Posted By: JMurph
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 10:13am
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So I went down to the lake yesterday to rewinterize the boat, because I forgot to drain the block before I sucked the antifreeze in. I thought folks would be interested to know that when I drained the block, there was NO antifreeze. The water was as clear as could be. The moral of the story is, if you did not drain first, you need to go back and rewinterize. Thanks for the diagram Hollywood. |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 10:44am
There was anti freeze in the block,, Could see reddish color! How much , Who knows! I did the suck system as you boys like to say! Now- maybe it was hot enough to open the thermo? or my thermo is stuck to open? or maybe there is no thermo in it? All i know is that 6 gallons of sucking, somehow some-way made it to the block,, AGAIN! How much who knows! I had it drained... and poured it in. off the RWP hose. above the thermo raised too. as said by many on her.. Hollywood said, this method will get the anti in... and it did! |