V-Drive Cooling
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28465
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 1:33pm
Topic: V-Drive Cooling
Posted By: echo
Subject: V-Drive Cooling
Date Posted: November-30-2012 at 6:23pm
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98 Super Sport - PCM GT40 - PCM 1:1 - Walters V-Drive - FWC Is it possible to route the cooling lines to/from the v-drive into a FWC system? |
Replies:
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: November-30-2012 at 7:01pm
| I'm sure it's possible, can't think about how exactly it would go off the top of my head though. I would look for a manual about the mid 2000's ZR6 and how things are routed. That motor is fresh water cooled and CC used the Walters at least up to the 226. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-30-2012 at 9:16pm
Yes, I agree it sure is possible but you will need to do some investigating first. First, I'd contact Walters to see if they have any BTU figures. Then, what the BTU load of the engine is. Then, you will need to know what the BYU capacity of the tube/bundle heat exchanger is. The delta T between what the raw water temp is and what the desired cooled water temp needed will come to play. You may need a larger heat exchanger but, I'd safely say the V drive extra will be pretty low but, check it out before you run into a problem. You are running in some pretty warm water!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
echo wrote:Posted By: echo
Date Posted: November-30-2012 at 10:07pm
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How about circulation? Based on what I've found... "The t'stat and housing have a unique construction in that when the engine is cold and the t'stat is "closed", it allows full recirculation through the engine loop but little or no coolant passes through the H/E loop." "As the engine warms up, and the t'stat "opens", it starts to close off the engine recirc loop and shunts coolant through the H/E loop. The hotter the engine gets, less is recirculated in the engine recirc loop and more goes through the H/E - varies with load and engine temp. When the t'stat is fully "open", almost all the coolant runs through the H/E loop and little or no coolant runs through the engine recirc loop." If the H/E could handle the extra capacity, where could I tap into the lines to get proper coolant flow? I know this isn't an issue for many, but there really isn't a lot of information about closed cooling on GT-40s. I would be happy to document the process and post some pictures. |
Posted By: Lakeview
Date Posted: December-01-2012 at 8:11pm
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Sounds like a call to the tech dept at PCM would be the best resource. ------------- Lakeview 1992 Barefoot Nautique 1967 Barracuda SS 1967 Chris Craft Cavalier |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 12:57pm
| I Helped winterize a friends Tige yesterday that had a Marine Power 6 liter engine which I believe is the same base motor as the ZR409. Anyway the way it was cooled is the hull intake ran through the Vdrive and then on to the raw water pump then to the heat exchanger. I wouldn't be real comfortable trying to figure out how to cool the Vdrive with T fittings after seeing it. There is a reason why the Vdrive is cooled with the coolest water availabe and I don't know what that is. There is also a reason why they didn't think it was necessary to include it in the fresh water loop and I don't know that either. My guess is either the Vdrive needs water cooler than what is circulating through the motor, or they aren't worried about what the salt water will do to it. |
Posted By: echo
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 10:12pm
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TX - I went and looked at the ZR engine and found the same thing. Even the full system on the ZR409 doesn't have the V-drive in the h/e loop. I was reading the Walter's forum and they recommend cleaning the cooling lines once a year. If properly cared for, the cooling lines should last 20-30 years until they corrode through. As for temp., I believe the recommended running temp is similar to the engine. Not sure how hot they get under load in a power boat, but some of the sailboat owners do not run water through their v-drive at all. (not recommended) I installed the closed cooling system this weekend and it was a very tight fit. I will not be trying to add the v-drive! Went out this evening and it worked great. We will see how it does in 80 degree water in the Summer. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 12:51am
| Sounds like you found the same things I did on the google search, sailboats. Who knows why they do it that way?, Walters are a bunch of JackA$$''s to deal with from what I've seen and I sure wouldn't rule out they did it for continued sales down the road. If you're just putting it in salt water for the first time then I would think you've got plenty of service left before it needs replacing. I would put a Perko flush on so that it will flush the Vdrive and call it as good as it can be. |