Classic Nautiques
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28509
Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 1:53pm
Topic: Classic Nautiques
Posted By: 4mor
Subject: Classic Nautiques
Date Posted: December-07-2012 at 9:04pm
| I own a 1966 Ski Nautique with the Chrysler 318 c.i engine, 210 hp. hull number 1405. Does anyone else own a Nautique, say 1966thru 1970 with the Chrysler engine? Or, if you replaced this engine with another, did you keep the Chrysler somewhere and is it for sale? |
Replies:
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: December-07-2012 at 9:37pm
|
Bill, Cant help you on the 60's SN's myself, but I own a few other "early" Correct Crafts and most here prefer trying to keep our boats pretty much stock. Is there something wrong with the 318? Is it a Poly? What condition is the boat in? What would your engine re-power be if not back to stock? Post some pics and fill us in on the old girl!! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-07-2012 at 10:00pm
|
Bill, Welcome to CCfan. You have found the absolute best site for helping you with 66 SN. Yes, pictures are real important for all of our members to help. You can utilize the sight search feature to get a better idea of what others have done - there are several threads on your hull/engine. Yes, keep it original. It will pay back in the long run. As a ACBS member/judge, I will tell you a repower is NOT a good option. Rebuild the old. Make sure you get some pictures and text submitted for the diary section. A 66 is a classic and it should be in that section. Do some site exploring - There's lots of info available. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-07-2012 at 10:35pm
|
Welcome Bill. I have to ask,whats wrong with yours? Jake in Florida is parting out a 66 Cuda with a 318 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28421&title=parting-66-barracuda-ss" rel="nofollow - here . trouble is thats pretty far away but how often do they come up? If it's just a block problem will an automotive block work? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 4mor
Date Posted: December-07-2012 at 11:42pm
|
Gary S. In 2010, I found that the engine oil had water in it. It had not run that way very long, maybe 2 or 3 hours as I check the oil before every outing. To make a long story short, I had the engine repaired and it ran good for the 2011 and 2012 waterski season. At the end of the 2012 season (Nov 7th) I took an oil sample to Empire Equipment for an analysis. The report said that the oil had excessively high chrome, iron, and lead. Meaning to me that something is not receiving enough lubrication and is breaking down. Right now, I am thinking of having the engine pulled by US Engines in Kent,Wn or S& J Engines in Spokane,Wn sometime in the early Spring. Although it had good power, the oil analysis was not good. I would rather have the engine teardown accomplished than run it until something very serious happens. The date on the block is 6/12/65. It is way different than a car 318. It has a cast iron pan (8qt) and timing chain cover. It uses solid lifters and solid intake and exhaust valves. Engine serial number is 92887, model number M318BWR-10. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-08-2012 at 1:48am
|
Why don't you get a 2nd opinion? It would be easier than have it pulled apart again. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: December-08-2012 at 4:04am
| 4mor, I have used a machine shop in federal way called honest performance . I really liked their service and small business feel. If you want more details, shoot me a pm.... We can't be that far apart.... |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-08-2012 at 11:45am
Bill, The marine engine starts with a automotive block. All the marinizing are bolt on's. Yes, later 318's went to hydraulic lifters but back in the mid 60's, I can say even the automotives had solids. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
4mor wrote:Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: December-08-2012 at 12:33pm
| She's a poly! Maybe its simply worn out is there an hour meter? It's an old girl and has probably provided many many hours of operation to that boat. |
Posted By: 65Cuda
Date Posted: December-08-2012 at 2:45pm
I have a 65 Barracuda with a 318 poly. A short time ago I was in desperate need of some manifolds and ended up finding a semi-complete 318 (missing alternator and water pump). I am in NC, so it's probably too far for you...anyway, thought I would bring it up.
|
Posted By: 4mor
Date Posted: December-08-2012 at 6:50pm
| A second opinion on the oil sample used by Empire Equipment is no longer available. The engine oil has all been pulled and discarded. The boat and engine has been winterized and is in dry storage, Thanks, Keep in touch. |
Posted By: 4mor
Date Posted: December-08-2012 at 6:55pm
| Thanks. That's my engine only mine is in much better condition Don't throw it away! Who knows when there may be something that could be used. I will try to post some pictures of the boat and engine soon. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-08-2012 at 8:56pm
|
Bill, What oil are you using? There are plenty of threads regarding oil but you need plenty of ZDDP for the old flat tappet engines. I happen to like Valvoine VR1 20-50. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 65Cuda
Date Posted: December-08-2012 at 9:10pm
| just let me know if you need it...I have what I need off it, the next step was going to rebuild and hang on to it. But if someone out there needs it, I have it. |
Posted By: 4mor
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 1:05am
| that's great. Even looks like the same carburetor; a AFB3213S. Is that a Jabsco dual impeller pump on it? |
Posted By: hein
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 7:31am
 ------------- A bad day skiing is better than a good day at work. |
Posted By: hein
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 7:37am
|
The above pic is of my installation,same vintage,however locally built in South Africa.It was pulled of a late 60s Nautique mould,see pics on a previous post.The installation is a Chrysler 383,ran beautifully.unfortunately it seized up,and Im now in the process of replacing it with a 390 Ford.I had a 318 in a previous boat,was very happy with it.My advice would also be to rather fix what you have than repower.Think about different bellhousing,starter,manifolds,plumbing and mounts,trust me,it goes with a lot of head scratching. ------------- A bad day skiing is better than a good day at work. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 1:51pm
|
No where does it say he wants to change the make or size of his engine,he was just asking that if someone took out a 318 he would be interested in it. To the rest of us not knowing the history of the engine,he states the water problem was repaired,no mention of a rebuild. An oil analysis now tells him he has abnormal wear,no indication of the number of hours on it. If it was rebuilt recently I'd be concerned and would get a second opinion,if not maybe it's just time.Getting another motor would to me be counter productive too,the one you have is repairable,original? to the boat.To buy another would put you right where you are now,alot of unknowns. One thing Bill is to do your homework on those engine guy's, get some references.Your talking of doing this in the spring at a time when a good shop would be up to their necks in work,be careful. I called the shop that Alan and I used for machine work last May about doing the machine work on a tractor engine. He told me straight out,could not get to it until fall.Caveat emptor ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 4mor
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 4:33pm
| After the engine was put back together in the Winter of 2010 (the heads had been pulled, the left was found to have a crack in it so other heads were found and rebuilt and reinstalled) the only oil that has been used since then is Valvoline 10W-30 synthetic blend. What do you think ? What is ZDDP? |
Posted By: 4mor
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 4:39pm
| Thanks to all for the continued dialog. The engine hour meter reads 409. Except for the last two seasons, the engine oil used was Quaker State HD 30. After that, I used Valvoline 10W-30 synthetic. By the way, what is a "poly" engine? |
Posted By: 65Cuda
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 5:09pm
|
Check out the forum yhread with the topic looking for 1965 Chrysler exhaust manifold elbow This one has a discussion on the poly engine |
Posted By: 65Cuda
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 5:14pm
|
Link to the discussion... correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28278&KW=manifold&PID=363764&title=looking-for-1965-chrysler-exhaust-manifold-elbow#363764 |
Posted By: cphase
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 7:40pm
|
http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28278&KW=manifold&PID=363764&title=looking-for-1965-chrysler-exhaust-manifold-elbow#363764" rel="nofollow - Proper Link ------------- Thanks, Jeff http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6549" rel="nofollow - 82 SN http://www.archlinux.org" rel="nofollow - Arch Linux |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 8:06pm
Your using a oil without enough ZZDP is most likely the cause of the high metallic readings from the oil analysis. You are chewing up your cam and lifters. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Tonali_III
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 8:08pm
|
Welcome, Bill. CCF is the best site that I have found for anything CC. As for your 318, I concur with others: rebuild what you have. You should be able to find a reputable machine shop that will help keep your 318 intact. Is it a right hand rotation? (standard for marine use) If so, you might try having Lunati in Memphis, TN helping you with a cam grind. They are familiar with Chrysler Marine engines. Also check out Hurrikain Marine (www.hurrikain.com). Dave Kain is my go to guy for Chrysler inboards. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=553&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1974 Southwind 20 <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6752" rel="nofollow">1972 Mustan |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 9:05pm
+1 and I'd bet having the heads redone did not help either ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 4mor
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 12:52am
| Thanks for the info. When looking at the front of the engine as it is running the belt is turning counter clock wise. I've been told that this is "reverse" rotation. |
Posted By: 4mor
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 1:01am
| I bought the SN new at the factory in Orlando,FL in the Fall of 1965 as a model year 1966. The engine has 409 hours on it. I have kept everything as it was sold to me except for the carpeting. The original floor covering was a black and white speckle rubber mat. It got very hot in the summer sun however, it is still in the boat giving added protection to the plywood flooring under the carpet now being used. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 2:15am
|
Bill, post some pictures of your boat for us, sounds like a beauty. Not too many around that can say they had it that long! After you read the wikipedia entry you'll say yep thats what happened- "The main use of ZDDP is in anti-wear additives to lubricants such as greases, gear oils, and motor oils, which often contain less than 1% of this additive. It has been reported that zinc and phosphorus emissions may damage catalytic converters and standard formulations of lubricating oils for gasoline engines now have reduced amounts of the additive, though diesel engine oils remain at higher levels.[3] Crankcase oils with reduced ZDDP have been cited as causing damage to, or failure of, classic/collector car flat tappet camshafts and lifters which undergo very high boundary layer pressures and/or shear forces at their contact faces, and in other regions such as big-end/main bearings, and piston rings and pins. Roller camshafts are more commonly used to reduce camshaft lobe friction in modern engines. There are additives, such as STP(R) Oil Treatment, and some racing oils such as Valvoline VR-1,[4] are available in the retail market with the necessary amount of ZDDP for engines using increased valve spring pressures. See "external links" in this article. The same ZDDP compounds serve also as corrosion inhibitors and antioxidants". Valvoline VR1 is what most use here,it's easy to get,and sometimes on sale at auto stores. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: turningpoint84
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 4:49pm
|
Gary/Peter or anyone, so just VR1 20-50 you guys suggest is the best for these older engines? I have yet to change the oil on my 1970 318( I didn't even put 15minutes on the engine yet), but I'm going to 1st thing this summer. So this should be the oil i get? ------------- Proud 1968 mustang owner and now http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6454&sort=&pagenum1" rel="nofollow - 1970 Mustang |
Posted By: Tonali_III
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 6:02pm
|
Rislone makes a product called Engine Oil Supplement. (P/N 4405 at your local O'Reilly's). It contains: •Rislone Engine Oil Supplement with Zinc Treatment is a petroleum oil performance supplement “booster” containing ZDDP (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) Zinc and Phosphorus EP (extreme pressure) additives to help protect internal engine components including pistons, flat tappet camshafts, lifters, pushrod tips and the valvetrain. •High performance formula stabilizes the motor oil to insure against viscosity and thermal breakdown. •Reduces friction & wear, especially at start-up, helping to eliminate dry starts. Less friction means less wear and a cooler running, longer lasting engine. •Clinging action keeps bearings and other internal engine parts lubricated where normal oil fails. •Enhances regular motor oil turning it into a high performance lubricant for use in older engines and racing applications. •Rislone works with all petroleum based motor oils including conventional, high mileage and synthetic formulas. If added to the motor oil of your choice, this supplement should do the trick. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=553&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1974 Southwind 20 <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6752" rel="nofollow">1972 Mustan |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 6:25pm
|
Tony, Be careful of additives that , simply, add to your oil. If you choose to gamble with your motor so be it, but your advice can be very costly for a newbie. Most of us older "gear heads" choose the VR-1 , or Shell Rotella T-1. Shell is available in 30w or 40w, while the VR-1 in multi grades. Again if you wish to trust Rislome, go for it, but to advise others, I would frown upon....Buy a high ZDDP oil , as stated above, and a premium filter Motorcraft FL 1 A for the Fords and leave the "snake oil" on the shelf....Billy ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Tonali_III
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 7:05pm
|
Thanks, Billy. I appreciate your advise on recommending products to "gearheads-in-training". I myself normally research a product for independent lab studies prior to using them. I use a Fram PH8A or their heavy duty version on my 440. Rislone is a name that has been in business since 1921 and has been used by famous "gearheads" such as Bobby Unser, Tommy Ivo, and Bill Reichert. Even Admiral Byrd used the products during his South pole expedition. Again, I understand your concern and I appreciate your advise. I prefer not to gamble, but a take carefully calcualted risk with my engine. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=553&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1974 Southwind 20 <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6752" rel="nofollow">1972 Mustan |
Posted By: Tonali_III
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 7:07pm
|
BTW, here is the link to Rislone's product: http://barsproducts.com/catalog/view/22-engine-oil-supplement-with-zinc-treatment-4401 We all can judge for ourselves. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=553&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1974 Southwind 20 <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6752" rel="nofollow">1972 Mustan |
Posted By: 4mor
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 8:12pm
| Yes, I love skiing behind my '66SN, that's why I'm willing to do what is necessary to keep running. Question. What is a "poly" engine? |
Posted By: Tonali_III
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 8:21pm
|
A "poly" engine has to do with the basic design of the Chrysler 318. While I am not an expert in this area, I believe the "poly" 318 was made before 1967 and has to do with the design of the block. When I was a kid, we used used to call them "big block 318's". I do know the "poly" engine has to do with the physical dimensions of the block. Copy and paste the link below to get the proper definition from MOPAR. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/a-engines.html ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=553&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1974 Southwind 20 <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6752" rel="nofollow">1972 Mustan |
Posted By: Silver15
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 9:23pm
|
Poly=Polyshperical similar to how Hemi=Hemispherical. It has to do with the contour of the head. I have the same engine and have seen the bottom of the heads.. they're a strange shape. (poly heads) ------------- 2000 Air/Sport 1978 T16 |
Posted By: 65Cuda
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 9:34pm
| also the reason when I found my extra engine, I had to buy it...parts are tough to find for a poly. I only pulled the manifolds off right now but hope to attempt to start it in the coming weeks. |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 9:38pm
|
[QUOTE=Tonali_III] Thanks, Billy. I appreciate your advise on recommending products to "gearheads-in-training". I myself normally research a product for independent lab studies prior to using them. I use a Fram PH8A or their heavy duty version on my 440. Hang around a while, you gotta lot of learnin' to do.....Billy If you do indeed research products before you use them, why would you use a Fram filter.They were at the bottom of the pile in research data..  ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Tonali_III
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 9:52pm
|
Fram ad "pay me now...or pay me later". I have had zero problems with a Fram in the 34+ years I have been operating gasoline internal combustion engines. And while I don't have quite the experiences that you have, my experiences has been...learning experiences as well. However, as my grandfather said, "The day a man that is through learning, is the day they better be burying him." Wise old guy he was. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=553&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1974 Southwind 20 <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6752" rel="nofollow">1972 Mustan |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 10:24pm
Is this the total content of your research on Fram filters ???? Or did they pay you for that endorsment ? I say again, hang around, you may teach us a new trick or two about these old boats. Most here have a low opinion on Fram, sorry to bash your research. As for your Grandfather, I have to agree. But: Youth is wasted on the young and Wisdom on the OLD ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 10:30pm
The design refers to the "head / valve/ spark plug location" The head design alone is the major factor here, not block size as you stateed above. Slang in the Old Days for the poly was "Semi-Hemi" and the Saw Tooth valve covers were too cool.... ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Tonali_III
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 10:30pm
|
Apology accepted and I am sure I will learn a thing or two as well. And to be completely honest, my dad always used Fram and we never had an oil related failure. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=553&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1974 Southwind 20 <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6752" rel="nofollow">1972 Mustan |
Posted By: Tonali_III
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 10:52pm
|
I just caught the video on Youtube that was made of the repairs to a kayak. Billy, I must say, you are a card. I truly enjoyed it. And I truly look forward to your words of wisdom. I like the part about "flame-able" and "in-flame-able". That was sweet. And you're right. It doesn't make any sense. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=553&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1974 Southwind 20 <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6752" rel="nofollow">1972 Mustan |
Posted By: Tonali_III
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 10:56pm
|
The 312 you built and shipped to the UK sounds FAB-U-LOUS!! My aunt's neighbor had a Thundercraft with a 312 in and a jet drive. That sound brings back memories. Are you near Nawlins? (A friend of mine said that's how New Orleans is supposed to be spelled.) ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=553&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1974 Southwind 20 <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6752" rel="nofollow">1972 Mustan |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 12:09am
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For what it's worth, I've got a Chrysler 360 in my 1975 Century; never been rebuilt and still runs great. Go Mopar. ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: Tonali_III
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 12:15am
|
GO MOPAR!!! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=553&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1974 Southwind 20 <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6752" rel="nofollow">1972 Mustan |
Posted By: 4mor
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 1:54am
| Wow! Sounds like a wonderful boat. I will do all I can to keep the original 318 in the boat. A lot of members are telling me that keeping the boat original is the best way to hold its value. I am still exploring my options with the hot oil sample taken on Nov. 6,2012 showing excessive chrome, iron, and lead. So, something is wearing out faster than it should and I need to find out what before I ruin the engine. |
Posted By: 65Cuda
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 5:32pm
| let me know if you are in the market for a parts engine. |
Posted By: 4mor
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 8:09pm
| I will. Thanks |
Posted By: 65Cuda
Date Posted: December-21-2012 at 6:16pm
| still tinkering with the idea on just sending the extra engine out to get rebuilt and then selling (318-Poly)...not sure if there is any interest out there for it. |
Posted By: 4mor
Date Posted: December-23-2012 at 10:46am
|
I would love to have your extra 318 poly, but right now, I don't know where I could keep it. I know that my engine need to come out of the boat for a close inspection to see why my last oil sample analysis had the high iron, chrome and lead readings. Something is not getting the lubrication that it needs and, so, the inspection before I ruin it. Not sure if I will pull the engine here (Peoria, Az.) and ship it to repair shops that are knowledgeable about the ploys or take the boat and engine to them. One of the shops is U.S. Engines in Kent, Wn. the other is S & J Engines in Spokane, Wn. Not looking forward to a trip to either place, especially this time of the year so, most likely, if I make the trip, it would be more like the middle of April. Also, and maybe you can help me...I not sure if my poly is a reverse rotation engine. Looking at the front of the engine when running, it turns counter-clockwise. Is that reverse rotation? Anyway, lets stay in touch and maybe we can solve both our problems. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-23-2012 at 10:52am
Yes ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-23-2012 at 11:08am
I'm not understanding why you have to travel so far for engine work. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 65 'cuda
Date Posted: December-23-2012 at 12:57pm
|
My 318 poly has a "few thousand hours" on it! Quote from the original owner. Still runs well! ------------- Gary http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=941" rel="nofollow - 1965 Barracuda SS |
Posted By: 4mor
Date Posted: December-23-2012 at 4:26pm
| I found both engine repair shops on-line under "Chrysler 318 marine engines" and I have talked to both on the phone. Both are very capable engine rebuild shops familiar with the "poly" engine which is clearly different than post 1976 engines. I am open to other suggestions. I am looking for the best, most capable shop familiar with the requirements of marine engines. |
Posted By: 4mor
Date Posted: December-23-2012 at 4:31pm
| A few thousand hours? What kind of a boat was it in? Do you know which make of water pump it is using...a Sherwood or Jabsco? |
Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: December-23-2012 at 7:11pm
|
i would trust any local engine rebuild shop . most of those guys that have been in business have worked on everything ever made. guys . how come going to street rod events , cruise nights hanging around a life time of motor heads no one ever talks about zddp for classic cars? ------------- former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: December-23-2012 at 7:29pm
|
Peter, I mess a lot with old cars and trucks and hang with a lot of "car buddies" on a daily basis. (a lot of them still drag race) Like us, they are all aware of the loss of zink in oil. Most with flat tappet engines will run the additive. When building an engine, we usually use a roller cam in the rebuild. Easer to do than in a bacerds motor. Another thing.... in the last few years is most are running E85 in their race cars. A lot has changed since the days of "260"!  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Tonali_III
Date Posted: December-24-2012 at 12:51am
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I remember "260". That was the greatest fuel that Sunoco put out. Imagine being able to get that kind of octane simply by selecting it at your Sunoco gas station. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=553&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1974 Southwind 20 <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6752" rel="nofollow">1972 Mustan |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-25-2012 at 1:16am
You found these guy's on line and they told you they were very capable? Be careful,you should check out local car shows,talk to the Mopar guy's see who they recommend. Your alot closer to So Cal too,there has to be someone there that knows Mopars  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-25-2012 at 2:07am
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I know everyone has their favorite oil, and I agree that you need ZDDP. I am not trying to be disagreeable or dismiss Gary or Pete's advice, they, and others here, are Correct Craft experts, something I am not. Oil analysis shows Valvoline VR-1 to have 1200 to 1300 PPM of ZDDP. I am sure it is good oil, and it is the least difficult to find. I prefer and use Redline 40WT (15W40) race oil in my old Willys and some of my friends vehicles with antique flat tappet engines. At 2500 PPM of Phosphorus and 2400 PPM of Zinc, it has twice as much ZDDP as Valvoline VR-1. Although probably not necessary, I will use it in my Mustang (1970 Ford 302) when I finish it this summer. Remember, most racing motor oils have less detergent and require more frequent oil changes than "regular" motor oil, Valvoline VR-1 and Redline included. With their reduced level of detergent, the oils will not keep contaminants in suspension as well as conventional oils. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=15&pcid=1" rel="nofollow - Redline 40WT oil ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-25-2012 at 12:46pm
Gary, You do realize that anything found on the internet is the absolute truth!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-25-2012 at 7:17pm
Not true. Vr1 does not have lower detergent levels than "regular" oil. Only valvolines traditional race oil (blue bottle) has the lower detergent package. I'm not smart enough to know what level of zddp would be considered "too much"... But 2x the levels in what we consider to be adequate certainly would have me looking for the answer to that question. ------------- |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-25-2012 at 7:52pm
I don't want to start an argument about motor oil and detergent levels, but I got my information from the Valvoline site, which says; "What are the benefits to using a racing oil versus a regular "street legal" oil? The Valvoline VR1 Racing & "Not Street Legal" racing oils contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils". My research from a long time when deciding what motor oil to use in our antique military vehicles and my brothers old cars indicated that 2,400 PPM is probably the limit for ZDDP, beyond that it is providing no benefit. I believe that is the reason that Redline has chosen that level. Here is the link to the Valvoline VR-1 site. http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/" rel="nofollow - Valvoline VR-1 FAQ ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-25-2012 at 8:46pm
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I was bored and had forgotten the reason for a maximum of about 2,500 PPM of ZDDP. I did a little checking and found that above that concentration the ZDDP will no longer remain in solution in motor oil and "falls out". ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: December-25-2012 at 8:54pm
| Happy Peace On Earth Day guys !!! |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: December-25-2012 at 9:01pm
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Here's the motor oil I use. And it costs less. And it has the Peace Sign right there on the bottle!  Peace Out!!! |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: December-25-2012 at 10:53pm
john, while you share your knowledge, I think I will log off........Billy  ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-25-2012 at 11:09pm
Have a wonderful Christmas Billy. I hope you and your family are well and can enjoy some time together. Best wishes for the new year! Catch you next time. ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 12:05am
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Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 1:03am
  ------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 1:42am
I think Billy may have something there. Kendall, Ford Total Performance 302, they seem to go together. ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 12:55pm
Youre right, I misspoke. The VR1 does have a slightly lower detergent package than their regular oils (this reduces the oil's tendency to foam at higher RPM). Based on the conversation I had with one of their techs a few years ago, along with what Im reading on the web, the VR1 still has a healthy detergent package... and I dont see any official word from Valvoline that recommends a shortened oil change interval due to the lack of detergents. Their off road racing oil (blue bottle) on the other hand, is a non-detergent oil that comes with a 500 mile oil change interval, last time I checked. Its unfortunate that they lump the 2 oils together in that statement, as they are 2 very different products. I dont know why Valvoline has taken their product spec sheets off the web and replaced it with a FAQ section with marginal value. Id rather get the word from the engineers than from the marketing team... this is one of the reasons Ive been using Mobil1 15w50 more and more often. That, and the cost of VR1 has crept up to the point where they cost about the same. ------------- |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 2:58pm
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Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 3:06pm
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Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 3:09pm
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Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 3:44pm
Hey, Dr. They aint got nuthin on this oil. Nothing but the best for my CC. ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 3:59pm
After extensive testing and thousands of hours of research the best formula for extended life: +  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 5:02pm
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Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 5:05pm
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Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 5:08pm
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Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 5:12pm
| Astroglide??? Isn't that for trannys and lower units??? |
Posted By: Tonali_III
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 5:18pm
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OMG You guys are killing me! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=553&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1974 Southwind 20 <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6752" rel="nofollow">1972 Mustan |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 5:22pm
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funnnnnny chit.... Al, you on vacation this week? looks like a lot of spare time on your hands. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 6:18pm
And rear ends! ------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 6:59pm
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It also prevents rod knock ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 7:22pm
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Now I understand why gear lube has an unpleasant odor. ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: December-26-2012 at 11:17pm
john, have you been smelling quinners dip stick again..........  ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: December-27-2012 at 1:04am
Cans...He hates cans!!!............ Name the movie. ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: Tonali_III
Date Posted: December-27-2012 at 1:11am
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Uh...what can of cans? Mexi - cans (illegals), Jamai - cans (illegals). (No offense intended). ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=553&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1974 Southwind 20 <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6752" rel="nofollow">1972 Mustan |
Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: December-27-2012 at 3:29am
The Jerk, Steve Martin. To easy. ------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-27-2012 at 3:54am
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Watch it, my daughter and her husband are CANadian AmeriCANs. ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |