Alignment/coupler
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28516
Printed Date: September-26-2024 at 8:14pm
Topic: Alignment/coupler
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Subject: Alignment/coupler
Date Posted: December-08-2012 at 7:51pm
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Hello all, I watched Pete's video on alignment and have removed the bolts connecting the vdrive coupler to the shaft coupler. With all bolts removed, I can not get the two surfaces to come apart. Does anyone have a trick for this? ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-08-2012 at 8:46pm
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Chad, I know Eric uses a putty knife but a old wood chisel will work too. Drive ether between the two coupling faces. It's quite common for the two faces to rust together. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-08-2012 at 8:50pm
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Ok, thanks. I will try that after dinner. ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 12:22am
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Pete, Evidently I am doing something wrong. I marked the coupler and measured it in the same spot several times. the initial measurement was .005, I measured the starboard side directly across the coupler and it was .009. I then rotated the shaft around to check and see if the shaft was possibly bent. I ended up doing a couple os full rotations and the port side that was .005 went up to as high as .030. I spun the prop a few more times figuring that the shaft may be slipping aft in the log and pushed it back forward and the same spot that was .005 initially went to .002. I am obviously doing something wrong as the spot I marked on the coupler (shaft side) could not change that much. I then checked the starboard side immediately across from my mark and it was .006 this time still keeping with the .004 difference. I then checked the same port side and it read .003 due to what I believe is the feeler gauge pushing the two couplers apart. Is there an easy way to keep the shaft in the same part of the log as you are trying to align it or am I just doing something wrong? Sorry for all the questions, this is my first time doing an alinment and I want to make sure I do it correctly. Thanks ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 1:55pm
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Well, I finally found a way to get consitent readings. I pulled the shaft aft and let the shaft stay? (ring around the shaft with allen bolt that keeps the shaft from sliding back in the event the coupler lets loose) rest on the packing nut. I spun the prop multiple times and came back with consistent numbers which weere close to my original numbers before I had everything loosened up. Now comes the fun part of shifting the engine and vdrive just a bit. ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2012 at 3:37pm
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Chad, Keep in mind that it isn't the actual measurement you are going after but the difference from top to bottom and starboard to port. This is where the .003" max comes to play. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 12:16am
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It has been a frustrating day to say the least. I can not get this thing aligned to save my life. I have ran out of motor mount adjustment on the forward engine mount that I need to make the coupler get within limits at the coupler and have the strut straight in the log. I can get it in limits but the strut ends up being offset from the coupler and it would put a bind on the shaft if I connected it. I have looked behind the boat and the shaft is perfectly lined up with the rudder by the eye when it is not coupled and I can spin it with a finger. Not sure where to go from here. ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 9:40am
Alignment of the strut has nothing to do with the rudder. The strut needs to be aligned with the hull hole/log. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Nautique Fan wrote:Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 12:01pm
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When the shaft is sitting in the log without being connected to the coupler, shouldn't it be straight as long as there is no bend in the shaft? Could it be that my strut is about .004 off line causing my issues? I know the shaft is not beant due to it does not matter if I spin the shaft and measure the port and starboard sides I get the same readings as before which are .004 different from each other. How can I check to see if the shaft is centered in the log? ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 12:21pm
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You have a V drive, so I'm not sure if you have room to do this, but I used a V block, (a small piece of 2x4 with a V notch cut in it) and placed it in front of the log to support the shaft where it seemed to be putting no pressure on the packing gland due to weight, and then got under the boat with a flashlight and follwed the shaft through the log and checked the clearence between the shaft and the log. It may not be exactly in the middle, but if yu have enough clearence, you'll probably be alright. If your out of adjustment on the engine, then that's a dilema for the professionals to help you with. I read recently that .001" per inch of flange is adequate alignment. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 12:30pm
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It sounds like you are chasing the alignment around. As Bruce implied, you need to determine where the shaft spins freely in the strut, and then align the powertrain to that point. It helps if you physically support the shaft to stay in place, otherwise it will move around under its own weight. You definitely dont want to move the engine to where the shaft sits under its own weight. Ideally, the strut and log will be aligned to each other (such that the shaft spins freely when its centered in the log), but that is not entirely required. So long as the shaft has sufficient clearance in the log (not rubbing or dangerously close) at the point where it spins freely in the strut, youre ok. ------------- |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 8:14pm
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A small trick I use for initial and strut alignments is to loosen the shaft log and slide it off the hull tube towards the trans. Install a shaft zinc just above the hull tube keeping hub / strut clearance in spec. The shaft zinc is football shaped and will center itself (and the shaft) in the bronze hull tube. I use this to get the strut centered and stay there when re-bedding. It can also be helpful on long, unsupported shafts for engine alignment, assuming the strut is centered to begin with. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 8:38pm
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Just to make sure Im understanding you, here's my translation: shaft log = shaft log hose bronze hull tube = shaft log If thats the case, nice trick... assuming theres room to pull the shaft log hose forward. Agreed that to get this far, strut to log alignment must already be correct... otherwise you need to take a step back and start from the beginning! ------------- |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: December-10-2012 at 10:12pm
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Your translation is in the correct direction. the Professor will likely find error but in general terms: The shaft LOG is the packing gland assembly or seal carrier in drip less type. I lump the hose in with it. IE: Shaft log clamps means the hose clamps for the shaft log attaching hose. A hull tube is hull tube is a hull tube regardless of what its made of with the exception of one being bored through the deadwood. (dont see that much anymore) Many people have difficulty accounting for shaft sag and side play when doing alignments. The centering anode helps. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 2:03am
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Evidently I am in a little over my head. But, that is how I learn a lot of things. This may end up costing me some money, but I am going to figure this thing out. Here is the reason I wanted to check alignment, I originally bought the boat grom the original owner with 289 hrs on it. He had a prop strike and had white lake marine straighten the shaft, put a new prop on it. The first time I owned the boat, it ran perfect. No vibrations, nothing ran great. I sold the boat to my buddy as I took a job in a coastal city and did not want my correct craft in salt water. We ended staying in Atlanta and about a yr later my buddy needed to pay college tuition for his kids and I bought the boat back. After I got it home I realized one of the prop blades was bent after I brought the boat up to about 32mph it had a small vibration. I sent the prop out and $150 later it is perfect again. While it was out, I decided I needed to address an oil leak in the vdrive and I would go ahead and align it. The prop looked like it had hit something without the prop spinning. It was a minor bend, but I like everything to be perfect and I had a small vibration. I plan on starting from scratch on this project and seeing if I can figure this out. I plan on removing the packing nut and trying to make sure the shaft is centered in the tube. I am not exactly sure how to start from scratch on this project. All motor mounts are loosened up so the motor moves freely with a crow bar. But, I need to make sure the shaft is centered in the hull. I am thinking I might just throw a new shaft at it to be extra sure that everything is straight. But, feel I might just be wasting money. ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 9:55am
 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 11:24am
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If there have been prop strikes, I would bet that the strut is bent and this is causing all your issues. If the shaft does not align properly in the shaft log (or reasonably close anyway as Tim stated above) your first order of business is removing the strut and verifying that it isn't bent. John and I were chasing a shaft alignment issue in his boat and were experiencing the exact same problem that you have. We had the engine pried over until it was up against the front engine mount and the coupler alignment was still off. When we removed the rubber hose from the shaft log we found the shaft was actually rubbing against the shaft log. We ended up removing the strut and found it was indeed bent. Keep in mind that looking at a bent strut with the naked eye you'll probably never see it unless it's pretty severe. Your only option is removing it, getting it straightened, reinstalling and then go through your alignment. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 12:34pm
| I can see how straightening from left to right can be done, but what about up and down if you don't know what the spec was originally? Of 4 old Correct Crafts I've pulled apart, 3 have been rubbing the bottom of the strut or within 1/millionth of an inch of it. I'm not sure if boats settle or they were just poorly lined up from the beginning. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 12:42pm
I hate to nit pick, but your terminology is still incorrect. As Pete's diagram indicates, the shaft log, shaft log hose and packing gland are all separate pieces. If you wanted to lump them all together and refer to them as the "shaft log assembly" then I suppose that could be correct- but not exactly helpful in this scenario, since alignment does not deal with the shaft log hose or packing gland (only the strut and shaft log). People have a hard enough time grasping the concept and procedure of aligning an inboard... mixing terminology up doesnt help things.  Eddie, Ive run into that same scenario you describe a few times- the strut being misaligned (bent or simply installed incorrectly) enough to cause the shaft to rub the shaft log. Yikes! It sure doesnt take much misalignment of the strut to cause a big problem at the log (which will multiply by the time you get up to the powertrain). Even a straight and properly placed strut can move around enough within the mounting bolt holes to cause issues. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 12:49pm
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Bruce, Ive seen that as well (rubbing the bottom of the log). My guess is that the misalignment was there from the factory (as opposed to hull sag) but I dont know that for a fact. I dont think a shop can do anything about that, even if they were to have the strut spec in hand- the castings are fairly rough and will vary a bit from piece to piece. Fore/aft adjustments would need to be made at the time of install- washers under the base is the common trick... though massaging the angle of the base slightly can be done as well (we did this on the BFN). A grinder, a file, and a little bit of patience is all it took- a steady hand helps too! ------------- |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 12:53pm
Maybe I am missing what you are saying, but if it was really low I would shim the back of the strut.. or alternatively sand the front side of the mounting surface down a little down a little. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 12:55pm
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Dammit tim! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 1:01pm
| When checking a strut for straightness, I understand how you can tell from right to left, but the angle would be hard to determine if you didn't know the spec. One of our boats hit a BFR at idle and wrecked the prop and bent the shaft. The strut looked straight, but the shaft was darn close to the bottom of the log like about all the other boats I've seen. I didn't know if we caused that or if it was like that before hitting the rock. We removed the strut and had it and a spare checked for straightness. They were both straight and the angle on one was 16 degrees and the other 17 degrees. We put the original back on which was 17 and shimmed the back to get us in the ball park, but I had wondered if it had been bent and we had to bring it to a machine shop, how would they ever know what the angle it was supposed to be? |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 1:12pm
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the up and down is within limits at the moment. The problem has been with the left and right. I think that the only thing to do at this point is to pull the strut and send it out to make sure it is straight. I want this thing to be perfect if it kills me and with the unknown about the prop strike from the first owner to the unknown anbout my buddy who has not come clean about him hitting the prop, I feel I need to start from scratch and make sure it is done right. Is there a reputable company that I can send my strut to make sure it is straight or is this something that a local shop can tell me. I wasn't sure if they need a specific mold for this strut or not? I don't want to get this deep in to the problem and have in the back of my mind that there could be a problem with the strut. ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 1:35pm
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Before pulling the strut, Id pull the packing gland and shaft log hose and see how centered the shaft is in the log. If its pretty close to centered, then leave the strut alone. If its way off (rubbing the edge of the log) then its probably worth pulling and sending out to be straightened. Bruce, Im guessing a shop will only check straightness side to side... CC didnt readily advertise specs on strut angles so far as I know, and I doubt a shop would go looking for it. A hit hard enough to change the angle significantly is likely to render the strut unfit for reuse anyways, I suspect. ------------- |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 1:56pm
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I will take it apart and check it out when I get back to the house in a couple of days before I tear in to it to make sure I am not making this in to a bigger problem than it needs to be. ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: December-11-2012 at 4:34pm
I hear you on this one Tim. John's was rubbing pretty hard on one of the sides but up and down was pretty much dead on. It was straightened out nicely and when we tried to put it back in, we stuggled a bit trying to get that thing centered. By "WE" you should all know that it really means "I". You all are fully aware of keeping any tools out of John's hands?!?!?!?!? Anyway, side to side was good then but the up and down was off. I ended up cutting apart a stainless feeler gauge and if I remember right, I ended up using a .020" or .021" blade stuck under the base of the strut to get the shaft centered. It's amazing how much that .020" at the base of the strut moved the shaft in the shaft log. Worked out great though. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 12:05am
 When talking of the log being centered. Am I trying to center the shaft where it goes through the packing nut or the hull? I have been unable to pull the tube/(hose) forward to see where the shaft goes through the hull. From the schematic Pete posted it looks as though there is a tube under the (hose) that the hose is clamped on to? ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 12:43am
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Yes ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 8:57am
That "tube" is the log. It is what you need to align the strut to when the shaft turns the easiest in the strut cutlass bearing. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 9:48am
For shimming, I have found these to work great even though I have mentioned using flat washers. They are easy to use on older non recessed struts. With newer recessed struts, you will need to bend the tab on the end. McMaster has them in stainless. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-shims/=kl5j36" rel="nofollow - shims ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 12:19pm
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When aligning it, am I checking to see where it is centered from the picture I posted or where the shaft goes through the hull. Because, the pic I posted shows it being pretty evenly spaced by the eye. ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 12:34pm
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I am getting to the point where I might damage the hose trying to remove the packing nut from the tube. Is the packing nut supposed to be removable or is it glued to the packing nut? It also does not want to slide away from the hull. I pried the crap out of it and got no where. I realize if I damage the hose, I will be pulling the shaft off the boat to replace it and this project is already a handful. Can someone tell me if I am suppose to take the nut apart from the hose or if this is one unit and I need to pull it directly from where it meets the hull? ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: echo
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 1:13pm
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I had to reinstall my prop the other day and was able to get a good look at the shaft alignment through the hull just by crawling under the boat and shining a light at the point of entry. I dread having to re-do the packing glad as I am sure I would run into the same problem with the hose. Also, I noticed you were not able to get left to right movement for aligning the couplers. Have you looked into how the v-drive is supposed to be aligned? I have the same set up and the v-drive was bolted down to the mounting brackets. There are left to right and up and down adjustment screws on the v-drive mounting brackets. 
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 1:14pm
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You should be able to pull the hose from the log while leaving the other end attached to the packing gland. Then you'll see where the shaft is in the log. Try twisting it to break it free. ------------- |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 1:25pm
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Yeah, I downloaded the manual from Walters. I loosened up all the bolts holding the v-drive in place as they suggest and moved the engine/vdrive around for 2 days while it was loose and no luck lining it up. Is there a particular dripless packing that everyone usually goes with? I wasnt sure if OJ and the one from Correct Craft are the same. I only ask because I think I am about to destroy the hose I have trying to remove the packing nut and if I am going to go through the trouble, then I might as well do it right. ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 3:09pm
Bingo... It can be very tight, but it didn't grow there. I *believe* the optional dripless from correct craft is the Oj. Great idea to add it if you've got the shaft out, since you have a v-drive. ------------- |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 5:52pm
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Finally got the hose off using a non correctcraftfan approved vise grip. Here is a picture of the shaft in the log. It looks to be centered ok. It is not perfect, but it is definetly not touching on the sides. I checked the rear of the shaft for straightness and it is not bent there either. Where would you go from here? Would you even mess with moving the strut? Where can I buy the zinc footballs spoke of earlier?  ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 7:15pm
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Is the shaft aligned in the strut where youre showing it (spins easily by hand)? Or is that resting under its own weight? Or are the couplers still connected (not yet aligned?)? If thats where it spins freely in the strut, then youre probably close enough. ------------- |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 7:37pm
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You might want to lube the bushing or it might feel tight no matter where the shaft is. ------------- |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 8:10pm
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I have been pouring soapy water on the cutlass before spinning it. Spins easily that way not coupled, coupled is a bit tougher. I am going to take a stab at getting the shaft perfectly even on the log by shimming the strut. I already have it all apart, so might as well get it right. I spoke with a local mechanic who told me .010 difference was acceptable. I dont think he has been on this forum LOL. I know that is not acceptable either, so a few more days of messing with this thing and it should be right. ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 8:29pm
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If the above picture shows the shaft as its aligned to the strut (not sitting under its own weight) and it has more than 1/8" clearance to the log all around, I would personally not mess with it. Align the motor to it. If the strut were already off and shaft apart, thats another story... but if you'll be pulling the strut off and resealing it, not to mention pressing the coupler off the shaft to get it apart, thats not a fun job. Maybe if you needed to replace the strut bushings at the same time, it would be worth considering. Or if youre a glutton for un-fun projects and have some free time on your hands, ha. Definitely consider replacing the strut bushings while you have the strut off, if you decide to go down that road. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-14-2012 at 8:29pm
Does he rebuild Walters V drives???  It is NOT acceptable are there would be a rather large chance of damaging the V drive.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-15-2012 at 9:48am
If the forward section of shaft isn't "hanging" with it's own weight, then Tim's statement below is correct.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-19-2012 at 12:10am
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The last picture I took showed the shaft pretty centered. It was attached to the vdrive and was ok to turn, but not as light as I wanted it to be and I was unable to get to the .003. So, I started putting washers in different spots on the strut. After playing with it for a while, I had the shaft centered by placing a 3/8" washer in the front and rear of the port side of the strut but I didn't like the way it lined up with the rudder. I didn't try to match the couplers up at that point though. But, the shaft seemed to be centered in the tube. So, I took all the washers out and the shaft wants to have very little clearance on the hull near the vdrive end port side. The strut does not appear to be bent. But, something must not be right if it will not lineup on its on without spacers? I have checked the shaft on both the coupler side and the prop side and it appears to be straight. Something is not right somewhere as I have to put pressure on the shaft to center it and I am leaning towards the strut. Is there somewhere that you can send a strut to check for straightness? ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: December-19-2012 at 6:43am
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I think I've read where the struts are sometimes adjusted on the boat during initial set-up. That is to say that a rail straight strut may not be necessary. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-19-2012 at 9:13am
Again, forget the rudder. Align the strut to the hull log. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-19-2012 at 10:01am
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Ok, I will disregard the rudder and see if it lines up at the coupler now. I will let you guys know how it goes later today. ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-19-2012 at 12:55pm
Agree with Pete about the rudder- ignore it.
With comments like this, I still question whether you understand the concept of alignment or not. Go back and read the comments in this thread. You need to do these steps in order! 1. Find where the shaft turns freely in the strut. Support the shaft so it stays in this position. 2. Look at where the shaft goes through the log (after doing step #1). If its close enough to being centered, move on. If its rubbing or close to it, then the strut needs to be adjusted- either moved within its mounting holes, shimmed, or straightened. 3. Once you have aligned the strut and log, you can start to move the powertrain to line up with the shaft. Again, you are moving the powertrain to meet the shaft in the position it sits after step #1. It sounds like you are moving the shaft to a position within the log, and THEN determining whether it is "aligned enough" in the strut... and that is backasswards. That would be a recipe for misaligment, as even if you can get the couplers to mate nicely, if the shaft is in the wrong place to begin with, you havent accomplished anything. ------------- |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-21-2012 at 6:28pm
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While I am not the best communicator and usually post while I am frustrated, I do understand the concept. I have made a lot of rash decisions in this project and posted things I should have thought about before just posting. I didn't have a prop puller, so I was trying to shim the strut with the prop on the boat. I finally decided to go out and borrow another prop puller and pull the prop. After pulling the prop I removed the strut and soon realized why my problem has been so bad. While you couldn't tell it by looking at the back of the strut, the strut was bent and twisted. The cutlass is showing a little wear as well.(dryrot- 15 yrs old.)So, I am ordering another strut, I know you can bend struts back and shim them to fit, but me being a rookie, I want to know that the part is right from the start. I am ordering a new one when everyone opens back up after the hollidays. Thanks for everyone's help and patience. Happy Hollidays I am also going to pull the shaft and put a dripless shaft packing in it. I am leaning to the PSS over the OJ (any recommendations would be great) I am sending the shaft out to make sure it is straight and having it matched up with a new coupler by the guys down at General propeller down in FL. After that, it should be all good and I can align it with everything known to be straight. May be overkill, but I don't want to mess with this again. ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-21-2012 at 6:35pm
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If your strut looks that bad to the naked eye, Id bet good money your shaft is bent too. Rather than spend a dime on R&Ring the old shaft, Id highly recommend a new ARE dual taper from SkiDIM. ------------- |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-21-2012 at 6:40pm
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That is a good thought. By the time I shipped the thing down there and bought a new coupler, I would only be saving a couple hundred dollars. I just need to quit being cheap and pull the trigger on the A.R.E ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-21-2012 at 8:19pm
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Chad, Don't count on the new strut to match. They are not a precision machined item so the new one may require shimming. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Nautique Fan
Date Posted: December-21-2012 at 9:08pm
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Thanks Pete, I was looking at the link you sent me earlier about shims. Is there a particular thickness you buy or do I just need to buy a bunch of different widths? Wasnt sure is there was a general order. My boat strut is recessed in the hull. I know you said to bend the tab to make the shim you pictured work, didnt know if you preffered a different one if the only boat you are aligning is recessed. I realize for you with as many boats as you align, it is probably easier to buy just the one type of shim. ------------- 1997 Nautique Super Sport 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-21-2012 at 11:05pm
The width of the shim is governed by the slot with for the bolt size. I would get .010", .020" and some .030" thicknesses. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |