do you think this needs to be repaired?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28669
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 1:48pm
Topic: do you think this needs to be repaired?
Posted By: bobbarker733
Subject: do you think this needs to be repaired?
Date Posted: January-06-2013 at 8:49pm
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Hey guys, first post of the year! happy new year to you all. So here it is, late last season I damaged the hull launching/recovering my SN 86. I'm a beginner, first boat... I prepared some pictures to send to repair shops, I want to have this fixed before the season begins.     The padding on the guide post was too high and the hull rubbed against the steel pipe... beginner? you bet. I'm also using a shallow ramp so it's not helping. However, there's also a large area that's been scratched because of a %%?/&*&? cement block at the ramp in the shallow portion when the boat was pushed by the wake. There's barely any depth to it. See pictures below, what's your opinion?    One last thing! Also on each side of the boat, there are some stress cracks about 60" long. Before buying the boat, I had it surveyed and the guy said it was "better" to have them fixed, but not critical since the boat is always stored on a trailer and also I'm planning to do occasional use. Once or twice a week. So I didn't bother with them, especially since the moisture content was pretty low for a boat this age. My insurance company said I was not required to fix them, but to monitor them. So I just measured and mapped them.    So last question: at which point do you have to fix them? thanks in advance. ------------- 86 SN and lovin' it! |
Replies:
Posted By: snipe
Date Posted: January-06-2013 at 9:08pm
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Those "nicks" don't look large enough to mess with. The larger area looks as if it should buff out easy enough. Clean it up good and you'll be ready to go. Good luck. Happy New Year back at ya...  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=4810" rel="nofollow - 80 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-06-2013 at 9:18pm
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Francois, Egon is correct that the scuffs will wet sand/buff out. Do it yourself. On the chine nicks, you can leave them or Egon is correct that it won't hurt to leave them. If you do want them fixed, get a gel repair kit and do it yourself. The stress cracks on the hull side do concern me. They are typical when the stringers start to fail/rot. Did the surveyor investigate the stringer condition? What did he say? If he didn't check the stringers, then I sorry to say you picked the wrong surveyor. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: bobbarker733
Date Posted: January-07-2013 at 1:54am
well the report says the following for the stringers: "good condition. there were 2 stiffening stringers that were visible in the engine well. they were on the lower hull 2 feet below the hull to deck joint seam." they define good condition as only minor cosmetic or structural discrepancis noted. about repairing the nicks, do those only require gelcoat patching, and no fiberglass work? I've never done such repairs. thanks ------------- 86 SN and lovin' it! |
8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-07-2013 at 2:35am
Keep in mind that many of us did not ever do any either and unfortunately some of us had a much more daunting project. The hardest thing I have found with gelcoat repair is the color match and you having a newer boat helps since some gelcoat suppliers have the color formulas. You might still have to tint to "adjust" to your shade though. You basically clean and sand the area,sometimes grinding with a dremel tool helps.You mix the gel and apply,with a chine repair you might have to "hold" it in place,I just use masking tape and let it dry.When ready you can block sand wet with 400, being careful because it's an edge. Then going finer like if you were doing the whole boat,which I would anyway so you match the color to a clean smooth boat and to remove those scrapes. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-07-2013 at 9:53am
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francois - I recommend you take a core sample of the stringer on the side of the stress crack. To do this, get a 1 inch hole saw. Drill the hole behind the engine, only drill until you cut through the glass shell. Then you will have visibility to the wood. If the wood is wet/decaying, let us know. If it is dry, then just seal it back up with some epoxy resin & fiberglass cloth. Also look at the floor-to-hull joint next to the stress crack - is it separated? ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-07-2013 at 12:28pm
That would be my guess based on the location of the cracks (near the windshield). Seems to be a common problem on 2001's. I have NOT seen a strong correlation between waterline cracks and stringer condition. Ive seen mushy boats with beautiful gel and solid boats with loudy gel. Id say the gel cracking at or below the waterline has more to do with the gel itself (bad formulation like they had in the early-mid 60's and ~'87) and/or whether the boat sat in the water for extended periods of time. The damage along the chine looks pretty minor- it appears to be only cosmetic. ------------- |
Posted By: bobbarker733
Date Posted: January-09-2013 at 4:05pm
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I sent an email to the guy who surveyed and here are his comments: what do you guys think about the statement I highlighted in bold? your advise is appreciated. " I have received your e-mail and should report to you the following; as stated to you at time of inspection, the vessel did in fact have stress cracks to the port and strbd hull side areas. A moisture test was taken and reveled only + or -15% moisture to the hull / stringer areas. Also, at time or inspection we spoke of the installation of new flooring / carpet; in this case, if the floor / hull side was separated in past time it was not evident at time of inspection. However, a separation of the floor to hull bond would not create 50 to 60 inch horizontal cracks unless the complete bond was disrupted. as stated, there was evidence of impact damage to these areas from docking resulting in hull side flex creating stress not fractures. Furthermore, your vessel has tow centerline stringers running stern to bow with only attachment bonds to the port and starboard and foam injected. If the stringers were compromised, there would be major fracturing to the hull bottom near the chines not the hull sides. If you would like, we can meet and I will go over the areas with you verbally so as to fully understand the stress cracks. Also, Drilling 25mm holes behind the engine will not prove hull side stress only motor mount and center line structure integrity." ------------- 86 SN and lovin' it! |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-09-2013 at 4:19pm
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I have never seen a CC with "major fracturing to the hull bottom near the chines" (at least not isolated in that area) and I have seen MANY with mushy stringers. So I would disagree with that statement. Based on the boats I have seen, there is no guarantee that a boat with rotten stringers will have any sort of evidence of such from the outside of the hull. In fact, most dont. I think core samples of stringers in various places, as well as looking for other issues, such as a separated floor/wall and the common "soft spots" in the floor (pylon to battery box, full width of the boat, as that is the only place where theres wood in the floor) are your best bet. CC's glass lay up (both hull and stringers) was thick enough to keep the hull shape in tact, even with rotten stringers- especially on the older boats. The comment, "your vessel has tow (sic) centerline stringers running stern to bow with only attachment bonds to the port and starboard and foam injected" is a little curious. I dont know what he means by the part in bold, but it sounds like he may not have as good handle on how Correct Craft built boats as he thinks he does. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-09-2013 at 8:43pm
I totally agree with this statement. It was my very first thought about this "surveyor". ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-09-2013 at 8:46pm
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Tim - I think that statement is saying that the stringers are connected to the gunnels via the floor, but there is not any cross members between them, until the pylon. The guy is definitely trying to protect his reputation with his wording. Similar tale - My brother had a sailboat surveyed several years ago, & they found the foam core saturated. (He said it was the best $300 he ever spent & backed away) I am wondering how they detected that - ultrasonic inspection maybe? ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |