Stringer Repair 1985 2001 Ski Nautique
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29032
Printed Date: January-15-2025 at 12:54pm
Topic: Stringer Repair 1985 2001 Ski Nautique
Posted By: iplan
Subject: Stringer Repair 1985 2001 Ski Nautique
Date Posted: February-20-2013 at 12:10pm
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So, I'm taking the plunge. From my first contemplative post (http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28637&title=stringer-replacement-decisions) I have made progress. The garage to conduct the repair and later store the boat is mostly complete. The boat is inside, and I'm ready to begin the process. The carpet has been removed, and I'm taking out the furniture today. Engine removal, etc. is slotted for this weekend, as floor removal. Before I start cutting on the floor, I had a question: What do you guys recommend to use to brace the boat so it doesn't sag any further when you remove the floor? I'll get some pictures posted ASAP! ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Replies:
Posted By: gR@HaM
Date Posted: February-20-2013 at 12:23pm
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As far as I understand you need to take the boat off the trailer and make some wooden mounting blocks for it, there are plenty of folks on here who have posted photos, I'll eventually be looking to do the same.. ------------- '82 Ski Tique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-20-2013 at 1:17pm
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No need to take the boat off the trailer... you just dont want to rely on the trailer alone to support the hull properly with the stringers and floor removed. The trailer plus some strategically placed braces (Ive put them under the chine at the rear and again under the windshield) should shore it up properly. ------------- |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: February-20-2013 at 1:56pm
This is the question I'm driving at: What did you use as a brace? ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
TRBenj wrote:Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-20-2013 at 2:30pm
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Brace material isnt really important so long as its strong and stays put. Some people build their own fancy braces, some people make them adjustable, others swivel to account for hull angle, etc. On our BFN, we just chose some flat spots of the hull in the locations I described above and used cinder blocks and 4x4's (and some wood blocks/shims to dial in the height). ------------- |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: March-20-2013 at 9:50pm
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It turns out that I had to finish my building before I took the floor out (as it wasn't quite waterproof with no shingles or sides) ~ imagine that. It's still not "done" but today's the first day of spring, so I figured I needed to at least get going. The carpet, engine, tranny, exhaust piping,etc., are all out. I can not figure out the gas tank (I got it empty, but the hoses are immovable ~ essentially frozen. I was thinking I might just "cut" them off. Does anyone have a better solution? Cutting the floor did not go as expected I tried a circular saw, but that didn't work. I also bought a 4.5 inch grinder, but I got the wrong kind of disks, so I couldn't even try it to see if it would be any better. If you recommend grinder, what disk would be best? On the starboard side, the floor is mostly separated from the hull. I was really tempted to just pry it back from there (but I didn't want to break through the outer hull......). Still now idea how to post pictures on this forum.... Best, J ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-20-2013 at 10:20pm
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Jonathan, If the hoses are that hard, it would be best to replace them so, just cut them. Why didn't the circular hand saw not work? When you go to "post reply" (not quick reply) and click on the tree with the up arrow for picture posting, what happens? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: March-20-2013 at 11:42pm
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Hey ~~~ that's why I couldn't do it ~ I was hitting the "Quick Reply" at the bottom. This first picture shows the extent of floor separation (I put screw drivers in the crack so you could see how far it went).... It is basically separated from the air intake box to about 2 feet in front of the gas tank on the starboard side. You can also see the white line cut from the circular saw ~~~~~  The Port Side Secondary Stringer (below) has known issues.  No idea why pulling this tank is so hard. I'm cutting it tomorrow (I did get a fillup when I emptied the tank ~ so I'm still in the black). It also looks like there is a leak somewhere (see the dark stains running down the left side?)  Leveled and braced ~~~~~ For some reason, I'm really proud of this accomplishment.  As to the circular saw and the floor: It may have been a blade issue. I had a plywood blade ~~~~ little bitty teeth. It was brand new however, so I figured it would work on the fiberglass. I set the blade to cut about an eighth of an inch, but it was not happy, and made a lot of sparks. After a lot of forcing, it finally did draw a tiny line down the side, but that was about it. Once the line was drawn, it did not come free like I figured it would. I know this has to be a "user error" ~~~ any suggestions? Best, J ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-21-2013 at 8:58am
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Keep going! You have plenty of removing work in front of you. I would caution you on the use of a level. It only works if the boat is level. I like to use a straight edge across known points like the old floor and then measure to the stringers. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-21-2013 at 12:25pm
What the hell does this mean? You are going to make a huge dusty mess inside if you cut and grind everything out now. Do everything except the stringers outside, on the trailer. Maybe someone who has done a SN2001 hull can further comment. PS. Looks like Gary has been cutting off the [/ at the end of his quotes, probably just getting a little wild with the delete button while slimming down the quoted content. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-21-2013 at 12:36pm
Yeah, Im not sure what Pete is saying either. Looks like he's trying to get the boat braced in place (level) before removing the old stringers. Thats a good idea, but doing all your demo work inside (grinding, etc) where you'll later be doing all your glassing will make a real mess. Instead, I would suggest: 1. Take a lot measurements of the old stringers prior to removal. The most critical things are the engine mounts- get several reference points on where theyre located. Height and location fore/aft are critical. Everything else can move around a bit (floor height, etc). 2. Remove the old stringers and floor (outside). Might want to keep a lip of the old floor there as a reference point while you put the new stringers in (remove before new floor goes in). 3. Brace the gutted boat level. Use the gunnels as your side to side reference, and the old floor points as your front to back. 4. Commence with the rebuild, knowing that your boat is level, and thus, so should be all your new structure as you put it back in. ------------- |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-21-2013 at 12:39pm
I haven't done this myself, but I remember others used a sawzall for ripping the floor. You can just let it hug the hull side as you travel down the length. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-21-2013 at 12:42pm
I know some have used a sawzall, but that can be real slow. Circular saw works great with a more aggressive (framing) blade. Stay a few inches away from the edges. ------------- |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: March-21-2013 at 8:15pm
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Gas tank is out ~~~ finally. BTW, when I was reading the initial stringer replacement threads, I was amazed by how many times people were washing the transom out..... well now I know. It's a filthy mess down there! Removing the rudder assembly has me a bit unnerved. Besides taking lots of pictures and video does anyone have any suggestions? ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-21-2013 at 9:23pm
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: March-21-2013 at 10:25pm
I used the diamond blade on a grinder... Joe recommended it in his rebuild thread. I felt that it worked pretty well, but scared myself once I got to about the drivers seat. I didn't cut the bottom of the hull, but sure could have. make sure and give a good couple of inches to the hull side, then curve sharply to the keel line as you pass the pylon mount. YOu'll have a better feel for where the side is once you get some of the foam out.  Foam removal worked really well using a hand driven sheet rock saw, and a trenching shovel. I did my floor cutting in the garage, but I used visqueen as a "booth" around the boat. I was happy with the way that worked, but will probably grind the bilge outside since it is starting to be less rainy. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-22-2013 at 12:33am
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I still don't get it Pete. How is a sides to side level on the stringers any less level than a side to side level on the gunnel? ------------- |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: March-22-2013 at 2:21pm
I think this is what Pete is saying. If you were to use an actual level in this situation to make sure your stringers were the correct height, you would end up with poor results. If you assume the old floor was a good level reference, then this method would work. ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: March-22-2013 at 3:24pm
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Okay ~~~ My floor has separated from on the starboard side for most of the way down the boat, so I don't think the floor is a good reference point to determine whether or not the boat is level in this situation. Am I wrong? More pressing matters: 1. What is the best way to remove wires running to the speed sensors, or does it matter? I've taken them out of their brackets, but I was wondering if I should unscrew the wire that runs from the panel to the top of the sensor, or the wire that runs from the bottom of the sensor and out of the boat? Again, I'm not sure it matters, but I thought I'd ask. ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: March-22-2013 at 4:08pm
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There should be a lip of fiberglass where the floor was glassed to the side even it the floor fell off. That will have to ground off it pretty solid. There isn't anything level or straight in a boat, the more you look and measure the more you realize this. The straight edge is about the only way your going to get everything back close to where it was. As for the foam removal, figure it's going to be 3 or 4 times the size of the space it came out of, many many trash cans full of foam and junk. I had good luck with a pic and a shovel geting fairly large pieces. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: March-22-2013 at 5:02pm
Well, I was able to figure out which speed sensor was unoperational afterall. Then I got tired of fooling with the rudder, and decided to start cutting. The framing blade is the way to go on the circular saw. It made quick work of the fiberglass floor, and now I can see why my seat had a soft spot behind it (as well as in front of the ski pole). The foam staring at where the motor would sit, is soaking wet ~ even on top  BTW, my plan to mark the floor was to take measurements (every 6 inches or so) using a top down approach. Hopefully this is sound, as the "floor lip just came right off ~ like I said before, it wasn't attached in the first place. Best, J ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-22-2013 at 9:34pm
Craig, That's for the picture and explanation. It's exactly what I was trying to say. Now, maybe HW will understand!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: March-25-2013 at 12:39am
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I've started foam removal. I'm attacking the port side with a hand held mini~pick. I've got all of the foam removed on the port side from the beginning of the secondary stringer to about half way between the motor mounts. My thought was to "free up the port side secondary stringer by removing all the foam on that side. Then get my measurements and remove and replace that stringer. Then move to the port side main stringer doing the same thing ~ so that I move across the boat from left to right ~~~~ stringer by stringer until I'm done. Is this a sound approach, or would a different plan be in order? ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: March-26-2013 at 10:06am
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Well, from the silence I figured I was doing something wrong, so I kept up with foam removal. My concern is the starboard side, where there is no floor lip as it was separated from the hull, before I started the project. I initially took measurements, but was also thinking of marking the line with a grease pencil. Before I do it, is there a reason this might be considered a 'bad' idea? Best, J ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: March-26-2013 at 10:20am
| Keep at it your doing fine. As long a s you know where the stringers need to be you won't have a problem wit where the floor goes. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-26-2013 at 11:00am
Im with HW- I still dont get it. The remnants of the old floor are an "ok" way of judging level after the boat is gutted, but side to side, the gunnels are probably closer. Prior to gutting the boat (which is what is being discussed above), measuring level from the old stringers would be even better. The floor height/location is more of a resultant dimension than a driving one, especially all the way out at the edges. Ive seen original floors off by 1/2 - 1" (variation side to side) at this location. ------------- |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: March-26-2013 at 1:13pm
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I agree with what you're saying Tim. I was just putting pictures to Pete's words. It's also why I said "assuming the floor was a good reference point..." ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-27-2013 at 1:22pm
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Ok Craig your picture makes perfect sense but that is clearly not what the OP did. He layed a level across his old stringers and adjusted the boat until it was even. So if that's really what Pete meant by your picture, I still dot know why he'd even be making up such a scenario. ------------- |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: March-28-2013 at 10:15am
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Mark where your separated floor was with a big sharpie. Then remember not to grind it off. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: March-28-2013 at 12:01pm
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I am still a big fan of grinding out all the floor, and half the stringers. Bring in the boat, level it with an 8ft level across the gunwales. Replace the two stringers by transferring across from the two I left, take back outside finish grinding out the last two stringers, return, relevel, repeat. Stringer location is important, floor location as mentioned above isnt so important, in fact it should be pitched a little towards the bilge so measuring accross the two sides as a way to locate the stringers is a bit sketchy ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-28-2013 at 2:45pm
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Agree with joe but I don't like the more complicated logistics of grinding/new stringer/grinding/new stringer, as I grind outside and glass inside. If you grind and glass in the same spot and can avoid bracing the hull multiple times, you're golden. I won't grind in the garage though, so I measure everything, remove/grind outside, then bring it indoors, brace it and glass. ------------- |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: March-28-2013 at 7:52pm
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Hi, I did a 86 and used a piece of aluminum across the gunnels and leveled it. Then used the straight edge to measure down. And kinda drew a picture on the aluminum. Luckily the stringers came out good. But always nice to have back up. I think it is very important to measure down. Orginal stringers in my boat were off by almost 1/2 Thanks mike ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: March-30-2013 at 12:12am
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So, I'm mostly done with the tear down process. The cavity underneath the batter box was a disaster. It was soaking wet, and covered in some sort of black crud ~~~ I guess it's oil.  In addition to the spots under the battery box, nearly all of the foam was soaking wet, and water was literally standing in many places I removed foam from. I suspect that water is getting in my boat from the bottom side. I went underneath, and took some photos. In one of them, you can see a patch ~~~and a place beside the patch where fiberglass is showing.    There is another spot that is suspect also (even larger, but it was impossible to get a descent picture of. I've got a couple of questions: 1. How do I free up the secondary stringer without cutting the hull out of the back of the boat? It's a tight fit back there.  2. Does anyone have any recommendations as to the best tool to remove the floor underneath the dash (including the air intake box)? 3. I did some grinding in the starboard aft corner to get the rest of the floor up back there. Does anyone have a better idea for the port aft corner? Here's a final picture of my boat in my new boat barn. You can see that there is still some work to do on the barn.  ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-30-2013 at 7:48am
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Jonathan, You are just going to have to do more cutting, digging and grinding being careful when you see hull glass. A diamond blade in a 4' grinder and a sawsall will get you into the tight places. The stringers when free under the bow will slide forward away from the transom. I recommend removing all the blocking wood on the transom anyway. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-01-2013 at 12:04pm
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This has been typical for my boat so far. In a post somewhere, I read that the "correct craft employees were a bunch of untrained chimps with axes" ~~~~ I got a chuckle out of it, but now I'm seeing that the statement was closer to the truth. Here, you'll see "zero" fiberglass protecting the main stringer leading into the the air box underneath the dash.  I was unable to preserve the air intake box. Underneath the box was solid foam, and I had to cut it into about 5 pieces to get it free. Once I get the foam cleaned out, I guess it's time to start grinding the floor and trying to free up stringers. I'm not missing a step am I? ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-01-2013 at 8:22pm
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Now that the floor and foam is gone, the Grinding begins (tomorrow). I've been taking some measurements, but just to be on the safe side could you list the most important (as I would hate to miss one, and something not be "right" on reassembly.  ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-01-2013 at 8:30pm
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Engine mount location is the most critical. So, stringer height in the cradle area, as well as fore/aft placement is the main thing you need to be concerned with. If youre not removing the pylon cup and can use that as a locating feature when reinstalling, thats a big help. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-01-2013 at 9:15pm
You've never had the pleasure of restoring one of their wood boats! They did not use axes - they used FINISHING axes! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-01-2013 at 11:22pm
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I went and measured. I think I'll measure again tomorrow. While I was out there, the angle grinder started calling my name, and I found myself back in my respirator and hazmat suit. I attacked the tops of the main stringers ~ (aft the engine compartment) for no particular reason. It went fast. I took the gel coat off, and went down to the fiberglass, then stopped. Then I decided to try the bilge. The experience with the bilge didn't work so well because the safety guard was in the way. Then it occurred to me that there might be a difference between an "angle grinder" and a "regular grinder." This is what I have: Ryobi 4.5 inch Angle Grinder"  I read through the manual, and it said, "This grinder will not accept a cutting blade, and should not be used for cutting purposes." Have I bought the wrong tool? ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-01-2013 at 11:29pm
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The manual was approved by the legal dept. If you do use it with a reinforced abrasive blade, don't stand in the plane of rotation. Also make sure it is rated for the RPM. Not that I am suggesting using that! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: cphase
Date Posted: April-01-2013 at 11:40pm
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The guard is to keep the manual from getting caught in it. ------------- Thanks, Jeff http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6549" rel="nofollow - 82 SN http://www.archlinux.org" rel="nofollow - Arch Linux |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-02-2013 at 6:58am
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I agree that the manual was written for OSHA. Get the diamond blade in it and remove the guard. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-02-2013 at 12:39pm
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Woah, I definitely do NOT suggest removing the guard. I cannot believe anyone here would suggest doing that, especially Pete. If its truly in the way (it shouldnt be) find different tool. ------------- |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-03-2013 at 7:32pm
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Okay! I'm grinding the gelcoat in the bilge ~ I found a grinding blade that fits, and did not require me to take the guard off. Grinding IS dusty. My shop vac went on strike after just a few hours, so I had to get a replacement. The store graciously comp'd the replacement (as it was only a couple days old). Question: How deep do you go? Basically I'm removing the gelcoat, until everything is that flesh color. BTW, that color kind of reminds me of a venison tenderloin ~ I think I have located 2 repairs (at the drain plug and where the prop shaft exits the boat). There were "box" shaped patches around each of these areas. They were not covered in gelcoat, but some sort of paint. Further, when I got down to the fiberglass where the prop shaft exits, I think I found a "crack" running through the glass ~~~~~ I hope I'm mistaken, but I wasn't quite sure because of all of the dust. I'll go and vacuum and check it again. Then I'll post a picture for your inspection. Best, J ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-03-2013 at 8:59pm
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Grind down until you just hit some glass. Pictures would be great of the area you think were repaired. Cheap shop vacs from the hardware or home centers are not meant to be run for long times. They do NOT have a 100% duty cycle. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-03-2013 at 9:24pm
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Jonathan - I ran into some very fine cracks around the strut mounting area - I found them because I was wiping the area out with mineral spirits (Paint thinner). The solvent wicked into the cracks & made them stand out. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-03-2013 at 9:35pm
It might not be a problem with duty cycle,it might just be eating all that glass dust that did it in. I had a cheap one years ago my wife won in a sales contest.It had a metal bottom, made alot of noise and I hated it. I even took the filters out,ran a hose out the window and used it to "pump" drywall dust outside when I was done sanding.Then when I got my blast cabinet I used it on that for awhile.I finally just thru it out.I think when Vondy did his boat he used one of http://www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD.asp?item_no=AXD000004&CatId=%7b6EE79B16-EB63-43E7-8F30-1E06240A24A4%7d" rel="nofollow - these. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-03-2013 at 10:13pm
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Gary, Last month we finished epoxy painting about 100,000 sq. ft. of floor at the new plant. Part of the process involved degreasing/cleaning and an acid etch. It was all vacuumed up so we tested out a few shop vacs. Some were lasting less than one day. One brand was Shop Vac and we finally heard direct from them that they do not have the duty cycle for continuous use. We finally ended up after I'd say 15 cheap vacs a Milwaukee for about $800.00!!!BTW, my old vac that sits on top of the metal bucket on wheels is still running! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-04-2013 at 1:10am
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Running it too long ~~~~ That's probably what messed my vac up ~~~ it ran for about 2 hours straight. It was working fine until I turned it off to clean out the filter..... I read the warranty information of the replacement. It seems that there is a 60 day replacement warranty. Looks like I might be going through a few of them...... Okay, I went back and tried to get a picture of the believed to be damaged & then replaced area. It was very difficult to see in the one area that was still left, so I think it would be better to "describe" it. Around the drain plug, instead of gelcoat, there was some sort of grey paint. The separating line between the gelcoat and the paint was a perfect line, and nearly the exact same color. This was also the case on the through hole for the drive shaft. The area around it was very uneven, and I had to spend a bit of time grinding around there to get the peaks and valleys out of it. Water used to sit back there all the time before. By the way, I was at Bill's Boatworks page, and saw this picture.  I'm most interested in the old stringer. It has writing on it every few inches. It looks like he was measuring something, but I'm not sure what the numbers represent? It might be the distance from the stern, but I'm not sure. As for my progress, I have sanded the bilge from the drain plug to the cross plank tie in of the main stringers. I guess I'm a little over half way done. I went to Jamestown's website with the idea of beginning to build a materials list. Is CPES really $799 for a 10 gallon kit? Holy Cow! What's in it? Rhino Horns, and gold bullion? ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-04-2013 at 9:04am
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Jonathan, What you may be seeing with the "box shaped patches" is a resin bedding used around hull holes. Again, can you post some pictures? Yes, the CPES is expensive but I don't feel you will need 10 gallons. A couple coats on most wood surfaces is fine with several more on the end grain. Keep in mind that you will be using epoxy resin on top of it. Start with a gallon or 2 and I'd say that will do the job. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-04-2013 at 10:00am
| I bought the 2 gallon kit(1 gallon each part) and had plenty left over. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-04-2013 at 10:46am
Unfortunately, it's too late for pictures, as I grinded out the areas where the patches were. On the positive side, the fiberglass looks the same underneath, so I guess it's all good. As to my materials list, I am thankful I will not be needing the 10 gallon kit! ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-04-2013 at 11:45am
|
You also have the option to make some home brew CPES. Its basically a glorified epoxy resin with some solvents in it to thin it out for better absorption. When the solvents flash off, youre left with just the epoxy. I cant see spending way more for CPES since theyre just taking epoxy resin and diluting it with cheaper, commonly available solvents. Theres a link on here somewhere on the best materials and ratios... I believe xylene was the preferred solvent. ------------- |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-04-2013 at 3:46pm
Yes, I found that link last night, and was reading all about it. That was going to be my plan of action if I needed 10 - 12 gallons, but if I only need 2 gallons ~ it doesn't seem as quite as bad by comparison (still $174 for 2 gallons though). I'm certainly going to give it some consideration. ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-04-2013 at 6:53pm
|
Today = Massive Fail! Home Depot ` bought a different type of grinding wheel, it was terrible. So I spent 25 on the wheel, can't take it back, and need to go back to Home Depot to get the right kind, and spend more money. As an alternative progression, I figured I would remove the cables attached to the throttle control, and the electrical harness. Fail also. I saw the cotter pin, removed it, but could not free the cable. No idea what is connecting the push/pull knob (that puts it in or takes it out of gear)..... So I put the cotter pin back in, and move on. I decided to take measurements. Went and got my notebook to discover that it got rained on..... found a dry sheet. Drew a picture, and took measurements of the starboard side. Figured I was screwing it up, so I took a nap. Two hours later, I decided I didn't really need measurements to remove a secondary stringer. The easiest one to get out is the Driver's side ~ but it is the most corroded. Also there is no floor tab on that side (because the floor was completely separated from the hull on that side ~ except for the back 18 inches or so). So I figured the port side secondary stringer was the way to go.... Of course it's "buried in deeper than an Alabama Tick" (anyone pick up on the Predator reference?), and I have no idea how to start trying to remove it ~~~~so sat in the empty hull for another hour, vacuumed (I've discovered it's my default activity when I am lost). took a few pictures and came inside to vent on the thread. The only positive I can discern for today: I did buy some plastic to keep the dust contained around the boat. I stapled it in place with my staple gun. So far, it is holding. Pictures: I was in fact able to get two shots of the suspected patch   Here is some strange fiberglass in between the secondary stringers and the sidewall. There are several places like this. You can literally pull on the fibers.  I have come to the conclusion that I have no idea how to proceed once I finish sanding the gelcoat off the bilge. Best, J ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 10:42am
| I hate those nights, but they happen. It's hard to figure out what your doing when you've never done it before. This place is great for advice, but this is hands on stuff and you have to do it to really understand it. Don't forget that you learn from mistakes, chalk it up as a learning experience and try again this weekend. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 10:57am
|
The pylon receptacle and the hull log have been covered in gray gel rather than splattered like the rest of the bilge on several boats I've torn down. I believe what you're seeing is normal. Get the pylon out, cradle out and pull all your cables and wire harnesses before going any further. ------------- |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 11:29am
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Tim beat me to it as I was typing. The way I would proceed if I were you and I just did an '85 a couple years ago is... First get everything out of the way, disconnect the steering cable and remove. The shift cables will flex enough to put out over the bow. Unplug the wiring harness from behind the dash and remove. Remove the ski pole and engine cradle.(keep cradle close as you will be putting it in and out 1,000 times as reference as you progress along) Now what I did is removed "ONE" side at a time that way you can use the existing stringers to level and measure from. To cut out the stringers, take your grinder with the masonry diamond blade and cut the fiberglass coating along the bottom about a 1/4" above the floor on both sides. Then cut the fiberglass off the top of stringer. I was able to then take a pry-bar to strip the glass off the wet wood leaving just the wood stringer.Now with that exposed you can work at removing the wood. Here's a pic of mine with one side removed  Here is one side in and I used the old the original grooves to bed in the new stringers.  |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 1:40pm
TX ~ Thanks for the encouragement. Yesterday was just a bad day all around.... it was about 50 degrees and raining to boot. Today it is sunny, so I'm more optimistic, and will press on. ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 1:46pm
|
@ TRBenj & gun-driver Now I've got a plan of attack ~ thank you! Also to gun-driver ~ Did you come back in with foam on your 85 ~~~ From the supports between the secondary and outside wall I think the answer is no. If so, this is also the route I want to go. ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 3:27pm
|
No foam. Some of the other things I did is once I got my stringers shaped, fitted and coated with CPES I applied 2 coats of glass 1 stranded 1 woven before bedding them in. I also cut a hole in the top of the air-box and hollowed out the foam then after running the conduit and air vent hose I made a removable lid that way if I ever need to get back in there for service I can just remove the lid and have access to all my hose and wiring. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 3:32pm
Cradle & Cable removal accomplished! So, I guess I'll remove the rest of the gelcoat, vacuum, remeasure, and then start prying up a stringer ~~~~ ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 3:40pm
|
I wouldnt bother grinding off the gel until your stringers are out and all the glass use to hold them down has been removed. You'll have a better picture of what needs to be ground once thats done. Id tackle that first. ------------- |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 6:51pm
That sounds awesome! Did you keep a CCF thread? If so, could you post the link, as I'd love to follow it as a template! ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-05-2013 at 6:53pm
Thanks for the advice! I'm headed in that direction! ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-06-2013 at 7:29pm
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I've got 2/3 of the Starboard Secondary Stringer out, but the remaining 1/3 will not budge. It is sealed firmly to the hull. Is there a magic trick I should know, or do I just keep grinding? Any other suggestions?  ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-06-2013 at 7:40pm
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Have you tried a BFH yet? ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-06-2013 at 7:50pm
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lol ~~~~ No haven't tried a Big Fat Hammer, and I even have a sledge hammer. I have tried a hand held pick, but the part that is remaining does not have a "lip" to get under, so it's ineffective also. ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-06-2013 at 8:28pm
|
That's a tight area between the primary and secondary to grind out. Try getting close to the bottom and cut the glass off the side of one. BTW, you may know but the F in BFH doesn't stand for "fat"!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-06-2013 at 8:50pm
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Jonathan - Got a hole saw or boring bit? You could bore a hole & create a pry point for your pick. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-06-2013 at 8:51pm
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Jonathan - Got a hole saw or spade bit? You could bore a hole & create a pry point. Or notch then end if you don't have room for the drill. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-06-2013 at 11:44pm
| You need to slice the glass on both sides as close to the bottom as possible. Then you will be able to get it to release from the hull. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-07-2013 at 1:13am
|
I did get it with the BFS (Big FAT Sledge) ~~~~ (and I know that the "F" doesn't stand for "Fat" and that it stands for "freakin'" ~~~ lol I had cut the groove in the fiberglass, but once I got it out, I was able to see that they had glued the back couple of feet to the hull, so it was not going to just lift out nicely. It came out in 3 pieces. The rot was at the front (where it had delaminated from the single piece of fiberglass, and separated from the hull bottom). There was also rot on the "add ins" (where the extra pieces of wood are attached to build up the middle section by the engine compartment). BTW, none of those extra pieces of wood had been treated with anything, and were simply nailed into place. The main stringer at the back was clearly coated with something to seal it, and it was fine for the most part. Tomorrow after church, I hope to begin making a template for the replacement stringer out of some empty boxes. At every setback, my wife says, "Why don't you just 'pay the man' to fix it." I really want to learn this new skill, and impress her. Conceeding is not an option, so thanks for all of your input. BTW: A friend of mine has a "Scout 185." It has a gelcoat floor. This has intrigued me, as I never really liked the carpet ~ as it hold water when it gets wet. Has anyone ever come back with a replacement floor without using carpet? ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: April-07-2013 at 12:01pm
| They do it with the new boats, but you need something to go over it or to give it texture or it would be slippery. I have a couple of ideas, and it seems like there are more floor coverings available every year, of course nothing is quite as cheap as carpet. |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: April-07-2013 at 3:05pm
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My '79 is gelcoat with nonskid added. The edges are taped off as bright lines. Its kind of a three step process if you want edges nice. As I had to raise the motor box with a curb to fit that fire breathing Chevy underneath I also added limber holes to the curb to allow better and faster deck water drainage. When she get home from the welder I could take a pic or two if needed. I went that route because we ride in salt and our beaches have actual real genuine sand. Add a dog to the mix and carpet becomes a bad idea pretty quick. Good luck with the boat. BTW those cheep Tyvek suits are worth their weight in gold. Also do you know the box fan with the AC filter dust management trick? These are valuable at your present stage of work. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-08-2013 at 1:21am
I would LOVE to see some pictures of the floor of your boat, and a general description of the steps you took to get there. I'm on my second TVEK suit ~ they are worth the money. Unfortunately, I know nothing of the box fan dust management trick you alluded to..... I need enlightenment! BTW, bought my CPES from Jamestown ~~~~ $225 with shipping. I'm putting my US Composites list also. Taxes are due next week.... Not good timing. ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-08-2013 at 7:21am
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I've used the box fan trick when spray painting in the garage. You put the fan in one window to exhaust and crack open an opposite window. I don't bother with the furnace filter to protect the fan. It's old and just gets some overspray on it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-08-2013 at 12:08pm
I will keep that in mind! ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-12-2013 at 1:16am
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So, I've got the wood for my secondary stringers, and have my template made for the starboard side. I was wondering ~ if I could simply flip the template to get a template for the port side secondary stringer. It seems like it would work, and I could replace the secondary stingers on both sides, and then the primary stringers afterwards. Thoughts? ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-12-2013 at 7:51am
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Jonathan, Yes, the stringers are a mirror image but leave extra material on the bottom so you'll have enough to scribe them to match the hull and match the elevation. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-12-2013 at 12:55pm
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One last question on the secondary stringers for now ~~~~~ With the understanding that I'm going back in without foam ~~~~ Do you need to somehow bridge the gap where the foam was between the two main pieces of the secondary stringers? If the answer is "no, it does not needs to be filled" ~ I will leave it "empty" ~ If it needs to be filled the easiest way would seem to be to use a 1x6, and make the stringer that much beefier ~~~~ The only problem is that the foam gap is too large for a 1x6, and 2 small for a 2x6. Since it seems that foam is less of a structural thing, might it be okay to use a 2x6s to fill the gap (and be a little be over in the width)? ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-12-2013 at 4:35pm
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http://www.harborfreight.com/3-1-4-quarter-inch-electric-planer-91062.html" rel="nofollow - Is this the recommended Power Planer from HF? ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-12-2013 at 4:43pm
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I can't speak to that one .. I have http://www.harborfreight.com/3-1-4-quarter-inch-electric-planer-95838.html" rel="nofollow - This one and for what it is, it does a reasonable job. I have thrown a fair amount of wood through it and it is still kicking. Havent attempted fiberglass or gel though. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-12-2013 at 4:59pm
Cool! I'll get that one then! ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-12-2013 at 5:09pm
I have the same one as Joe but bought it at Menards for about $25 more before we had a Harbor Freight close by  Works good though,it's a Tool Shop brand,they must build for everyone and just change the decals------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-12-2013 at 9:28pm
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I believe your talking about the rear part between the primaries and the secondaries. I planed wood down (I believe it's 1")to fill the gap. I also planed and filled with wood up by the motor. http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/85%20boat%20rebuild/85rebuild019.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> 
|
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: April-13-2013 at 4:29pm
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CPES ~~~~~ They should sell these kits with "pumps" ~~~ That stuff is wayyyyyyyy too expensive to spill on your garage floor. ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-13-2013 at 5:26pm
Johnathan, I'm sorry but I don't really believe in anything HF sells. It's all Asian import and will not last. I consider their tools "throw-a-ways". Use them, it quits and then open the garbage can! The tools I buy I consider top of the line, have lasted my life so far and I have never thrown one away. My power hand planer is an older model but http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/porter-cable/porter-cable-6-0-amp-hand-planer" rel="nofollow - here's the current version. My Porter Cable belt sander is close to 43 years old. Still going strong with only a new set of brushes in it.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-13-2013 at 5:29pm
Pumps are very useful when mix ratio is critical. With the CPES you can just go by eye with side by side levels in two same size containers. Go with a "home brew" next time. The only problem with that is finding some of the solvents. The DEA thinks you have a Meth lab in your basement!! BTW, I've spilled even with pumps on the epoxy resin/hardener! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: May-06-2013 at 10:54am
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Okay ~~~~ Well after a 2 week layoff, I'm hoping to get cracking again. My goal is to have this thing done in a month. My starboard side secondary stringer is nearly cut to spec ~~~~ I've put a 4 foot level on it, and it is just slightly high in a few places. A bit of grinding and some more applications of CPES, and it'll be ready to be "set in place." All I have ordered so far is my CPES, so I'm hoping to complete my list of needed items from US Composites today. Here's what I've got so far. This is far from a complete list. 1/32 Milled Fiber SM-MF050 (15 qt)~~~~~~~~~~~~~~82.80 10 Oz E Glass FG3C1038 38" by 25 yds 5.40/ yd~~135.00 10 Gal Thin Epox in 3-1 ratio EPOX 633317 ~~~~~548.00 2 Gal Thin Epox in 3-1 ratio EPOX 635315 ~~~~~~128.00 3-1 Ratio Pumps~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~6.75 10" Fiberglass Cutting Scissors WISS - 101 ~~~~~31.25 Aerosil-Cabosil FL-AER400 4 Gal ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~22.50 12" Stir Sticks (50 per pack)GLV-PS050~~~~~~~~~~~3.95 4" Plastic Squeeges SQ-04 5 count ~~~~~~~~~~~~~2.50 Red Glasskoter Roller RF-101F3B (3" Box of 36)~~51.00 Total:~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~1,011.75 Okay, keep in mind that I will not be using foam in my rebuild. What am I missing? One other point: there is a West Marine about 20 minutes from my house. My plan was to get the bulk of my order from US Composites, and round out anything else from West ~~~ West is high on expense, but convenient... ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-06-2013 at 11:01am
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Looks awefully light on glass... were you planning to do everything with 10oz cloth? That will take a long time (many layers) to build up. I would recommend adding tapes to the list so youre not cutting that 38" roll into 2", 4" and 8" strips. Glass does not cut nicely, even with proper tools. I would add a bunch of mat and biax to the list as well. 12gal of epoxy *might* be enough. I dont see it covered where you discuss your plans for the layup... might want to post that for us to pick apart before you attempt to make a material list. Remind us of your structural plans as well- stringer material, foam, floor, etc. ------------- |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: May-06-2013 at 11:51am
I've never really been much of a detail planner ~~~~ lol In broad brush strokes here is my rebuild concept: * No foam in the rebuild * Stingers are Fir for the Primary, and Pine for the secondary. * Since I was not using foam on the rebuild, I was going to run lateral supports from the Secondary Stringer to the hull. Someone posted a picture of their boat on this thread where they had done this also. * The floor is to be a wood with gelcoat top (as opposed to carpet). I'm trying to follow BillsBoatworks with regard to specifics as to how he treated his stringers (lamination, bonding, etc.). I didn't see any fiberglass tape on US Composites Website, but I see it now in the Mat section. That said, I only see it in 4", 8" and 12 inch widths (No 2" widths). Is that okay for building up? Also, should I add to my 10oz cloth? ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-06-2013 at 12:12pm
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Youre looking at mat tape, not cloth tape. Check the bottom of the http://uscomposites.com/cloth.html" rel="nofollow - cloth section. In addition to the ribs between the secondaries and hull, you'll probably want a few between the mains and secondaries (forward of the exhaust pockets and a bulkhead or 2 in front of the bilge... so factor those in. I would be glassing both sides of all plywood panels (floor, bulkheads, ribs, etc) in addition to the CPES and taping them into place. On the floor, I'd add some mat to the top side as well for impact resistance. Dont forget that you'll be taping the floor boards at the seams, as well as to the stringers and to the hull walls. As far as the layup goes on the stringers, there are several different ways that Ive seen it done. Personally, I like to get a bunch of layers of increasingly wider cloth on them, then follow up with either biax or mat up the sides, as well as over the tops of the mains. Ive done alternating layers of mat and cloth in the past, but going subsequent layers of glass over the thicker materials (mat or biax) is sort of a pain, as air bubbles are easily trapped at the (thicker) transitions. ------------- |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: May-06-2013 at 2:07pm
Alright ~~~ I like what I'm learning here. Thanks! Taking your advice I'll add to my glass order (I do see the tape also). Relative to the epoxy, the fiberglass is not all that expensive) so I guess it is better to error on the side of "more." I'll get my final first order posted soon.... Best, J ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: May-06-2013 at 2:44pm
|
I'm not sure where I heard this, but a liquid ounce of epoxy wets out an ounce of fiberglass when you're doing it by hand. A small cheap kitchen scale is a great tool, I weight all the cloth once it's cut and then measure out the epoxy. At first you probably want to up the epoxy a little, but once you get the process you can get very close to that number. The other thing you're missing is most everything that gets epoxy on it goes in the trash. Lots of plastic scrapers, cheap paint brushes, latex gloves and mixing sticks and cups. The only thing I've found worth cleaning is the fiberglass roller. I don't think many people realize it, but there's a lot more than just some epoxy and some cloth. Get all the disposable stuff local and as cheap as you can. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: May-06-2013 at 3:12pm
|
Okay ~~~ here's my beefed up order Fiberglass & Filler Aerosil-Cabosil FL-AER400 4 Gal ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~22.50 1/32 Milled Fiber SM-MF050 (15 qt)~~~~~~~~~~~~~~82.80 (to set stringers in place) 10 Oz E Glass FG3C1038 38" by 25 yds 5.40/ yd~~135.00 50 yds of tape in 2", 4" and 8" inch rolls ~~~~107.15 (3 rolls ~ 50 yds each) DBM 1208 Bixal (I'm assuming DBM 1208)~~~~~~~~~ 77.50 (50" 10 yds) Epoxy (I conceed I'll need more at some point) 10 Gal Thin Epox in 3-1 ratio EPOX 633317 ~~~~~548.00 2 Gal Thin Epox in 3-1 ratio EPOX 635315 ~~~~~~128.00 3-1 Ratio Pumps~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~6.75 10" Fiberglass Cutting Scissors WISS - 101 ~~~~~31.25 Misc: 12" Stir Sticks (50 per pack)GLV-PS050~~~~~~~~~~~3.95 4" Plastic Squeeges SQ-04 5 count ~~~~~~~~~~~~~2.50 Red Glasskoter Roller RF-101F3B (3" Box of 36)~~51.00 Total:~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~1,192.15 ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: May-06-2013 at 3:19pm
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Tim (or anyone), Is there a thread with pictures or a drawing that shows the layup you are discussing. ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: May-06-2013 at 3:48pm
|
It was Gun-Driver's layup ~~~ page 2 of this thread (at the bottom) there is a picture of Gun Driver's boat with the starboard side stringers completed). I wish I could simply follow Gun-Driver's thread step by step it's here: (http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13341&KW=&title=and-so-it-begins), but none of his pictures are active anymore, so you can't really see what he did. ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-06-2013 at 4:09pm
|
There are plenty of stringer threads that show the stringers fully glassed in... but not any that I can think of that fully illustrate the layup very well. It doesnt really lend itself well to pictures. Re: disposable items- solo cups work great for small layups where youre using the pumps. For larger layups (pouring resin), the cups with marked graduations are nice. About the same price from Home Depot as USComposites. Disposable gloves and cheap brushes are available from Harbor Freight. You will use a LOT of them. ------------- |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: May-06-2013 at 4:38pm
Is it something like this? ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |