seeking a high gloss shine
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29246
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 7:48am
Topic: seeking a high gloss shine
Posted By: Swatkinz
Subject: seeking a high gloss shine
Date Posted: March-16-2013 at 6:37pm
Hey guys, I've spent the day working on my gelcoat. Arms feel like jelly.
Decided to replace my decals and when I pulled off the old ones, there was significant oxidation "ghosting" in the gel. Rubbing compound wouldn't even make a dent in removing it so I started wetsanding. So far, I've made a pass with 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 3000 grit paper. I then applied a West Marine marine polish (by hand). While the gel is free of oxidation and the ghosting is 99% gone (good enough for me), the gel still duller than I'd like.
I want the gel to pop. Really want a mirror finish. Other wetsanding threads reference the 3M products and some mention an orbital buffer. Are the 3M products that much better? Is the buffer a necessity to getting the shine I want?
------------- Steve 2011 Sport/Air 200 Excalibur 343 2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer
Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs)
Former Malibu owner (07, 09)
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Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-16-2013 at 7:11pm
I would use a rotary buffer. The surface speed is what creates the heat to make the polish work. the orbital doesn't move fast enough.
I use a wool pad, mainly because i have about 4 of them.
Others prefer a foam pad.
------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-16-2013 at 7:17pm
Some 3M products recommend the foam pad and since I didn't have any at all I got their waffle pads.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport
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Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: March-16-2013 at 7:24pm
I just went through the process. You have to do all the steps...We wet sanded as you did, buffed 3 X with 3M heavy duty, 3X with Med 3M and then with Finess. Then clean with alcohol and apply decals. Let cure in sun a few days then wax.
------------- Thanks.......Tom
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Posted By: audiodude
Date Posted: March-16-2013 at 10:34pm
I used Presta Ultra Cutting Creme, then Presta Chroma and waxed with collinite 885 fleet wax. Used wool pad for the cutting creme, foam pad for Chroma with a rotary buffer and hand waxed. The boat looks pretty good but I know wet sanding is in my future.
------------- 2000 Ski Nautique 1989 Correct Craft 2001
In the words of Milton Berle: "You can lead a man to Congress but you can't make him think"
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Posted By: Waternut
Date Posted: March-17-2013 at 2:24am
I'm sure some people will not like this answer but here goes anyway...
Gelcoat has always been an nuisance for me. If you don't stay on top of it, it gets powdery. So the only option was to buff it at least once a year. If it gets too far, I was wet sanding and buffing. When that's done, then it's time to clean the inside of the boat thanks to all the splatter.
I gave up about 1.5 years ago. Sanded the hull once and painted it. The paint has held up great, I've barely even touched it, and it still looks shiney and new... This is despite having left it uncovered all summer long where it never see's shade.
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Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: March-17-2013 at 4:31am
You were doing something wrong if it didn't stay looking good after a wetsanding and polishing. Either you didn't go far enough with the sanding, or you didn't take care of it afterwards.
The 3M stuff with their matching pads is pretty foolproof and works much quicker than trying to do it with wool pads. I wetsanded my blue stripe last year and its amazing what just getting rid of the orange peal does for the shine. New stripes coming this year so I'll get the orange peal out of silver cloud below the rub rail this year.
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-17-2013 at 1:15pm
Swatkinz wrote:
I want the gel to pop. Really want a mirror finish. Other wetsanding threads reference the 3M products and some mention an orbital buffer. Are the 3M products that much better? Is the buffer a necessity to getting the shine I want? | Short answer: you're not going to restore the shine by hand, you need a machine. An orbital might get you there since you sanded so far up (normally you'd only have to go to 1000-1200 if using a real aggressive compound and a rotary buffer)... But that's tbd. A rotary is much more aggressive, which is a plus when working on gel... It's much harder an thicker than paint. The 3m products are very good and will produce proven results that are detailed in the common questions forum. There are other ways to skin a cat, but you may be on your own in figuring out how to get what you want using products that we aren't familiar with.
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Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: March-17-2013 at 4:49pm
I know the factory uses 3M stuff and non rotary buffers I should have taken a picture of the container they were using for a final buff but figured I'd remember what it was. Needless to say I didn't. I'm pretty sure Tom nailed it when he said Finese. Sounds familiar and you know how they look right out of the factory.
------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-17-2013 at 6:38pm
There is no short cut thats for sure.I tried everything before too like using rubbing compound. Wasn't until I started sanding from 220 in spots to 2000 then using 3m 05973 rubbing compound and 05996 Perfect II,which I learned of here,that anything "took".
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport
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Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: March-17-2013 at 8:20pm
Rotary with 3 levels of 3M compounds:
------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com
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Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: March-17-2013 at 9:25pm
M3Fan wrote:
Rotary with 3 levels of 3M compounds:
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WOW!!!! That's on black, which reflects well, but that is incredible.
------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow
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Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: March-18-2013 at 11:23am
Joel, That's what's I'm looking for. Thanks for the help, guys.
------------- Steve 2011 Sport/Air 200 Excalibur 343 2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer
Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs)
Former Malibu owner (07, 09)
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-18-2013 at 1:48pm
Steve, FYI, Joel followed the suggestions I gave him on the products/pads/etc that I detailed in the for common questions forum. I know several people who have used this recipe and turned out some amazing results. Check out pictures of Brad's (Barracuda) '86 or the Hart's boats... theyve got it down to a science!
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Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: March-18-2013 at 2:19pm
All, If you complete your wetsanding with 2000 or 3000 grit paper like I did, does going over it with the 3M super duty compound not undo what you did with the fine paper? Hard to argue with results but dang that 3M SD is some gritty stuff
------------- Steve 2011 Sport/Air 200 Excalibur 343 2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer
Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs)
Former Malibu owner (07, 09)
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-18-2013 at 2:24pm
If youre sure that you got all of the scratches from previous rounds with the 2000 or 3000, then start with the middle step instead (medium grade compound) and see how it looks afterwards. If you dont see any larger scratches left, then proceed to the Finesse-It II.
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Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: March-18-2013 at 7:31pm
Steve,
Stop sanding and check those stringers by taking some deep core samples. There could be problems down under.
Donald
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Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: March-18-2013 at 8:05pm
Donald80SN wrote:
Steve,
Stop sanding and check those stringers by taking some deep core samples. There could be problems down under.
Donald |
Now Donald, be nice.... you know you gotta hide the rot inside by keeping it shiny outside! Isn't that what we all do? Even sometimes with our boats....
------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq
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Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: March-18-2013 at 8:31pm
Steve K,
Water could be coming in from inside the boat and going through the glass, resin and gel from the inside and causing the dull finish. Just trying to help.
Donald
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Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: November-17-2014 at 4:10pm
Gary S wrote:
There is no short cut thats for sure.I tried everything before too like using rubbing compound. Wasn't until I started sanding from 220 in spots to 2000 then using 3m 05973 rubbing compound and 05996 Perfect II,which I learned of here,that anything "took".
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This is an amazing transformation... Should give everyone hope that their gelcoat is incapable of being salvaged...
------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next.
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-17-2014 at 6:21pm
Holding the buffer up is far easier on the arms than sanding. Super Duty removes 1000 grit scratches. Two passes of 1000 or maybe a 1200 to be safe but no reason to go past that unless you are seeking an upper body workout.
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Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: November-20-2014 at 3:04pm
Hollywood wrote:
Holding the buffer up is far easier on the arms than sanding. Super Duty removes 1000 grit scratches. Two passes of 1000 or maybe a 1200 to be safe but no reason to go past that unless you are seeking an upper body workout. |
Hollywood ~~~ Would like to see a picture or link to the buffer your recommending if you get a chance.
------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next.
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-20-2014 at 3:15pm
Google image "rotary buffer"
I like the makitas
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-20-2014 at 4:48pm
Hollywood wrote:
Google image "rotary buffer"
I like the makitas | http://www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwaukee-5460-6-7-in--9-in--polisher-with-electronic-speed-control/miln5460-6,default,pd.html?start=7&cgid=milwaukee-sanders-and-polishers" rel="nofollow - I like the Milwaukee. Mine hasn't let me down yet.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: November-20-2014 at 4:52pm
I like the Milwaukee, BUT it's a tad fast and a tad heavy. I think the ideal speed is 1200 to 1500 rpm's my Milw. is 1700. I agree with H/W over 1000 gt. is a waste, let the compound do it.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-20-2014 at 6:34pm
DrCC wrote:
I like the Milwaukee, BUT it's a tad fast and a tad heavy. I think the ideal speed is 1200 to 1500 rpm's my Milw. is 1700. I agree with H/W over 1000 gt. is a waste, let the compound do it. | Al, Maybe you bought the cheapest Milwaukee? The one I linked And the one I have is: Operating Speed (RPM): 0 - 1,750 Yes, it is on the heavy side but that's due to it's HD construction.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: November-20-2014 at 6:50pm
And, It probably should be noted that four 60.00 machines Does Not equal one 240.00 machine.
Porter-Cable also makes a real good machine.
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Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: November-20-2014 at 7:01pm
Pete, I bought my Milwaukee probably before the variable speed was available. I've had it since the early to mid '80's, back then it was 180.00 So, it's really great to see the costs have not gone up that much. That's a lot of long lasting machine for 219.00
edit: and I didn't know that last line rhymed until now. I'm thinking: tag line.
________________ That's a lot of long lasting machine for 219.00
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-20-2014 at 7:33pm
Al, I don't know how you missed the variable speed. I bought mine in 85 to buff the varnish out on my Atom. It was the first bright job I buffed and knew I needed the real low speed. At least on a horizontal surface, they aren't that heavy!
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: November-20-2014 at 8:04pm
I use a Sioux http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/85285765?CS_010=85285765&item=85285765&CS_003=7867724&src=pla&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test" rel="nofollow - Air buffer A lot lighter, but you need a good air compressor..
btw, I did some "horse trading" to get mine.
There are also some less expensive ones out there that work fine as well.
.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier
62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: November-20-2014 at 8:45pm
I just picked up this porta cable orbital polisher from a detail supply friend of mine.
Haven't tried it out yet though.
------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-20-2014 at 9:47pm
JPASS wrote:
I just picked up this porta cable orbital polisher |
JP, How heavy is the oxidation you are trying to remove? Typically a RO will not take the place of a rotary.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: November-20-2014 at 10:32pm
There's no real oxidation on our boat. This polisher is to keep it nice and shiny. Polish once or twice a year and wax 3-4 times a year. depending on how she looks.
It will also come in handy for use on the family autos.
------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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Posted By: gpax
Date Posted: January-18-2015 at 12:57pm
I have a few questions as I'm about to undertake this on my 97 Sport Nautique.
I have bought the 3 3M products recommended. What pads should I buy for rotary and does anyone have a good place online to pick those up?
I plan on removing my decals. Any idea where I can get new ones. I've contacted my local dealer in Orlando but have received no response.
If I do need to wetsand is the process done by hand with just dipping the sandpaper in a bucket of water?
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-18-2015 at 1:23pm
It should tell you on the bottles what pads to use,white foam is for compound,black for polish and blue is for ultra polish . Don't go cheap on the sandpaper 3m once again is great,change it often. Doing it by hand will kill you but you won't make any mistakes,resist the urge to go with coarse paper,do a section with 1000 or 1200 and see how it goes if needed. If your boat is not bad the compounds will do fine.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport
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Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: January-18-2015 at 1:43pm
Truthfully I'd go to somebody/sponsor on here for the decals rather our lovely dealer.
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Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: January-20-2015 at 6:19pm
3M makes pads for each of the 3 compounds/polishes, there's a kit on Amazon that includes the polishes and the pads. Get some pad cleaner and clean up the pads when you're done and they'll last a long time, I've done the boat 2 times and 2 full size trucks and the pads are still looking good.
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: January-20-2015 at 6:21pm
I used foam pads on the BFN and it turned out good but it also started pretty decent. No sanding and I went right over the decals, pinstripe was removed prior to. I have wool pads for the Martinique, it's going to require a much more aggressive effort to shine that thing up.
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Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: January-20-2015 at 6:31pm
The last step of the 3M stuff will polish the decals, I wasn't brave enough to try anything more aggressive on them. It also does a pretty good job of minimizing the orange peel on a new vehicle if you're looking for something to do after you finish polishing the boat.
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: January-20-2015 at 6:38pm
TX Foilhead wrote:
minimizing the orange peel on a new vehicle |
I definitely don't have that problem.
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Posted By: 84SNautique
Date Posted: January-21-2015 at 10:23pm
I checked Amazon and there two polishing kits. One is around $26 and the other is $132. Which one are you referring to?
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Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: January-24-2015 at 11:13pm
Get the complete one with 3 bottles of polish and 3 pads.
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Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: January-25-2015 at 10:24am
I have a Dewalt rotary that seems to be a pretty nice piece. I am a fan of Dewalt anyhow. It lets you get down below 1000 rpms in speed I believe.
I've buffed 100s of cars over my time but only brought two boats back from wet sanded surfaces. I need to read up and start buying some products as the dash is the first spot on the docket to wet sand and buff. Deck will just receive a 2 or 3 state aggressive to final polish buff.
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