Really stubborn graphics
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29262
Printed Date: May-20-2024 at 8:50am
Topic: Really stubborn graphics
Posted By: Toothstud
Subject: Really stubborn graphics
Date Posted: March-18-2013 at 9:24pm
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I'm removing the graphics on my '88 nautique and had no problem with the lettering on the sides of the boat. However, when I got to the lettering on the transom, that was a whole different animal. I am currently using a pocket knife and blow dryer and moving at about a letter per hour. It seems really enveloped into the gel coat. The PO had it at his lake house for the past 19 years so I'm thinking the transom was exposed to the sun quite a bit. This is also where the boat has the most oxidation. I even tried a test of wet sanding w/ 600 sand paper but didn't do much but dull the surrounding gel. I'm going to wetsand most of the hull before I place the graphics I ordered from Zach so not I'm not worried about it.    Can anyone recommend any techniques or products that would expedite this process? |
Replies:
Posted By: mark c
Date Posted: March-18-2013 at 9:28pm
| The have rubber wheels that go on your drill or rotary polisher. They feel like the old pink rubber erasers, and are used for removing vinyl and pinstriping. Pick them up at an autobody supply house. They will remove the decals without doing anything to the finish. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-18-2013 at 9:29pm
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Try an eraser wheel, its a rotary "bit". I know 3M makes one. Mark beat me to it. Disclaimer, I've never seen it used in these hull decals, only the thinner deck ones. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-18-2013 at 9:46pm
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Those eraser wheels can take off anything. If you dwell too long you can burn the gel... But they're effective! ------------- |
Posted By: Toothstud
Date Posted: March-18-2013 at 10:19pm
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That looks perfect. I'm on my way to pick up one of those. Here's a video of it for future reference. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHKN5_UfDik" rel="nofollow - 3m Eraser wheel Here's another thing I ran into. It appears that the red gel coat has come off on this part of the design. I've never messed around with gel coat and have put it off. But now that i'm about to invest so much time on the gel, i may as well. Would this be an easy fix? 
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Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: March-18-2013 at 10:23pm
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That is also decal vinyl not gelcoat. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: bhectus
Date Posted: March-18-2013 at 10:53pm
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Lewy is correct. Zach at N3 Boatworks has a source for them, hit him up. There is a thread on them somewhere here. ------------- '02 Ski Nautique 196 w/ 5.7 Apex bowtie - Sold '87 Barefoot - sold '97 Super Sport Nautique - originally custom built for Walt Meloon '97 Ski Nautique '83 SN 2001 |
Posted By: Waternut
Date Posted: March-18-2013 at 11:30pm
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For the record, if you use a battery powered drill or slower speed drill, it works MUCH MUCH better than the high speed electric drills. It's faster, the wheel lasts longer, and it doesn't heat up the wheel and boat as much. The corded electric drills also have a tendency to make your eraser wheel egg shaped due to the speed which pretty much trashes it. I did my entire boat with 1/3 of a wheel primarily using a battery powered drill. My buddy got half of a jetski before destroying the same kind of wheel and a corded drill. ------------- |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-19-2013 at 12:23am
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Eraser wheels are like voo doo science. The sides of that boat look almost new!!! Have you buffed on them much? I would assume the transom of the boat always faced the west? Our lifts all face west so the transoms take the brunt of the sun. Im thinking of having a addition to my cover made with snaps that covers the platform so I don't burn up my new graphics. I can print those "lightning bolt" graphics for you if you need them. ------------- |
Posted By: Toothstud
Date Posted: March-19-2013 at 12:41am
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Great. Ordered the eraser wheel from o'reilly and I can pick it up in the morning. Zach I'll definitely order those from you soon but not now. I picked up the 3m finishing products and I'll need to get the rotary polisher and pads which set me back more than what I was anticipating. With the new graphics and nice finish, i'm really expecting a great turn out. |
Posted By: Toothstud
Date Posted: March-19-2013 at 1:54am
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I'm having a hard time finding a orbital polisher I can pick up immediately while I'm on break. This is the only product I can find from HD/Lowes. http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202910698?productId=202910698&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&MERCH=REC%2d%5f%2dproduct%2d5%2d%5f%2d203054743%2d%5f%2d202910698%2d%5f%2dN#.UUfRgqUq9E8" rel="nofollow - porter-cable polisher/sander I'm looking for an adapter for this in order to use the 3m pads |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: March-19-2013 at 4:23am
| No, that will put on wax and keep the boat shined, but it won't get it there. Don't know where there are any Harbor Freights in SA, I do there is a Northern Tool around 10 / 410, get a cheap rotary polisher maybe $50 and use the big pads. I did the process 3 times to get rid of the ghosting then my boss borrowed it and shined his bathroom counters, it's getting a little weak, but I think there's at least 1 more wetsanding in it and it only cost me $45. You'll use something like that PC a lot so it's worth the $ to buy a good one, you just need a cheap rotary for this job since its a 1 time deal unless you're going into the detail biz. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-19-2013 at 8:36am
John, They do make low and variable speed corded electric drills!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Waternut wrote:Posted By: Toothstud
Date Posted: March-19-2013 at 7:28pm
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Hey Don, I stopped by Northern Tools and found exactly what I needed. Thanks for the tip. Also theres a Harbor Freight Tools on the same exit as Northern, except its on Vance Jackson inside Loop 410. I stopped by there to get the sandpaper I needed. The eraser wheel is working well. I had to charge my battery mid way though so I'm waiting on that. I've wet sanded and compounded the starboard side. I'm taking a water and beer break. This job is tough. Hopefully finish by tomorrow when the new graphics come in. |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-19-2013 at 7:32pm
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Get it done!! It should look wonderful. ------------- |
Posted By: mark c
Date Posted: March-19-2013 at 7:40pm
| Harbor freight has its uses, but sandpaper isn't one of them, you will go thru a ton of their paper qucikly. Go to mcmastercarr.com and get paper from them, lasts way longer, and is actually cheaper. They have plastic backed hook and loop discs in both 5 and 6" sized with and without the vaccum holes in grits from 180 grit all the way up to 2000 10 to pack for about 6.25 (5" 180 grit without holes) up to 11 bucks (6" with holes, and 2000 grit). Shipping is usually 2 days. |
Posted By: Toothstud
Date Posted: March-19-2013 at 9:58pm
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Sounds like a good buy. I bought local since I only have this week to work, then I'm back to full time school. The package came in early. Got the graphics in and steering cable. I found a thread on replacing it. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20274%20" rel="nofollow - steering cable While I'm replacing this, are there any other simple things I can knock out? I'm going to watch Pete's video on shaft alignment and some other threads I've browsed before. If there are any good reads, please don't hold back |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: March-19-2013 at 10:04pm
| Cool, I love Northern Tool, it's kinda like a high end harbor freight supercenter. I used to stop everytime I was in SA, but now we have one in Austin. |
Posted By: Toothstud
Date Posted: March-22-2013 at 2:31am
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Hey fellas Need some help here. Got my steering cable replaced but can't figure out how to align the rudder and steering wheel . In this picture, the rudder is straight, but the steering wheel needs to be turned all the way to the right for it to be short enough to attach to the rudder. With this, steering can only be straight and left. Theres no room to turn right. http://postimg.org/image/5ivlr6sy1/" rel="nofollow - steering cable Whats the right order in connecting all of these parts? Also, the white greased ball joint clamp fit tight on the original steering cable, but this one has some room and can wiggle in it. I also want to make sure that the large nut goes after the ball joint clamp, and not before it. Appreciate your help, I've been working hard at this boat all week. Boat is polished and waxed inside and out, teak is stained, new graphics are finished. Just need to vacuum and clean carpets, and clean all the compound off the trailer. And Last, I need to make the diary for this boat. Thanks Brian |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: March-22-2013 at 10:53am
| Clamp block goes on the tube after the nut at the end of the cable. Unless the block it brand new, there will probably be a little slop, no big deal. I'm going to wait to see if someone has a procedure for setting up the rest before I give you mine, I'm not positive it is the best way. |
Posted By: DeepCreekNauti
Date Posted: March-22-2013 at 3:59pm
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I just bought a few of these and man do they work! I clean off all the lettering on a box truck and it came off without a problems. I used 1 per side. Did the whole truck in about 1.5 hours. The heat gun method took me 5-6 hours a side. Eraser http://www.eastwood.com/vinyl-eraser-and-arbor.html" rel="nofollow - Eraser |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-22-2013 at 9:40pm
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The position of the clamp block on the tube is adjusted so the helm is in the neutral position when the rudder is the same and then the clamp is tightened. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Toothstud
Date Posted: March-23-2013 at 2:07am
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Hey Pete, I figured that out with a few hours of trial and error. Luckily, CC designed the bow with luxurious space and that perfect fit for a pipe wrench to tighten the steering cable. I only had to test and try a 1/2 dozen times to figure out how things were working. The metal sheath around the original steering cable was impossible to get off. After an hour of struggling with that, I took it to an automotive shop and tipped one of the workers to take it off for me. Today was a frustrating day. But it is done, and my work is done for spring break. Boat looks great. Can't wait to snap some shots of it tomorrow at the lake. |