1988 BFN - PCM 454 tune up
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29434
Printed Date: October-06-2024 at 4:27pm
Topic: 1988 BFN - PCM 454 tune up
Posted By: tbeard
Subject: 1988 BFN - PCM 454 tune up
Date Posted: April-08-2013 at 9:31pm
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After restoration of the BFN I ran it a few times and this past weekend took it out skiing. I did re-check/re-set the ignition and timing prior to skiing this weekend. Using the specs in the reference section under PCM Engine Manual (1989). Results were Engine is a little harder to start and uses more fuel. 1) Mallory Points dwell is set at 26 (Spec is 24 - 29) Points gap is set at .015 vs the spec of .020 If I open the point gap up to the requirement of .020 the dwell drops to 15. 2) Mallory distributor initial timing is set at 9 degrees. The engine manual gives 2 different requirements 5 degrees and 9 degrees? I may change the timing to 5 degrees and re set the idle/dwell. 3) Rich fuel at start up. I am seeing significantly more black fuel smoke at start up than normal. Maybe the Holley carb needs a rebuild? Looks original I need to get the tune up dialed in and hopefully improve the performance and reduce the fuel consumption. As always suggestions would be great. ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-08-2013 at 9:51pm
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Shoot, Tom- I just remembered that I owe you a phone call! Sorry I didnt get back to you a few weeks ago... you caught me in the middle of my rush to get to FL for the SJRR and I totally forgot. Did you get your issues straightened out with your strut? 1. Go with the dwell- gap is just an easier means to get the correct dwell (if you dont have a dwell meter). 2. Too much initial timing can make the engine hard to start- but I dont think you'd see a huge difference in that regard between 5 and 9 degrees. Our 454 ended up way north of that and still starts nice. So long as you start nicely and dont end up with too much final at WOT (pinging), then advance it as much as practical. Going by memory, the 454 should do fine with 35 total timing. 3. Id say if you havent rebuilt it, then do so. Cant hurt! That could very well explain your hard starts as well as your rich condition. What are you running for a prop, by the way? Following the tune up, a modern prop is the best way to wake up a boat used to pull skiers (or footers)! ------------- |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-08-2013 at 10:01pm
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No sweat Tim....I did get the strut lined up. The alignment process worked and I have it dialed in. How was the FL trip? Would have loved to gone....mabey next year. I do have a dwell meter and I gaped the points until the dwell read 26. I plan to do a carb rebuild....25 years old...probably needs it. I cannot understand why it is using significantly more fuel???? I am running the original 14 X 14 Federal. I had it rebalanced this winter. ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-08-2013 at 10:09pm
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Sounds like youre good to go on the dwell. If youre using more fuel and seeing signs of running rich, then a carb rebuild may help. How are you measuring fuel usage? What types of driving/skiing are you doing when looking at the fuel economy (typical or atypical use?)? That 14x14 will get the job done for sure... but a modern prop will really wake the boat up. Its most noticeable with a good load on it. Something to consider when everything else has been squared away and your money tree replenishes itself! FL was great- great group of folks, as usual. The 80 degree weather sure is better than CT this time of year! (Ice just went out yesterday, about darn time.) We braved the gators and did a bit of footing too- always great to get a few early season runs in. ------------- |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-08-2013 at 11:14pm
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Some carbs use foam floats, which get saturated with gas, then run rich. Could be an explanation of your degradation. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 1:22am
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Thanks, Any suggestions where to buy a Holley Marine carb kit? I do not have a method to check total timing. I guess I would need the dampner tape? Typical boat usage for 3 skiers while exceeding fuel usage. Agree Tim about the new tech prop. Will I get more speed out of the prop? I will get the actual RPM this weekend using the dwell meter/RPM gage. ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 1:30am
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I just measured the timing marks 0-10 degrees & extended them out with same proportion. A white paint mark is easy to read with the strobe light. No need to buy anything. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 2:40am
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Thanks Chris....Yes I can figure out the advanced timing marks like you suggest. So I am at 9 degrees at idle (700RPM). What technique to use to dial this in for best performance? ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: hotboat
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 2:47am
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Watch the advance increase as you increase engine rpms, somewhere between 2000-3000 rpm it will not raise any more, it's at this point(advance all in ) that you would like to see 35 degrees ------------- Brian |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 2:55am
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Thanks Brian... I am not sure I got it....After I mark the damper, Run RPM up to approx 3500 - 4000 RPM and see what the timing is at that RPM? ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 11:10am
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I would recommend timing tape rather than making your own marks on the balancer. Cost is negligible. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-162591" rel="nofollow - Summit timing tape for $4 Or, even better, get a timing light with a dial that allows you to compensate for the advance on the light itself. I got a used snap on a few years ago for ~$50 and its been great to have. Just line up the zero marks on the balancer and then read your timing off the light. Tom, grab the LIST number off your carb and call the Holley Tech line. They'll tell you the exact kit number you need for a rebuild. What Brian is saying about the advance is that it should be "all in" by about 3000 rpm. Again, total should be in the neighborhood of 35 degrees. ------------- |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 11:50am
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Have you checked the mixture screws? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 12:41pm
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Will get the LIST number this weekend and order the kit. No I have not touched the mixture screws. I am not a carb guy at all. Most time I turn mixture screws and make things worse not better. However I have used the technique to screw the mixture screw all the way in and then back out 1 1/4 turn??? Dumb question....What do I watch to see if all the advance is in by 3000? the timing light on the balancer? ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 12:58pm
Correct. 1-1/4 turns out is a good start on the idle mixture screws and will generally get you in the ballpark, but from there, they should be adjusted so that maximum vacuum is achieved with a load (in gear) at idle. Its not a bad idea to turn them all the way in to verify that the engine stalls. If it doesnt, then its running off the transition circuit (not the idle circuit) and something is plugged up (ie, rebuild time for sure). ------------- |
tbeard wrote:Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: April-10-2013 at 1:19am
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Tom, you did have your old prop refurbed, may have some affect? What about any uninttended adjustments when going through the tank this winter? We skiied that thing pretty hard for a 1/2 tank. ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-10-2013 at 1:52am
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I plan to reset the timing and adjust the carb mixture screws. (will do a carb rebuild the following week) Then I can run it and determine the actual RPM at WOT and speed. I will have my tach/dwell meter so I can also verify the dash tach. Then I can make a decision on a new prop from delta. I need to get a few more MPH on top end. Any thoughts???? ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-10-2013 at 11:13am
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I think thats a good plan of attack. Im not sure you'll pick up much top end with a new prop (2mph is a pretty tall order) unless your current prop is underperforming or mismatched to the powertrain. The Federals are pretty lousy all around props, IMHO, but they turn out pretty respectable top ends. If youre talking about top end speed with a footer or 2 in tow, then a new prop will likely help, as I dont notice much of a speed loss with greater load with the Acmes. All around performance with a modern prop (holeshot, midrange punch, speed holding, etc) will be much improved over the original Federal, though. Exactly how you use the boat will probably determine whether you'd want a 430 (13x13) or a 1598 (13x14). Id lean heavily towards the 430 on that boat, I think. ------------- |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-10-2013 at 1:19pm
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Thanks Tim Top end is 42 with this Federal (14 X 14). I use the boat strictly for Barefoot Skiing. We drive the boat to a calm water spot and run it for a couple of hours doing nothing but barefoot runs. Speeds ranging from 38 to wideopen for wake slalom. Yes last fall we were considering a new prop and I believe the Acme 430 is what we were focused on. I hope we can pick up a little top end speed..... ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-10-2013 at 1:44pm
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Tom, something is wrong if youre only running 42mph unloaded. Stock performance on that boat should be in the 47mph range at 4200-4400 with the original 14x14. Get some verified performance numbers (WOT speed with a GPS and RPM) and we'll go from there. ------------- |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-18-2013 at 3:23pm
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I wanted to follow up on this and provide a status. Thanks to Tim, Ryan and other members for the guidance. I ordered the Carb kit from Holley. My Carb list No. is 80262 1777. Holley Rebuild kit No. is 703-28. Cost with shipping $48.00.Ordered the Electronic Distributor from Performance Distributors…DUI P/N M12720RR. Purchased the custom fit (cut to length) Taylor 8MM wires from Summit and the Harmonic balancer timing tape. Lastly I purchased an Acme 1598 - 13X14 prop on a test basis from Delta. Steps are to rebuild the carb and assure it runs OK. Then change out the distributor/wires and reset idle timing and total timing. Run boat with old prop and document numbers. Start testing props. ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-18-2013 at 3:38pm
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Tom, good plan... youre almost done! ------------- |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-20-2013 at 4:51pm
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Put the Acme 1598 (13 X 14) on last night and ran boat this morning. I have not done any work to the motor yet. My external tach confirmed the dash tach to be accurate. With driver and 1 passenger here are the numbers. WOT speed per the GPS is 48 MPH at 4400 RPM. The acceleration and torque is amazing. 1 foot wake slalom at 45 MPH with some throttle left :) I am absolutely thrilled. Plan to get started on the carb and ignition this weekend. I did check the vacuum at idle in neutral and it was 13.5.  ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-20-2013 at 5:59pm
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Correction the vacuum is 15. Per the holley web site the power valve should be 1/2 of the vacuum. So would a 7.5 power valve sound correct? ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: cphase
Date Posted: April-20-2013 at 6:06pm
According to Holley that would be correct. ------------- Thanks, Jeff http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6549" rel="nofollow - 82 SN http://www.archlinux.org" rel="nofollow - Arch Linux |
Posted By: cphase
Date Posted: April-20-2013 at 6:26pm
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Tom, did you check your vaccuum in idle/nuetral or idle/forward? Just curious? ------------- Thanks, Jeff http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6549" rel="nofollow - 82 SN http://www.archlinux.org" rel="nofollow - Arch Linux |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-20-2013 at 9:51pm
Tom, nothing wrong with those numbers! 4400 is perfectly acceptable and 48mph is very strong for that boat. If you wanted a bit more holeshot and pulling power, the 430 would probably put you in the 4700rpm range or so at WOT (unloaded). Night and day difference coming from the old Federal, eh?  Like was mentioned, make sure you adjust the idle screws until you achieve max vacuum. I would guess that a 6.5pv would be stock and is fine. The larger the PV number, the easier it is to pull it in. A 7.5 would be fine as well. ------------- |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-21-2013 at 12:31pm
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Tim I thought I would pick up 2 maybe 3 MPH with a new prop. I never dreamed it would wake this boat up like it did. It truly is like driving a different boat. Amazing…… I started rebuild of Holley last night. I bought the Berryman Chem-Dip to clean the parts. I disassembled the carb and inspected everything and here is what I found. Before remove the carb from boat I checked the choke. It was completely closed when cold. No 1/16 gap at the butterfly. When engine is warm the choke opens completely as normal. Holley sent me an 8.5 Power Valve. Should I buy a 6.5 / 7.5? Vacume with engine warmed up in neautral at idle is 15. Both floats are the black side hung Nitrophyl style. When holding the fuel bowl level both floats sit on the bottom floor of the bowl. I guess My plan is to order the floats and correct Power Valve from Holley in the morning. I need to read all the Holley instructions that came with the kit:( These are some concerns that I noticed!   ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-21-2013 at 12:53pm
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Tom, run the 8.5... It'll just open earlier/easier- performance will be good with it. Only reason to consider a lower pv would be for economy. Turn the bowls upside down and make sure the floats hang level. Don't let the carb parts sit in the dip for more than a few hours (overnight is too long) as it may strip the finish off the carb! The way your boat was performing before was not quite right... Glad it was the case of a tired prop and not another issue! Hang that 14x14 on the wall, it's hardly suitable as a spare! ------------- |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-21-2013 at 1:14pm
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OK Thx....I turned the bowl upside down and the float hangs in the middle of the bowl. Hard to tell if it is level due to the configuration but looks fine. Initially I thought I would replace the floats but they look fine. So is there any reason to replace them with brass ones or as good practice? Otherwise I will proceed with cleaning, blowing the parts out with shop air and reassembly... ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-21-2013 at 1:24pm
 Hope I can get this back together and it works...  ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-21-2013 at 1:53pm
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No reason to replace floats unless they're broken and nonfunctional. Notice the flat on the top, that's what you're looking at to hang parallel with the top of the bowl when upside down. ------------- |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 2:42am
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I completed the rebuild of the Holley. Started the engine and it ran, but with a rough idle! Vacuum was reading 11 which is 4 lower than before the rebuild. For some reason the idle/mixture screws have no effect when adjusted. I can screw them both all the way in and the motor will still be running. So the motor is running off a secondary circuit????? Plan to pull carb back off the motor tomorrow evening and start to trouble shoot the issue. Any suggestions? ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 10:59am
| Any chance 8.5 is too high a number for the power valve? I know it was mentioned that it should be ok, but you went up a couple points during the rebuild, right? |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 11:35am
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I actually found a 6.5 in the rebuild kit also. They sent me 2 PVs. So I installed the 6.5 which is what was in it before. I am kind of surprised there is an issue. I took lots of pics during the teardown, cleaned everything very very well. Soaked the parts for approx. 1 hour in chem-dip, used a tooth brush and paper towels to scrub and clean any stubborn areas. Rinsed off with spray carb cleaner and then used shop air to blow out all the passages. I laid the parts out in order on clean towels. Then I took my time and re assembled module by module. ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 11:41am
  Rebuilt Carb after spending 8 hours working on it :) ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: cphase
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 12:04pm
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Tom have you checked for any vacuum leaks? ------------- Thanks, Jeff http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6549" rel="nofollow - 82 SN http://www.archlinux.org" rel="nofollow - Arch Linux |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 12:18pm
Ahh, good point. |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 12:54pm
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No but I will. Is there a easy way to check for vacuum leaks? ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 1:25pm
| Spay a little bit of carb cleaner around the base, and if you get a change in RPMS, you most likely have a vacuum leak. |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 1:26pm
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OK will do. ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 1:33pm
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Vacuum leak would be my best guess- that would explain the rough idle as well as the lower vacuum reading. Did you replace the gaskets under the carb and spacer? Sometimes the cheap paper ones dont hold a great seal. Once thats solved, then report back if your idle screws become responsive... if not, then make sure your idle speed adjustment isnt adjusted so high that the butterflies are remaining open a little bit. ------------- |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 1:54pm
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OK will do..... One thing I just noticed is when I first start the motor the primary nozzle-booster on the left side (primary throttle linkage side) was dripping fuel very fast almost a small stream/drip down onto the butterfly. The other side there was no sign of fuel dripping. ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 1:57pm
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Well thats not good... that would explain why the idle mixture screws arent working. Sounds like you may have a needle/seat problem. ------------- |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 1:58pm
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My rule of thumb has always been the more closed the butterfiles are at idle the better. Motors with big camshafts like to hang up on idle if the butterflies are opened to far. My idle screws are non responsive and will not stall the engine even though the thing runs properly. No vac leaks to speak of. The old PCV was pulling to much vac and making it idle high. New PCV and that was solved. I need to order a new metering block for the front to fix my problem. The idle screws have to be waaaaayyyy out to make it start with the key and no pumps. It idles at about 400-500 steady rpms bunked in the trailer and about 700-800 under way. 800 out of gear. ------------- |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 2:01pm
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That would explain the black smoke. I've seen a lot of carbs leaking fuel from the front boosters causing run problems. A lot of times you can diagnose that without even taking the flame arrestor off by listening to the carb and hearing the drips be sucked by the butterflies every few seconds. At idle it should have a smooth suction sound with no breaks in the sound if you get what I mean. I have another carb off a boat that ran properly other than leaking fuel from the boosters. I am going to go through that one and see if the idle circuits work better than the one on my carb. Could be something plugged up in the body too. I paid a shop to rebuild it back when I was younger and not confident if I kenw what I was doing inside of a carb. ------------- |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 2:11pm
During the rebuild I removed the float and needle assembly. The Holley instructions had a spec for my carb float height of .140 inch...orignally it was set above .200 inch. I used a .140 drill bit as a gage and slowley bent the tab of float until it was set correctly. My carb is a internal float setting. I also replaced the needle assembly with the new ones I received in the kit. ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 2:14pm
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Did you lower or raise the float? There have been reports of bad Holley needle/seat combos right out of the box- both in rebuild kits and brand new carbs. You may have gotten one of them. If your old one didnt drip, you have the option to throw it back in there and see if it corrects the issue. I'd be on the horn with whoever sold the rebuild kit if it does! ------------- |
Posted By: cphase
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 2:24pm
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Needle/seat is a good start for the drip, you may need that float a little less than parallel when looking at the bowl inverted. ------------- Thanks, Jeff http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6549" rel="nofollow - 82 SN http://www.archlinux.org" rel="nofollow - Arch Linux |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 2:38pm
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I had to swap out an old needle and seat on an 86 we had in the shop with a new one because it was just flooding fuel out of the boosters when the engine would run. I have also found many times rebuilding snowmobile carbs that the new needle and seats were faulty. I got to the point of if they weren't leakin from the bowl vents I would re use the old needle and seats because I was tired of taking fresh carbs apart again and cleaning fuel out of the belly pans. ------------- |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 2:58pm
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With the bowl inverted I lowered the float to meet the .140 spec. I guess next step is to pull front bowl .... Do a inspection....and install the old needle/seat? ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 3:03pm
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Yep, thats how I'd proceed. ------------- |
Posted By: cphase
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 3:11pm
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Below is a good pdf for parts and part numbers for a 4160 if any one is interested: http://www.holley.com/data/Catalogs/Carb%20Service%20Parts.pdf" rel="nofollow - Exploded view and description of Model 4160 Carburetor ------------- Thanks, Jeff http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6549" rel="nofollow - 82 SN http://www.archlinux.org" rel="nofollow - Arch Linux |
Posted By: hotboat
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 3:15pm
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Easier to just change float level I would think, running a wedge or not? ------------- Brian |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 3:28pm
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Usually if you flip the bowl upside down with no float on it and you can't physically blow through the needle and seat it's ok but if you can blow through it at all with just pressure from your mouth than it't for sure bad. ------------- |
Posted By: cphase
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 3:35pm
Man I am glad to know I am not the only one to do that.  ------------- Thanks, Jeff http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6549" rel="nofollow - 82 SN http://www.archlinux.org" rel="nofollow - Arch Linux |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 4:25pm
Learned that working on sled carbs.  A needle and seat is a very strong seal when machined properly. ------------- |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 4:33pm
Chalk me up for one who had a bad one right from the rebuild kit. I took it apart and recleaned it but it still dripped out the primary. I ended up doing just what Tim said, and put the old needle/seat back into the carb and the issue went away. ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 7:08pm
I tried to blow through the new one with the bowl turned upside down. No air would pass through. I am nstalling the old one a see what happens. ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 7:56pm
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Installed the old needle and seat and boat runs like a new one. Unbeliveable.......Thanks to everyone for providng support. ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 8:01pm
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Nice
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Posted By: cphase
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 8:04pm
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Great news Tom! ------------- Thanks, Jeff http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6549" rel="nofollow - 82 SN http://www.archlinux.org" rel="nofollow - Arch Linux |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 8:10pm
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You sure to take care of business fast! ------------- |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 8:35pm
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itchy feet ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 8:47pm
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Thanks for the support Yes Andy I am ready to get back out there now that the boat will run faster than 41MPH. Did you see the post with the new Acme? 48 MPH wth 1 passenger...very cool Plus much improved wake.... ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 9:14pm
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Tom, just saw your message- looks like you're in business! You don't mess around, ha. ------------- |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 9:24pm
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Thanks Tim.... I just received my DUI in the mail from Performance Distributor. I ordered a distributor for a reverse rotation marine engine. Pulled the points distributor out of the 454 and it is not a reverse rotation distributor :( My motor is a reverse rotation 454 but the old dist is for a standard rotation motor. Amazing I will call Performance Distributor in the morning. ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 9:26pm
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Yep I saw, and I think you have it pretty dialed in now. Good job on staying focused and not getting frustrated (if you did it didn't show) your results appear outstanding. Tom you might consider the Double Stack / SFH feels like it adds 2 mph and you will be 17.4% lighter without even going on a diet. It's the cheapest 2 mph you will ever buy. Get the high, med, and low pull with no tower needed. ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 9:45pm
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Andy I did front wakes with a std hi fly pole (7 foot I think) this past weekend. I helped alot along with a improved wake. I will look at that Double Stack. I have decided Not to sell the BFN now that it performs like a Competition Barefoot boat ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 9:55pm
Whoops, should have given you the heads up on this one. Most reverse rotation chevies use standard rotation distributors. They can do this because the cams spin opposite if the crank (sometimes referred to as "standard rotation reverse fire"). I assumed you had already put it on- you're going to love the way the boat performs even more very soon! ------------- |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: April-22-2013 at 11:51pm
| Just curious, but would that distributor just need a different gear? Everything else should work the same. |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-23-2013 at 1:44am
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Perfect! Can happen even on a bran new carb. ------------- |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: April-23-2013 at 1:51pm
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I talked to Performance Distributor this morning and they were great! They mentioned that there is more work required than just changing the camshaft gear. So I am returning the distributor today for a no charge mod. Nice to have support when I screw up:) ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: June-21-2018 at 1:21am
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Revive this old thread.........I just purchased another 1989 BFN that needs the same tune up as my old 88 BFN did. CCFan imembers are an awesome resource. Thanks.. ------------- Thanks.......Tom |