Stringer/Floor Replacement Cost
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29436
Printed Date: November-24-2024 at 10:48pm
Topic: Stringer/Floor Replacement Cost
Posted By: NC_Tique
Subject: Stringer/Floor Replacement Cost
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 12:30am
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I have started shopping around for a floor/stringer replecment locally. It will be on my 79' Ski Tique. My floors are solid but the rear stringers are toast. I will most likely get the whole floor and stringers done as I want to be sure it 100% fixed. Of those who have had this done give me some idea of the cost so I have a base idea when I get estimates. Thanks !! |
Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 12:39am
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Most guys do the job themselves for about $1500 in materials. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 11:42am
This may be a touch optimistic? Figure new tools and beer and you're well past 2k?  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
SNobsessed wrote:Posted By: kytom2
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 11:45am
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I was into mine over 2 grand. ------------- |
Posted By: forvicjr
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 12:03pm
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I was in to mine for about 2800.00 doing it myself. But this was with unexpected things such as steering cable, interior, carpet, its the little things that hit your billfold. I'm now another two hundred in for a cutlass and prop puller. ------------- “Tact is the ability to step on a man's toes without messing up the shine on his shoes.” ― Harry S. Truman |
Posted By: HatterBee
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 2:11pm
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I went with coosa for my rebuild which adds a lot of cost. I have also elected to replace just about everything on the boat and had to rebuild the engine. I am scared to add it up but I'm way over 3k. The boat is probably not worth what I will have in it, but in the end I will know this boat inside and out and know that everything is new and it should last our family many many years of fun! ------------- 1977 Ski Nautique Under Re-construction http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25004&title=1977-ski-nautique-rebuild" rel="nofollow - My Rebuild Thread |
Posted By: wwchevy
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 2:57pm
There are the things that you know are bad (like the stringers), things that you don't know are bad (like my prop shaft and coupling, leaking gas tank) and the things that are nice to do while you are in there (Steering cable). The nice to do's are the hard part, because you could get away cheaper without doing them, but they are easier to do when the boat is apart. I had $2600 into the Mustang re-string. In the end I sold the boat and made $200.00 for my 400 hours of work. Make sure you want to keep the boat for a while for it to make financial sense (if it ever makes sense) . I don't regret it because I learned a lot and actually enjoyed some of it.  ------------- wwchevy 1989 Barefoot Nautique |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 3:39pm
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Believe the OP is asking what to expect someone to charge for a stringer job. Have seen claims on this site of 3-5k. Considering there is around 1500 in material alone, do the math on the labor. Can't imagine even an expert doing this job in under 80hrs without cutting many corners. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 5:32pm
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Tyler - I haven't done stringers myself, but I did rebuild the transom of my previous (outboard) boat. I didn't keep track of hours but spent every spare hour for a month on it. The point I am trying to get to is that my boat was worth zero before I rebuilt it (I could not sell an unsafe boat to an unsuspecting buyer). So the economics of a decayed boat are not in the owners favor, which is why we continually suggest doing it yourself. At least you end up with a great boat you have pride in. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: va-river-tique
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 6:05pm
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With my 77 Tique, I did the grunt work by removing the interior, motor/trans, floor, stringers/foam and cables and handed it over to a local guy who does stringers/floor/fiberglass for a living. I visited him every couple of days just to watch the progress on the rebuild and it turned out very nice, I was/am very pleased. If I would have taken him the complete boat and have him do all the dirty work, he would have charged 5~6k. I did get other estimates but he was the most honest, not necessarily the cheapest but I feel 3k was a decent price. http://awwrightboatrepairshop.net/ ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2687" rel="nofollow - Tique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=9750" rel="nofollow - Silver |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: April-09-2013 at 6:29pm
| I had a neighbor that had his OB Brendella do e a couple of years ago and he told me 5K. I know the shop and they do very nice work, but I suspect they used a chopper gun everywhere they could and it it's all done with poly resin. The home jobs here use much better materials and the boats probably come out better than they were originally. |
Posted By: 65Cuda
Date Posted: April-10-2013 at 1:14pm
| Just had mine done...I pulled everything out, cleaned the best I could and handed it over. They replaced the stringers and other wood (exhaust port, rudder support, vertical side boards) with composite, fiberglassed and painted for mid 4K. Now that I have it back, I will be working on getting the engine back in this weekend and hope to be in the water in a few weeks. |
Posted By: 65Cuda
Date Posted: April-15-2013 at 11:24am
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Now that I have the boat back, work started this past weekend. Got the engine back in yesterday and found that they guy I hired to do the stringer job messed up. The engine mounts only sit on 1/2 of the main stringers...meaning bolt holes line up with the edge of each stringer. This is not good. This is when one will say if you want it done right, you have to do it yourself. |
Posted By: wwchevy
Date Posted: April-15-2013 at 11:59am
Sorry to hear that.  What are you going to do to fix it?------------- wwchevy 1989 Barefoot Nautique |
Posted By: HatterBee
Date Posted: April-15-2013 at 12:02pm
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Tyler, I am not trying to hijack your thread, but have a question for Rich. Rich, I am assuming the engine mounts have been extended all the way? Also not sure how the engine mounts in your boat. You may be able to fabricate some type of cradle to assist in filling that gap? You have any pictures? ------------- 1977 Ski Nautique Under Re-construction http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25004&title=1977-ski-nautique-rebuild" rel="nofollow - My Rebuild Thread |
Posted By: 65Cuda
Date Posted: April-15-2013 at 12:11pm
unsure on what to do to fix it right now. I am first reaching out to the guy who did the job to see if he is going to step up and take care of it. If not, I was thinking of two options, option 1: attach\sister another stringer to each of the current stringers and glass them in. Option 2: have stainless supports made up, maybe something like a 5"x5" 90 degree support that will bolt up to the main stringers. Right now just hoping the guy steps up and will take care of the mistake. Any thoughts on what to do to fix? 
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Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: April-15-2013 at 12:45pm
| Cradle with some studs on it should fix it. |
Posted By: 65Cuda
Date Posted: April-15-2013 at 12:59pm
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Not sure what you mean by cradle with some studs should fix it. Can you give some more detail to what that means? Thanks for your advice. |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: April-15-2013 at 1:05pm
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Just curious, what did numbnutz say when you told him he screwed up? ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: 65Cuda
Date Posted: April-15-2013 at 1:15pm
| still waiting to hear back. Just shot over an email to him this morning with pictures. One would think after paying what I did to have a professional boat restorer do the job, something like stringer placement wouldn't be an issue. Seriously, many boats in the shop, great looking classics, but this is just wrong. I will keep everyone posted. Reid knows who I am talking about. |
Posted By: Waternut
Date Posted: April-15-2013 at 2:42pm
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IMO there is the right way that should last 20+ years, the wrong way that may last 2 years, and the in between which should last 5-10+ years. How you treat/store your boat, budget, and long term intentions all play a factor. Do you really plan to keep the boat forever or would you like to get this boat running for now while saving for a newer boat? We all have our opinions and I would rather save a couple thousand knowing my projects have a finite lifespan than pay double expecting my project to last forever when it doesn't. To each their own though... The popular answer that most will recommend is to do it right the first time so it will, in theory, last forever. The problem is, the right methods are still too new to truly say that they will last. Like 65Cuda unfortunately had to find out, sometimes what we believe to be the "right way" ends up being worse. I can tell you from personal experience that even vacuum bagged carbon fiber with epoxy resin can fail on you in a few years if the wrong kinds of fuels or chemicals get inside tiny pin hole voids. ------------- |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-15-2013 at 4:13pm
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The guy you paid to do it should be able to make that work in any number of ways. But he should be the one to make it work. Considering you moved your mounts in all the way already it looks like he missed by a mile, but any added uglyness should end up covered by the floor. Make sure you end up with a reasonable amount of adjustment left both at the engine and the transmission for alignment purposes when done. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: April-15-2013 at 7:22pm
| Build a cradle like the new boats have, angle iron that sits on the stringers to hold the mounts. You would need a piece that extends across the floor a little ways where the mounts go. Since this is now on the floor it needs studs instead of bolts to hold the mounts since there isn't an easy way to get a wrench underneath. Those would be easy to make by drilling the appropriate holes and puttin a bolt in them. Then you would weld the bolt in place and grind off the head so the whole contraption fits flush to the floor. The motor box should hide everything just like before. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-15-2013 at 8:16pm
+1. But, I'd make sure the "fix" was well documented with pictures. I'd want to approve of the work. Pretty amazing that theyre off by such a large amount considering that stringer width is pretty much an industry standard. Whoops! ------------- |
Posted By: cphase
Date Posted: April-15-2013 at 8:25pm
Man I hate when that happens!  ------------- Thanks, Jeff http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6549" rel="nofollow - 82 SN http://www.archlinux.org" rel="nofollow - Arch Linux |
Posted By: 65Cuda
Date Posted: April-27-2013 at 1:42pm
| to build the cradle I was looking at angle aluminum, is that the right direction or should I go stainless? either way, what thickness angle should I use that will support the engine? I was thinking of using 6"x4"X3/8" and then 6" flat stock on the other side of the stringer to through bolt and tie everything together nice and tight. Thoughts on the plan? Thoughts on the thickness? |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: April-27-2013 at 3:27pm
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That sounds a bit overkill with the backer. I could measure mine when I get home, but if I had to guess I would say 2 x 6 angle and 3/8 sounds about right. It's lag bolted / screwed on the top and the sides all holes have silicone and there's a line around the edges too. Not something you can do now, but my motor sits between the stringers on angle welded to the cradle, not sure when they went to that. |
Posted By: 65Cuda
Date Posted: April-27-2013 at 5:17pm
| sounds good, I wait for confirmation on the thickness and order the stuff Monday. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: April-28-2013 at 2:07am
| OK, 2 x 6 and 1/4in thick. the motor sits on 2 x 2 3/8 thick welded to the 6in side. |
Posted By: 65Cuda
Date Posted: April-28-2013 at 10:18am
| thanks for the additional info, would you be able to take a picture so that I can see exactly how it is setup? |