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SS Mini Update

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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2946
Printed Date: September-25-2024 at 12:25pm


Topic: SS Mini Update
Posted By: dchris17
Subject: SS Mini Update
Date Posted: January-28-2006 at 8:26pm
Man, I wrote this really long post and then accidentally deleted it. GOSH!

Okay, so I'm worn out now and I'll recap. Sorry. It's been a beautiful week here and you know what that made me think of: the SS Mini. My wife thinks I'm crazy, but I cleaned my side of the garage today and brought the boat home. It was nice to have it back in the garage. I leaned against the boat and rested my chin on the side and just stared at if for a few minutes, daydreaming.

The kids were excited too. They climbed in while I pushed the boat into the garage and pretended to drive. My two-year-old boy screamed when I took it out. He's missed having the boat around too - every time we crossed the bridge over the lake he'd say "Wanna go on the boat."

Anyway, I'm going to disappoint many of you, but I'm not going to launch into a full restoration/refurbishing project just yet. My objective this summer is to just get the boat skiable. I'm not sure exactly what I'm going to do with the boat yet, and financially it's not the right time for me to start the spending spree. So, I'm only going to do the things required to ski through the summer and put off the big stuff till next year.

So here's my to-do list. All advice is appreciated and welcome from EVERYONE!

#1: Probably the most important. One of the engine mounts is off. Everything is intact, but the engine side of the bracket is completely off the rubber washer and the little clip that holds it all together is missing. I need advice on how to repair this.

#2: Replacing the floor. I'm not going to replace the whole floor, just part of it. There was a 3' x 3' section of plywood behind the doghouse that fell apart when I tugged on it. This will be a quick job - I'm just going to replace it with a piece of cheap plywood just like the one I tossed out. I'll replace the whole floor next year.

#3: Ski pylon. The boat doesn't have one. Should I get an old style one (ring and finger) or the new kind? Where should I get it? How much is this going to set me back?

#4: Wire harness. Got that covered - my brother's making me a new one.

#5: Gauges - already bought them on eBay, just need to install them.

Finally, I'd appreciate a favor from all of you. I'm an aspiring writer and I've published one of my stories online. I'd appreciate it if any of you who have time would read it and let me know what you think. Here's a link: http://www.techdarkside.com/?page_id=79 - Alter Ego

Thanks for all the help and encouragement!

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Replies:
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: January-28-2006 at 9:09pm
dchris; Glad to see ya back on. Glad you got that boat home also. Keep us posted.

john

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 8:06pm
    dchris, its great to see you workin on the boat!! I will still keep sayin that Im still jealous of you! For your info, Jbear is the man to get us rollin!! You have a great piece of history in that boat because it sounds like the kids will never forget it! Heck, I wish I could of ridden in the boat when it was on the trailer being moved around!! The funny part is, I was talking to one of my friends about going down Main street this winter with me in the boat and him driving the truck!!
                         Jeff....

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17


Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 8:12pm
Jeff & dchris; Used to keep my boat at home in the garage in Ohio just so my son and I could go out and sit in it during the winter. Unattached garage, no heat, Mrs. jbear thought we were nuts. But my son is 36 (how'd he get so old?) and still remembers. Jeff, you know what great memories dchris and his son are making right now.


john

-------------
"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 8:15pm
dchris and Jbear. when I was a kid, the loudest boat was the best!!!!!

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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 8:23pm
Well, this one is darn loud. I love the sound of that motor turning. The best sound in my life, aside from the first noise my children made when they came into this world, was the first time I turned that motor over and it started without a cough. I get all choked up just thinking about it...

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TroopTrack : The Best Scouting Software


Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 8:34pm
    Dchris, being your first CC, you will prob keep her a long time!! I like loud (not always though in a ski show) and can relate with ours, they just sound like no others being straight piped! I bet you will keep the boat for a long time to let the kids enjoy using it. Its like a part of the family!! When I bought my 76, the sweet mother couldnt watch me drive off with it since the kids grew up with it. She knows though that I take real good care of it and tell her that. It makes her feel better knowing its being cared for!!
                               Jeff.....

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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 8:53pm
Guys; # 1 reason I bought the '80 was , the guy (Dixeelegger) advertised it on this site as "no mufflers, but they are avalible if you want". Needless to say, they are still in my attic. Talk about LOUD. Always get noticed on the ramp for more than having the best lookin' driver, Mrs. jbear.

john

PS for dchris; went on your site and read the story, neat. Sent ya an e-mail there also.

-------------
"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 9:09pm
    Jbear, did I just read a "LOUD 80 SN NO MUFFLERS"????? COOL! Where there dude!! Keep the cold ones waiting!!!   

                             Jeff...

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 4:37am
Thanks to everyone who's read my story, plus all the boat encouragement. It's appreciated.

Now, can anyone tell me where to get a ski pylon? I'm inclined to get the new kind...

Also, my exhaust hoses fell apart when I unhooked them from the engine. These should be easy to replace, but I'm curious if anybody has any suggestions as to where to purchase these items. Obviously, SkiDIM is one place to start...

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TroopTrack : The Best Scouting Software


Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 8:04pm
   Dchris, make sure you get the corrigated type that is extra flexible for tight bends. The straight stuff just doesnt move. Yours should be 3 inch. Also, check the hoses at the rear exhaust thru hull flanges to the copper pipe. Skidim is a good place to get the hose.

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 9:06pm
Jeff, is this the http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MPI252-3000 - hose you're referring to? Do I use the same stuff for the straight section? It's spendy - 1$ an inch. Oh well.

Any tips on the ski pylon or the motor mount?

Thanks!

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http://www.trooptrack.com" rel="nofollow -

TroopTrack : The Best Scouting Software


Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 9:38pm
dchris thats the hose, it works well. About the pylon, I have no idea on what to do with that. The motor mount parts can be purchased from skidim as well. They have not changed them. My new 350 has the same mount as the old 302 did, just the brackets were different.

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: January-31-2006 at 4:30am
Thanks Jeff!

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: January-31-2006 at 7:26pm
   Its my pleasure dchris since we have boats that are sisters!!!!

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: February-01-2006 at 7:25pm
I know my little girl would like to see some more pictures of her long lost sister, Jeff... Besides, I could use some good ref pictures.

I took off one of the side panel things (what are they called? gunnels?) and fixed re-stapled the vinyl. It looked great afterward. I tried to take the other one off, but I couldn't figure out how to remove the throttle. Any hints, Jeff or anybody else?

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TroopTrack : The Best Scouting Software


Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: February-01-2006 at 7:47pm
   Dchris, taking the throttle off is a pain in the butt! Its basically the 3 screws with nuts on the back side, and disconnecting the control cables that are tough. I have had them off several times. If yours is original, it might have the teleflex control instead of the morse control. The 74 had the teleflex and it went in the trash. Getting back to the point, you have to stick your head in behind the control to see whats going on. I also have a digial camera that works finally.

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17


Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: February-01-2006 at 7:49pm
Oh yeah Dchris, I almost forgot, But I am still jealous of your STOLEN boat!!

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: February-01-2006 at 7:55pm
Agreed: dchris stole that boat.

john

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: February-01-2006 at 8:03pm
Mine's original - should I get the Morse control? What's that gonna get me?

I'm going to install the gauges in the next week or two.

You guys can call me Dave. It rolls off the tongue a little better...

Can't wait to see more pictures of your Mustang!

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http://www.trooptrack.com" rel="nofollow -

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: February-01-2006 at 8:18pm
    Dave, get the MV3 control. Its built better, looks better and will run for years. The old telefex control looks like something you would see in a fishing boat. The MV3 is little over $200.00 I believe. The only thing I did was disconnect the reverse safety mechanism because it caused more fatigue than it added for safety.
I will take some pics someday for you, its just kinda buried in the back of our shop and isnt easy to get at.

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17
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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: February-03-2006 at 2:05pm
How's it different from the MV2, which all I can find at SkiDIM?

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: February-03-2006 at 9:08pm
Dave, sorry for my brain cramp, but it is the MV2. Properly adjusted those feel nice and the black knob looks cool. I ripped off the little platic safety device under the knob. I know a lot of guys will say that they put it there for a reason, but where no one unskilled drives the boat, it causes more harm than good-especially when your docking. The one on my 76 is the original Morse control w/o the safety, hense I believe thats where the 2 came about in the MV, but cant be 100% sure.

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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: February-04-2006 at 6:04pm
Cool thanks! I still haven't figured out how to get the old handle off - it has some kind of set screw in the bottom of it, but I haven't worked it out yet.

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: February-04-2006 at 6:33pm
   Yes, if my memory serves right without looking at mine, its a allen screw on the bottom of the handle. Loosen it, then it will pull off. The shaft is splined and the set screw just holds it from popping off. Good luck!

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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: February-04-2006 at 7:56pm
I've been trying to take a picture of that set screw - it looks like a star head. i'm going to have to buy one - I don't have any small enough.

I got a kerosene heater for the garage today. It was nice and toasty, in spite of the cold and snow.

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http://www.trooptrack.com" rel="nofollow -

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: February-04-2006 at 8:29pm
    Happy to hear that you have heat!!! Also glad youre workin on her!!!! Must of been one of Jbears magical spells!!!

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: February-04-2006 at 8:39pm
It's jbears job to keep you guys motivated to work on those beautiful Mustangs so all of us here can enjoy.

john

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: February-05-2006 at 4:02am
Well, my beautiful Mustangs going to need new/repaired stringers eventually. I pushed my finger right through one of the outside stringers last night!

Thanks jbear, and everyone else who's pushed me to work on the SS Mini.

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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: February-05-2006 at 8:12am
Motor mount is fixed - just need a snap ring now.

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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: February-05-2006 at 3:37pm
Chris; No thanks necessary. Don't ya realize how many of us are watching and following and enjoying you workin' on this boat?

john

-------------
"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: February-05-2006 at 5:11pm
Well, I appreciate all of it!

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: February-05-2006 at 7:20pm
    Great job Dave!! Glad to hear the mount is fixed!!!!!

Jbear, keep up the good work!!

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: March-17-2006 at 7:58pm
Well, I finally got the shifter removed, so I can take off the vinyl on that side and repair the wood beneath.

I've also got the steering wheel off so I can take the dash off and begin rewiring it with the new gauges.

I'm going to repair rotten wood tomorrow, in the seat and that side thing.

I've been removing all the various things that are attached to the hull so that I can buff it up. Pretty soon I should be able to post "naked" pictures of my boat!

And, I almost forgot. A buddy of mine with a machine shop is going to build me a custom pylon - it's going to be a regular height ski pylon with an extension that slides over it for boarding.

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Posted By: hawkeye
Date Posted: March-19-2006 at 7:46pm
Yea short of snagging a pylon out of a scraped boat its difficult to find one. Your buddy seems like a good pal esp. if he only charges you materials.

What sort of mount are you fabricating? or does your boat have the mount?

Oh and fix your link to Jack Russell Terrorists, you have terrorists spelled terrorsists. Great dogs though.


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: March-20-2006 at 4:55pm
My boat has the mount in it. It just doesn't have the pylon. Never did, according to the original owner. The mount is 1" diameter, but I'm going to put in a 2" pylon, just because I think it looks cooler. And we're not going to use a rope ring - my buddy's going to turn a custom thing on the lathe for the rope. I'll post pictures eventually.

Thanks Hawkeye, the link is fixed. They are great dogs.

The boat is pretty much naked now. I'm trying to decide what to do with the dash - I might go aluminum, or I might just stick with the original wood-grained contact paper. The truth is, it doesn't look that bad with new gauges.

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TroopTrack : The Best Scouting Software


Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: March-20-2006 at 7:24pm
    Dave, always a pleasure to see ya workin on that cool boat. The pylon mount as you described I am assuming is the hole in the hull where its about a inch. Does yours have the floor bushing/trim ring installed in the floor? I ask this because the 74 has a smaller plyon than the 76. Both are original and the guess (have not measured them) is that the 76 has a 2-1/2 inch diameter, and the 74 has a 2 inch diameter.
     Keep up the good work!
                             Jeff...

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: March-20-2006 at 8:28pm
    Oh yeah, whats the purpose of the old rope ring with the 45 degree stub??

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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: March-21-2006 at 5:33am
Originally posted by JEFF KOSTIS JEFF KOSTIS wrote:

     Oh yeah, whats the purpose of the old rope ring with the 45 degree stub??


Huh? Do I have an old rope ring? I did grab a cheap pylon on eBay, thinking it would work only to figure out that it was too short. I'm using it to figure out the location of the pin hole in the mount.

There's no trim ring on this boat. I'm going to have a custom one made. It's nice to have a friend with a machine shop.

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Posted By: hawkeye
Date Posted: March-21-2006 at 12:40pm
Yea, get the dimension from the current nautique pylon stub, i think its one of the coolest looking around.

The old style ring w/ the finger works, but i think its just a pain in the butt, and no where near as functional, plus all the ropes now have loops perfect for doubling over a pylon stub.

Sould work out great.


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: March-21-2006 at 3:14pm
Yeah, the old ring is history. I'm going to have the new style made.

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: March-21-2006 at 7:22pm
Originally posted by hawkeye hawkeye wrote:


The old style ring w/ the finger works, but i think its just a pain in the butt, and no where near as functional, plus all the ropes now have loops perfect for doubling over a pylon stub.



    What is the purpose of the finger on the ring?? I tried to ask that in a previous post, but I was unclear. My fault.

                                 Jeff...

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Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: March-21-2006 at 7:58pm
Just the old way we used to attach the rope. Through the ring, around the outside, and over the finger. If that makes any sense. BKH


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Livin' the Dream



Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: March-21-2006 at 8:24pm
I remember being taught that when I was a kid, but I could never do it the same way twice for the month I didn't have a tower on my first boat!

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: March-24-2006 at 9:22pm
    Dave, I see in the "patrs for sale" post someone has a 75 SN that burned and is being gutted. I was thinkin of you that maybe the pylon might be OK as well as the floor ring. You could then have your machine buddy build a new head. Might save some work if the price is right?????
                                  Jeff...

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Posted By: stang72
Date Posted: March-24-2006 at 11:27pm
Jeff...that pylon melted! I was hoping for the motor cover...which prob. melted first!

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stang



Face plants are not that funny when it's you face!



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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: March-25-2006 at 6:27am
Ummm... that's a pretty hot fire if a pylon melts... Anyway, the materials to build a pylon cost $20.

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: March-25-2006 at 8:17pm
   WoW!!! That is cheap!! I need to purchase my stock from you as we pay crazy amounts for steel and aluminum. That pylon, being solid and hardened aluminum for 20 bucks is unbelieveable! Well, I guess it matches the ratio on what you picked up the SSmini for!

                                 Jeff...

PS How do you do it???

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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: March-26-2006 at 4:13am
Well, first off I wasn't aware that the thicker pylons are SOLID. I thought they were made from tubes. I'm making mine from tubing.

I don't think I could make it for $20 from solid aluminum, but I don't really think it's necessary to do it that way unless you just like the tapered look of the soldi ones. Aluminum tubing should be strong enough, since most of the load is borne by the outer surfaces of the pylon. In fact, making a pylon from solid aluminum is actually kind of wasteful, now that I think about it.

That said, it is sometimes possible to get small pieces of bar stock from machine shops and metal suppliers below market just because nobody wants the small scraps. Usually these pieces are 6" or less though. Not all shops will work that way though. Usually it's the machine shops that will get rid of it cheap. The metal supply places aren't so generous.

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: March-26-2006 at 6:52pm
    Dave, you will certainly need to get some extra hard and thick tubing. Just make sure shes gonna be plenty rugged, because figure on how much cantilever above the floor. The pylon with a rope tied to it should be able to hold the boat back at full throttle take off. I never thought that until pulling several skiers or having tubers tubes go underwater. You are right in the fact that being solid doesnt give a huge difference, but it will certainly help from kinking at the floor. The aluminum is very "spring like" as I thought mine was going to hit the engine cover, then sprung back.
                                 Jeff...

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: March-27-2006 at 2:38am
Back in my college days I knew how to calculate the forces and come up with the right size tubing. These days I don't have that kind of skill anymore, so my pylon design is simply to make it possible to replace the tubing easily (pull two pins) if it bends.

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Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: March-27-2006 at 5:55am
Sorry to sound negative Dave but I think you're looking for trouble. Make it solid, I would be more inclined to design it so it doesn't bend than to come up with an easy way when to replace it when it does.

just my .02

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: March-27-2006 at 6:35am
Well there are plenty of cheap add on hollow aluminum plyons out there, and some expensive hollow onese (flitepipe) but every one of them has supports up at the top that greatly (more than an order of magnitude) cut down of the forces the tube sees when compared to the cantilevered design in these boats. I would at a minimum if using hollow tube find myself an appropriate diameter steel tube to sleeve it with, no sense crushing the engine box while tryin to find out if the pylon is going to buckle at the floor joint.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-27-2006 at 6:50am
Fill the hollow tube with concrete and don't worry about it collasping or leave it hollow and most likely you will be replacing.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: March-27-2006 at 7:09am
concrete, I like it

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: March-27-2006 at 2:56pm
I'd go into the engineering of tubes versus solid, but frankly I don't remember it from engineering school. I do remember this though - solid round stock is only marginally stronger than tubes of the same material. In some configurations, it can actually be stronger (for instance, an elliptical tube is stronger in the long direction than solid round stock of similar dimensions).

Maybe I will dig up my old engineering books and calculate the thickness and diameter of aluminum tubing required to support the same static and dynamic loads of a solid one. Anybody have any ideas about the force exerted on a ski rope by a skier? Maybe this summer I'll attach a spring scale to my rope and measure the forces involved.

Okay, now that I think about it, the force on the pylon can't actually exceed the maximum force I can pull against the rope without having to let go. I bet for a 260lb skier (like me) that can't be more than a few hundred pounds. So, if I engineer the pylon to be able to support 800 lbs peak it would seem the odds of buckling would be pretty slim.

It would be interesting to make a pylon out of carbon fiber. It would be pretty easy to make a three ~ four foot piece of carbon fiber tubing that would support 3~4000 pounds without buckling. That would be cool - the stiffest pylon ever.

Do you really think a pylon could collapse fast enough to crush an engine box? That's a pretty dramatic failure. I would expect some small bending to appear first. What do ya'll think?



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Posted By: trikeaholic
Date Posted: March-27-2006 at 5:39pm
I am going to try 2.5 dia seamless 6061 aluminum with a 1/4" wall. Strapped to the bow lifting eye, I highly doubt it will even think about bending.

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1980 Ski Nautique
Ithaca NY
http://my.break.com/media/view.aspx?ContentID=326707 - My Boat


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: March-27-2006 at 6:03pm
Sounds like a new episode of Mythbusters coming up. Actually I have no idea so I'm looking forward to the results.



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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: March-27-2006 at 6:21pm
Looks like Trike is going to be the first experimenter. I'd bet 1/8" 6061 would be strong enough for an extended pylon with a bow strap.

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: March-27-2006 at 7:08pm
    The one major difference between the "tube" and "solid" is that the "tube" will buckle if stressed too hard (unless its real thick), while the "solid" will bend, and remain relatively strong after it bends. This is only true on material that isnt so hard that its brittle.
                                    Jeff...

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17
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Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: March-27-2006 at 7:21pm
dchris,

I don't think you would have a complete failure and snap off.

However, I think your calculation re force is incorrect. Yes, I believe a skier could exert a force in excess of 500 lbs - at the top of the extended pylon. However, the force at the bottom of the pylon and mounting point could be significantly higher. That's a six or seven foot long lever with 500lbs exerted on one end. Sure the force is mitigated by the cable to the bow, but the force will increase (linearly I believe) as the skier rotates from immediately behind the boat toward the front of the boat. Also with the older smaller boats, you must be careful when the boarder swings beside the boat. A big boarder with a hard pull should be able to exert in excess of 3000lbs of torque at the mounting point. Given the narrow beams of some of the older boats, it would not be hard to roll it. BKH



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Livin' the Dream



Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: March-27-2006 at 7:55pm
BKH, I think you're right about the torque - I was just making guesses at peak line tension, which is not the same thing. 500 pounds of line tension (the force at the top of the pole) would result in 3500 ft-lbs of torque exerted at the bottom of the pole (in a cantilever situation). In straight towing (skier dragged behind the boat), the strap would bear most of this. In cutting, the lateral component of the force (the force to the side) would be 71% of the line tension at it worst (assuming that a skier's horizontal pull is maximized at 45 degrees - my experience is that you start pulling less once you get past 45 degrees), resulting in about 2500 foot lbs at the base in a lateral direction. This is really a worst case scenarion - since you pull the most the closer you are to the wake, the actual lateral torque is probably much less. The good news about the lateral torque is that the boat tilts to ease it. The bad news is that this is the force most likely to break your pylon, since the strap doesn't do squat for it.

So, I know 3500 foot lbs of torque sounds like a lot, and it is. Any pylon design would need to take this into account. A good way to test it would be to take a pylon, mount it sideways on a sturdy base, attach a tire on a rope to the free end and put a big fat guy like me on it and swing him around. If it holds up to the lard-butt dchris17 test, it should be sturdy enough for wakeboarding.

This is a fun discussion. It's brought back a lot of the old stuff I studied in school. Maybe I should have actually gotten a job in my degree...

One more thing. I bought a homemade tower on eBay for my last boat and bent it within two weeks. The reason? They had drilled holes in the vertical supports of the tower about a foot from the top on the stern side of the tower. These holes weakened the tube enough to cause it to bend. Later towers by the same guys have fixed this problem by welding back over the holes (they needed them for mounting stuff).

One final note: I'm less worried about the extended pylon buckling in my design than I am the regular pylon buckling with skiers. Tubes are pretty common with the extended pylons, but not at all for the regular height ones. That one makes me nervous, but I'm going to try it out.

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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: April-11-2006 at 10:47pm
Got a box from skidim today. Changed the exhaust hose and am working on the dash.

So, anybody have any good advice for laying out the dash wiring in a less complicated way?

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: April-12-2006 at 12:41am
    Dave, I find the wiring to be pretty neat and safe considering how the grounds are all "daisychained". I left mine alone as I didnt feel it was worth the effort and concentrate on more issues of proirity.
    My .02

                             Jeff...

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: April-12-2006 at 2:32am
Dave: Glad to see ya back on. Haven't heard from ya in awhile. Also glad to see you are plugging away on the boat. Progress pics?

john

-------------
"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: April-12-2006 at 10:01am
It's not a very good picture, but here you can see the dash stripped down.


Thanks Jeff. My problem is the previous owner had apparently done some things with the wiring. Some of the gauges had 5+ grounds coming out of them. It was a total mess. Has anyone ever used a connector at the dash side of the wiring harness to make it easier to remove the dash? I'd like to be able to remove the dash without unwiring all my gauges.

My new wiring harness will arrive this week too. My little brother manages a production line that makes wiring harnesses for military aircraft and he has printed the wires for me.

I hope I'll have better pictures to post soon.

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: April-13-2006 at 1:28am
     Dave, WOW!! you do have that stripped!! Gonna look nice when done and you in it thinking of how much time it took... As far a a connector, if you were to do that it would have to be done with water-resistant terminals of proper size for the current of a paricular circuit. I have used "weateherpac" connectors on other things and they work well. Now that I think of it, I might have a few ground wires on one gauge... Keep up the good work! I like the labeled wire scheme...

                                  Jeff....

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: April-13-2006 at 9:08pm
I'll post some photos of the wires when they get here. My brothers also sending the wrap/etc to keep the wires together - all military aircraft grade stuff.

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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: April-21-2006 at 5:56pm
Good news! Got the wire harness my brother made. Here's a picture of a sample he sent me. You can't see it, but the wires all have their function printed on them.
I'm going to finish removing everything from the boat this weekend, fix the seats, and I might even install the new gauges in the dash.

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: April-21-2006 at 9:35pm
    Nice harness, even a heatshrink end. Are the wires the cloth woven type with a plastic coating??
                                  Jeff..

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: April-21-2006 at 10:41pm
dchris: will you hire out your bro so we can all get a cool set-up like that?

john

-------------
"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: April-22-2006 at 8:09am
Jeff: There are two layers of insulation, one cloth and one plastic.

John: These wires would have cost $400-500 if I'd had to pay for them, but fortunately my bro was able to use "scraps".

One of the reasons these are so expensive is because of the fact that they are for military aircraft and the quality control procedures are so rigorous. To tell you the truth, it's probably not going to make my boat run any better to have such a fancy harness in it, but darned if it doesn't make my boat that much cooler!

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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: April-22-2006 at 12:07pm
Just talked to Nate - he says he will ship you a wire harness kit like mine for $250. If anyone's interested, post a reply and I'll put contact info for my brother up here.

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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: May-04-2006 at 2:36pm
Got the wire harness built today. It took about an hour for me to get the wires pulled through the abrasion protection and shrink-wrapped. The hardest part (if there was one) was just getting all eight wires bundled together properly to pull through.

Any suggestions about mounting this in the bilge? I've noticed on both boats I've had that the pull-ties get brittle and break off over time. I was thinking of using 3/4" PVC pipe, screwed into a stringer to put the wires through. Overkill?

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: May-04-2006 at 10:54pm
    Dave, after seeing the military spec wiring, why not see if you can get some of the mil-spec cable clamps. They are aluminum and rubber so no rust and salt isnt a issue. Ask your brother.

                                    Jeff...

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: May-05-2006 at 2:16pm
Sadly, my brother's company doesn't make those. I'm on my own!

Here's a picture of the dash wiring. I've only done the gauges - I'll do the switches next. Turned out a lot cleaner than the original setup.



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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: June-11-2006 at 9:15am
I've got the dash back in, hooked up the new wire harness, and repaired the rotten wood in the seats. I simplified things by using wiring blocks for ignition, ground, and lights. That way, I don't have to stack six wires on one post. I'll crawl under there with a camera and take a picture when I've got things organized.

Yesterday morning I started the motor for the first time since I took everything apart. It started great! I wish I had the time and money to replace all the pitted chrome this summer and fix the small gel coat problems.

I'm going to drag the SS Mini down to Possum Kingdom Lake in Texas for a couple days of skiing on one of the best lakes in the world. I can't wait!

I haven't made any progress on the pylon project. I need to get serious about that soon.

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: June-12-2006 at 8:21pm
    Dave, I am totally amazed on the progress!!! Nice, clean and better than original. I recall and laugh at a post you made asking for a kick in the butt or something like that.
    Great JOB as always!!

                                  Jeff....

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: June-12-2006 at 8:31pm
Hey Jeff, when are you going to post some pictures of your 74 with the cover off? I'd like to see what yours is like, since we've got sibling boats.

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: June-12-2006 at 8:41pm
     Sorry Dave but the 74 is still buried in the back of the shop. I have managed to get the 76 on its feet, but its still at NECC checking on why the new engine hesitates. I am way behind schedule this year. I sure would like to see your 74 in person someday. Not many of that model year around.


                                    Jeff...

Again, GREAT PROGRESS!!!!

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17


Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: June-12-2006 at 9:14pm
Dave; Wire job looks SWEET! Keep them pics coming!


john

-------------
"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: June-12-2006 at 10:03pm
I'm about five minutes shy of having finished the whole wiring job, plus some clean up. I used heat shrink connectors everywhere - I think it's a quality job.

I think next winter I'll build a wiring harness board for the 302 and build a quality engine harness. The wiring harness I build only runs from the dash to the engine connector. My brother and I are going to research a better connector than the 8 wire bullet type used for towing.

I hooked the steering back up, so the dash is looking almost normal. The hour-meter is broken, so I'm going to put a depth sounder there once I've got some extra cash. I'll live with the hole for now.

So, now all I have left is replacing the fuel hose (rotten), the bilge pump hose (too short), arranging some sort of pylon (might end up being a piece of iron pipe until I get my custom one finished), installing the horn, and cleaning up the whole big mess.

Oh yeah, I have to figure out why the motor doesn't turn off when I turn off the key. That's wierding me out a little bit. It's a new ignition switch, but maybe it's gone bad already.

Jeff, and anybody else, for that matter, who has contributed to this project of mine by giving me advice and/or encouragement, you're always welcome for a ride on the SS Mini. I hope to be able to bring her out to a reunion next summer.

Incidentally, my wife has gone crazy. Next winter when I replace the floor, upholstery, and fix the gel coat, she says I should paint the thing red and airbrush in some flames. Another retro-rod boat.

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: June-13-2006 at 10:51am
Originally posted by dchris17 dchris17 wrote:

Incidentally, my wife has gone crazy. Next winter when I replace the floor, upholstery, and fix the gel coat, she says I should paint the thing red and airbrush in some flames. Another retro-rod boat.


    Dave, buy the "SS unknown" and let that be the wifes with the flames. A nice CC classic original like yours speaks its own words.

    The ign problem is weird. Sounds like when youre shutting it down, you are getting a backfeed from somewhere to the "ign on" post. See if a testlight lights up when the key is off position to the "ign" terminal. Shouldnt be a difficult fix. Might even be the Ign feed and output wires on the switch are backwards or something.

    Why dont you bring her to the reunion this year??? Its not like your trailer is in bad shape!!!

                                   Jeff...

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: June-14-2006 at 7:52am
I can't make the schedule work this year for the reunion. My wife had a surgery recently that used up a lot of my time off.

Jeff, I think I have got the ignition and the output mixed up. I'll look at that tonight.

I'm going wakeboarding on Friday. This will be the first skiing trip of the SS Mini. I'll take some pics and post them. Unfortunately, it's going to be with a bubble-gum-and-scotch-tape pylon because I don't have a good pylon yet.

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Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: June-14-2006 at 8:14am
Have a good time, but be very careful with the bubble gum and scotch tape pylon, I have seen pylons let go before and its not pretty.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: June-14-2006 at 8:20am
Thanks Joe. Will do.

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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: June-14-2006 at 4:53pm
I need some help with the dash wiring. I'm doing something fairly stupid, and I'm not sure what it is. What do I connect the ignition posts on my gauges to? If I connect them to the ignition post on my ignition switch, the boat won't turn off (and I already blew up one ignition coil this way). Should they be connected to the alternator output instead?

I feel freaking clueless. Please help.

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Posted By: 77stang
Date Posted: June-14-2006 at 5:10pm
see this, it should clear everthing up

http://www.skiboathelp.com/tech/colorcode.html

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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: June-14-2006 at 5:52pm
So, why won't my boat turn off when I connect the red wires from my gauges to my ignition switch? Aargh... I think I've wired it per the picture. Man, this is frustrating.

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: June-14-2006 at 8:17pm
     Dave, a quick thought....are you still using the ammeter, or are you using a new voltmeter?? If using an ammeter, make sure NO wires connect to the ign switch. If a voltmeter, that doesnt apply.

                                  Jeff..

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
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Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: June-14-2006 at 10:28pm
I'm using an ammeter. I just figured out that everything seems to work if the ammeter is not connected. If I'm using an ammeter, do I connect all the "I" posts on my gauges to its "I" post?

Should I just switch to a voltmeter? This is really pissing me off.

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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: June-14-2006 at 11:46pm
    Dave, make sure the wires to the ammeter come from the alternator output stud(this line feeds the ammeter), then the output of the ammeter returns to the battery +(or the hot side of the starter solenoid). You should then have a wire going from the BATT terminal on the ign switch to the ammeter(the side connected to the alternator output). All the +12v to feed the gauges hook to the ign terminal on the ign switch. Also, on the ammeter, if the gauge reads backwards, flip the wires on the posts. It will still work and not hurt anything if hooked up backwards. See how this compares to your connections. I also messed up in my previous post as I meant to say that no wires from the ammeter should be connected to the ign terminal on the ign switch, as your battery will go flat in no time, and your engine wont shut off.

    I was looking at the PCM schematic in the reference section and they have a error in the way they show to wire the ammeter in place of a voltmeter. They have it wired to show the actual output of the alternator feeding everything instead of just showing battery charging current. I have never seen that.

    Best of luck!!!   

                                 Jeff...

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
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Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: June-14-2006 at 11:57pm
    Dave, I wont be around till tomorrow night. Will see you ya made out then so you can can the "iron pipe pylon" out to get a ski in.

                                    Jeff...

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17


Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: June-15-2006 at 8:50am
    I had to get a quick post in this morning, as when I woke up, I realized I forgot to mention that the line going from the ammeter to the batt terminal on the ign switch should go thorugh the ign dash fuseholder to protect the line. Also, the wire going from the ammeter to the batt + point on the engine should be hooked inline through the 60 amp breaker to the battery, instead of the hot battery side of the starter solenoid(if it is).

                                   Jeff...



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MUSTANG COUNTRY
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: June-17-2006 at 8:57am
Big sigh. We got in one wakeboard run in this morning. The water was beautiful and the wake that my little boat puts out is freakin' awesome. On run #2 though, there was a pop from the motor and the valves started clicking. Fortunately, someone towed us in. I haven't pulled it apart yet so I don't know what is wrong yet.

Bummer. I'm feeling a little depressed.

At least the wake was beautiful. Gosh.

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TroopTrack : The Best Scouting Software


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: June-17-2006 at 9:41pm
Turns out it was nothing - just a spark plug that had wiggled loose. What a relief. Too bad I wasted my morning not skiing!

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TroopTrack : The Best Scouting Software


Posted By: scott8370
Date Posted: June-17-2006 at 11:48pm
good news. That was a easy fix. As for skiing..theres always tomorrow.

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Scott


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: June-18-2006 at 8:49am
Yes there is. And the iron pylon worked out okay. It had a little play side to side, but otherwise it was fine. I need to put some kind of spacer around the old ring pylon I put in it off of eBay. It's too short to ski from, but it is good enough for sliding the pipe onto.

I also had my very first "Man, what do you have in that little boat?" experience. That was pretty gratifying. My M17 really looks good in the water.

I still don't have the ammeter setup right. I'm going to keep working on it this week and go skiing again on Friday.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=917" rel="nofollow - My 1974 Mustang 17

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TroopTrack : The Best Scouting Software


Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: June-18-2006 at 1:00pm
Dave: That is one of the best things about these boats, what happens on the ramp. I never take the '80 to the water without getting some kind of comments. Feels pretty cool huh, knowing where your boat came from?!

john

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: dchris17
Date Posted: July-13-2006 at 7:52am
Finally! I was able to get a solid set of wakeboard runs on the SS Mini. Man, it has a nice wake compared to my previous boat. It was nice. And there was no paddling it back into shore for a change!

JBear is right - these are the coolest boats around.

I did have one mishap. Forgot the bilge plug - there was five inches of water in the boat when I realized what I'd done. Thank goodness for bilge pumps!

A couple of things I've noticed:
- The ammeter is wired backwards. It goes negative when the RPMs increase.
- The speedo doesn't kick in at lower speeds and bounces a lot once it does kick in.
- The control requires a soft touch. It takes really small adjustments to get it to the right spot for boarding. Will that improve when I replace the control with something newer?
- The boat takes off like a rocket when it gets on plane. Holy crap! It's fun when you're just messing around, but when you're towing somebody you have to watch it.
- I love this boat, but it turns like crap. It needs a fin or two.

Anyway, had a good time. We didn't tow it to Texas after all - it would have been awesome to ski the cliffs at Possum Kingdom, but maybe next year.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=917" rel="nofollow - My 1974 Mustang 17

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TroopTrack : The Best Scouting Software



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