Refurbish or Replace? (Another Swim Deck Post)
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29764
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 3:43am
Topic: Refurbish or Replace? (Another Swim Deck Post)
Posted By: gsyogi
Subject: Refurbish or Replace? (Another Swim Deck Post)
Date Posted: May-07-2013 at 8:34pm
I will apologize for yet another swim deck post. I have read lots of posts here and elsewhere (including the useful FAQs[/URL] section; however, I would like help on making a decision on whether or not to refurbish or replace this platform on our '94 SN. I am most concerned about the protruding screws (they are worn smooth to the wood surface). Thanks for taking a look. I am going to post up a couple of other refurbishing questions ASAP.   
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Replies:
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: May-07-2013 at 8:49pm
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Looks fixable to me. How about using slightly shorter screws for those few screws that are sticking out. Use the Star Brite Three Step process. Donald |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: May-07-2013 at 11:50pm
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I would use a power washer (the secret is to use the widest nozzle, and do not stop in one place) I have renewed platforms in that shape before using that method. Let it dry in the sun a few days, then coat with your teak oil. As far as the little brads, take a small center punch and try to 'bump' them in a bit more..... |
Posted By: Frankenotter
Date Posted: May-08-2013 at 12:25am
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My platform wasn't as bad as yours but after sanding and brushing with a brass brush, I used this with pretty great success: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004YO4T" rel="nofollow - Teak Kit After using the cleaner the wood almost looked brand new. C ------------- 1999 Ski Nautique 196 |
Posted By: Madcap
Date Posted: May-08-2013 at 1:36am
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You sure are getting some interesting replies! Inspect your platform closely as you already likely have. If the wood and the brackets are stable and firm (they appear to be as the screws do not appear to have backed out) you have the makings of a great restoration project. It's a heck of a lot cheaper, and you'll be happier having restored the original platform. Do NOT sand it, and don't hit those screws with a center punch, and leave the pressure washer in the garage! Goodness. You want to be as kind and non-abrasive to your wood as possible, because at this point either shrinkage, prior sanding, or wear has caused those screws to stick out. You'll want to eliminate the sharp points alright, so I would suggest protecting the surrounding area and >carefully< use a Dremel to smooth them down a bit without taking any of the surrounding wood away. Leaving the screws otherwise untouched is a good idea - don't remove them and don't tighten them. Donald's suggestion is right on - the Star Brite 3-step process is fine to use. You'll be amazed as to how effective it is. Once you get to the third step - applying the teak oil - use thin coats and let it absorb before adding another coat, and don't rush it. I prefer function over form, so my platform looks a bit light on the teak oil when dry, because it gets real slippery if you use a lot of it in the name of pursuing a showroom-beautiful looking platform. The safety of my family (as well as numero uno) comes first. Please post the results - would love to see your "after" pictures. Good luck! ------------- '99 SN Air Tique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-08-2013 at 6:10am
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Brian, I agree that it sure looks like your Teak can be restored. A pressure washer does a fantastic job of getting down into the pores of the wood. That is important since the mold that causes the Teak to turn dark is in the pores. The key to the pressure washer is to keep the pressure low so you don't tear up the wood. The exposed screws can be removed and ether shortened or replaced with shorter ones of the next diameter larger. Sanding the Teak will not hurt. It will remove some of the high spots. The step that does the most is using one of the Teak cleaning kits. Post pictures of the progress. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Madcap
Date Posted: May-08-2013 at 8:38pm
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Respectfully, teak is used in marine applications for good reason - its natural resistance to bad stuff like rot, decay and mold. I don't believe that is mold you are looking at, but carbon. Sanding the teak MAY hurt, you will risk exposing the points of additional screws. Start with the three part process, if you feel you need to be more aggressive, you can always step up your attack. If the screws are holding, let them stay exactly where they are, they've already found their home. ------------- '99 SN Air Tique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-08-2013 at 9:12pm
Jake, Respectfully I ask you to do some reading on why Teak turns color, Here's just one quote: "There are basically two reasons to clean teak. First, you want to remove the black and/or gray color (actually mold & mildew) from the wood and get a more natural look. Second, you need to kill all the mold and mildew spores present so they won't continue to eat the teak oil and discolor the wood." http://www.marinestore.com/faq-teak.html?cart=345088538050646" rel="nofollow - From the first site I went to. I have also mentioned before That I suggest a synthetic Teak oil so any mold and mildew still in the Teak doesn't feed on natural Teak oils. Regarding sanding the wood, please note I stated go with shorter and bigger diameter screw. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Madcap wrote:Posted By: Madcap
Date Posted: May-09-2013 at 6:52pm
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I don't mind continuing a dialogue as long as the OP receives good advice and all (me included) are willing to keep an open mind and also be willing to learn. I hope you didn't presume that I haven't worked with teak in my lifetime, nor that I didn't research a topic before putting my name on a reply. You will not find me offering advice on rebuilding carburetors, that's for sure! If you continue to research all things about teak, you will likely learn that there is in fact a carbonization effect that happens to the oils, which contributes to the resultant color change. Could there be a mix of mildew and carbon in there? Sure. But look at the pattern of discoloration - it sits on the surface and doesn't penetrate the pulp of the wood. There are areas where it is not present, and looks chipped off or broken away. The top of the platform (like many) is multitude of shades darker than the underside. That is not entirely mold-like. One would expect mold to be in the places where the sun doesn't shine, yet the darkest discoloration is present in a location that likely received the most oil over time. Doesn't really matter, it has to go. How to do it is what is at issue. Also, I think many can agree that the advice offered by marinestore.com or any other retailer should be taken with a grain of salt. Afterall, their reason for being is to sell you product. Nothing wrong with that. Incidentally, they also (rightly) say not to pressure wash one's teak. I choose to buy that advice, particularly as it is difficult to have a pressure washer do it's job without allowing for a little abrasive cutting power along the way. Nice for a sidewalk, not so much for a swim platform. Too easy to make a mistake, so my advice was to avoid that scenario. Teak, ultimately, should be left alone. We should all be running around with grey platforms if our goal is longevity and structural integrity. However, grey doesn't look all that appealing, so we offer the world of commerce our money to have our things look nice, and easily buy the notion that a golden honey platform is a good platform. Nothing wrong with that either, but it does start a cycle of constant upkeep, and continued abrasion. We shorten the life of our teak the more we touch it. I stand by my advice to dremel the protruding screws rather than removing them, but would quickly take that advice all back if one is prone to putting a unsightly gash in the surrounding wood. Teak, being highly resistant to decay, is likely holding those screws perfectly right now. No reason to touch them and introduce a new thread pattern into the wood. They are also highly recessed on the underside, which may necessitate enlarging the hole to ensure the larger diameter screw heads are also recessed. Nope, no reason to mess with that. I'm happy to learn more from anyone wanting to contribute, but will be most satisfied to have the OP post a beautiful picture of work he is proud of, even if that means he broke out the sandpaper to get there. ------------- '99 SN Air Tique |
Posted By: Florida Inboards
Date Posted: May-09-2013 at 7:02pm
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A platform in the condition above I would first pressure wash. then utilize a teak cleaning solution, pressure wash again. Replace the screws with shorter and then lightly sand 220 or 320 grit. re oil and move on. ------------- Money Talks! BS Walks! and loose change rides the bus!!! |
Posted By: Madcap
Date Posted: May-09-2013 at 7:09pm
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Bullies! ------------- '99 SN Air Tique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2013 at 7:44pm
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Jake, Thanks for your advice. I need to learn more about wood since I've never really worked with it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: May-09-2013 at 8:06pm
Sometimes hard to tell what is sincerity vs. sarcasm. Is this meant to be sarcastic Pete? ------------- Steve 2011 Sport/Air 200 Excalibur 343 2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs) Former Malibu owner (07, 09) |
Posted By: cphase
Date Posted: May-09-2013 at 8:16pm
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Pete...sarcastic? NEVER! ------------- Thanks, Jeff http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6549" rel="nofollow - 82 SN http://www.archlinux.org" rel="nofollow - Arch Linux |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2013 at 8:54pm
 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Madcap
Date Posted: May-10-2013 at 2:41am
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There's no need for that, Pete. Your and Jody's experience is well represented on this forum. I just think you need to consider the OP's experience working on a project like this, and not what you would jump in and do. Just some caution, that's all. Point belabored, message received, good evening to you. ------------- '99 SN Air Tique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-10-2013 at 8:02am
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Jake, I'm struggling to figure out why you are against going with shorter screws of a larger diameter. Yes, the existing screws have seated in the wood but a larger diameter will find new wood. I've re canvased and re fastened several double plank hull bottoms in my years and the common procedure is to re fasten with the next larger screw size. This is why #7 and #9 silicon bronze wood screws are made. Since the platform is held together with SS flat head sheet metal screws, there will not be a problem going larger due to the more aggressive threads on a sheet metal screw. The larger screws with the proper pilot hole size will hold it together. Hitting the tips of the old screws with the Dremel would be a very tricky job to avoid making a bunch of divots in the top surface. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Florida Inboards
Date Posted: May-10-2013 at 12:12pm
Could not agree more! quick and sanitary! Sometimes A platform will come apart to some degree when changing out the screws I utilize 3-M 5200 fast cure to put them back together. I believe the screws coming out will be #6 SS just utilize #8 SS when you put it back together. ------------- Money Talks! BS Walks! and loose change rides the bus!!! |
Posted By: escmanaze
Date Posted: May-10-2013 at 12:22pm
I'm very curious to hear more about this concept in particular. Are there more people who share this opinion? Does anybody know of any supporting documentation to this statement? I'm the laziest guy you've ever met, and if leaving something alone is good for it, then believe me, I'll have no problem in the world leaving it alone. Ugly? Who cares? Function over fashion is my middle name. |
Posted By: Madcap
Date Posted: May-10-2013 at 4:20pm
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I'm not an expert at anything at all, except for being lazy. I do like accuracy though. It didn't take me long to find supportive information: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/teak-care.asp" rel="nofollow - Click here Or http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teak" rel="nofollow - here unless you deeply mistrust Wikipedia (see "Uses in Boatbuilding") Nice one http://www.chesapeakeboating.net/Publications/Chesapeake-Bay-Magazine/2011/March-2011/Brightwork-Varnish.aspx" rel="nofollow - here too. Sometimes there's no alternative other than going for a larger diameter screw, but if it's not needed for strength, I don't know why one would choose that course of action. Replacing a protruding screw with a larger diameter, shorter one is only going to leave an unsightly hole (or two in this case) on the topside of an otherwise lovely platform. If that same deck is then sanded, you are only going to enlarge that hole, as well as risk uncovering more screw tips. I am against going that route for these, and previously stated reasons. So, am I winning anyone over, just a little? If I can make anyone feel better about doing nothing, that would make me happy. ------------- '99 SN Air Tique |
Posted By: Florida Inboards
Date Posted: May-10-2013 at 6:46pm
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I think with my nearly 40 years of doing this I have never had a unsightly hole in a platform after re-furbishing! But you go on and do things your way and I will continue making boaters happy! Pete in your 100 years or so have you seen unsightly holes after one of your re-furbs? LOL!!!! These young bucks think they can find all the answers in life through Wikipedia!! ------------- Money Talks! BS Walks! and loose change rides the bus!!! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-10-2013 at 7:18pm
Jody, Yes, the holes have been a problem on refastened hull bottoms. The water coming in through the holes has required me to install extra bilge pumps! On platforms, no I have never seen any holes. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: May-10-2013 at 10:19pm
Count me in this camp. Although the OP's platform appears to have had something put on it at some time to make it look pretty like furniture...Im betting it was not teak oil of any type. So some drastic action might be needed. Me? I leave mine gray, it looks fantastic when it's wet. It is not slippery from oil and/or being sanded smooth. I do have a screw head poking through and maybe it's even given my drysuit a leak in the knee...I'm still leaving it alone. I'm far too busy skiing. ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: escmanaze
Date Posted: May-11-2013 at 2:16am
| Thanks for the input guys, and I would love to hear more if anybody has it out there. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-11-2013 at 11:30am
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It really doesn't matter what course of action you take because it is not a safety issue. So it boils down to how you would like your boat to look. I myself like the refurb look. We did it once 5 years ago & it has held up. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: May-13-2013 at 5:49pm
Didn't mean to cause such a stir but appreciate all the input! The Star brite kit is on order and I am ready to begin the restoration. I wish that I could find that "legendary" MasterCraft forum post but, after reading everything on this site (including Kevin's FAQs), I think I have the general idea. After closer inspection, our platform has 15 screw points showing through, all small but for two that measure almost 1/8" in diameter (this is prior to cleaning, brushing, sanding). I think I have opted to go for replacing with the shorter, larger diameter SS screws as a method of restoring. Question: how do you recommend filling the two larger holes (approx. 1/8") that will remain ... I was thinking of some ground up teak and epoxy or small teak "plugs"? Also, before I begin, I want to be clear that I can safely remove the mounting hardware/brackets (see pic) below without worrying about loose screws and fitment issues when the job is done ... it is incredibly solid right now. I will document the entire process and put a post when I am finished. Thanks in advance.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-13-2013 at 8:27pm
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I suggest replacing only a couple screws at one time so you don't loosing the shape. The brackets can come off without any worries. If you don't like the looks of the holes, try making some bungs. They have bung cutters. The trick will be matching the color. Personally I'd just leave them. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Kiteboarder
Date Posted: May-18-2013 at 2:55pm
Starbrite 3-step worked well for me. 
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Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: May-19-2013 at 1:40am
So ... a few days have passed since I started my swim platform restoration and here is an update. First, after clearing it with the experts at CCF, I removed the brackets: Second, I "experimented" and tried Roy's (aka Roym) (see the FAQs, third installment) suggestions of using Oxi(y) Clean, Dawn, hot water, and 20 minutes of time. The before and after are posted below (note that I used both a small brass brush AND a nylon equivalent during each of these steps): Cooking up the Oxi Clean brew, before ...  After the Oxi treatment (used only a garden hose to rinse):  Next, the Star Brite "kit" ... Step 1:  With nothing to lose, next stop the pressure washer (wide spray ... about 3 minutes total time at the local auto-wash stop) ... I took it to the edge and, even with relatively close contact, no damage ... the pre-pressure wash, post-Star Brite "Cleaner: Step 1" is shown below:  Will let this deck dry out in the Colorado sun and take another picture ... I think I will be grabbing the oscillating sander and begin working my way up from about 80-120 grit before heading to Star Brite Step 2, "brightener." |
Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: May-22-2013 at 1:47am
Well, one more step before I start sanding ... Marty provided me with at tip about using Jomax (Zinsser) Mold & Mildew Stain Remover (available at Lowe's) ... here are the results of the treatment, pre- (after spraying the swim platform with the hose)—I have now used EVERY cleaning step suggested on this site: And, then after ... dried in the Colorado sun (this product worked really well):  Here is my question: After an initial sanding with 80 and 120 grit, I still have small amounts of stubborn black (mold & mildew?) streaks on the platform, should I continue cleaning/scouring or move on to the Star Brite brightener and then Star Brite teak oil with the countless rounds of sanding (per the recommendations in the FAQs)? Consider what I started with: 
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Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: May-22-2013 at 3:53am
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wire brush and water, go with the grain only, open up the grain, that will get it clean ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-22-2013 at 7:16am
+1 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: QKA88SKI
Date Posted: May-23-2013 at 1:21pm
| Hello - Question - After removing the brackets from my 88SN I filled the holes in the boat with Epoxy to firm them up. What does everyone use for a sealer when re-attaching the platform? |
Posted By: HatterBee
Date Posted: May-23-2013 at 2:22pm
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3M 4200 or 5200. 5200 is more of a permanent bond than the 4200. ------------- 1977 Ski Nautique Under Re-construction http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25004&title=1977-ski-nautique-rebuild" rel="nofollow - My Rebuild Thread |
Posted By: Bones71
Date Posted: May-23-2013 at 2:41pm
| i used 5200 on mine a few weeks ago. Took some time to dry though. Glad i wasn't in a hurry. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-23-2013 at 8:22pm
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5200 fast cure. It cures in about 1/2 the time depending on the humidity. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 11:29pm
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An update on my progress with our '94 SN swim platform: I ordered some small pieces of teak from Teak World (thanks Robin) as well as some pre-cut bungs. I carefully replaced approximately 15 screws, the ones with the protruding heads (or those that soon would be), with larger diameter and slightly short SS hardware, when necessary. I repaired the broken corner on the platform and elected to add some custom bungs (I cut the ones down that I received from Teak World using my Dremel tool—I pounded them in, broke them off once they settled, and sanded/brushed them smooth—in order to fill in the largest holes. I have continued using a brass brush, off-and-on with water, and am ready for a final round of Star Brite teak cleaner and then the brightener. I plan to then continue with the oil, dry, sand protocol, oil again ... etc., etc. The first image shows the two largest holes that were filled nicely with the custom bungs (can't see them now):   
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Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: June-09-2013 at 12:38am
As long as I am spending $$$, I next went with the StarBrite "Magic Scrub" pad (SS) and another round of Teak Cleaner, followed by the Brightener ... the results:  Next, Teak Oil and the oil/sand multiples. |
Posted By: 89Martinique
Date Posted: July-08-2013 at 2:49pm
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Any pics of how your deck looks after the teak oil? I am trying to convince my self to do this for my CC. I have scrub brushed it and it looks great as soon as it hits the water. But would like the looks of a brand new looking deck. ------------- Current Boats: 1992 Supra Comp-TS6M PCM 351w HO Pro Boss Pro-Tec Ignition - Full Composite (no wood stingers!) 1989 (3rd Gen) Correct Craft Martinique B/R PCM 351w Power Plus 1984 E-Scow Keuka Lake, |
Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: August-21-2013 at 7:15pm
I am long overdue on an update of this restoration (as well as some of my other posts) but our 2-week ski vacation is now behind us and I can turn my attention to "giving back" to the CCF forum. Note that after all the scrubbing, cleaning, etc. I spent a couple of MONTHS working my way through Pete's "1. Clean 2. Dry (completely) 3. Oil 4. Wet sand (with oil) 5. repeat steps 3-4" process, up to 800 grit—with letting almost a week go by between each round with the platform baking in the CO sun. As an added bonus, I had the brackets powder coated to revive them as well. Not slick at all ... perfect under the wet foot. The results:   Finally, a couple of pictures of our platform wet and in use by our children:  
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Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: August-21-2013 at 8:34pm
 Well done! That looks awesome.------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |