Grab Rail, etc. Refinishing & ID?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29765
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 8:37am
Topic: Grab Rail, etc. Refinishing & ID?
Posted By: gsyogi
Subject: Grab Rail, etc. Refinishing & ID?
Date Posted: May-07-2013 at 8:43pm
I will apologize for the dirt on our boat ... this photo was taken when we first took delivery last summer and it had been sitting for a bit ... NOT cleaned up as it is now. I also searched and could not find anything on this. Our boat is going in for a professional wet stand, new graphics, etc. on May 16th. I would like to know how to best restore the black parts marked 1, 2, 3 (as well as the correct names of each). I know that #3 is the referred to as the grab rail. Bottom line: how do I get to/disassemble and restore each of these? Thanks in advance. I will certainly post up pictures when I am finished. 
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Replies:
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: May-07-2013 at 10:06pm
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For the grab rail you're going to have to get to the mounting bolts from underneath. Take out the rear seat and hopefully you'll be able to find the. For the tow ring, is there an Allen head on the top of it? The step pad has the screws in the corners. If you have a grinder with a wire wheel, you can strip #2 and 3 with it and then repaint. They do look nice and shiny underneath though... For #1, what is the surface? If I remember my 92 Sport, it was kind of a squishy pad... correct? If so, that may be hard to find. ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-08-2013 at 6:18am
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Brian, I know Jody mentioned it once that the grab bar is stainless that was painted black. He said that he's stripped the paint on some and left the stainless natural. If you don't like that look, you could paint it again. Strip it, sand it with some 320, use a self etch primer and then the black top coat. Although not the original look, the bare stainless will hold up the best. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: May-08-2013 at 1:29pm
| Jeff, thanks for the correct nomenclature ... are the step pad and tow ring anodized, rather than painted? Peter, I like the idea of the bare stainless, but am trying to do my best to keep this "original" ... I will get if off and then decide. Thanks to you both. |
Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: May-17-2013 at 1:01am
Ok, our family skier is off to the gel coat specialist as of this afternoon ... I grabbed as many parts as I could today ... one was the step pad (see below). It had a type of squishy/soft/pliable adhesive that easily let go when I pulled up on the step after removing the screws ... any idea as to what adhesive to use when I replace it (it seemed like a type of anti-vibration glue). Also, I assume I can just get new screws and have the heads painted up black along with the step? Thanks. I will get up pictures of the new works soon (sure wish I could do more of this work myself, but I don't have the space).  
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Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: May-17-2013 at 3:17am
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I'm not sure if "tow ring" is the right nomenclature... they may actually all that a pylon too. Also, not sure what the adhesive is. Someone here should know though. That is a cool color scheme... do you have more pics of the interior? ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-17-2013 at 6:24am
Brian, I have a feeling you made a terminology mistake. Did you mean to say powder coat and not gel coat? On the adhesive, I suggest bedding the step to the hull with black 3M 4200. Small tubes are available. Send the screw with the other parts or even better, send him new screw. For the quantity you need, go to the hardware store and get SS flat head sheet metal screws. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
gsyogi wrote:Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: May-18-2013 at 1:21am
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Pete, Well, the boat is at the gel coat/fiberglass place getting wet sanded, polished/waxed, gel coat repair, and a new rub rail, etc., etc., ... as I have said before, I wish that I had the space and the time to do more of the work myself, but I don't ... (I am very jealous of your collective guys' projects, both ongoing and completed). Thanks for the tip on the adhesive; however, your comment begs the question: To paint or powder coat? You initially mentioned painting these items? What do you think about the powder coating option? I would go bare stainless, but my wife wants them OEM black (plus, after some additional thought, that stainless stuff would get mighty hot ... that is not to say that the black will fair much better). I will source and paint/coat all the hardware according to your expert opinion ... I want to do this right and I want it to last. Jeff, as for the interior, other than my profile pic ... this is the best that I can do. I plan on redoing the interior (myself) next winter!!! Thanks. 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-18-2013 at 7:20am
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Brian, I've never been a big fan of powder coat. Improvements have been made in adhesion to the base material through the years but it still needs to be done correctly. Personally, I would do the step pad and grab rail myself. You could even do it with rattle cans. Prep is the key so for bast results the base needs to be abraded. Glass bead blasting would be my first choice and second would be going over it with a fine scotch-brite pad. Self etch primer (duplicolor makes a good one) and then a high grade top coat. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |