Hoping for QUICK Bunk Board Answer
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29913
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 3:35pm
Topic: Hoping for QUICK Bunk Board Answer
Posted By: gsyogi
Subject: Hoping for QUICK Bunk Board Answer
Date Posted: May-19-2013 at 6:10pm
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Just removed all the carpet (and seemingly thousands of staples) ... previous owner had used a few nails on the top of the rails with what seemed to be household carpet on top!? These appear to be the original boards and I scrapped off a bit of the original black Nautique carpet (I think Ram-Lin used some adhesive on the underlying layer) ... Anyway, I think the boards are in good enough shape to keep; however, I have 3 loose screws attaching the boards to the trailer (2 up near the front on the port side and 1 at the very rear on the starboard side). What the play here? Go up in screw size? Drill new holes through the boards and into the trailer and then countersink? Want to get this answer this afternoon, as I need to have this work done so the trailer can go to the sandblaster/painter tomorrow. Also, I plan on coating the boards withe CPES and spar varnish before covering with original carpet from Ram-Lin. The small section of potentially "bad" wood (I think the CPES can put and end to this) ... you can see one of the nail holes to the right of the bolt in the first image:    Am I making a mistake not replacing these boards? Seems like the ol'94 likes riding on these rails and I really think they will go a lot longer once fixed up with the CPES?! |
Replies:
Posted By: Bones71
Date Posted: May-19-2013 at 6:32pm
| I just finished mine today. My boards were bad. My thought is this.... Why not replace them? They are pretty cheap to replace. Then you know it's new. It takes a little time ti miter them and bend them around but then you are solid. Get the treated wet 2x4's. then clamp them down and pull them around as you go. Bones. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-19-2013 at 7:14pm
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I think CPES would be a waste of money on bunks. They look OK & I would use them again. You might want to counter bore the screw heads a little deeper though. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-19-2013 at 7:58pm
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I too suggest replacing the bunks. Treated will be cheaper than the CPES needed!! You have self drilling self tapping screws. You can use the same but I would move the location an inch or two. It is a problem with box tube trailers. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: May-19-2013 at 8:35pm
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They don't appear to have much bevel...... the bunk boards on the '78, '92, '91 and '04 all have a beveled edge that looks steeper that what you have - maybe it's just hard to see in the photos... If that's so, that's another reason to replace..... It will load better and the hull will "ride" on the trailer bunks better..... ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: May-20-2013 at 12:51am
Thanks all for the quick replies ... I wish I could replace, but I am running out of time ... I think the boards are in really good shape (and, although $$$, the CPES can't hurt! Here is a picture of the bevel on my boards and the status of my holes (looks like the prior owner used the same boards and added new holes):  Steve, you mentioned that my boat might load better with the new boards ... does that mean if I just put on stock 2 x 4s it would load better or if I increase the bevel it would load bette ... just curious, thanks again? |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-20-2013 at 1:11am
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Analyze where the most wear on the carpet was and modify accordingly. Wasn't much thought put into the bunks. Even the other brands with multiple "supports" don't get the geometry right! I prefer treated over CPES since they get totally submerged often. ------------- |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: May-20-2013 at 1:38am
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I would hazard a guess that those aren't the "original" bunk boards. The cross-section of my bunks have not been sloped from one side to another but have had a pronounced 30-45 degree bevel on the inner frame edge. I'll try to search the side to show you..... BTW - the trailer frame and bolts are going to rust before the boards rot (esp. if they are treated or CSPS'ed....) I would be more concerned about a good fit into a clean, tight, rust-free surface..... and tight, not too thick, well fastened carpet. ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-20-2013 at 1:42am
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I'd bet on the original boards being basically a single 2x6 table sawed at a 45, or close to. These are production units, improvements can be made. ------------- |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: May-20-2013 at 1:45am
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The picture of the painted red trailer (with the new wood boards) in http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28743&title=88-barefoot-nautique-restoration" rel="nofollow - THIS POST better shows the bevel that I mean. ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: May-20-2013 at 1:46am
 ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Hollywood wrote:Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-20-2013 at 8:02am
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Agreed that the bunk boards pictured above aren't original. Wrong bevel and they're not flush to the outside at the front like they would have been from the factory. ------------- |
Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: May-20-2013 at 12:45pm
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Ok, I want to do this right (and not have to do it again), especially to get our '94 to load and ride better on the bunks ... I have the boards off, as shown in my earlier posts. I am sending the trailer off to the sandblaster/painter later today. I suppose that I can get treated 2 x 6 lumber and then cut it to the width of my existing boards with a 45 degree bevel to the inside edge (will this be the best for the hull on our '94 hull)?! Then use self taping SS screws once I get it back from the painter, moving the screw holes forward 1-2" off the existing holes and using clamps ... do I understand everything correctly? Will this give me the best possible loading and trailering for our family skier? Otherwise, I am going to CPES the existing bunks and reattach them with new SS hardware once it gets back from the paint shop ... leaving everything as is (I have new carpet on the way from Ram-Lin). Thanks again! As I see it, even though the trailer is heading to the sandblaster/painter today ... I can custom build these boards without the trailer and then mount them up when I get it back (a couple of photos)? I will have to rent a table saw (or perhaps I can rip it with my circular saw?) and get the lumber home ... those boards measure 14' (I will wait until I hear what dimension wet treated wood to get) ... to that end: Steve/Kevin ... my dimensional question is this, after looking at the "red trailer post" if I took a treated 2 x 4 and knocked off the 45 degree inner edge, the boards would be too narrow? The boards that I pulled off measure 2 1/2" wide. So if I follow correctly, I would buy a single 2 x 6 and cut it down the middle on a 45 degree angle ... this will yield the two beveled bunk boards that will be slightly wider along the top surface and at the base, the surface that attaches to the trailer, then what I pulled off yesterday? Oh yes, I see what you mean TRBenj ... Thx. Where I am today: 
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-20-2013 at 1:34pm
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You are making this out to be more complicated than it really is. A handful of of users on here have already restored this same trailer. More searching less typing. ------------- |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: May-20-2013 at 2:04pm
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You can't split a 2x6 to get both sides as it won't be wide enough...... plus, you want to look for boards which have the bend already started.... The lumberyard will love you for taking those! Also you may NOT need to reposition the holes if the the screws removed like they are supposed to...... Hollywood is right - there's a TON on the site about bunk rebuilds. Bing or Google search in this way: site:correctcraftfan.com xxxxxx (where xxxxx is trailer or bunk or whatever you wish to find) BTW - google image search with the same qualifiers is a great way to zero in on things quickly........ ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: May-20-2013 at 2:11pm
| Wow ... didn't expect things to go south ... I have read nearly EVERYTHING on this site, an elsewhere, about trailer restoration ... I am also familiar with Boolean logic search techniques ... I was just trying to add to the body of knowledge and improve the bunk rails as efficiently as possible. Not a peep more out of me on this matter! |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: May-20-2013 at 2:39pm
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Brian: It's all good. I am tryin to help. The search parameter talk was designed to help, not belittle. Not all the members on this site are very search savvy - no offense intended. As far as the rest, forming the bunks is a little difficult as the wood you have now is not the same as what you ideally want to go back to. It would be awesome to copy what you have if it was just rotten, but your bunk boards are a little non-standard currently. I am not at the lake, otherwise I could measure a cross-sectional profile for you..... Maybe Marty, or someone else can? Anyway, keep the questions coming - don't clam up. I will help as it is one of the few things I can do! PM me if you don't want to "go public" .... but the more there is on the site, the more help there is for others. I would rather have 100 bunk repair threads than 1 political thread (and no one stops "peeping" on those!) ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-20-2013 at 3:25pm
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-20-2013 at 3:44pm
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The shape is wrong for CC to have gotten 2 bunks out of one board unless they were making a 3+ cuts. Two 2x4's are cheaper than a single 2x8 so Im sure they were just buying those. I posted a cross section of the bunk at one point, possibly with dimensions. ------------- |
Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: May-21-2013 at 11:31am
Those boards very well may be original. Through the years with the weight of the boat- wet boards then dry--- rinse, repeat, the weight of the boat could've flattened them out. I would not worry about doing anything different to those boards. Put a cheap water proofer on them if you want to. You'd have to have the boat and really be a wood-worker to scribe the bottom of the boat and try and get every contour just right to mate the boat with the boards-- way overkill I think. If a hole has rusted out drill a new one--- start from the front and work your way back-- using a ratchet strap if needed. Pay for me a plane ticket out there an I'll put the boards on and carpet them in a couple of hours. I think you're fine with those boards. I sent you the pics of mine how I wrapped the carpet. If you don't want to go under the board- between the frame rail and board- just bolt the boards on the trailer and staple away. Better get an electric or air stapler for this. Call me if you need to. ------------- 66 Skylark http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out! |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-21-2013 at 2:17pm
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Someone mentioned starting from the front first. This allows you to use the length of the board as leverage since there is more curve there. Don't seal treated lumber. Wrapping the carpet only traps water in, accelerating rot. ------------- |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: May-21-2013 at 7:58pm
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Gysyogi: +1 on not wrapping bottom, uncovered can help the drying process. Also, re: "seemingly thousands of staples" you mentioned, I've always used small galvanized nails spaced evenly. Don't need nearly as many as staples and simple to keep carpet taut as you go. Recently re-did my Century trailer, came out looking quite good, but it's an ugly trailer regardless....nail detail I see in original photo may not be too visible in this resized attachment(?). My SW trailer's got rollers but it's a good custom fit. Just refurbed that one too, I'm not too crazy about rollers but they're sure easier to replace than bunks. I rarely use it anyway.   ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: May-21-2013 at 8:19pm
Tomatoes--Tomotoes--- The trailer only gets dunked for 5 minutes at the most- then it's out in the sun all day drying. When you put the boat on the trailer- it squeezes down on the bunks - squeeging the water out. Water is eventually getting on the trailer and boat-- that's just the way I did mine. I don't think I'll have a problem anytime soon with my bunks.. Everyone is going to have different ideas-- as FrankS says-- I Did It My Way :) Do it however your comfortable with and if need- get a friend to help . I don't think there is a wrong way to do this.... ------------- 66 Skylark http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out! |
Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 11:38pm
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I rented a table saw from Home Depot and, along with some help from my wife, knocked out the new bunk boards for our trailer (thanks Marty)! The results are shown below ... now I just need to figure out how I am going to attach the carpet that Ram-Lin sent along to get the best result ( ... I know, I know, a lot has been written here as to how to "properly" attach carpet).    A "sample" of the two pieces of carpet (they each run the length of a single bunk board ... only one "set" shown, that Ram-Lin sent along to me): 
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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 1:01am
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The bevel looks perfect. It will be worth all the effort when you are done. You may want to put some fresh paint on the metal before putting the bunks back on. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 2:25am
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Looking great! For warpping the carpet, I started at the outside...wrapped over the top...... around the inside .... and stapled to the bottom inside. Once on and tight, cut the carpet along the inside of the channel along the bottom of the wood. You're body is pretty twisted under there but the cut won't show and you'll only have one cut edge to worry about seeing...... ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: sailsail
Date Posted: June-30-2016 at 2:30pm
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If you are using treated lumber don't use galvanized hardware! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-30-2016 at 4:07pm
Bill, I feel your warning is very dated. Yes, with the old CCA treatment being very corrosive, there were concerns with galvanized. Now that CCA is rarely used and ACQ and MCQ are treatments of choice, galvanized hardware is actually preferred. In fact, and as an example, it is the recommended fastener of Simpson Strong-Tie. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |