Oil with Zinc or ZDDP
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29988
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 7:36am
Topic: Oil with Zinc or ZDDP
Posted By: shagit
Subject: Oil with Zinc or ZDDP
Date Posted: May-26-2013 at 12:17am
Ok, now I'm a bit confused. I hear about needing to use oil that has zinc in it like Valvoline VR1, then I find this whilst leafing through the owners manual....
|
Replies:
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: May-26-2013 at 12:20am
Try this
|
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-26-2013 at 12:33am
Alot of things have changed in the last few years,how old is the manual? Some of the things recommended in my 48 Ford tractor manual they don't even make anymore  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: May-26-2013 at 9:59am
|
A short explanation of the need for zinc additive/zDDP: Since engines were invented, the camshaft has rubbed directly on the lifters to operate the valve train, and the rocker arms acted directly on the valve stems. The zinc was necessary to prevent galling and wear at those friction points. Since roller rockers and lifters came into wide use in the last 20 years or so, our meddling government decided that the zinc, being a pollutant, should be eliminated from the oil. Thus any engine that doesn't have rollers could be subject to damage to the cam, lifters, and rockers if zinc is not added to oil that doesn't already have it in. Art ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: May-26-2013 at 10:11am
| No need to add it, but you do need to make sure you use oils that have enough. Valvoline VR1 20w50 and Mobil 1 15w50 seem to the most commonly available choices. |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: May-26-2013 at 10:48am
| Good point Gary! And thanks for clearing it up Art Txfoil. VR1 this oil change, then Mobil 1 after that. :) |
Posted By: firstboat1
Date Posted: May-29-2013 at 8:54pm
| I called the dealer last year and they told me to use 30W in my chrysler 318. I know you guy are talkn Fords here but what do you say about the 318? |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-29-2013 at 9:07pm
|
Same advice applies to all flat tappet cammed ski boat motors... 351w, 302, 318 and many others included. ------------- |
Posted By: firstboat1
Date Posted: May-29-2013 at 9:09pm
| ok, I've been running Castrol 30W. I'm not sure if it has zinc or ZDDP. I' will have to check. Thanks |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-29-2013 at 9:23pm
Craig, How long has this dealer been around and how well does he know older engines? BTW, when it comes to the older engines, I'm shocked you would trust a dealer over the members here on CCfan!!   ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
firstboat1 wrote:Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: May-29-2013 at 10:24pm
|
At thvery least you should stop by here 1st so you can tell the dealer what he needs to do.
|
Posted By: firstboat1
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 12:04am
 Well, you both make good points. I will know what to do in the future!
|
Posted By: cadunkle
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 12:55pm
|
You can safely use any modern lower zinc/phosphorus oil in these engines after camshaft break in and first oil change. The only time you need a high zinc/phos oil is for cam break in and cheap insurance to use it for your first oil change after that. If you are running an aggressive high lift and rapid ramp rate cam with high spring pressures then you will want to use a high zinc/phos oil all the time. The vast majority of people here are running bone stock (and hence extremely mild) cams and valve springs. If the springs are 20+ years old they'll have even less pressure. If your engine is already broken in and you're not running an aggressive cam, then run whatever oil you prefer or whatever is on sale. |
Posted By: 800wildcat
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 1:37pm
| If I remember correctly (and at my age that's getting shakier all the time), zinc also helps prevent corrosion during off season storage. If my memory is failing I'm sure someone here will be glad to correct me. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 2:25pm
|
Cadunkle, thats a pretty bold statement... and while logical, I'd love to see it backed up by data. Ive wiped out a cam before, and its not pretty. Its certainly worth the minimal extra cost to run a high quality, high zinc/phos oil all the time- even on my stock engines. Its very, very cheap insurance. The heavy metal additives do make the oil more "sticky", which is why theyre recommended on flat tappet cam motors. The metal on metal contact patch between the cam and lifters requires lubrication. It makes sense that the additives would also help prevent corrosion during extended storage. The 2 choices I run (and recommend) for high zinc oil are: 1. Valvoline VR1 20w50 (conventional, silver bottle) 2. Mobil 1 20w50 ------------- |
Posted By: cadunkle
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 3:15pm
|
TRBenj, what were the specific circumstances of your wiped cam? How many miles or hours of run time on the cam/lifters/springs? What was the breakin procedure? What engine? What springs used? Any higher than factors ratio rockers? What was the valve lift? What oil was used for break in? What oil was used at time of cam failure? What oils were used between breakin and failure? Let's look at the specifics of your failure since we want this backed up by data, so please share your postmortem analysis of the failure. I've had three cam failures out of dozens of engines I've built, only one was oil related. The first was an a 302. I wiped a Comp 31-242-3 http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=800&sb=2" rel="nofollow - Specs using Comp lifters and Comp 942-16 springs. Heads were early closed chamber 289 heads with mild port job. I forget which rockers I used but whey were stock ratio roller. This cam failure occurred during initial cam break in. No issues during break in so far as oil pressure, leaks, etc. No shut down and re start of engine during break in. Normal break in procedure was followed, holding approx 2500 RPM and varied with periodic slow sweeps up and down for a duration of not less than 30 minutes. Break in oil was Shell Rotella T 15w40, no additives. This was my standard break in oil and I had never had a prior issue. This was right after the change to lower zinc/phos though and I recall noticing the bottle looked different. I was unaware of the change. The engine had a slight tap after break in and coming down to idle. Oil changed, valves adjusted. Tick came back quickly and upon inspection of filter and oil metal particles were found. I believe 3 valves had some lash at which point I tore down the engine and discovered the wiped lobes. Full disassembly and cleaning, replaced cam and lifters with same, learned of recent changes to oil, and used VR1 + Comp break in additive on replacement cam with no issues. VR1 used for first oil change after break in. Engine has been run at least 30k miles since using whatever 10w40 is on sale and no issues. This one is in a friend's car so I know of any trouble. Second failure was on a 460 in one of my own vehicles, failure was actually an internal lifter failure (oil metering plate damaged) from inadequate retainer to valve guide clearance. Floated the valves a couple times and one was just a hair too tight. Caught this before it actually wiped the lobe. I believe this was a Lunati 61602 with the Lunati recommended springs. Ported D3VE heads with pedestal rockers. Cam was a bit much lift for that application and I should have checked all valves and not just one set. This failure was not oil related. The other was a result of a fairly catastrophic engine failure in a relatively high compression 460, bad gas with insufficient octane caused detonation that went unnoticed until loss of oil pressure. Cam was not the root cause, just one of many damaged parts. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 3:55pm
|
I can give you more details later if youre really interested, but short story is that it was most likely a break in failure- proper procedures (primed oil pump, varied 2k-2500rpm over 25 min) and materials (EOS lube, VR1 30w) were used. No loss in oil pressure, no noises, chipped/wiped lifter and lobe only found a few months later when engine was torn down after a cooling issue. Engine is a warmed up 454. What a time consuming and expensive mess. Went roller after that and never looked back. Im sure there are plenty of people out there who have not experienced oil related cam failures, despite using "whatever 10w40 was on sale". Im sure there are also numerous people who have mysteriously wiped a cam lobe. You can put me in the "$10 extra per oil change for high quality, high ZDDP oil is well worth it even if it only minimally reduces my chance at wiping out a cam lobe" camp. See Joe's recent Risk Assessment explanation as to why its good practice to put mitigation steps in place when severity exceeds a certain threshold, even if the probability of occurrence is relatively low. (Im not convinced of the latter, by the way). ;) ------------- |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 4:16pm
|
I've heard that Shell Rotella 15w/40(diesel) had been reformulated. Got 4 gal. from wally world last weekend - 1240 zinc. Engine oil is about 85% oil and 15% additives. SO- I disagree about picking whatever is on sale. There are lots to chose from pick ONE high in zinc (900+) stick with it AND change it regularly. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: 800wildcat
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 4:26pm
|
Valvoline uses the highest quality additives available in their best oil and I know there has been a ton of research looking for a replacement additive for zinc and while they've gotten close, it's difficult to equal. Valvoline's additives are made by Lubrizol Corporation, my dad worked there for like 35 years. They have had the corner on the additive market for many, many years. Their advances in additives are what pushes the gov't to update oil designation standards (API ratings). Since Dad's been retired for awhile now, I don't get kept up to date on the latest like previously, but I still tend to use only Valvoline oil; their additive mix is the closest to what Lubrizol's chemists recommend. There are other oil companies who also use Lubrizol's additives, I just don't know who they are outside of Castrol and they had a reputation for not paying their bills on time. So my personal preference is to use Valvoline exclusively. Amsoil is considered a high end oil, but here in WI where we have snowmobiles (yes, two strokes) many discovered cranks rusting during the off season because the Amsoil contained no zinc. That's how I became aware of zinc's protective properties. |
Posted By: cadunkle
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 4:58pm
|
A chipped lifter certainly is an interesting failure. I'm visualizing a chip around the perimeter of the base of the lifter, but not necessarily on the base of the convex surface. That is not a common type of failure and may well have been a manufacturing defect in the lifter. Did it in fact take the lobe with it? If you had no noise it couldn't have been wiping the lobe unless you were adjusting valves all the time. Was this a solid lifter or hydraulic? I'm anxiously awaiting the model of the cam and valve springs. Did you take this up with the cam manufacturer for a warranty claim? Approximately how much run time was on this cam? I'm also curious to hear a more detailed description of the lifter base and cam lobe. A oil related failure is typically progressive. No chips or anything like that, but rather the lifter is concaved, and starts to wear the lifter and lobe oddly. Eventually the lifter develops sharp edges from being concaved and stops rotating in the bore, rapidly wearing the lobe and lifter. You will hear a valve tap well before it gets to that point. It is impossible to ignore the sound of a cam or lifter failure, it is always there and progressively gets louder. Run whatever oil helps you sleep at night, but for a mild flat tappet cam there are no special oil requirements. The factory cams in 20+ year old ski boats are about as mild as it gets. It's not until high spring pressures and rapid ramp rates that high zinc and phosphorus content are required. Is there a reason you still use only a high zinc/phos oil in this engine now that it is a roller? Is it recommended by the cam manufacturer? Most of my experience is with Fords so I'm not familiar with BBC roller setups at all. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 5:18pm
|
I run M1 15w50 in the BFN now primarily because I keep a large stock of it in the garage for all of my other (flat tappet) boats. We had run 15w40 Delo last year, but the M1 doesnt display the same swings in oil pressure for some reason- so I plan to stick with it despite not needing the zinc with the new roller. The cam was a hydraulic Comp (same as the lifters) and was sent back for a warranty claim, of which they offered half reimbursement due to it being past the warranty period (it sat for nearly a year before being installed). They measured the cam and they said the lobe was wiped. The surface of the lifter showed pitting in addition to the chipped edge. Its unclear to me which happened first, but one of the smartest guys I know suggested it was a break in failure. Only had about 10 hours of run time on the boat- though it was run pretty hard. It still ran good up til it overheated, so we were pretty surprised to discover the cam issue. You are in the minority when it comes to oil choice... everyone else Ive spoken to who is aware of potential zinc/flat tappet issues errs on the side of caution. ------------- |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 6:13pm
That's putting it mildly Tim. This is the first person I've ever heard that has not recommended the extra protection. This would include pro engine builders, book/magazine authors, engine manufacturers, auto manufacturers, aftermarket cam/valve train manufacturers, oil companies and the list goes on and on. All that combined highly educated knowledge that says you should run zinc/ZDDP on any flat tappet engine. Granted, I'll even admit some of it has to be purely profit minded but when you have people whose livelyhood hinges on a quality product that doesn't come back in pieces. I'm listening to their recommendations. If this was indeed the case all zinc/ZDDP oil formulations would be virtually extinct with exception of a very few, special order, low avaialability, very high priced blends specifically for the extremely rare high lift/strong spring crowds. Crowds that are growing smaller daily as they upgrade to roller setups. Sorry, I'm calling b******t. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 6:44pm
|
Are you reading this Joel? It's Mountain, the answer is Mountain. ------------- |
Posted By: mark c
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 7:15pm
|
this is from the corvette guys, and the guy testing the oil does it for a living. Your milage may vary and I have no preffered oils just passing a list along. Everything from here on down is copy and pasted from here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-tech-performance/3072456-motor-oil-wear-test-and-lab-test-data.html" rel="nofollow - More than you wanted to know about oil wear Here’s the ranking list: Wear protection reference categories are: *** Over 90,000 psi = OUTSTANDING protection *** 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD protection *** 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST protection *** Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIREABLE The higher the psi number, the better the wear protection. 1. 10W30 Lucas Racing Only synthetic = 106,505 psi zinc = 2642 ppm phos = 3489 ppm ZDDP= 3000 ppm NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use. 2. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi zinc = 1669 ppm phos = 1518 ppm ZDDP = 1500 ppm NOTE: Due to its very low TBN value, this oil is only suitable for short term racing use, and is not suitable for street use. 3. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi zinc = 1472 ppm phos = 1544 ppm ZDDP = 1500 ppm 4. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi zinc = 1180 ppm phos = 1112 ppm ZDDP = 1100 ppm 5. 30 wt Red Line Race Oil synthetic = 96,470 psi zinc = 2207 ppm phos = 2052 ppm ZDDP = 2100 ppm NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use. 6. 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil synthetic = 95,360 psi zinc = 1431 ppm phos = 1441 ppm ZDDP = 1400 ppm 7. 10W30 Quaker State Defy, API SL semi-synthetic = 90,226 psi zinc = 1221 ppm phos = 955 ppm ZDDP = 1000 ppm 8. 10W30 Joe Gibbs HR4 Hotrod Oil synthetic = 86,270 psi zinc = 1247 ppm phos = 1137 ppm ZDDP = 1100 ppm 9. 15W40 RED LINE Diesel Oil synthetic, API CJ-4/CI-4 PLUS/CI-4/CF/CH-4/CF-4/SM/SL/SH/EO-O = 85,663 psi zinc = 1615 ppm phos = 1551 ppm ZDDP = 1500 ppm 10. 5W30 Lucas API SM synthetic = 76,584 psi zinc = 1134 ppm phos = 666 ppm ZDDP = 900 ppm 11. 5W50 Castrol Edge with Syntec API SN, synthetic, formerly Castrol Syntec, black bottle = 75,409 psi zinc = 1252 ppm phos = 1197 ppm ZDDP = 1200 ppm 12. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) synthetic = 74,860 psi zinc = 1421 ppm phos = 1338 ppm ZDDP = 1300 ppm 13. 5W40 MOBIL 1 TURBO DIESEL TRUCK synthetic, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4 and ACEA E7 = 74,312 psi zinc = 1211 ppm phos = 1168 ppm ZDDP = 1100 ppm 14. 15W40 CHEVRON DELO 400LE Diesel Oil, conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF-4,CF/SM, = 73,520 psi zinc = 1519 ppm phos = 1139 ppm ZDDP = 1300 ppm 15. 15W40 MOBIL DELVAC 1300 SUPER Diesel Oil conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4/SM, SL = 73,300 psi zinc = 1297 ppm phos = 1944 ppm ZDDP = 1600 ppm 16. 15W40 Farm Rated Heavy Duty Performance Diesel, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF/SL, SJ (conventional) = 73,176 psi zinc = 1325ppm phos = 1234 ppm ZDDP = 1200 ppm 17. 15W40 “NEW” SHELL ROTELLA T Diesel Oil conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF-4,CF/SM = 72,022 psi zinc = 1454 ppm phos = 1062 ppm ZDDP = 1200 ppm 18. 0W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,377 psi zinc = 1621 ppm phos = 1437 ppm ZDDP = 1500 ppm 19. 15W40 “OLD” SHELL ROTELLA T Diesel Oil conventional, API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4,CG-4,CF-4,CF,SL, SJ, SH = 71,214 psi zinc = 1171 ppm phos = 1186 ppm ZDDP = 1100 ppm 20. 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,206 psi zinc = 1557 ppm phos = 1651 ppm ZDDP = 1600 ppm 21. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic = 70,235 psi zinc = 1133 ppm phos = 1,168 ppm ZDDP = 1100 ppm 22. 30wt Edelbrock Break-In Oil conventional = 69,160 psi zinc = 1545 ppm phos = 1465 ppm ZDDP = 1500 ppm 23. 10W40 Edelbrock synthetic = 68,603 psi zinc = 1193 ppm phos = 1146 ppm ZDDP = 100 ppm 24. 15W40 LUCAS MAGNUM Diesel Oil, conventional, API CI-4,CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF/SL = 66,476 psi zinc = 1441 ppm phos = 1234 ppm ZDDP = 1300 ppm 25. 10W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) synthetic = 66,211 psi zinc = 1774 ppm phos = 1347 ppm ZDDP = 1500 ppm 26. 10W40 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil conventional, API SJ = 65,553 psi zinc = 1154 ppm phos = 1075 ppm ZDDP = 1100 ppm 27. 5W30 Klotz Estorlin Racing Oil, API SL synthetic = 64,175 psi zinc = 1765 ppm phos = 2468 ppm ZDDP = 2100 ppm 28. “ZDDPlus” added to Royal Purple 20W50, API SN, synthetic = 63,595 psi zinc = 2436 ppm (up 1848 ppm) phos = 2053 ppm (up 1356 ppm) ZDDP = 2200 ppm The amount of ZDDPlus added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 24% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the ZDDPlus was added to it. Most major Oil Companies say to NEVER add anything to their oils, because adding anything will upset the carefully balanced additive package, and ruin the oil’s chemical composition. And that is precisely what we see here. Adding ZDDPlus SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware. 29. Royal Purple 10W30 Break-In Oil conventional = 62,931 psi zinc = 1170 ppm phos = 1039 ppm ZDDP = 1100 ppm 30. 10W30 Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Hi-Performance Oil, conventional = 62,538 psi zinc = 2116 ppm phos = 1855 ppm ZDDP = 1900 ppm 31. 10W30 Comp Cams Muscle Car & Street Rod Oil, synthetic blend = 60,413 psi zinc = 1673 ppm phos = 1114 ppm ZDDP = 1300 ppm 32. 10W40 Torco TR-1 Racing Oil with MPZ conventional = 59,905 psi zinc = 1456 ppm phos = 1150 ppm ZDDP = 1300 ppm 33. “ZDDPlus” added to O’Reilly (house brand) 5W30, API SN, conventional = 56,728 psi zinc = 2711 ppm (up 1848 ppm) phos = 2172 ppm (up 1356 ppm) ZDDP = 2400 ppm The amount of ZDDPlus added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 38% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the ZDDPlus was added to it. Adding ZDDPlus SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware. 34. 10W40 Summit Racing Premium Racing Oil, API SL conventional = 59,483 psi zinc = 1764 ppm phos = 1974 ppm Claimed ZDDP level on the bottle = 1800 ppm NOTE: Summit discontinued this line of oil, as of spring of 2013. 35. “ZDDPlus” added to Motorcraft 5W30, API SN, synthetic = 56,243 psi zinc = 2955 ppm (up 1848 ppm) phos = 2114 ppm (up 1356 ppm) ZDDP = 2500 ppm The amount of ZDDPlus added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 12% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the ZDDPlus was added to it. Adding ZDDPlus SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware. 36. “Edelbrock Zinc Additive” added to Royal Purple 5W30, API SN, synthetic = 54,044 psi zinc = 1515 ppm (up 573 ppm) phos = 1334 ppm (up 517 ppm) ZDDP = 1400 ppm The amount of Edelbrock Zinc Additive added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was a whopping 36% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the Edelbrock Zinc Additive was added to it. Adding Edelbrock Zinc Additive SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware. 37. 10W30 Comp Cams Break-In Oil conventional = 51,749 psi zinc = 3004 ppm phos = 2613 ppm ZDDP = 2800 ppm 38. “Edelbrock Zinc Additive” added to Lucas 5W30, API SN, conventional = 51,545 psi zinc = 1565 ppm (up 573 ppm) phos = 1277 ppm (up 517 ppm) ZDDP = 1400 ppm The amount of Edelbrock Zinc Additive added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was a “breath taking” 44% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the Edelbrock Zinc Additive was added to it. Adding Edelbrock Zinc Additive SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware. 39. “Edelbrock Zinc Additive” added to Motorcraft 5W30, API SN, synthetic = 50,202 psi zinc = 1680 ppm (up 573 ppm) phos = 1275 ppm (up 517 ppm) ZDDP = 1400 ppm The amount of Edelbrock Zinc Additive added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 22% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the Edelbrock Zinc Additive was added to it. Adding Edelbrock Zinc Additive SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware. 40. 30wt Lucas Break-In Oil conventional = 49,455 psi zinc = 4483 ppm phos = 3660 ppm ZDDP = 4000 ppm So, as you saw above, the highest ranking high zinc oil that provided the BEST WEAR PROTECTION of this group of 40 high zinc oils, had 3000 ppm ZDDP. But, the lowest ranking high zinc oil had one third MORE ZDDP at 4000 ppm. Even though this lowest ranked oil had far more zinc in it, it provided LESS THAN HALF AS MUCH WEAR PROTECTION, making it by far the worst of all 40 oils tested. Then the 4th place oil had only 1100 ppm ZDDP, and the 7th place oil had only 1000 ppm ZDDP. |
Posted By: mark c
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 7:26pm
|
He has other lists and links to oil data from the manufactureres on that same thread so if you don't see you favorite oil, chances are its on that 8 page thread somewhere. For ex. heres the data on the mobil 1 15W50 oil that was mentioned above (if it was synthetic), its on the first page of that thread, it was 10th ranked in that group of 13 oils, and 21st on the big list above. 10. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN = 70,235 psi (32.4% below no.1) zinc = 1133 ppm total detergent = 1437 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 1.3 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2013 at 8:02pm
|
I don't care what Cory has to say. I'm sticking with the ZDDP in the 54, 64 and 77. BTW Cory, I have seen several trashed cams when run without ZDDP and this was AFTER they were broken in. Two were out of Chris/Hercules and a third out of a Gray/AMC. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |