Drive shaft straightening ??
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30057
Printed Date: November-15-2024 at 12:18am
Topic: Drive shaft straightening ??
Posted By: shagit
Subject: Drive shaft straightening ??
Date Posted: May-31-2013 at 11:32pm
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It appears the prop end of my (91 BF) shaft is tweaked. Water test earlier this week revealed a very slight vibration so when i spin the prop by hand, the threaded end is definetly off. I will try to load a video to show. This is a boat I'm restoring. To the eye, the rest of the shaft (strut to through hull) appears very true. |
Replies:
Posted By: Bones71
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 12:43am
| Shag, I just hit something last week and to the "eye" everything looked good. With a dial indicator it was horrible. You will want to look into the shaft allignment video and do some checking. Bones. |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 2:20am
| Thanks Bones. Yeah, like I said, i'm just fixing her up, so I think I might end just getting a new shaft..... Not sure if these can be trued up.... I know it's 1 1/8", but I need to check the length... |
Posted By: Bones71
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 2:26am
| I'm in the same boat. Sorry for the pun. I called SkiDim and asked them what I needed and they got me going in the right direction. Mine was 51 inches. Some of the guys who work there have Nautiques. I wasn't sure who else sold the ARE double taper shaft. I am also going to try and straighten the old one. I have spent the last 30 days going over the whole boat and trailer. It can be a little overwhelming but there is a lot of help on here. |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 2:29am
| Yes there is a lot of help here. I just found out mine is 54" and is around $360 new..... Hate to have to spend it..... I might see if there is a local shop here in Orlando that straightens them.... A machine shop maybe.... |
Posted By: Bones71
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 2:37am
| I think some prop shops specialize in shaft straightening also. Not sur but I think so. I'm tryi g to do as much as I can on my own to save cash and learn too. Good luck. Bones. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 9:10am
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If you buy a new shaft, take the opportunity to correct the shaft length (minimizing strut to prop clearance). This will improve performance and reliability. On the excels especially, it will open up your prop choices (stock length shaft is so long that it causes prop to rudder clearance issues with many aftermarket props). ------------- |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 11:48am
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If you have occasion to come south I have the best prop and strut guy I have ever worked with in Fort Myers. And i have used every one on both coasts from ski boats to 60' wheels and Kort nozzles. I feel it is worth the trip. Your running gear will be absolutely perfect. This guy is nutty. My little shaft came back spoon cut and knurled with a pinned key. These are things you just simply do not see in itty bitty running gear like ours. He also straightened my strut that was out about 10mm with a slight twist and took the prop back to the original blue print. I took the opportunity to install the white OJ bearing and I like it but to be honest I have only about 20 hours on it so far. 1)As Tim stated, check hub to strut clearance and report back with the measurement to establish if a length adjustment should be done. 2) Unbolt the coupler and slide the shaft log fwd to check strut alignment. Check strut bearing condition. If not perfect, unbolt the strut. Put all parts in your car and drive to Fort Myers to M&M machine on Metro Pkw. Talk to Lynn or Dan and tell them John Campbell sent you. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 12:06pm
| I'm sure John's guy is good, but after taking the shaft out of mine I guarantee you that you want to just replace it with an ARE. Its so much more of a process to get it out than it was with the DD. Has to go out the back and the rudder had to be pulled and the boat had to be lifted off the trailer. Any thing that speeds up the process is good, I didn't do it all at once, but figure on a half day min just to get to the point where you can pull it. |
Posted By: Bones71
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 1:09pm
| With the original shaft you have to remove the rudder? I didn't know that. Taking the boat off the trailer is no biggie for me but removing the rudder? Is that a big deal? Bones. |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 1:58pm
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Thanks for the great info! The rudder is not a big deal to pull. Remove the safety wire (don't lose) remove the top and tiller arm bolts (block up the rudder so it doesn't fall out) and then slowly remove it. Sounds as though I might be better off buying a new shaft. How do I tell if the strut bearing needs replacing? How much are they - should I replace it anyway with shaft out? Thanks! |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 2:33pm
| Bushings are $65 I think, might as well replace while you're there and have access. Possibly a dripless packing too or at least some goretex rope that doesn't leak much. The Vdrive coupling is a pain to get loose, but seperateing it from the transmission and lifting it out is easy, there's a place on top for a lift ring. A 2x6 across the top of the gas tank makes a nice seat and watch out for the angle that holds the floor up, it will grab your calf when you stand up. |
Posted By: Bones71
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 2:35pm
| Shag, I ordered new strut bearings with my new shaft. I figured since I had it out I might as well. I think mine are original. They seem fine though. I ordered the Vesconite ones from SkiDim. Go to YouTube and watch the video correct craft alignment. |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 3:12pm
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Tx, Lifting ring for ? I don't have to take the tranny or v-drive loose do I? And other than getting the tool ski dim has, is there an easy way to remove/replace the strut bushing(s)? Sorry for all the questions..... Replying from mobile :/ |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 3:45pm
| The tool is for the ARE shaft (tapered on both ends). Unless its been changed you have a regular shaft that will require the coupling to be pulled of with a gear puller or pressed out with the socket trick. I think you'll opt for the gear puller and Vdrive removal once you see what kind of acces you have. Getting the coupler back on is another can of worms where the Vdrive will be in the way. If my project handn't already gone so far over budget and taken longer than I wanted I wouldn't have thought twice about changing it out. I also know that I'll have the opportunity again with a future project that I'm planning. |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 4:43pm
| So there's not really away to change the shaft without pulling th v-drive? Ugh |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-01-2013 at 5:14pm
Not true on all boats. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Bones71 wrote:Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-02-2013 at 10:57pm
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Trbenj, so if my stock shaft is 54", what should I get? 53"? I thought it looked like it stuck out a long way past the strut... Might be why it got tweaked... I really don't want to pull the vdrive out - never done that before.... |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-02-2013 at 11:00pm
| It actually looks like there is enough room under the vdrive .... I can get wrenches on the coupler nuts... Anything special to watch out for? |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: June-02-2013 at 11:23pm
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If you are replacing the shaft the only tool you need in there is a cut off wheel or sawz-all. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-02-2013 at 11:26pm
Ding ding ding..................winner! |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-02-2013 at 11:47pm
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Lol, I guess your right. Then that coupler will come right off! Then I can take it to the bench to remove the rest of the shaft... |
Posted By: Bones71
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 12:00am
| Ok I have a question. When removing the flange.... Do you need to use a better grade bolt? I read that somewhere on here. A grade 5? Or just a fine threaded bolt? |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 12:10am
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A grade 5 fine thread will work fine. Anymore tension than that can handle will distort the coupler. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 12:37am
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So I measured and have 1 1/4" from strut to prop hub.... Aft prop hub to rudder is about a half inch.... Got your PM Txfoil, thanks! |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 8:14am
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Shoot for 1/2" of clearance from strut to prop hub. ------------- |
Posted By: hotboat
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 10:15am
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This may be too simple of a fix but how bout having the taper ground further up the shaft and adding washers to take up the slack? ------------- Brian |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 10:20am
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If you have the shaft and coupler off anyways, its easier to just chop a bit off the non-tapered side than it is to re-grind the whole taper. In this case, the original poster's shaft is toast, and he's buying new anyways. ------------- |
Posted By: hotboat
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 10:50am
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I was thinking the shaft could be saved by moving the taper up. Does anyone know the Rockwell of the shaft? ------------- Brian |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 3:40pm
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I'm going to try and remove the shaft (today hopefully) so I can confirm the length before I order a new one. In addition, with the 1 1/4" from strut to prop hub, I have about 3" from prop blade to hull surface - so I should be fine shortening the shaft about 1" if I'm correct. Thanks again for all the advice everyone! 
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 4:11pm
If you go any shorter than 3/8", theres a good chance you wont be able to fit a prop puller in there. Separating the coupling halves to swap props is a PITA. ------------- |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 4:17pm
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Good point TRBenj. I will get a shaft 1/2"-3/4" shorter than current. |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 4:37pm
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Her is one 53" but I think its for a pass through coupling like the Hurth gear. Not a face to face type. http://www.ebay.com/itm/GEKKO-SKI-BOAT-53-1-4-INCH-PROPELLER-SHAFT-AND-COUPLE-/370275212649?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item56361f5d69&vxp=mtr ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 9:19pm
It's truly amazing what you can find with the search feature!!!  
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 10:26pm
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Ok, got the shaft out tday, not as hard as I thought it'd be. Just took awhile to get all 8 coupler bolts off (2 open end wrenches at a 1/4 - 1/2 turn each at a time), it helped that I squirted some pb blaster the day before. Took the set screws and collar bolts out and then just started tapping with the hammer to get it moving. Once it would slide I tapped on the back of the coupler and was eventually able to slide the coupler off - not bad. I can roll the shaft on a known flat surface and it look just like the tip is off... I think I might take it to a machine shop to see if they can true it up.... |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 11:30pm
| Have that measured inside and out before you pay for anything. Mine took a gear puller to remove and fought till the last 1/4 inch. I forgot to do the socket thing before I pulled the motor, but with the limited access I do t think slowed the process any. |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 2:04am
| So if I can get this shaft corrected, what special things would I need to do for re-installing? I'm sure getting the coupler on the shaft will not be as easy as taking it off. And I know I need to confirm alignment once it is bolted in. Btw, the strut bearing is fine. There is very little if any play, and after removal, there doesn't appear to be any uneven wear. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 9:16am
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A good pair of oven mitts! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 8:22pm
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So I guess I'm going to get a new shaft. Should I get the one from nautique parts? Or the one from skidim? I know NP is a site sponsor, and it appears to be about $100 cheaper.... |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 8:35pm
Not true. With the coupling heated, it will be expanded and should slid on the shaft as long as you have things like the key prepped. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 9:10pm
Unless you know the EXACT dimention of the new shaft (shafting has diameter tollerances) and your coupling, don't use your old coupling. Remember it's an interference fit of .000" to -.0005". The easier way is to go with the ARE double taper shaft system. Then, you won't even need to heat shrink the coupling on. Billy and Karen distribute them. 318 386 2825 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 9:41pm
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So if I order am ARE shaft, I can order it 1/2" shorter ? And sorry for the question, but who are Billy and Karen? I also noted that before I loosened/removed my existing shaft, the coupler was flush all the way around - with the mount on the vdrive... Hoping things will be pretty easy to line up/adjust... Thank you! |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 10:17pm
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Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 10:51pm
Foilhead, always the optimist.. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 11:02pm
| Been there, done that and it's not like a DD. |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 11:06pm
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Can I buy you a beer?> ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 11:17pm
I'm good. I think I drank about a pallet or so doing the rehab, didn't speed the process any and now I probably need to go rehab myself. 
|
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 11:59pm
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I do try to be optimistic ..... So I just need to bake (the collar ;) in the oven a bit.... Like 200-300 degrees? For 10 min or so? Then quickly get it out to the awaiting shaft - and voila ! Excellent! Are there any disadvantages with the ARE shaft? Other than being $100 more? And it comes with everything I need? I ask too many questions don't I ...... |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: June-05-2013 at 12:03am
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Hotter and longer... But the ARE is probably worth the 100 clams once one factors in time, hassle and just old worn out parts. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-05-2013 at 12:25am
| The ARE just bolts right up with nothing more to buy, correct? And I guess I can get an exact length then as well... |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-05-2013 at 12:44am
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I did 20 min in the oven at 400 with a solo cup full of ice water on the shaft, I believe those are the standards posted around here somewhere. Also remember I had no Vdrive or motor in my way. Coupler was on a cookie sheet, saw horses set so I could set it down, jump in the boat, pull off the cup and grab the coupler. Buzzer went off, welding gloves on and I made it to the door before I burnt my hands. Now the coupling is on the porch 50 yards from the boat and I'm looking for oven mits. Found them, set the coupling on top of them a ran to the boat. It slipped right on, mybe 1/8 in short and that's it you do t get 2 tries. Good enough for me, the shaft was pulled out a little further before from a rope catch so I know the prop clears. Only thing I missed was being able to tighten the set bolt, had to drill another spot. If you figure you're going to have to make 2 attempts and that $100 isn't much. Once it touches the shaft the heat starts to transfer and the shaft expands every locks up, that's going to be difficult to get it lined up and slid on with the Vdrive in the way. I think I got a little lucky because we do this at work every now and then, I was familiar with the process before I tried it. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-05-2013 at 12:47am
I'm not 100% sure but I think you need to buy the tool that you use to seperate the shaft from the coupler ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-05-2013 at 2:05am
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I think all you need is the socket, it's thin and designed to fit between the couplings. They make some other things that make pulling the shaft and changing the strut bushings quick and painless, but I don't think you need them to put the shaft in. SKIDIM has the whole set up and a video of what to do on their site. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2013 at 6:02am
http://www.mycorrectcraftparts.com/" rel="nofollow - My Correct Craft parts ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: June-05-2013 at 8:08am
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Another cost justification for the ARE shaft is avoidance of the trip to the ER, when you get 3rd degree burns on your forearm. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-05-2013 at 5:13pm
Lol! True I have found a machine shop here in Orlando that straightens shafts! Actually turns out they have done a little work for Correct Craft before after talking with them. They said they can true it to the needed tolerance (less than .003) shorten it the half inch (including adding 1/2" to the keyway) and do it under $100. I will update when I get it back, should be early next week. Sackett machine on Old wintergarden road. |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: June-05-2013 at 5:35pm
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art cozier shop maybe? ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-14-2013 at 11:02pm
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So it doesn't look like they can straighten the shaft after all, the shop called today and said they can't get it past ten thousanths..... Soooo, guess I'm going to order an ARE.... :/ So much for my optimism..... Lol |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-14-2013 at 11:04pm
| Anybody know somewhere in central fla that stocks the ARE and around the same price? Was hoping to put a shaft in next week.... |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-15-2013 at 12:15am
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You want a custom length shaft that someone has in stock, ........ mmmm.....K Might notable as long as you think, probably drop shipped from ARE. |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-15-2013 at 12:17am
| Yeah I guess it's a long shot..... oh well. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-15-2013 at 2:52pm
Where was the shaft bent and did they say why they couldn't straighten it? Although I have had mixed results, (a bent shaft likes to go back to the bent position) I have never heard of shaft that could not be straightened. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-15-2013 at 4:19pm
| it's on the prop end, apparently near the start of the taper. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-15-2013 at 6:18pm
This would be the spot that would be the most difficult to get straight. It's a common spot to bend the shaft from a prop hit especially if the prop is extended beyond the normal distance behind the strut. The norm is 1 shaft diameter but lately Tim has been saying to cut that distance at least in half. I happen to agree since from a mechanical engineering standpoint, the shorter the distance the less overhung load on the shaft and the cutlass you will have. Hull clearance from the prop OD to the hull must be a consideration. I have a feeling that CC cheated on some hulls!! Art?? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: June-20-2013 at 7:00pm
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So I ordered an ARE shaft (they are actually supposed to be making me one 1/2" shorter next week), then I find out that the local machine shop was able to straighten my old one after all. I have a video of the shaft in the lathe with a dial gauge and it is damn straight. SO, now I have a dilemma... Do I call and try to to cancel the ARE? or keep that one coming and try to sell this shaft. I spent $100 and they even shortened it by the 1/2", cut the coupler end keyway 1/2" longer, and a new spot for the set screw. Next year I plan on removing the engine to dress it up. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: June-20-2013 at 7:14pm
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I think you can sell the old shaft for $100. Put in the ARE, you will be happy with that decision next year when you take it apart again. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: June-20-2013 at 7:21pm
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^ this ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-20-2013 at 7:23pm
I agree with Chris. You will love the ARE system plus, keep in mind:
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |