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fake a lake question

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30097
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 5:22am


Topic: fake a lake question
Posted By: firstboat1
Subject: fake a lake question
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 2:20pm
I looked for a thread that I could add to instead of starting a new one but oh well here goes...
I need to diagnose a fuel issue and need to run this thing in my driveway. I thought I would use the easiest and the most safe way possible. It seems to be the fake a lake. Question is there are 2 pick ups on the bottom of the boat. Does it matter which one it is hooked up to? May sound like a silly question but I am new to these boats and there may be somthing I am not considering.



Replies:
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 2:43pm
No need to buy a fake a lake(s). Yes you need to feed both sides of your pump or you will fry an impeller. Disconnect the two intake hoses at the thru-hulls. With a couple fittings form the hardware store and some extra hose, extend the length of those hoses so they can reach into a 5 gallon pail on your boat floor. Continuously fill the bucket as you run the motor.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12193&KW=bucket+method&title=bucket-method-for-driveway-running" rel="nofollow - bucket method

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“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 4:26pm
Larry's answer is the safe answer... but I believe there are other ways to cool a twin cavity Sherwood (Chrysler) while on the trailer. I had started brainstorming on how to do this on my '70 273, but didnt get around to it last year.

Chrysler's cooling system is pretty intricate- one of the impellers doesnt just pull from the cool lake- it pulls from the warm exhaust as well, IIRC. This increases the initial temperature of the water flowing through the block, and half of the pump will run noticeably warm to the touch.

Personally, I like to use tee garden hose fittings rather than dealing with plungers under the boat or removing the raw water pick up lines. They can be difficult to access and are notoriously tight on their fittings- total knuckle busters.

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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 4:43pm
I use a fake a lake and am faced with a similar situation as one of our boats has 2 pick ups. I bought a 2nd fake a lake and am going to run the garden hose into a Y and then to both fake a lakes.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 4:55pm
I want to say that Chris's '72 Chrysler had a single pick up and a tee to the 2nd impeller rather than 2 pick ups. If thats the case, then just teeing the 2 pickups together and running one garden hose fitting to it would seemingly work ok. Ive read too about too many failed fake a lakes (cracked plastic bodies causing cooling problems) to want to invest in one.

Im going to crawl all over mine and make sure I understand how the cooling system is working before I say for sure which way it can be done.

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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 5:03pm
Too many failed fake a lakes and cracked plastic bodies causing cooling problems? Sounds like the anti Fram campaign! I've been using them since long before they were invented when we'd borrower to toilet plunger to run the boat. They never failed either.


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 5:06pm
They are just more sensitive to "user error". The plunger has never, ever interested me.

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Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 5:08pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:



Chrysler's cooling system is pretty intricate- one of the impellers doesnt just pull from the cool lake- it pulls from the warm exhaust as well, IIRC. This increases the initial temperature of the water flowing through the block, and half of the pump will run noticeably warm to the touch.




Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:



Im going to crawl all over mine and make sure I understand how the cooling system is working before I say for sure which way it can be done.


Intricate is an understatement. To check my own understanding to verify my post was reasonable, I went to the manual. Several diagrams on the cooling systems. I don't get the line from the thermostat back to the water pick up? and had trouble following some of the other routes.

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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 5:17pm
It warms the raw water coming into the engine. Chris Craft did it too. Some say cooling your engine with pre heated water is better than cool water straight out of the lake.

Hollywood, I wouldn't think user error would be a concern of yours, and you could have a dedicated toilet plunger for the boat, so you don't have to share the one in the bathroom.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 6:09pm
Bruce, I was confusing the fake a lake and flush pro, my mistake. Many confirmed issues with the latter and its cheap plastic housing.

2 fake a lakes would work for a boat with 2 pick ups, but I'm convinced there's a better way to do it. Just need some time to figure it out.

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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 6:46pm
The only thing I don't like about Fake A Lake is that I didn't invent it.

If you come up with a better idea, let be know! 2 Fake a lakes is convoluted, but so isn't plumbing an Interceptor engine into Chrysler through hulls.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 7:15pm
Bruce, how would a fake a lake work on a v-hull? The intake grate is on a good angle and in close proximity to the lifting strake and trailer bunk.

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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 7:35pm
It works on my brother's Century Resorter which has a similar v hull and lifting strakes, but it is possible that it might not work on a BFN if it's too busy. Having the intake right over the axle or some other obstruction is a challenge, but I've never had one not work on boats I've worked on. I'm not crazy about crawling under the boat, but I can hook it up faster than messing around with hoses. Of course if you plumb in some sort of hook up and valve, it could be faster, but you got to drag the hose into the boat and do all that plumbing.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 9:55pm
My toilet plunger has never failed me!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 10:40pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Bruce, how would a fake a lake work on a v-hull? The intake grate is on a good angle and in close proximity to the lifting strake and trailer bunk.


Tried one once on my Southwind and couldn't get it to seal at all. Never tried on my Century. Have never owned a flatbottom, and never will, but it does seem like it oughta work easy on one of them, at least conceptually.

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1974 Southwind 18
1975 Century Mark II


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-03-2013 at 10:42pm
They were good for holding the canvas up too.


Posted By: gdenkman
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 2:37am
I made my own fake a lake with a plunger, a watts 3/4 adaptor LFA-679, a pair of Rigid steel 3/4 conduit locknuts, all from Lowe's. Total cost of $10.62 without tax. Took a 5/8 in wood drill bit and drilled a hole in the side of the plunger. Screwed one of the lock nuts onto the threads of the 3/4 adaptor. Forced the adaptor thru the hole in the plunger, this was the hard part, then screwed the other lock nut onto the threads on the inside of the plunger and it's been happy plunging, or flushing, ever since.   I place two pieces of wood beneath the handle of the plunger on the ground and slide the top one inboard to tighten the unit against the hull. I load/unload while warming up or flushing and have never had it move. When it starts to fail I'll just make another one.


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94 Ski Nautique


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 9:20am
I had made one too - Just got tired of climbing underneath to set it.

Last night, I helped my buddy with a 'Flush-Benj' for his SN - $14 in parts.

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: turningpoint84
Date Posted: June-26-2013 at 2:23am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Larry's answer is the safe answer... but I believe there are other ways to cool a twin cavity Sherwood (Chrysler) while on the trailer. I had started brainstorming on how to do this on my '70 273, but didnt get around to it last year.

Chrysler's cooling system is pretty intricate- one of the impellers doesnt just pull from the cool lake- it pulls from the warm exhaust as well, IIRC. This increases the initial temperature of the water flowing through the block, and half of the pump will run noticeably warm to the touch.

Personally, I like to use tee garden hose fittings rather than dealing with plungers under the boat or removing the raw water pick up lines. They can be difficult to access and are notoriously tight on their fittings- total knuckle busters.


Tim I should have searched this today, anyways i go with a garden T also.

I remove the single hose pickup and twist it around the bottom of the engine to where the 2 hoses are now close together. I think hook up the garden t there. The 3 hose that runs out of the engine T stat that circulates the water can just flow out of the bottom of the boat, so i leave that still hooked up.

I've never done the bucket method, it's not a bad idea either.

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Proud 1968 mustang owner and now
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6454&sort=&pagenum1" rel="nofollow - 1970 Mustang



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