Leakage :-(
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30112
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 5:23am
Topic: Leakage :-(
Posted By: JophWeud
Subject: Leakage :-(
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 4:03pm
Hi, still new on this forum and has to ask you who are CC professionals !
I have three places where I have found leakage this weekend when I put it in water (firs time where I bought it last autumn).
When I bought the boat there was no leakage at all, almost dry inside at the bottom, but dirty...
# Raw water intake leak with one or two drops when the valve is closed.
One drip is right on the plastic and the lowest nut.
The other is from the first thread.
How to tighten it?
# The stuff box on the shaft axle. It dripps frequently, both on the top ( towards the engine) and at the lowest part towards the prop as well.
Is it possible to tighten, or what do I have to do?
I have read that it is important to have the right temperature on the shaft at this part, I do not understand the function of the stuff box!?
# From the rear of the boat i can se thru the inspection hatch ( above the stuff box) that there is a smaller runnel coming from the rear and along the shaft.
My own suggest is that it has to come from the rudder...But i cant see anything where I have the gas tank under the rear seat.
Please I would like to have advice and pictures how it looks like, and what you pro´s think of my problem.
The summer just started here in Sweden and me and my three small guys (7,9,12) have been looking forward to go skiing...
Last evening i took her up from water where I do not dare to have her left alone , where the pump is going frequently and spits out a couple of deciliters every 30 minutes....
The boat is an CC SN 196 from y 2000, approx 800h.
Best reg, Joseph
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--I will never be a grown up....almost 40--
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Replies:
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 4:14pm
All very simple Joseph,
#1, you should take apart the leaky fittings, inspect for cracks and re-assemble using pipe dope or thread tape or even gasket sealer if you cannot find anything else.
#2 should be an adjustment. Loosen the thin not by turning it clockwise so it moves in an aft direction. Then tighten the the fat nut (by hand) until you get only a few drips a minute. Once running, you should be able to keep your hand upon it with only mild heat.
#3 if it is the rudder, the adjustment is the same as the stuffing box. Remove the center floor section to get access.
Water coming from the back may also be the exhaust or the speedometer tubes leaking.
Two hours work tops unless you need to replace the packing or fittings.
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Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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Posted By: JophWeud
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 5:01pm
Thanks a lot!
If I´m allowed to ask some more questions, where I´m really new on this...
# When losing and re-assable the raw water intake - do I have to take apart the exahust as well on that side to get enough space?
#What means with thin... and aft... ( I´m swedish and don´t really got the words..)
Does the boat has to be in water at this step/measure? What if it will be to tight/hard,?
# The rudder - do you mean that i see it without taking the gas tank away? :-):-)
(if so i think I can sleep tonight!:-))
Does the rudder has an stuffing box as well?
Additional.
Exhaust - do you mean that it may come from the rubber-flap in the end of the boat?
The speedometer doesnt work - so it may be a possible cause! Thanks!
Joseph :-)
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--I will never be a grown up....almost 40--
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Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 5:46pm
There is a very detailed description on how to adjust the packing nut for the shaft/stuffing box in the manual. The method is the same for the rudder (under the gas tank). You can find that here on page 5.4 complete with pictures: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/Downloads/2000%20Owners%20Manual%20Ski.pdf" rel="nofollow - Owners manual
Welcome to the site!
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Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique
My Dad's 63 Ski N
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Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: June-04-2013 at 6:23pm
Our Swedish is not as good as your English!
Some water in the boat is normal.
The "stuffing box" is the 2 big nut(s) inside them are packings -rope pieces inside the big nut at the shaft and rudder which seal out water, yes you adjust these in the water, they need to drip a little, too tight won't let them cool and will cause damage.
you need 2 big wrenches to back off the thin nut from the thick nut. Do not use the wrench to tighten the packing, go as tight as you can by hand. ...run it around the lake and check it...maybe have to tighten or loosen depending on if it drips too much or not...it must drip some.
it is usually best to have engine cover and rear floor out of boat to see and work on these issues.
take pictures of your boat and engine and upload them here and ask as many questions as you need to ask.
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This is the life
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Posted By: JophWeud
Date Posted: June-05-2013 at 1:19pm
Thanks for good advice!
I will be trying to check this during the weekend.
If it is the packing - do I have to take away the parts complete to put in new ones?
( I guess new packing has to be done on the trailer?)
The exhaust - rubber flap at the end, should I use some sealant around the exhaust/rubberflap/hull?
what is the best type of sealant to use outside the hull
(planning to take away the speedometers tube, where it doesnt work, and as baitkiller said, might be a cause of leaking!)
/Joseph
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--I will never be a grown up....almost 40--
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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: June-05-2013 at 4:21pm
The best sealant to use is 3M 4200 (urethane) or equivalent. If your exhaust port is leaking, it would be best to separate it from the hull & put the sealant under the flange.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2013 at 7:38pm
Joseph,
Since you are over in Sweden, one of the Sika polyurethanes would probably be easier to find than the 3M 4200.
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete
<
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Posted By: JophWeud
Date Posted: June-06-2013 at 5:32pm
Yes, sika is more common here in Sweden:-)
Have a couple of 3M 5200 - is it bad to use that?
(Do not know the difference between 4200 and 5200)
/ Joseph
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Posted By: JophWeud
Date Posted: June-06-2013 at 5:41pm
Went down to the boat today to check what I have to to this weekend....
# I think how to tighten the stuffing box...
# The rudder is hidden under the gas tank and far rear in the boat. Guess I have to loosen the gas tank completely ?? Or is it possible to just loosen and push or pull it forward ( seems to be some kind of alu rails?, Anybody knows, where the gas tank is filled up at the time:-( )
# 3M 5200 for the raw water intake - is it appropriate to use between the nut and the hull, and also on the threads?
/Joseph
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--I will never be a grown up....almost 40--
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-06-2013 at 7:44pm
Joseph,
The difference between the 4200 and the 5200 is pretty much the adhesive qualities. The 4200 sticks less and is easier to remove.
I've been able to get to the rudder port on some boats without moving the gas tank. It's pretty much by feel if you can get your hands back there but for just tightening up the packing is doable. Yes, you can 5200 on both sides. Don't worry about the threads on the nut. It's just there to pull the intake tight to the hull.
I would use the 5200 on the intake since the chances are low that it would need to be removed. Even if it had to be removed, a hot wire cutter can be used.
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete
<
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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: June-06-2013 at 8:39pm
Joseph - Bilge cleanout is a good idea before working on the rudder packing - You will end up horizontal in the bilge! But it can be done.
I assume you know the rear floor comes out easily . . .
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin
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Posted By: JophWeud
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 6:27pm
Think I found one of the leakage today, could not sit at the work and wondering so I went down to the harbor ....
There was still water in the large exhaust part ( which have two connections in front and one in the end, dont know the eng word...). When I disconnect on one side to fix the raw water intake, I saw water in a minor runnel from the exhaust, from the bottom, just after the tube were the hose is connected... I lifted it up a bit and it stopped, let it dry in the sun, than took some fiberglass compound/selant in two layers . Did not see any holes, but it was leaking from a specific area. It will dry until tomorrow, and I will put a third layer onto it. Now hoping that I have found and fixed the major leakage... Still praying that not will be the rudder...can not reach it without taking away the gas tank...
Tighted the raw water intake as well, put some sealant between hull and the flagne. Also putted some sealant onto the shread as well as under the first pipe, where i couldn't move it with a pipe wrench ... ( I´m not strong enough I guess:-) )
Still have to tighten the stuffing box, which I will do when its back in the water....But still dont really now how to do. Do I have to loosen the thin nut, rear from the big nut with the eye with the wire?
How much do I have to loosen the thin one, clockwise?
And if I will loosen the thin, then I will tighten the big nut by hand, but will that not be tighten as much as I have loosen the thin... didnt really get the function of those...
Is there anyone who can explain it very clearly to me? I Guess that I dont get the details enough cause of the language..:-(
// Joseph
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--I will never be a grown up....almost 40--
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 7:17pm
Joseph,
The thin nut on the packing gland is simply a jam (lock) nut. Tighten the big nut by hand if you can. It's doesn't take much to tighten the packing inside if it's still good. The key is you do not want the gland (the packing assembly) to run hot. If it does and you still have excessive dripping (more than about 4 drips per minute), than you would need to install new packing.
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete
<
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Posted By: JophWeud
Date Posted: June-26-2013 at 5:02pm
Now after à couple of weeks.... Repaired the muffler which was one of the causes of the leakage. Still get some water from the back, can not see from were:-( probably the rudder packing...
Maybe a stupid question reg the shaft stuffing box: the drips, will they drip always (4-6/minute) when the boat is off as well as when you run the boat, or???
I have tighten the big nut, it has stopped the runnel, drips now approx 5 drips per minute, with engine off.
Or does it will be drippless completely when its off??
/ j
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--I will never be a grown up....almost 40--
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Posted By: hotboat
Date Posted: June-26-2013 at 5:07pm
The driveshaft should always drip, the rudder can be no drip
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Brian
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