Copper reducer for raw water
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30152
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 6:48am
Topic: Copper reducer for raw water
Posted By: Riley
Subject: Copper reducer for raw water
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 10:10am
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Does anyone see a problem with using this part between the through hull and raw water pump. I have only been able to find these in copper and plastic. The plastic is too restrictive. I'm wondering if copper is too thin. Another option is galvanized pipe. Any thoughts? http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/VIEGA-PROPRESS-Reducer-1RPV5?Pid=search" rel="nofollow - http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/VIEGA-PROPRESS-Reducer-1RPV5?Pid=search |
Replies:
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 10:25am
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What are you trying to do Bruce? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 10:28am
| I'm trying to hook up 1 1/4" hose on the engine to a 1" through hull. I also have found pipe fittings in brass for about $100 and galv iron for $35. Maybe the brass pipe fittings is the way to go? |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 10:35am
| My 1in fittings on the through hull and the Vdrive had a piece of copper tube that was 1in outside and about 3/4in inside (thick wall). The hoses were clamped to the that, I'm guessing it was factory, I've never had any issues with it not cooling enough even running the dreaded 160 tstat in 90 degree water. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 10:55am
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Could you do this- 4429K743 from Mcmaster Car, 1 1/4 to 1" brass reducer thread that on to the thru hull then use 4568K242 1 1/4 pipe cut the threads off one side thread that into the above and then hose clamp the hose to that? If you could find bronze that would even be better. Last time I was at West Marine in Key Largo they had all kinds of bronze fittings ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 11:07am
West has them not cheap but the only thing between you and the bottom  307959 reducer 40.00, can't find a short piece of bronze 1 1/4 pipe on their site though---------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 11:07am
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Bronze is superior to brass? I can't thread it on the through hull, but I could get a 1" nipple and attach it with a short piece of hose. That would be a lot stronger than copper. No one makes a push on reducer in bronze, brass or stainless. Don, Are you saying that CC originally cranked a 1 1/4" hose down on a 1" fitting and it worked? |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 11:11am
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Bruce, My 73 has a http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIB-31298-ELKHART-PRODUCTS-CORP-EA-1X3-4-WROT-COPPER-90-ELBOW-COPPER-FITTINGS-/300904994461?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460f55d69d" rel="nofollow - copper elbow that is 1" OS dia on one side and 1 1/4" OS dia on the other. The 1 1/4" mounts to the water pump intake via hose. The 1" water pick goes to other. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 11:16am
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Yes bronze is prefered on thru hulls I think because it's stronger. That is what is used on the boats we have had. Post a picture of what you have,it's hard to visualize. I think I know what your trying to do,putting a Chrysler into something? I wonder if a Chrysler powered boat just used a 1 1/4 thru hull? Do you have dual thru hulls? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 11:22am
Putting a Ford in place of a Chrysler. One 1 1/4" coming off the engine and 3 1" coming through the hull. I want to use a reducer for the engine hose to the through hull and then just connect the 2 other through hulls together with a piece of hose. Steve, is that copper elbow soldered on? |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 11:24am
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How about this then- http://images2.mcmaster.com/Contents/gfx/large/5520k42p1l.png?ver=23117825" rel="nofollow - link 1 1/4 x 1 you could sweat short pieces of pipe on each end to clamp the hose to. A side to motor b side to thru hull. A good hardware store will have what you need. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 11:32am
| Gary, that's copper. In that case the push on reducer I originally posted would be better, which brings me to my original question of whether copper is strong enough for a reducer/connector and it sounds like it is. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 11:36am
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That's what it looked like to me, actually it would be more like 3/4 if you go by the inside diameter. The Vdrive has threaded bushings to get there, the raw water intake had a reducer like the pic. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 11:48am
| Mine is all 1in hose which I didn't really think was big enough when I got the boat, but I've never had any cooling issues and I run the same temps as everyone else. I think using the short pieces of pipe makes the hoses easier to get on an off and may be an easier surface for the hose to seal to than using a barbed fitting. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 11:54am
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I'm not a big fan of using special fittings like that. I'm sure it's ok but if I solder one together I can control the length plus I can get a replacement anywhere. You can see here where I used a 1" elbow and short 1" pipe to replace a special hose at the water pump exit. Now if needed I can get a straight hose at any Autozone  insteadof trying to find a 90 degree 1" hose.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 11:59am
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Looking over the specs of the fitting your looking at Bruce,it looks like they are talking 1 1/4 x 1" inside diamater not od,your hose might not slip on,especially if it's wire reinforced. Something to check out ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 12:40pm
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Woah, woah, woah... no need to reinvent the wheel here. Bruce, you should be able to get an off the shelf NPTxhose barb fitting that will attach directly to the pick up. Just gotta do a little measuring. The way CC did it was to put a union or an elbow (female thread) on the thru hull fitting, then shove the hose on and clamp it down. This stepped up the diameter to a bit beyond 1-1/4" and works (I have this set up on my Skier) though its a bit clunky. Ive been planning to install a NPTxhose barb fitting, but have not gotten around to it. Judging by the sizes charts Im seeing online, I would guess that the thru hull fitting has a male 3/4" NPT thread on it. Perhaps someone can confirm that. If thats the case, then going to 3/4" female union and then adding one of these fittings *should* work for 1-1/4" hose. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-barbed-hose-fittings/=n38ikk" rel="nofollow - McMaster 5346K94. ------------- |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 12:52pm
| This is one of those minor details that really slows a project down, (at least when I'm involved). I didn't know until after we put the engine in that we were dealing with 1.25" on the engine and 1" on the through hulls. There is not much room around the through hulls to work with and I'm leery of trying to bust loose those old brass fittings, other wise locating the reducer on that through hull fitting would be great. I'm looking for easy. I guess I will see if Grainger has the copper part and measure it. Seems odd they would make a push on fitting measured for the inside of the fitting and not the hose. If not I'll try buying the bronze reducer and nipples. Tim, I imagine I'd have to put a torch on those fittings to bust them loose? And there's no room to put a wrench on them. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 1:04pm
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Bruce, Ive never encountered one of those brass fittings that was stuck. I dont see why you'd need to take anything apart though. Just get a 90 degree female elbow and put it on the fitting on the left and then install the NPT/hose barb fitting (facing forward). ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 2:32pm
Thats because it's not a hose fitting,it looks to be a solderless connector to connect 1 1/4 copper to 1" copper, some goofy european system  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Riley wrote:Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 2:55pm
| I guess before I spend more money, I'll see if I can remove the short 1" pipe on the left hand connector. It is not threaded on the end, so I can't simply screw a female end on it and add a nipple to it like Tim suggests, but if that little pipe will come out, Hamilton's Marine sells a through hull fitting that will screw into it on the 1" end and has a 1.25" hose barb. It's an elbow too so will be perfect. I just have not wanted to mess with those old fittings. Tim, if your ears are burning this weekend, you'll know it's me. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-07-2013 at 7:25pm
Yes,  reducing barb fittings are available.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-10-2013 at 10:17am
| We were able to get that nipple off, although it did take some heat. No one has an adapter like that except McMaster Carr. It should work well. Thanks. |