Exhaust Hose off Riser 351 PCM 1985 SN
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30313
Printed Date: November-24-2024 at 10:27pm
Topic: Exhaust Hose off Riser 351 PCM 1985 SN
Posted By: granitesn
Subject: Exhaust Hose off Riser 351 PCM 1985 SN
Date Posted: June-17-2013 at 11:59am
| Hello. I am new to forum and found the information very helpful when looking to purchase my 1985 Ski Nautique. Details to follow but I am away from home and need to order exhaust hose that comes off the riser and connects to the muffler under the floor. My question is, is this hose 3" ID? The motor is a 351 PCM. Thank you. |
Replies:
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-17-2013 at 12:52pm
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This hose is most likely 3" unless someone made a change to things at some point. Do you know the length you need already? And, you mean muffler(s) right? The 1985 would have duel exhaust. |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-17-2013 at 12:59pm
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Like Brian said, it is 3", and it should be the wire reinforced hose. It is expensive stuff and also expensive to ship so try to find it locally first. It is $20/foot at http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MPI252-3000" rel="nofollow - Skidim . $133.50 for a 6-foot section at http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=11693&familyName=Vetus+Exhaust+Hose" rel="nofollow - Jamestown But... $14.75 per foot at http://www.n3boatworks.com/catalog_product_detail.asp?cat=5045-91691&product=873727" rel="nofollow - N3 where you can presumably use the 10% CCF discount. ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: granitesn
Date Posted: June-17-2013 at 1:15pm
| Hi Guys - thanks for the quick response. The SN is all original from stem to stern. The length of the hose is 33" and I was quite certain it was 3" but when I was getting ready to buy and saw how much the stuff cost I wanted to double check fearing that it might be 3.5" and in my haste to measure I didn't get it right. One side was replaced by the pervious owner. The hose comes off the exhaust risers on the motor (dual exhaust so one on each side) and connects (swan neck) to the fiberglass section under the floor which run horizontally to the stern and out the transom of the boat. I assume the fiberglass sections are the mufflers. This is what I was going to buy at $14.99 per foot (3') plus $10.95 to ship. Shields 3 in. Marine Corrugated Exhaust Hose 16-252-3000-1. Thanks again. I am so proud to own a SN. We are having a blast it. I learned so much from this forum and found a really good 85 for a very good price. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-17-2013 at 1:26pm
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3" corrugated hose is what you want... $15/ft (before the discount) from N3 is a great price. I assume that the section youre replacing is the piece between the riser and muffler. Dont forget that there is another short piece between the muffler and exhaust tip that is usually in even worse shape. Replace it all. ------------- |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-17-2013 at 1:31pm
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Tim - I've torn into 3 boats where the short piece connected to the tip is not the corrugated wire-reinforced type. I assume that's factory. Agree that wire-reinforced isn't needed there? Jeff - check those mufflers for cracks or damage. A lot of owners end up finding issues with them, which gives you a reason to dump the muffler and go with a 3" copper straight pipe exhaust. It adds a nice extra rumble to the sound and well, looks freakin' cool. Be careful with the corrugated pipe: you can cut it with a hacksaw but the exposed wires are sharp. ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-17-2013 at 1:38pm
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The factory didnt use the corrugated at the stern, I cant recall if it was wire reinforced or not. Either way, I'd recommend the use of the corrugated exclusively throughout. Its the best stuff available and the extra cost for such a short section is pretty much negligible. It also simplifies the ordering process. ------------- |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-17-2013 at 1:44pm
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Good point. When I bought my corrugaged it was from a local marina and he had 6' left so I got a deal on it. Wasn't enough to do the rest. ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: granitesn
Date Posted: June-17-2013 at 2:21pm
| I am so pleased with this forum!! The swan neck off the riser is what is giving me trouble at the moment. I patched it in two places so we could play over the weekend....just bought her last week so still sorting some of the minor issues like adjusting the stuffing boxes (drive shaft and rudder). I very quickly looked at replacing the rear sections that go into the transom but I wasn't sure if it could be done without pulling the gas tank. Need long skinny arms I guess. There does seem to be a small trickle of water running in the exhast channels (stringer sections) so the is likely a small leak somewhere. The leaks on the hose off the riser is most obvious with water splashing or flowing out the bottom. In any case, great advice and I will replace the mufflers with copper. I've been reading that is the way to go. I love the sound of this boat....nothing quite like it....I can't help to smile when I hit the throttle. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-17-2013 at 3:00pm
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If youre alright with adding some extra sound, then replacing the exhaust with one continuous piece of hose per side is the quickest, easiest and most likely cheapest route. Adding a section of stainless pipe would be the next easiest and cost effective. This will add some additional sound. Stainless tubing is sized to the OD, whereas hose is ID, so 3" of both flavors will play nicely together. Correct Craft used copper in the early to mid 70's, but finding a large piece of it these days will prove to be pretty darn expensive (nearly double the cost of hose per foot). It is also pipe and not tubing, so its OD will be a bit larger than the ID of your hose- so install is much less fun. Ive seen crinkled ends on a few boats, which probably made intalling them easier- but surely didnt help exhaust flow. ------------- |
Posted By: cphase
Date Posted: June-17-2013 at 3:13pm
+1 This is the way I have mine set up and I like the way it sounds! ------------- Thanks, Jeff http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6549" rel="nofollow - 82 SN http://www.archlinux.org" rel="nofollow - Arch Linux |
TRBenj wrote:Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-17-2013 at 3:41pm
|
Wow we have a lot of Jeff's on this forum. I'll second what Tim said about getting the 3" ID corrugated hose over the 3" ID copper... it was not fun. I did it on a 95+ degree day, ground the tops of the copper to allow it to slide on, and still struggled for a few hours. I also had to buy 12 feet of it, so I have one additional piece left. But, it does sound and look cool. ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: HatterBee
Date Posted: June-17-2013 at 5:32pm
I just did this very same thing over the weekend on my '77SN rebuild. I'm excited about it.  ------------- 1977 Ski Nautique Under Re-construction http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25004&title=1977-ski-nautique-rebuild" rel="nofollow - My Rebuild Thread |
Posted By: granitesn
Date Posted: June-18-2013 at 9:42am
| Thanks for all the informative replies. I did some research and the copper is very expensive. I like the stainless steel option for ease of installation or may just go corrugated the whole way. Still thinking the gas tank has to come out in order to do the transom pieces??? Great picture HatterBee. I love the older Nautiques. Quick, question unrelated to this thread: the white support holding the steering cable, is this supposed to have some horizontal play? Thanks again for all the throughful and informative replies. Best. Jeff |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-18-2013 at 10:45am
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Jeff - you can make those connections with the gas tank in, but it obviously is easier with it removed. I assume you're trying to get on the water ASAP so you should be able to do it with it still installed. There really shouldn't be any horizontal play in the white steering cable support. Make sure everything is tight. If you can't tighten the nuts, it may be an indication that you have some stringer rot where the mounting hole is (and beyond). Do what you can to enjoy the summer (safely) and start looking at those things closer in the fall. Post some pictures of your boat if you can. ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: granitesn
Date Posted: June-18-2013 at 12:08pm
| Thank you - regarding the steering support, the play is actually vertical, not horizontal (my mistake). The play is not where the mount goes into the stringer but rather on the end of the white post going into the larger portion having the 4 bolts which I would describe as a clamp of sorts. It does not move side to side but up and down slightly. I figured it was designed to do this as the clamp looks to be sort of sophisticated given its purpose. I don't get any steering feedback at any speed and it looks to be solid but I will take it apart to make sure the post is not broken where it mounts to the clamp portion. The vertical wiggle didn't concern me a lot but I wasn't sure if it was normal. I am an engineer so I am going over every inch of this boat....at the same time I want to be able to use it and have it be safe. As an added note, stringers where my biggest concern as I didn't want to have to get into a big job right away. I tap tested every inch I could get to and found no evidence of debonding. I also checked the motor mounts. I believe even the floor is original and still solid under the driver and passenger seats. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-18-2013 at 12:28pm
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The steering tube clamp block is a ball and socket mount, so it will move freely. ------------- |