Bilge pump problems
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30466
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 5:43am
Topic: Bilge pump problems
Posted By: tley424
Subject: Bilge pump problems
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 1:50pm
| I have been having some problems with my battery draining. I think my problem stems from the automatic bilge pumps. In my 98' sport there are two pumps in the bilge area, one in the rear of the boat near the rudder shaft, and one under the engine. Both pumps are automatic and are supposed to check for water in the bilge every few minutes. If there is water the bilge pumps it out. The pump under the engine seems to come on way to often and I think it is draining the battery. On a side note, in order for the bilge pump to operate automatically I have been leaving the bilge pump breaker on as well as the ignition breaker on as it seems to be the only way for it to operate in auto. |
Replies:
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 2:11pm
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your boat is taking on too much water. Sounds like everything is operating as it should ------------- |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 2:47pm
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Is the pump running when the bilge is dry? ------------- |
Posted By: tley424
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 4:01pm
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Hollywood, thats what I thought and as it turns out my prop shaft packing was dripping a little more than normal so I tightened it up to where it drops about 5 drops per minute like the spec calls for. If I don't run the boat for a week there is going to be water in the bilge with it dripping like that. Yes the bilge should clear it but there always seems to be like an inch of water in the low part that the bilge doesn't clear. Is that normal. Am I running the bilge correctly with the bilge breaker on and the ignition breaker on. Storm34 the bilge always seems to have a little water in the low part that the bilge doesn't clear completely. should I expect to see that area free of water. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 4:14pm
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yes the pump won't make it 100% dry, and the breaker does need to stay on. they don't draw much power ------------- |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 4:23pm
| Have the same type of pumps, sounds like the pump may have a problem if it's cycling on so often. If my boat was not on a lift I would almost certainly change those pumps to a float switch. |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 4:33pm
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The bildge pump will never get out all of water. A little sitting in the bildge is normal. Also, you should not have any water dripping when the propshaft isn't spinning. 5-6 drops/min. when running is normal. When you stop it shouldn't drip at all. I always set it to drip like that in gear and idling. Then take a high speed pass across the lake while monitoring it. You obviously need someone else driving to do this. Readjust as necessary. Recheck every couple of months or when you start getting excessive water in the bildge again. I'm not sure what switches you need off or on for the pump to operate automatically because I don't have a CC. It seems like the way you have your breakers set the pump would run continuously which would certainly run your battery down. If that's the case, I'm surprised that you haven't burned out the pump. Mine works perfectly with all switches off. When the water level gets too high, it kicks on until the float loweres enough to shut it off again. That's why they're called automatic. When I turn the switch on for the pump, it runs continuously until I turn it off. Someone else may have to confirm your switch settings. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: tley424
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 4:36pm
| I was thinking about going the float switch route because i have burnt through three deep cycle batteries with this problem. The batteries were under warranty but if i go through another one i'm out of luck. Any suggestions on float switches? |
Posted By: tley424
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 4:44pm
| Reading the post by backfoot, maybe thats my problem. I set the packing drip while stationary. Should I only get the dripping from the packing nut while in gear? If so then maybe I wouldn't have the excessive water in the bilge and then the pump wouldn't turn on as much. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 4:54pm
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if you are starting your engine with that same deep cycle battery it's more likely the cause of failure ------------- |
Posted By: tley424
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 4:59pm
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Not sure I understand hollywood. I am starting the engine with that battery. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 5:08pm
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deep cycle batteries are not made for starting V8 car(boat) engines so these bilge pumps are on a "timer" and not floats in automatic mode? that's strange. for sure change them to floats ------------- |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 5:21pm
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On my 04, I have the lowest end stereo and the 40W "amp" was wired in "hot" to the battery, before the ignition breaker. If I left the ignition powered, the battery would drain in 10 days....I though it was the bilge pumps.... You may wish to see if there is another (unexpected) source of draw..... I was surprised that there was a fused but un-switched circuit from the factory. Have you looked at a wiring diagram for your boat....or a stereo wiring diagram....or search for service bulletins on wiring issues? In 04, there was a bulletin from Correct Craft........... PN may have some diagrams for you....... ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 9:14pm
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Timothy, As mentioned, WHY are you using deep cycle batteries? Since you joined over 2 years ago, you should have picked up the issues with using deep cycles! You aren't visiting the site enough!  A bilge pump is not a big draw and will run off a starting battery. However, as HW mentioned, a deep will get killed with the high amp starting load of cranking over the engine.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: tley424
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 11:19pm
| Guilty as charged! haha i guess I haven't been visiting CCF enough over the last two years. I am currently running an optimax dual purpose deep cycle. 750 CCA and 870 CA. I guess I just thought that was enough to turn over the 351. |
Posted By: 89Martinique
Date Posted: June-27-2013 at 11:59pm
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That battery should do just fine starting your boat. PO of my CC put in a huge RV deep cycle/starting. About the same ratings as yours only different brad. Volts drop only to about 10.5 on voltage gauge. It was worse with the old plunger starter. But the mini starter pulls far less. I'd say your battery is plenty for starting. After all, my CC battery cover states: 370CCA for 351 Ford.....460CCA for 454 Chevy...... ------------- Current Boats: 1992 Supra Comp-TS6M PCM 351w HO Pro Boss Pro-Tec Ignition - Full Composite (no wood stingers!) 1989 (3rd Gen) Correct Craft Martinique B/R PCM 351w Power Plus 1984 E-Scow Keuka Lake, |