77 Tique clunk sound
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30629
Printed Date: April-25-2025 at 7:41pm
Topic: 77 Tique clunk sound
Posted By: Mille1sj
Subject: 77 Tique clunk sound
Date Posted: July-08-2013 at 12:00pm
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Hello everyone, I took our 77 Ski Tique out for a ride yesterday, after puttsing around for about 10 minutes, I started to get up to speed( about 50% throttle). It sounded like the engine reved fast, followed by a grinning noise and clunking. I immediately shut the engine down. It started back up fine, after about 20 sec of running, the grinding noise starts again. The boat also will not go forward or in reverse. I initially thought transmission(which was rebuilt last year) however the grinding sound still occurs if the boat is in neutral. I'm not sure what my next steps should be, any input or advice would be great. Also, no issues with running hot, oil looks good, trans fluid looks good, no odor of burning and no noticeable external damage. Thanks Steve |
Replies:
Posted By: Mille1sj
Date Posted: July-08-2013 at 12:03pm
| Sorry, I guess I should have mentioned, the engine is a Ford 302 PCM. No major repairs have been done to the engine. New carb in 2010, new thermostat housing, new plugs every year, new impeller, new risers and exhaust manifolds. Otherwise, the engine is original from 1977. |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-08-2013 at 12:45pm
When you rebuilt it did you install a new damper plate? ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Mille1sj wrote:Posted By: Mille1sj
Date Posted: July-08-2013 at 12:49pm
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When you rebuilt it did you install a new damper plate? [/QUOTE] I honestly can't say for sure, I had it rebuilt by a local boat dealer and repair shop. I can check the paper work from the rebuild and see if it says exactly what they did. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-08-2013 at 1:34pm
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Sure sounds like a busted damper ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-08-2013 at 1:54pm
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Agree with Eddie and HW... all symptoms point to a broken damper. Shame on whatever shop installed your freshly rebuilt tranny without doing the damper at the same time. Only a few extra minutes of labor and the part itself is only $90. It really should have been a no-brainer. Now the tranny needs to come back out. ------------- |
Posted By: Mille1sj
Date Posted: July-08-2013 at 2:17pm
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I just checked the invoice from the repair, all they replaced was the spring plate, two clutch plates and a new seal kit. Anybody know of a good boat mechanic in Michigan or northern Ohio? I live about 30 miles north of Detroit. Is this an issue with an old worn damper, or can this be poor quality from shop? I'm just curious if I should avoid having any further work done at this mechanic. Steve |
Posted By: Rick in MA
Date Posted: July-08-2013 at 2:23pm
| Tim, Where can I buy a dampener for $80. Everything I see on E Bay is $100 or more. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-08-2013 at 2:44pm
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Looks like ebasic updated their pricing... the high quality Sachs damper is up to $90 now. http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/ALTDA-106" rel="nofollow - Sachs Damper at ebasicpower ------------- |
Posted By: Rick in MA
Date Posted: July-08-2013 at 3:09pm
| Tim, Thanks $90 is still better than $100 ! |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-08-2013 at 3:21pm
Steve, A spring plate might be a slang term for the damper but I've never heard it called that before. However, if you have ever looked at a damper plate, I could see where somebody who is...shall we say....less than knowing, could certainly call it a spring plate. I really don't know for sure if a spring plate is a legitimate tranny part or not. Like Tim said, if they didn't replace the damper at the time, shame on them. We normally recommend that anytime somebody has to remove/replace the tranny do yourself a favor and replace the damper at the same time or you'll run into exactly what you're experiencing. Heard of it time after time. Your issue does sound exactly like a worn damper plate. Poor quality from the shop would be purely because they didn't replace it at the same time. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: July-08-2013 at 3:28pm
When you guys are talking grinding coming from the tranny it kinda reminded me of this.....  ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: Mille1sj
Date Posted: July-08-2013 at 10:55pm
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I pulled the starter today after work and found a lot of debris in the transmission. I called the place that did the rebuild, they said they couldn't cover anything because its beyond the warranty. It's pretty disappointing. We have put less than 25 hours on the boat since it was rebuilt. I'm going to try an talk to someone else tomorrow and see if they will at least split the cost of parts with me. |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-08-2013 at 11:16pm
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The tranny and the rebuild are fine. If you saw parts in the bell housing after pulling the starter, the damper probably looks similar to the pic that Tim posted. Put a new one in it and you're good to go. Exactly the reason that the damper should be replaced with every rebuild. Good luck talking to them. Hope everything works out for you. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Mille1sj
Date Posted: July-09-2013 at 12:01pm
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I have a few more questions for the group. Is this a job that I could tackle on my own or should it go back to a repair shop. I am a very mechanical person, I have hand built a ton of front axle, rear axle and transfer cases in trucks (I am a driveline engineer) but I know nothing about transmissions or engines. Also, are there parts that you reccomend that may be of better quality than others? Is there anythign that I MUST change while i have it apart? The model of my trans is 10-17-001. As usual, I appreciate all of the help. Steve |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-09-2013 at 1:39pm
This is the damper you need. Yes, if youre handy, you can absolutely tackle this yourself. There are a few tricks to pulling the tranny, installing the damper, reinstalling and then aligning the powertrain, but everything you need to know is right here on the CCF forums. ------------- |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-09-2013 at 1:53pm
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If you've done axles and transfer cases, you could do this easy then. You have to remove the tranny to get to the flywheel. That means that the two rear engine/tranny mounts need to come out and you'll have to support the engine when that happens. Put a bottle jack under the rear of each exhaust manifold or if you have a overhead support of some sort to hold up the rear of the engine up while the tranny is pulled. The hardest part is lifting the tranny out of the boat (it's about 100lbs.)but to replace the damper, you don't have to remove it completely. Just slide it back and out of your way enough to get to the bellhousing. Remove the bellhousing from the engine and then the damper from the flywheel. Replace and put everything back together. Make sure that you do a shaft alignment then. There is a FAQ thread here someplace that details everything for the tranny removal/replacement as well as the shaft alignment. If you can't find it I'm sure somebaody will be able to provide a link for you. Some of these guys have it saved for easy access a lot faster than I'll ever be able to find it for you. Get the damper from ebasicpower.com. Make sure it's a Sachs like Tim has linked above for you. Any questions and we can help you out. We've walked guys with virtually no experience through this without issue. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Mille1sj
Date Posted: July-09-2013 at 6:10pm
| Do you guys think I will need to change the fly wheel as well? Also, if I call skidim or ebasicpower, will they know what fasteners are needed base on my engine and trans? |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-09-2013 at 7:21pm
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When my damper let go, pieces of it wedged in between the flywheel and bellhousing and stopped the engine cold. I had to backup the crank bolt to free it up and it didn't scratch the flywheel. It gouged the inside of the bellhousing so bad that I had to grind several high spots down enough to make sure the flywheel cleared OK. I think you're flywheel will be fine. The only caveat would be if there are some missing teeth on it. Probably should replace it then. I would think the outer ring could just be replaced also. It would be easy enough to remove the starter and spin the flywheel beforehand to verify that. The damper bolts on my engine were shouldered and the head of one was pretty mangled. If I remember right I just went to Lowes and picked up some grade 5 bolts to replace them with. It's worked out just fine. I'm sure that some here would freak out having something other than factory equivalent bolts so I would think ebasic or Skidim would have them. I really don't know for sure. The bellhousing and tranny mounting bolts just reuse. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Mille1sj
Date Posted: July-10-2013 at 11:47am
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I am getting ready to order the new damper, does anyone know what bolts should be used, I would like to just order them when I order the damper? I have read the installation and service manuals and cannot find any specific bolt called out. I also assume that the surface between the engine and bell housing does not take a gasket? iIs this correct? I am starting with just ordering the damper,if I get into it and find that I need a new fly wheel or anythgin else, Ill order those at that time. If yuo think I should order anythign else from the start, I always appreciate your input. Steve |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-10-2013 at 1:21pm
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No gaskets you have worry about. Can't help with the bolts. My engine is a Chevy. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-11-2013 at 12:56am
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Ski Dim sells the damper plate shoulder screws, item #1520. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Mille1sj
Date Posted: July-17-2013 at 12:38pm
| I received the Damper and new bolts in the mail today,I will probably get started on the projet this evening once it cools down...its been pretty warm in Michigan. Does anyone have teh torque specs required for the damper bolts, bellhousing to engine and and any others? |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-17-2013 at 12:52pm
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http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html" rel="nofollow - Torque chart I think they are 5/16-18. Use dry grade 5. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Mille1sj
Date Posted: July-22-2013 at 12:27am
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Thanks again for all I the information and detailed instructions. I got the engine lifted and the trans pulled this evening. The new damper has been installed, the old one was very obviously damaged. I was going to put the trans back in this evening but I decided to clean it up and give it a fresh coat of paint. I did notice that the inside of the bell housing was quite dirty, some very dark oil residue, wasnt red like trans fluid and a lot of grime. Is it possible that I have a bad seal somewhere? I took a few pictures but I can't seem to upload them from my phone. I'll try to post them tomorrow. Thanks. |
Posted By: Mille1sj
Date Posted: August-07-2013 at 4:19pm
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I wanted to post an update and ask a question. Everything went great for the damper change, I appreciate everyone's input and tips. I did notice after I changed the damper that boat sounds a little different, like its running rough, has anyone else experience this? Also, I now have a small leak where the prop shaft enters the hull. Is this an indication of an alignment issue? I checked the alignment base on the threads I found on the forums. Didn't seem to have any issues at all when I put it back together. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-07-2013 at 4:26pm
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You might want to raise the idle speed - 650RPM is a good setting. Sounds like you need to tighten up the packing gland. Search for a 'how to' on the site, should be here somewhere. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-07-2013 at 7:15pm
Is a leak or just a drip? The packing is water lubricated so it does need to drip some. Even the newer GFO almost dripless packing needs some water. Have you ever repacked the gland? It's not an alignment issue since the gland is attached to the log with the flexible hose. However, how close were you able to get the alignment - I curious! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |