Heater
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31106
Printed Date: November-28-2024 at 9:38am
Topic: Heater
Posted By: mjohn1988
Subject: Heater
Date Posted: August-06-2013 at 12:32am
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I am trying to put in a heater and can not get enough water flow off the engine drain plugs. I purchased an auto heater core and mounted a fan on it. ------------- project man |
Replies:
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: August-06-2013 at 12:40am
| The heaters don't heat like a car, your only dealing with 150 degree water and it cools once it leaves the motor. Your return line needs to connect before the raw water pump, not enough circulation through the block. Adding a Y to the return line helps, Heatercraft make a fitting for that. If you're still lacking heat then a pump to circulate the water through the core is the final upgrade. |
Posted By: cooperlacy
Date Posted: August-06-2013 at 12:57am
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Where is the water leaving your engine? The hose going to the inlet of the heater core should feed from the intake manifold. As Don said, you can add a Y to water line right before the raw water pump, but this is only necessary if you are having trouble maintaining heat at idle. The suction of the raw water pump will help maintain flow at low RPM. I believe the location for stock heaters fed back into the drain in the bottom of the U-pipe. Boat water temp may only be 150°, but in my experience they are plenty hot. If I keep my feet near the vents of my heater for long at all, they get uncomfortably hot. Remember, 150° water is scalding hot and copper heater cores are quite efficient, especially with the relatively low air flow in a two vent system. Cooper |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-06-2013 at 11:12am
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That's not much better than "boat won't start". Going to be hard to help you with such little information. ------------- |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-06-2013 at 11:39am
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plumbed mine to the 1/4" npt port on the water pump, and the top of the intake, like ford did with their cars and trucks. Plenty of heat any rpm. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: mjohn1988
Date Posted: August-06-2013 at 11:01pm
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I have tried hooking the heater up to the two drain plugs, off the manifold, and off the water pump. The flow seems to be the same on all. I currently have the heater hooked up to the drain plug on the passenger side. the return is just before the raw water pump. this seems to be working okay. It seems a lot of the heat gets lost through the air hose I purchased at skidim. I moved the heater about 2 feet closer and that seems to work. Let me know what you experts thing. ------------- project man |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: August-07-2013 at 10:08am
| I run mine out of the same hole as the t stat sender, that's as warm as it gets. the hose looses a lot of heat on the way to the core so I wrapped it in pipe insulation from the back of the motor as far forward as I could get (v drive is a much longer run). That helped some and I'll go back and add some from where it comes through the floor to the core at some point. An IR thermometer is very handy to tell whats hot and where it cools off. I get about 100 degrees at the vent after 12ft of heater hose and 4ft of flex tube. Trapping the air is important otherwise your driving a convertable with the heater on low at best. We use fleece blankets that are nylon on one side, they work great with a hot tube underneath. When I drive I just stick a hot tube in my fleece pants by my ankle. |
Posted By: mjohn1988
Date Posted: August-07-2013 at 10:36am
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Thank you everyone for your help. I am thinking of tearing out the stringers this winter. I read some guy named bill used epoxy resin instead of polyester. It sounds like it worked. Any thoughts. I like epoxy much more than polyester. I guess I do not like the cost. Any thoughts ------------- project man |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-11-2013 at 4:42am
You aren't doing enough searching and reading the great stringer job threads that are on the CCfan site.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
mjohn1988 wrote:Posted By: shagit
Date Posted: August-12-2013 at 12:43am
| I wonder if a heater core (the fan unit) could be mounted somewhere in the aft (for those of us with V-drives) Might make the hose runs shorter (less heat loss). But I wonder if it's not a good idea to have fan/another possible ignition source, in that area..... Any thoughts?? |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: August-12-2013 at 10:39am
| The fan isn't made to be mounted in the bilge and I believe there is a warning sticker that says it's not ignition protected. On the Barefoot / Excel I think you would loose more heat throug the long runs of dryer hose to the front if you could mount the core in the back. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-12-2013 at 10:42am
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How about this, would move mega air & no sparks http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/edl-1552_w.jpg" rel="nofollow - Charger  ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 05 210
Date Posted: August-12-2013 at 10:39pm
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The heater in my Vdrive is mounted behind the driver kick panel. Plenty of heat, even at idle Mike ------------- http:/diaries/details.asp?ID=2219" rel="nofollow - Air Nautique 210 Team 640 hours, not 1 regret |