83 Ski Nautique 2001 Problems
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31243
Printed Date: September-25-2024 at 10:27am
Topic: 83 Ski Nautique 2001 Problems
Posted By: Mike26
Subject: 83 Ski Nautique 2001 Problems
Date Posted: August-18-2013 at 12:19pm
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Hi, I am brand new to the forum and boats in general. I recently found a '83 Ski Nautique 2001 for sale on Craigslist (..I know, craigslist) and the boat appears to be in awesome physical condition. The hull of the boat and interior are in great shape for an 83 and the only problem I could find with the interior was a soft spot in the floor on what appears to be an access panel (where the engine cover bolts to the floor, and there is also a view port for the prop shaft). Well yesterday I met with the owner 100% ready to purchase the boat, but I had to see it perform on the water before I could pull the trigger on the deal. We took the boat to the lake and it started up after a few attempts and once it was warmed up, it seemed to run just fine. Maybe idle was a little high, but nothing outrageous. When driving the boat, it would only get to a top speed of about 18-20 mph and it took quite a while to reach that speed. The RPM gauge in the boat was not working so I don't know exactly what the engine was running at, but it sounded as though it was revving quite high but just barely moving. (there were three people in the boat and the water was smooth). After getting the boat out of the lake, I checked the engine oil which was full and seemed fresh and the transmission oil was pink and appeared full. The transmission dip stick did have a white residue at the top rubber seal of the dip stick which seemed concerning. Sadly I was not able to part with my money on this boat because of this problem but I do still want this boat. I was hoping maybe there would be some insight into what could possibly be causing these problems. Thank you for any possible help. ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Replies:
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: August-18-2013 at 12:59pm
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700 bucks plus shipping plus maybe another 150 for a new cooler, 150-200 for a new drive coupling and you are in business. The gear has water in it. Most likely caused by a bad cooler. Rebuild the gear, replace the cooler and replace the drive plate as due diligence, then watch the Professors alignment video. You may also want to check out the stringer inspection tutorial. Second, thought.... read the entire FAQ section. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: August-18-2013 at 3:01pm
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Sounds like the boat has a whole list of issues. Which could quickly get expensive. |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: August-18-2013 at 3:26pm
Ok great thanks for the responses. So the boat is looking at a new transmission at the bare minimum. Is that the most likely culprit of these conditions based on the semi vague info I was able to provide? Sorry, I am new to boats and don't mind picking up a weekend project, I just don't want to get too far over my head.     Here are some pictures of the boat, because I know everyone loves pictures. ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: August-18-2013 at 4:14pm
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Before spending money on a VelvetDrive, I would give it a fluid change and make sure it is fully clicking into the forward detent. Check the fuel tank for water and get rid of any old or bad gas and filter. It probably needs a complete tune-up and a carb re-build. |
Posted By: Lakeview
Date Posted: August-20-2013 at 6:48pm
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Unless your handy,your looking at a min of $1500. For the work that presents now,however I would be suspect on wet foam and a compression check on the engine.Good luck ------------- Lakeview 1992 Barefoot Nautique 1967 Barracuda SS 1967 Chris Craft Cavalier |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: August-20-2013 at 7:40pm
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Well I made the owner an offer which he for now has passed on. I brought to his attention the issues with the boat but he is set on that the problems are due to the boats propeller pitch being wrong and claims with a new prop the boat will go much faster. Not falling for that one. I told him my offer stands so we will see if he gets back to me or finds someone to sell it to that doesn't want to lake test it... He was able to provide paperwork from a boat inspection he had performed on the boat when he purchased it (which was only 2 months ago...) which shows compression being 120-135 on all cylinders. Here is also a picture I forgot I took showing the stringers and engine mount. This looked slightly suspicious to me but felt solid. Maybe someone with a better eye for these things can chime in. Thanks  ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-20-2013 at 11:16pm
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Funny how sellers will claim a problem can be repaired inexpensively, but they don't get it fixed. Good move passing on the boat. There are many very well maintained bots that come up for sale. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: August-20-2013 at 11:48pm
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That tower is enough to make me run from it. I also see orange. Donald |
Posted By: granitesn
Date Posted: August-21-2013 at 11:54pm
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Be patient and keep looking. Took me a few years to find mine. I lucked out with a turn key boat, 1985 SN 2001 that I purchased for $4000 on the factory matching trailer. It needed some cosmetic TLC (wet sand and wax and pinstripe). I am dealing with, what I hope is a minor starter issue but we put nearly 40 hours on the boat this summer and only needed to put gas in her. Good luck and happy hunting. The thrill is in the hunt! ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique (my first and only) Correct Craft - "there is no substitute" |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: August-26-2013 at 1:11am
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Ok well the seller of the boat contacted me today and he is willing to take what i considered to be a fair offer on the boat knowing the mechanical problems. Guess I will have a winter project on my hands to get this up and running for the spring. I shall be visiting the forums much more frequently now as it appears tomorrow afternoon I will officially own a Ski Nautique ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-26-2013 at 9:49am
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Congratulations on your purchase. the good thing about an inboard is they are easy to work on. The tranny is best sent to a shop for rebuild, but it is only a 2 hour job to remove it. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: August-26-2013 at 4:25pm
congratulations! welcome to the club   |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: August-27-2013 at 3:28am
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Picked it up this evening and got it all the way back to the house. Took the tower off and somehow managed to get it in the garage. let the fun begin! ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: August-30-2013 at 11:27pm
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Ok tonight was the first night I got to take a look at the boat since getting it inside the garage. Messing around with the boat and checking out the throttle linkage to the carburetor and it appears that when the throttle is all the way, it is barely moving the carbs throttle plates. They are just barely beginning to open even though the throttle is all the way forward. I can physically open the carb throttle plates all the way, so I am pretty confident that there is a linkage problem going on and that could be a very good reason why the boat was so slow when lake tested. I was wondering if this is a common problem (maybe slack in the linkage) or just some simple adjustment. Also, any recommendations on a new alternator? mine tested at a whopping 6.5 volts so its going in the garbage. ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-30-2013 at 11:43pm
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Mike, Do a search as well as looking in the reference section for your helm control problem. I have a feeling the PO had it apart and didn't put it back together correctly. They can be tricky! On the alternator, All it needs is a new diode bridge!!! Who told you to throw it out- The kid at Autozone?  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-30-2013 at 11:55pm
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+1 on what Pete says Mike. Up in our area you can get them rebuilt cheaper than new,but thats not true everywhere. It also has to be a marine one. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-31-2013 at 2:57am
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Check out this http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13524&title=throttle-cable-linkage" rel="nofollow - Thread . The linkage barrel may be broken. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: September-11-2013 at 12:52am
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Ok another update. picked up a new ball joint linkage to go between the throttle linkage and the carb so now the throttle plate opens all the way when the throttle is depressed. I just disconnected the perfect pass for now, that was the problem not allowing the boat to go full throttle. I dropped the alternator off at a highly reputable shop in Dallas this morning and they are rebuilding it so that it will be good for 135 amps and it should be done by tomorrow. I will be putting the boat back together this weekend and hopefully doing another lake test sometime soon ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: September-11-2013 at 1:02pm
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I'm still stuck on your tranny fluid. You said it was pink and full. By pink, do you mean a clear pink to red color or do you mean milky pink like a strawberry shake? Everybody here immediately translates pink to milky pink, not clear pink. Two completely different pinks with completely different meanings. Although technically a clear pink is actually red but someone less informed could call it pink. Just wanting clarification. Nice find with the throttle plates not opening all the way. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: September-11-2013 at 10:00pm
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The fluid is a clear pink the way ATF fluid should look, but on the underside of the dip stick (rubber gasket) there is a white residue. I removed the fresh water hoses to the transmission cooler and put a flash light down it and it looked just fine, but I wasn't 100% sure what I should be looking for with the cooler. The throttle is pushing the transmission into gear fully. ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-12-2013 at 6:59am
A pressure check is the only way to see if the tube in shell trans cooler is still good. Looking into it will not indicate the integrity. Pressurize the oil side and stick it in a bucket of water and then look for bubbles. What you did notice on the the bottom of the dip stick may just be from condensation but you want to be sure. Check the cooler and do a fluid change. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Mike26 wrote:Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: September-12-2013 at 10:25am
Then disregard everything everybody is saying that the tranny and/or cooler needs rebuilding/replacing. Go run it and check it again to verify that the fluid remains clear and RED (get off the pink thing...pink is bad) and there are no leaks. If that checks out OK, change the fluids and you're good to go. Don't worry about it. Like Pete said, the small amount of white residue is probably just some condensation. This thing sat for a long time and I would consider that normal under those circumstances. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: September-12-2013 at 10:28am
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Condensation always collects at openings for some reason instead of exiting through the vent. The 03-08 Chrysler would get this nasty frothy stuff on the bottom side of the oil fill cap because it was up high. Go with what Pete and Eddy said. ------------- |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: September-15-2013 at 2:09am
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Ok did some work on the boat today, got the rebuilt alternator on it, redid the fresh water pump and was able to fire the boat up in the garage after a couple of tries. I did notice something interesting which was when the boat was in neutral the prop was spinning as tho it was in gear at idle, but when i would just barely mess with the throttle the prop would stop spinning and sit there as it should at idle in neutral. I am guessing the linkage is improperly set up, but how much movement should it take for the boat to go in and out of gear? it was just barely a 1 degree difference on the throttle and it would click into gear and allow the prop to spin. Seems like it should take more movement, but what do I know ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-15-2013 at 9:34am
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Mike - The prop spinning in neutral is called a 'dirty neutral' - my boat also suffers from this. It is caused by warped clutch plates. The fix is a tranny rebuild. Just live with it unless it causes a safety problem at the dock during warmup. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: September-15-2013 at 12:15pm
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But there is a small position where the throttle is set where the prop does not spin at all, it will remain completely still. Still falls under the category of warped clutch plates? ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-15-2013 at 1:31pm
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Mine does the same thing - When I give it some throttle in neutral the prop stops spinning. I assume the tranny pump has more pressure & releases the clutches. It's been this way since I bought the boat 6 years ago & hasn't gotten any worse. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: September-23-2013 at 1:22am
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(Short Version): Is this prop repairable or total crap and what should be done to fit this item that aligns the prop shaft under the boat? Just new bolts and some sort of adhesive? (explanation on what happened): All right, took the boat out today and brought 5 buddies along and we had a blast wake-boarding for about 4 hours this afternoon. Everything was running pretty well on the boat once we got the idle adjusted and the boat was accelerating just fine. Took it up to about 35mph at one point but we were mainly cruising between 20-25. The raw water pump was leaking a little bit but nothing that the bilge pump couldn't handle every 30 minutes or so. So, we were cruising in the main part of Lake Lewisville towards the end of the day and the depth meter was reeding 35-40 feet deep. Cruising at about 25 mph with everyone on board and all the sudden there was a loud BANG and i stopped the boat asap. It was vibrating like crazy when in drive but just fine in neutral. Swam under and checked and sure enough, I bent the crap out of the prop on something. We had no other option but to idle the boat back to the boat ramp which took about 30 minutes. It was vibrating pretty violently and seemed to only be getting worse. All the sudden noticed that out feet were very wet. Popped open the engine cover and everything was soaked. Used the bilge pumps, a hand pump and cups to pump the water. Managed to get the boat on the trailer and out of the lake. Appears that the vibrations from the bent prop shook the bolts that hold the prop under the boat clean out of the bottom and the bolt holes were just filling with water. 3 of the 4 bolts were completely missing and the last one was just barely holding on...      ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-23-2013 at 8:22am
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Mike, Sorry to hear about your problem. You have some work ahead of you! The boat should have been towed but the damage is already done. You will need to pull the shaft to see if it's bent as well as the strut. You also may have damaged the log and stuffing box. I'm sure a new cutlass bearing will be needed as well. On the prop, a prop shop will tell you if it can be repaired. Struts are bedded to the hull with typically 3M 4200. Make sure you go through the alignment procedure video found in the forums "new" section. Alignment starts at the strut. Hopefully you haven't damaged the trans as well. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: September-25-2013 at 12:48am
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Well I pumped the transmission as dry as possible, looked like a strawberry milkshake. Not surprising seeing how it was operating while under water for a while. Filled it with fresh ATF. Drained the motor oil and replaced oil and filter. Attempted to remove the prop but was only able to get the prop nut to come off. Going to have to order a removal tool or find someone in the DFW area that has one handy ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: September-25-2013 at 10:12am
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Ouch!! I probably would have driven it too. I assume that the bolts probably weren't as tight as they needed to be if it "rattled" them loose. All you can do is put it back together properly and run the trans and see what ya got! Perfect time to upgrade to that 540 ;). ------------- |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: September-25-2013 at 10:36pm
| I'm guessing it probably did a number on the shaft inside the coupler if not the coupler too, while that thing was flailing around. |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: September-27-2013 at 1:55am
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So is there anyway to check the shaft inside the coupler without removing the coupler? going to guess thats a stupid question... ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-27-2013 at 4:41am
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: September-27-2013 at 10:10am
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Good deal, figured it wouldn't hurt to ask after reading how much of a PITA is appears to be to remove the drive shaft and coupler. Got the boat interior all dried out after a couple days in the sun so now its back in the garage ready for some fall repairs ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: January-10-2014 at 12:42am
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Quick update as I finally started working on the boat again. It has just been sitting in my garage since last September. I was able to remove the propeller and strut from the boat and I disconnected the prop shaft from the transmission but I still haven't removed the prop shaft from the boat. Took the prop to a reputable repair shop in Dallas and was told it was too thin to fix and it is now a wall decoration. I just placed an order for a new Acme 542 from deltaprop and hope to have it by next weekend so that I can continue making progress on the boat. Currently have the valve covers off replacing the gaskets as well as spark plugs and wires. Question though, when the strut bolts all fell out from the boat, the lone survivor that held in place vibrated in place on the hull of the boat enough to about double the size of the bolt hole. What is the appropriate method to go about repairing this? The three other holes appear to be fine as those bolts must have fallen out quickly. Thanks ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Oletela
Date Posted: January-10-2014 at 1:08am
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I am just now seeing your post but I am here in Lewisville and have a 89' and usually out 4-5 times a week. Hopefully we get some rain to get some water back into the lake! I do know a few secret spots that are still full of water though I haven't got around to any winter projects yet but don't really have anything major planned for once! Maybe one day we can get them out on the water together when you get her going again!
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Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: January-10-2014 at 2:31pm
Mike, I would pull the strut altogether if you haven't already. Put some tape on the outside of the hull and fill the hole with thickened resin. Once the resin has cured, redrill the hole in the appropriate location. you'll need to use the strut as a template, but if you don't want to drill through the strut, just make a cardboard template from the strut, locate it with the three good bolt holes and drill the 4th. I don't think strength is going to be too much of an issue, but if you were worried about it, adding a couple of layers of cloth in the bilge could pull the repair together with a little more strength. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-10-2014 at 2:46pm
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Care to fill us in as to why you removed the strut? Post a pic of the holes... I would be really hard pressed to repair a wallowed out strut bolt hole as Dreaming suggests. Some slop in those holes is normal, they dont need to be tight for any reason that I can think of. To repair with glass would require grinding off the gel in the bilge, then glassing over, then re-gelling, then redrilling the hole... thats a lot of work, and probably no need for it. Unless there is a structural problem, it can most likely be left alone. Clean up the area, test fit it for proper alignment, and bed it properly with a good sealant (5200 or 4200) when reinstalling. |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: January-10-2014 at 8:52pm
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I have removed the strut and just ordered new bushings for the strut from the dealer north of Dallas, should be in by next weekend. What brand/type resin would you recommend to fill the strut hole? I would like to get it taken care of this weekend hopefully so that it can all go back together next weekend. I feel as though it is necessary as I would be worried about a leak around that hole even with adhesive on the strut. I don't have any pictures on me right now of the physical hole but you can get an idea from looking at the pictures posed on the first page. One of the pictures shows three missing bolts with one remaining bolt in place and you can see how it has moved. ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-10-2014 at 10:06pm
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I agree with Tim. The holes for the strut can be pretty sloppy. You need some slop for alignment. The 4200 or 5200 will hold the strut in the proper position. Don't worry about filling the holes at this time. Dry fit and check the strut alignment to the log first. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: January-11-2014 at 8:54pm
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finished up the new valve cover gaskets and was just looking at the prop shaft while spinning it and there is a very visible bend in the shaft where the propeller would mount to it. I am trying to see if this is even worth the headache of attempting to remove and if these prop-shafts are repairable as far as bends go. Or should I just cut this out with a saw and buy the new ARE system or are there cheaper replacements out there? thanks for any help. ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-11-2014 at 10:48pm
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ARE is the way to go. If your current shaft is bent behind the strut, it's good for a pry bar & not much else. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Bones71
Date Posted: January-11-2014 at 11:37pm
------------- That money talks, I'll not deny, I heard it once: It said 'Goodbye' |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: January-12-2014 at 2:57am
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Ok time to bust out the Diablo saw blades and go to town on this prop shaft then. Looking at the coupling, it is quite rusted to the shaft and key so I'm not even going to bother. What is the proper length ARE drive shaft I need for this or do I actually need to measure the old one after I cut it out? ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Bones71
Date Posted: January-12-2014 at 11:28am
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Mike, there are standard lengths for whatever year and make boat you have. Just tell whoever you purchase it through what you have and they will get you set up. Also look up the FAQ section on here about properly lapping in a new prop or old prop on new shaft. Tony. ------------- That money talks, I'll not deny, I heard it once: It said 'Goodbye' |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-12-2014 at 2:11pm
| A standard length shaft will work, but I would highly recommend measuring the distance from your trans output coupler to the aft end of the strut, add 1/2" and tell them that's where you want the forward end of the prop hub to end up. Every boat is built a little different and most "stock" shaft lengths end up being too long to accommodate this. Clearances of 1-1.5" (or more) are common, and there is just no reason for that. Keep clearance at 1/2" and not only will performance improve, but so will longevity/reliability of the shaft and bushing due to the smaller overhung load. |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: January-21-2014 at 7:56pm
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just an update, last week I cut off the old prop shaft and removed it. It was quite bent after the strut. Ordered the new A.R.E. shaft system which just came in the mail yesterday so now I have a fancy new Acme 542 and drive shaft to install. I took the strut over to the Nautique dealer and they looked at the strut and said it had a very slight bend and that once they are bent they are not repairable... I then took the strut to the prop repair shop and the owner is quite confident he can repair the strut and replace the bearings inside of it. Looking at the log and stuffing box, I do not see any visible damage to anything. I did cut off the rubber hose part on the drive shaft seal so I'm going to have to replace that and replace the packing material as well. ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: gR@HaM
Date Posted: January-21-2014 at 8:05pm
Tim, that's just answered my question on a separate thread, looks like I need to install my strut and measure up before ordering a new shaft. Presumably the shaft length should include the full length of the coupling, and not that of the thread. Length of the taper should be exactly that of the prop? Thanks ------------- '82 Ski Tique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-21-2014 at 8:21pm
Of course they are going to tell you it's not repairable. Guess what, I have a feeling they wanted to sell you a new strut!! This is only one reason that going to a dealer should be your ABSOLUTE LAST option!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gR@HaM
Date Posted: January-21-2014 at 8:31pm
Indeed mine was bent like a banana before I sent it over to the US for john to fix ------------- '82 Ski Tique |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: January-21-2014 at 10:10pm
well the real cool part was when they told me when you push the bearing out of the strut, it removes a layer of metal and then new bearings just rotate inside the strut... they said they recommend replacing the strut anytime it requires new bearings inside it... ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-21-2014 at 10:14pm
WOW, what are they smoking at that dealer? I have NEVER EVER heard such BS!! They must like selling struts!! Did they bother or even know what the fit tolerance is?------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: January-22-2014 at 12:30am
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Fit tolerance was never mentioned. He just showed me where inside of the strut there are two bearings and that one of them had moved forward towards the other bearing and come off the set screw (figure this is most likely do to the "incident") When I took the strut to the prop repair shop, the owner took a look at it and said it was slightly tweaked to the side but said there was no sign of stretching or compression. Hopefully he will call me back with good news!! ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: February-10-2014 at 1:43am
   Just an update. Picked up the repaired strut last week, James Propeller in Dallas did a great job on it. Got it nice and strait and installed new bearing inside it. Cleaned up very well with some slight pitting (figure that is normal for 30 years). So I now have the new ARE shaft, new 542 prop and redone strut with bearings. I am ordering new shaft packing for the shaft seal and a new hose for the shaft seal. Now before I put this all back together, I need to address the damage done to the underside of the boat when the strut was vibrating around under it. In the pictures you can see the enlarged bolt hole for the strut hole. There is also damage just behind where the strut mounts. I am trying to see what the best method for fixing this is. Do I need to grind it down and apply new gelcoat to it? I am not very concerned with how it looks cosmetically as it will be under the boat, so color match is not a concern. I just want to make sure it is fixed and not going to lead to more problems. ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: gR@HaM
Date Posted: February-10-2014 at 4:13am
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Can you let me know where you will source the shaft hose from please? I ordered some from skidim a while back and it and it was no good, wrong id, not wire reinforced, only 3 ply ------------- '82 Ski Tique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-10-2014 at 9:48am
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The shaft log hose that SkiDIM sells is fine. There was nothing special about the original hose- it was pretty thin, not wire reinforced, etc. You do want the 1.5" and not the typical 1.75", as they mention on their http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1139&val=0&pagenumber=3" rel="nofollow - website. I cant tell exactly how damaged the keel is on the aft end of the strut base, but it doesnt look serious. The hull is very thick, that damage isnt a structural concern. I would rough up the area in question with some sand paper, clean it with acetone and then try to reshape the strut recess using some thickened resin. Follow with gelcoat if youre concerned with cosmetics. |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: May-06-2014 at 11:10pm
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Just a quick update, finally got the boat put all back together and got to test it out on lake Lewisville north of Dallas this past weekend. The new 542 prop is awesome behind the boat. Everything went great until about 7pm the RPMS started shuttering up and down so I turned it off. Come to find out the transmission leaked all of its fluid out and what little remained inside it looked like a milk shake. Figure its the oil cooler leaking fluid into the fresh water, so a new one is in the mail thanks to SKIDIM. We were able to get a tow from a very friendly gentlemen in his nice new Super Air Nautique. It was a little sad to have to get towed back after such a great day on the water, but we should be back out this weekend and hopefully will make it out AND back under our own power! shot of a buddy behind the boat on Saturday  ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: May-11-2014 at 8:19pm
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So got the new cooler installed on the transmission and took the boat out on the water yesterday for a test. No more milky transmission but still lost all the fluid.... lots of transmission fluid in the bilge of the boat. Luckily we took plenty of spare fluid out with us so we just floated the boat in a cove and floated for a few hours before bringing the boat back in. After doing some reading last night, it appears it is not that uncommon for the transmission seal to leak the ATF fluid out and it appeared that the fix involved pulling the transmission. A friend and I successfully got the transmission out of the boat in about 2 hour this afternoon with proper rehydration brakes here and there. It appears that the transmission was leaking into the bell housing. So who can recommend someone to send this thing to? DFW area? I saw mention of Eric Lavine on the forums specializing in rebuilding these. Hoping to not be out of the lake game for too long. Thanks for any help!!   ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: May-11-2014 at 10:49pm
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Wow, I gotta tell you that you're taking this really well. I had to reread the whole thread to remember what was going on. It's been one thing after another for you but you've been doing great at getting everything repaired. Learning a lot along the way too. Well done!!!! However, yours is a classic example of what happens when a prop striking an object can damage anything along the entire drivetrain as you're quickly finding out. There's no doubt in my mind that this is still a result of the strike. I can't help you with where to take it in the DFW area but you do need to make sure that you replace the damper on the flywheel. Any time that you remove/replace the tranny the damper should be replaced. If you don't, there's no doubt that you'll be pulling the tranny again after you get it rebuilt. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: May-12-2014 at 3:09pm
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Joe in NY has one of these tranny's already rebuilt and ready to go. looked like a nice price too. Check the for sale section and I bet you'll be out the door cheaper and quicker than a tranny shop can help you in this season. |
Posted By: bhectus
Date Posted: May-12-2014 at 3:33pm
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http://fantasticfinishmarine.net/" rel="nofollow - FFM Eric no longer works there but they still have very capable people that know what they are doing. Still highly recommended by guys here. ------------- '02 Ski Nautique 196 w/ 5.7 Apex bowtie - Sold '87 Barefoot - sold '97 Super Sport Nautique - originally custom built for Walt Meloon '97 Ski Nautique '83 SN 2001 |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: May-12-2014 at 6:22pm
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30499&title=velvet-drive-71-series-with-new-seals-and-clutches" rel="nofollow - This Thread? ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: May-12-2014 at 8:40pm
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Joe is a great guy and very honest. If you send him your core, most ship these in an old Milk Crate. I believe you use plastic pull ties to install a wooden lid. You put your shipping info on the wooden lid. |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: May-14-2014 at 11:34am
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Contacted Joe but it appears that he is all out of transmissions and I never heard when he might have new ones ready to go. Mailed off my transmission to fantastic finish marine yesterday. UPS guy didn't look all too thrilled when he attempted to pick up the box... So, going onto this damper plate. Just out of curiosity, why is it necessary to replace the entire unit when pulling the transmission? All the warranty information I see about rebuilt transmissions says that the cooler has to be replaced but makes no mention of the damper plate. Looks like Skidim has them for a little over $200, unless someone knows of a better avenue to take. ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: May-14-2014 at 12:50pm
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The cooler doesn't have to be replaced unless you know it's leaking water into the tranny fluid. That requirement I'd presume is coming from whomever is rebuilding the tranny. The damper plate is bolted to the flywheel and what the tranny input shaft actually mates up to. It provides the vibration dampening between the tranny input shaft and the crankshaft of the engine. Every time you go in and out of gear, the damper is doing it's job. It does this with a series of springs that become brittle and/or weak over a period time and eventually, they'll start breaking and sending pieces of the broken springs and the damper plate itself all over the inside of the bell housing. At that point you'll hear this hellatious noise from what you'll think is your brand new freshly rebuilt tranny grinding itself to a horrible halt. Our standard recommendation is to replace the damper whenever you remove/replace the tranny. The ONLY way to replace the damper is to remove the tranny and it's easier seeing as it's easily accessable now and you have no idea how weak those springs have become or the last time it was ever replaced. Inevitably, anyone who doesn't replace the damper after a tranny rebuild will just end up going through the hassle of removing the tranny a second time within a few short hours of a fresh rebuild. After everything else that you've had to replace and/or repair in this endevour, the damper plate was the last line of defense in the entire drivetrain that probably saved your crankshaft from complete destruction. Do yourself a favor and get a new damper. Don't argue. Just do it. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: May-14-2014 at 1:20pm
Wish I had seen this a little sooner, I may be in the minority, but I did not have a good experience with the post-Eric Lavine FFM. I had my transmission rebuilt by them two summers ago and when I got the boat back it didn't run at all. The transmission wasn't the problem, so you may be ok if you only sent them that and not the whole boat, but they "fixed" a whole lot of stuff on mine that wasn't broken and ended up retarding my timing in the process. I live 40 minutes from them and they'll never see my boat again. Just my .02 ------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: May-14-2014 at 1:22pm
------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-14-2014 at 1:24pm
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ebasicpower has damper plates about half the price,Tim B will know for sure I believe he gets his from there ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: cphase
Date Posted: May-14-2014 at 2:18pm
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I believe http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/ALTDA-106" rel="nofollow - this is the damper you need, you have to trim the edges if I am not mistaken. ------------- Thanks, Jeff http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6549" rel="nofollow - 82 SN http://www.archlinux.org" rel="nofollow - Arch Linux |
Posted By: hotboat
Date Posted: May-14-2014 at 2:38pm
Not one to be a basher but I sent my friend there with his Century, $5000 later the boat hasnt been usable since. Beware ------------- Brian |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: May-14-2014 at 10:23pm
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Ok will order a new damper plate for sure then, I wasn't 100% sure of what its exact purpose was until reading Eddie's description. Well I hope everything works out with Fantastic Finish, they seem very good and on top of business so far. Every email I have sent them has been promptly responded to. I will be sure to report back any updates from them! Looking forward to getting this back out on the lake ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: May-14-2014 at 10:43pm
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I know of others that have purchased that Damper Plate that you need to trim off just a little. That is the way to go.
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Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: May-14-2014 at 11:18pm
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so this exact damper plate? http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/ALTDA-106 and can someone describe "trim" off a little? what exactly am I trimming? ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: May-15-2014 at 10:31am
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The very end of each "wing" of the damper. Right next to each bolt that bolts the damper in place. It'll stick out over the edge of the flywheel a little bit. Trim off each "wing" so the starter doesn't make contact with it. It's only about a 1/2" or something like that. It isn't much. A dremel tool works awesome to cut it off. I really don't know for sure why they need to be trimmed but everybody has to do it. I can only guess it's designed to fit a variety of different diameter flywheels but again purely a guess. Not a big deal. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-15-2014 at 10:56am
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If you dont want to trim it yourself, there is also a pre-trimmed version available for $10 more: http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/pc/ALTDA-106A/ALL3G" rel="nofollow - http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/pc/ALTDA-106A/ALL3G Eddie is correct- these dampers are transmission specific (Borg Warner Velvet Drive) and are "universal" in that they are made to fit a number of different engines. For example, a 72c bolted to a big block Chevy uses the same damper, (no trimming needed). |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: May-17-2014 at 1:05am
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ordered the new damper, should be here mid next week. UPS shows that Fantastic Finish received my transmission at noon today. They said it was a 2-3 day turn around time period on the rebuild. So if all the stars align perfectly, I might just have this thing back together next weekend in time for Memorial Day. Anything else I should attend to while the boat is this far taken apart? ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-17-2014 at 10:36am
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Maybe you want to replace the rear main seal while you have it apart. Cheap insurance. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-17-2014 at 7:42pm
I actually found an old splined shaft to fit the center of the plate, cut it off, drilled a center in the lathe then I scribe the radius. I cut them off in the bad saw and do the final trim on the belt sander. I don't want to throw the balance off!! Yes, there are 7 different hole patterns in the plate to fit a multitude of flywheels. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Mike26
Date Posted: May-21-2014 at 10:47pm
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New damper just came in the mail. Heard back from Fantastic Finish and they got the transmission all taken apart. Apparently the oil pump went bad and the oil pump gears ground into the front cover of the transmission, leading to the leaking oil... whoops! Price went up, no surprise there. Needs a new oil pump and front cover, plus the rebuild of course. ------------- '83 Ski Nautique 2001 |