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Electronic Ignition

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31253
Printed Date: October-08-2024 at 7:20pm


Topic: Electronic Ignition
Posted By: baumanmt
Subject: Electronic Ignition
Date Posted: August-19-2013 at 7:05pm
Hi Everyone,
I have a 1984 2001 and want to switch to an electronic ignition. I want to upgrade from points. Any recommendations along this line, I have a 351?

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gb842001



Replies:
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: August-19-2013 at 9:33pm
Most motor heads will discourage you from doing this since points are more reliable and the most common failure, when they get stuck, is fixable with a piece of sand paper. With that being said I bought 3 years ago a Mallory E-Spark conversion and I really like. No problems yet and love how everything is working. I believe I bought it at Summit Racing. I have an 87 SN 2001.

Good luck,
Anthony


Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: August-19-2013 at 9:34pm
I forgot to say,,
    This is the cheap way and their is no HP gain. If you want to get the real deal get a DUI ignition.


Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: August-19-2013 at 10:33pm
I have the Mallory on our 1984 SN2001 and a Pertronix Ignitor on our 1974 Mercruiser 140. Many on here hate the Pertronix units, but mine has ran for 12+ years without issue.

As Anthony said, many of the experts prefer points. The conversions have just been easier on maintenance in my case, but I suppose some day I'll get towed in from out on the lake because of them.

If you decide to go electronic, my suggestion is to be *extremely anal* about following the manufacturer's wiring diagram, or you will be back on here posting about an engine that runs poorly. Pay close attention to what wire goes to the coil + post (probably after a total of 1.5 ohm resistance), what wire goes to the conversion unit feed (an ignition-switched 12V feed, not after a ballast resistor), what your coil internal resistance is (probably about 0.7 ohm or 1.5 ohm), whether or not you need a ballast resistor, and if so, what resistance (probably 0.75 to 1 ohm). If there is any confusion, ask on here. Also, just like with points, never leave your key in the Run position without the engine running--it can fry the coil and/or the electronic conversion unit. An epoxy-filled coil like the MSD Blaster High Vibration Ignition Coil p/n 8222 is preferable to an oil-filled coil (like I'm running...).

Steve


Posted By: baumanmt
Date Posted: August-20-2013 at 11:23am
Thank you guys for the reply. I'm not 100% sure it makes sense now. I will dig a bit deeper and decide if it is worth the $600 upgrade. Thanks again

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gb842001


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-20-2013 at 11:38am
Wait, what? $600 for what?

Im one of the ones who does not like the retrofit EI kits. I have found points to be extremely reliable, very decent performing on stock boats, and cheap. If they fail, you'll also be able to limp back to the dock or ramp.

Electronic modules on the other hand, usually fail catastrophically- no spark = no limping back home. Theyre usually priced at $75-100, so theyre not cheap. They also cannot offer a performance benefit over properly adjusted points. They are, after all, just a trigger signal for the coil to fire- and it does nothing to address bushing slop or the advance curve of your distributor. We have heard many instances of improperly adjusted EI pick ups causing running issues- so theyre not as "worry free" as some would have you believe. I have a dead module of every flavor in my basement- Prestolite (PCM), Mallory and Pertronix.

If you want to gain performance, then going with a new distributor with tight bushings and a dialed in advance curve is the way to go. Ones that offer the ability for hotter spark (DUI, etc) are nice as well. I would probably not recommend this route unless 1)youre doing this upgrade in concert with other modifications- heads/cam/intake, etc, or 2)your old distributor has become unreliable and needs to be replaced anyways.

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Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: August-20-2013 at 12:25pm
What Tim said.

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Posted By: baumanmt
Date Posted: August-20-2013 at 3:43pm
Thanks again guys for all the great advice. I am not a mechanic and this is was just an idea. What I was looking at was at nautiqueparts.com and it is an electronic conversion kit for left hand Ford PCM, not even sure thats what I have? It is $545.00. I have a missing action happening and thought instead of doing new points, rotor, plug wires and coil, I should just go electronic. This is why I am on here asking to Boyz that know. Any more advice would be helpful, thanks again. I just want my baby to run perfect.

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gb842001


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-20-2013 at 3:52pm
No, no, no- what youre describing is the http://www.nautiqueparts.com/electronicconversionkitforpro-tecmotors.aspx" rel="nofollow - Protec retrofit kit. Assuming we're talking about the 2001 you have in your profile, your boat does not have that. An electronic ignition conversion like the one http://www.nautiqueparts.com/breakerlessignitionkitforprestolitedistributorswithclipdowncap1986andolderprestolitedistributors.aspx" rel="nofollow - Nautiqueparts sells is much more reasonably priced- but my advice from above still holds.

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Posted By: baumanmt
Date Posted: August-20-2013 at 4:59pm
So glad this site is available. I think I will just do a solid tune up and see if that fixes the problem. Thank You TRBenj

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gb842001


Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: August-21-2013 at 10:57pm
Sounds like you've got your plan, but for what it's worth:

Many debunk the Pertronix, but I've had it in my old Century 5+ years with not a bit of trouble. Can't recall what it cost, but nowhere near $600.

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1974 Southwind 18
1975 Century Mark II


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-22-2013 at 2:05pm
Or you could go with one of these switch the gear with yours and solve all the problems for 1/2 the cost of the DUI.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-ylm554cv/overview/make/ford" rel="nofollow - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-ylm554cv/overview/make/ford


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-22-2013 at 2:40pm
That one needs an external coil, not same as DUI.

Nice dizzy for the money though.

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: baumanmt
Date Posted: August-22-2013 at 5:08pm
Thanks again everyone. Gun-Driver, do I need a different coil also or is this all I need to make the change. What you show is what I had in mind.

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gb842001


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-22-2013 at 7:19pm
Read the overview information
They're designed fo OE or aftermarket coils


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-22-2013 at 9:32pm
not quite 100 difference, not sure about the gear on either the Mallory or the http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-m35820bl" rel="nofollow - D.U.I. 50 if you include a new coil for the Mallory.
Some of these distributor upgrades require 8mm wires too. If you don't need this for performance I don't see the gain,I am on my second set of points since I got the boat in '87

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Nauti87
Date Posted: August-22-2013 at 10:22pm
I just went to the Mallory E-spark, I have had great luck with Mallory over the years so that's why I went with it.
I got mine from Summit on e-bay. It was $112. with free shipping. Ebasic marine had it cheaper but without shipping and no returns.
I'm happy so far. But like they said above, when an EI goes there you are. So don't throw the points away, keep them so maybe you could throw them on to get you in. I was kinda lucky, the EI I replaced was a very old unit that worked intermittently, so I have it on the boat for a possible back up.

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1987 SN 2001 Barn Find aka "Nauti" (sold sadly)
1988 MC Anniversary Prostar 190


Posted By: malibud
Date Posted: August-23-2013 at 11:14am
I replaced my whole Auto dizzy (PO) with a mallory from Skidim about 500$ works great kept the old one in the boat for just in case. not hard to put in just get the timming set . But your not going to feel a HP gain over points


Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-23-2013 at 11:55am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

not quite 100 difference, not sure about the gear on either the Mallory or the http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-m35820bl" rel="nofollow - D.U.I. 50 if you include a new coil for the Mallory.
Some of these distributor upgrades require 8mm wires too. If you don't need this for performance I don't see the gain,I am on my second set of points since I got the boat in '87


Gary
I remember researching the DUI's for my motor and I believe it was another $100 or so to get one set up for reverse rotation. Can't find that information right now Tim would know better.
The Mallory I posted all we did is swap gears. Stock coil worked fine but I did end up installing the Mallory coil they recommended for that distributor but really didn't have too.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-29219/overview/" rel="nofollow - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-29219/overview/


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-23-2013 at 1:45pm
Your right Paul,I think I remember 75 or so for the gear. I had looked into and had in my hand a mallory e spark for mine but after seeing what needed to be done I returned it. The cam had to come out and needed a special puller to remove it.Then it would need new wires because it's not compatable with the solid cores I have,which I believe holds true for thr DUI also. It just didn't seem worth it.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Mader85
Date Posted: August-23-2013 at 9:14pm
Converted to the Mallory electronic ignition 3 years ago and have not had any issues so far on my 85 SN. I went with the Mallory stuff including distributor and coil. Got it from summit was a little cheaper than ski dum but a word of caution try to get the correct part numbers for your rotation engine before ordering from them these are car people not boat people.even after explaining to them what I needed including my engine rotation still got the wrong gear for the dizzy and had to wait another week for it to show up. I would use skidum if had it to do over that way you are talking to boat people.



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