shaft threading on reverse rotation
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31273
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 1:45am
Topic: shaft threading on reverse rotation
Posted By: 76 Ski Tique
Subject: shaft threading on reverse rotation
Date Posted: August-20-2013 at 10:32pm
Working on my tique shaft seal. Is the nut on the coupler side of the shaft reverse threads? I can't for anything get the nut off on trans side. Am i missing something? Any tips? Thanks!
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Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-21-2013 at 9:11am
Are you talking about the packing gland? No, it will have standard threads.
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Posted By: 76 Ski Tique
Date Posted: August-21-2013 at 10:31am
Sorry dont know what its called. Right where the flange from the trans and the flage from the shaft meet theres a nut on the shaft. Called oj props standard. Thanks!
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-21-2013 at 10:49am
Now Im wondering if you have a dual taper shaft and thats what youre asking about? Unless we can get our terminology straight, youre going to have to post a picture.
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-21-2013 at 11:21am
Even if it is a dual taper shaft or not why would you have to take it off just to change the shaft packing??? Like Tim says it's always best to post a picture.I kinda think he's talking the flange on the trans side,maybe wants to change the trans seal?
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport
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Posted By: 76 Ski Tique
Date Posted: August-21-2013 at 3:53pm
Sorry for any confusion but I am NOT changing the packing I am replacing the seal with an OJ dripless I need to remove the shaft coupler from the trans and then there is a nut that is holding the coupler on to the shaft and I cannot remove it.
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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-21-2013 at 6:33pm
Still doesn't add up - Why would you need to remove the transmission flange to slip the dripless seal over the prop shaft? is there not enough room? If so, maybe you can just jack the engine/ trans up (not very hard).
------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin
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Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: August-21-2013 at 6:44pm
Hes talking about the shaft coupling on an ARE type shaft. The answer is No, the threads will be common lefty loosy. Sounds like somebody over-tightened it.
------------- Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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Posted By: cooperlacy
Date Posted: August-21-2013 at 6:54pm
From what you are describing, it sounds like you need to remove the nut for a dual taper shaft that secures the coupler to the shaft. In the A.R.E. dual taper system this is a standard right-handed nut (I can't speak for other brands). Depending on your set-up, there may not be much room between trans coupling and the shaft coupling to get a wrench in between. I don't have the special tool to hold the coupler when removing the nut so I usually use a long Allen wrench through one of the coupling holes to hold it in place. As mentioned earlier, post a picture so we can verify what you're talking about.
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Posted By: cooperlacy
Date Posted: August-23-2013 at 11:53am
One other thing I just thought of is the ARE coupling nut has a set screw to keep it from loosening. You must loosen this set screw before you can loosen the nut.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-23-2013 at 9:37pm
PICTURES!!!!
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-23-2013 at 11:07pm
I wonder if he's talking about #8 here in this picture? If he's having trouble now what is going to happen when he goes to break the coupler from the taper? Do you have #9 to remove the coupler and do you have B to stop the shaft from turning? A is the special socket to remove #8 if there is minimum clearance between flanges
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport
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Posted By: 76 Ski Tique
Date Posted: August-27-2013 at 2:28am
Hey guys update! Sorry I've been away for A bit. I would have loved to post a pic and honestly didn't know how. I did need to remove #8 Gary thanks for the exploded view. There was such little clearance that I was struggling getting to the nut. And I believe it was over tightened. I just wanted to know the thread pattern because I couldn't move it either way. After the nut came off the job went flawlessly. Thanks to a "heat/freeze" trick my skidim guy told me! Back on the water and no drips visible from the new OJ dripless. Thanks for all the input and patience.
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Posted By: cooperlacy
Date Posted: August-27-2013 at 9:16am
The 70 lb-ft that ARE recommends torqueing that nut to is pretty tight... especially of you're in an awkward position. Make sure you re-torqued to that spec as the coupler end taper is not nearly as steep as the prop end. Also, if you ever take the coupler off again, I highly recommend buying the removing plug #9. It will pop the shaft out of the coupler in a split second with no heat/cool needed.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-27-2013 at 7:39pm
cooperlacy wrote:
Make sure you re-torqued to that spec as the coupler end taper is not nearly as steep as the prop end. | Exactly and I commented on it when I installed the ARE in my Tique. A steep short taper needs more "pull" to seat it in. I also commented that I also lapped the coupling taper to the shaft. Yup, even CNC machining isn't always the greatest! The taper needed the lapping.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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