Motor Oil, Oil Filters, Transmission Fluid
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31299
Printed Date: November-27-2024 at 1:01am
Topic: Motor Oil, Oil Filters, Transmission Fluid
Posted By: boardersdad
Subject: Motor Oil, Oil Filters, Transmission Fluid
Date Posted: August-22-2013 at 2:25am
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In this thread, I'm attempting to summarize the CCF forum answers to my questions about motor oil, oil filters and transmission fluid, with links to other threads and to additional information online. ______________________________________________________ MOTOR OIL Our PCM/Ford 351W engines use a flat tappet camshaft. A quick online search will provide a wealth of information on flat tappet cams and the antiwear additive ZDDP. Many experts, including some on this site, believe that ZDDP is needed beyond the engine break-in period to avoid cam wear, and believe that the lower levels of ZDDP in modern oils are too low for these engines. Several experts on this site recommend these specific oils: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W-50 (conventional p/n VV211 or synthetic p/n 679082.0) or Mobil 1 15W-50 (synthetic) Here are some details: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W-50 Spec Gravity @ 60°F: 0.888 Zinc: 1400 ppm Phosphorus: 1300 ppm Conventional p/n VV211 http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/6" rel="nofollow - webpage http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf" rel="nofollow - pdf Synthetic p/n 679082.0 http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/8" rel="nofollow - webpage http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_synthetic.pdf" rel="nofollow - pdf Mobil 1 15W-50 Density @15.6º C g/ml: 0.87 Zinc: 1300 ppm Phosphorus: 1200 ppm https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.ashx" rel="nofollow - Mobil 1 Engine Oils Table http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_15W-50.aspx" rel="nofollow - Mobil 1 15W-50 For more information, see the http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30716&title=what-weight-oil" rel="nofollow - What Weight Oil thread and the threads it links to. ______________________________________________________ OIL FILTERS There seems to be a lot of emotion behind oil filter loyalty. Steve K (skutsch) and I took the results of a January 2011 oil filter study and removed price as a factor in grading the filters. These rankings are from the one referenced study only. We are assuming that the individual category grades (filtering, quality, etc) are common across a manufacturer's sizes of a specific filter, because the part number used in the study is not necessarily the one for our engines. These rankings do not factor in price (on purpose).   For more information, see the http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30716&title=what-weight-oil" rel="nofollow - What Weight Oil thread, the http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29603&title=oil-filter-comparison-evaluation" rel="nofollow - Oil Filter Comparison/Evaluation thread, and the threads they link to. I personally am switching to Mobil 1 oil filters. ______________________________________________________ TRANSMISSION FLUID Conventional Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF), Dexron-III/Mercon, not synthetic Several experts on this site recommend Castrol and Valvoline (just confirm Dexron-III/Mercon, and not a different rated fluid). For more information, including info about flushing the transmission, see the http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22600&title=transmission-fluid-type-dextron-or-sae20" rel="nofollow - Transmission Fluid Type - Dextron or SAE20? thread, the http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28892&title=transmission-fluid-type" rel="nofollow - Transmission Fluid type thread, and the threads they link to. ______________________________________________________ I greatly appreciate everyone's input--thanks, guys. Steve edit 3/3/15: Mobil moved their Mobil 1 Engine Oils Table; edited the link edit 5/13/21: Oil filter table image disappeared over the years. Added it in using newer ccfan image feature. . |
Replies:
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: August-22-2013 at 3:56pm
nice post! 
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Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: August-24-2013 at 5:23pm
I hope that I am putting my question in the correct spot/thread ... if not I hope that it can be bumped over to the "What Weight Oil" thread. Out here in CO, I will be getting down to preparing our '94 SN to spend winter in the garage (688 +/- hrs. on the Ford 351 Protec). I have been using the oil shown below, but based on this data (excellent work) I am considering switching to the Valvoline VR1 20W/50 (regular VV211). Can I just make the switch with no worries/concerns about the slight change in the weight of oil (i.e., out with the old, in with the new)? I am in the sweet spot on the other fluids. Thanks in advance.
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Posted By: rapok4
Date Posted: August-24-2013 at 5:29pm
| Great information. Thanks for putting it together. Makes it much easier to make a proper choice. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-24-2013 at 6:06pm
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Brian - Don't sweat it, just change to your new brand. It's not like your feeding MAC software to a PC! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: August-24-2013 at 6:18pm
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Brian, VR1 or Mobil 1 will work, I switched from Mobil 1 to VR1 for an oil change a couple of years ago because Wally world stopped stocking the Mobil 1 in the jugs. Called a friend who is a GM at a store in Austin, and his store had it back on the shelf a few months later and so did mine. I though the miter felt a touch smoother with the Mobil 1, but I didn't notice anything different on the guages. I've heard on a different site that Motorcraft specs a different filter for the big retailers than it does for the dealers and others, I'm guessing they tested the cheap one. I'll have to check and see what else Wallyworld stocks next time I go, if that Fram filter has the grip stuff I'll use that, otherwise I'll stock up on the K&N's with the handy nut on the end. I hate having to take the filter loose so anything that helps out is good. |
Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: August-24-2013 at 11:46pm
| Thanks for all the responses ... Don, I think I will lay up with the VR1 this year simply because of the slightly higher ZDDP (BTW ... the stereo turned out great!) ... thanks again! |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: August-25-2013 at 12:44pm
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Yup - this is definitely going on the http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27356&PID=351290" rel="nofollow - FAQ . Well done! Here's another shout-out to see if we can make the FAQ a sticky? ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: August-25-2013 at 9:59pm
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Brian, I think it's wise to move away from the Castrol GTX Diesel 15W-40. I realize you're moving away from it, but I wanted to share my thoughts about the Castrol... The old data sheet for that oil showed Zinc 1300 ppm, Phosphorus 1100 ppm. The latest data sheet on the Castrol website no longer lists the zinc and phosphorus levels for that grade, and adds the SN standard. Now, many people will reference that the SN standard (and the SM standard before it) limit phosphorus to 800 ppm. But, it's more complicated than that. Under the old SM standard, the phosphorus limit only applied to the "ILSAC" grades 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30 and 10W-30; other grades were exempt. Is that the case under the SN standard? I believe so, because the above-recommended Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W-50 (conventional) and Mobil 1 15W-50 both include SN on their data sheets, but have the desired levels of zinc and phosphorus (these grades are presumably still exempt from the phosphorus limit and, provided they meet the rest of the standard, can still claim "SN"). So the bottom line with regard to Castrol is that they removed the zinc and phosphorus levels from their data sheet for that grade oil. By the way, an option would be to use a ZDDP additive, so that "any" suitable oil could have high enough anti-wear levels. However, I have read that too much ZDDP can increase carbon deposits inside the engine. So what's my point? Simple... this gets way too complicated way too fast. We have a couple of oils (Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W-50 and Mobil 1 15W-50) that already have the target anti-wear levels. And, most importantly, we have seasoned veterans using these oils in our exact application and recommending these oils. So I think you're wise to switch. And I agree that no flushing should be needed (let it drain awhile and obviously change out the filter). I'm switching to one of these oils, too. Steve |
Posted By: DEF187
Date Posted: August-25-2013 at 11:14pm
| Nice post! I have been running VR1 for about 4 years on my 89 sport and once I switched I noticed my oil pressure running a factor higher. I have just assumed that this is in relation to the viscosity of the 20w-50 oil. Does anyone know if the higher pressure has any other negative affects on my motor? |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-26-2013 at 9:44am
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There is a slight HP loss but it is miniscule. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: gsyogi
Date Posted: August-28-2013 at 6:59pm
Again, great information and please feel free to move this post around to another spot ... As long as we are posting up data and current recommendations, can someone advise me on the top brand of fuel filter/water separator. I am currently running this unit in our '94 SN (it was changed out as part of last season's winterization) ... also can someone recommend the correct service/change interval. Thanks.
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Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: September-11-2014 at 3:58pm
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Hmm interesting that I missed this thread. Anyway, I have been running Brad Penn Racing oils in the 98 Sport and the 64 Ski for several years now. It meets all the required ZDDP needs. It is also pretty reasonably priced. Here is a link the their website and you can look at each products data sheet (i.e. if you want to run straight 30W, 40W or one of the multi-viscosity oils). They also have independant testing verification of their ZDDP levels. http://www.penngrade1.com/Default.aspx" rel="nofollow - Brad Penn Racing Oils ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-11-2014 at 4:09pm
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Are you running the 20W-50 in both boats? If I'm reading the sheet correctly all their grades have 1,500 ppm zinc. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: September-11-2014 at 4:17pm
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Being that I am of German descent (at least that's what my wife blames most of my stubbornness on) I follow the manual to a tee, The 312 interceptor manual indicates straight 30W, so I run that in the Ski, and the PCM manual indicates straight 40W (unless you operate in ridiculously cold water) so I use straight 40W in the Sport. I do use the Racing or High Performance versions. ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-11-2014 at 4:46pm
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Got it. I was running either 10W30 or straight 30 weight in my '63, but found oil pressure dropping a bit when hot. Switched to 20W50 VR1 and pressure held steady, so stuck with it. I now run it in my 454 jet boat and 351 Sport, so will stick with it. I've been aware of the Brad Penn name but know nothing about it, have never even seen a bottle of it. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: September-25-2014 at 9:17pm
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Recently a friend of mine completed a stroker build and he was having some weird things happening oil wise...loss of pressure and power...he is spinning as much as 5900 or so rpms Mercruiser recommend he use single weight oil which has solved those issures. His Sanger DXII runs 59 mph so far...small block. ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-25-2014 at 10:43pm
| Who built the engine that he's going to mercruiser for advice? Yikes. Roller cam presumably? That opens up oil choices immensely. |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: September-25-2014 at 11:21pm
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He builds marine engines ...just some guy that knows a thing or two...he had built a 355 carbed that was good for 51 so I introduced him to my friend who had purchased a stroker from smeding performance that wasnt working well...he reworked it and cooperated with my friend o work out the bugs in regard to efi...mefi...to get a good tune been fiddling with it all summer and its finally producing the desired results. ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: skitique179
Date Posted: March-04-2015 at 1:25am
| What is the consensus on how often transmission fluid should be changed? I had mine rebuilt two years ago. It has run flawlessly and I have checked the level but not changed. The boat probably has about 70 hours in those two years. Time for a change? |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: March-04-2015 at 8:22am
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After the trans is rebuilt I'd change the fluid in just a couple of hours. at least look at it to mark sure it's clean. After your sure it's clean (not making metal) maybe every 100 hours / 3 years. It's only a QT. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: March-04-2015 at 8:23am
I change mine every 50 hours when I do the engine oil. 2 quarts of Transmax fluid is only $12. I think every year or 100 hours would suffice as long as you check the level regularly. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
skitique179 wrote:Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: March-04-2015 at 10:17am
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The end of each season when you change the motor oil and do not use synthetic. |
Posted By: 4th ski-doo
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 9:30pm
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Why not use synthetic? I'm using Amsoil 15/40 Diesel/Marine Oil, my question was with a 2013 that has a remote oil filter can I or do I want to change from the PCM filter or will the Motorcraft FL1 A be a better option? IL've been using all PCM filters and separators so far, I've been told the fluid on the V Drive only needs to be checked regularly but not changed. I'm behind on the tranny, ------------- 2013 SANTE 210 2011 Sport 200v 1994 Bimini Skier Pro 190 1987 Master Craft Power Slot |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 10:00pm
Joe, Don't be confused as CQ is referring to not using synthetic in the trans and not the engine. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: June-10-2016 at 9:58am
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Doo, the FL1A will be A-Ok, that is what I use, just be sure the rubber gasket comes off with the old filter when changing. Synthetic motor oil is fine however PCM says you should not extend the change intervals as you might in a car.. No synthetic in the trans ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: Terp
Date Posted: June-17-2021 at 10:36pm
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Just bringing this back to the top to see if anyone is aware of any changes with the oil ZDDP levels or the filter specs. ------------- '96 Ski Nautique '90 Boston Whaler Montauk |