Super Air Nautique Team Edition Winterizing
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31453
Printed Date: November-18-2024 at 1:39am
Topic: Super Air Nautique Team Edition Winterizing
Posted By: barefootjames
Subject: Super Air Nautique Team Edition Winterizing
Date Posted: September-05-2013 at 5:30pm
I have winterized many Ski Nautiques, and a 1991 Barefoot Nautique a few years back.
Now I have a 2005 Super Air Nautique Team Edition, and it will not be too long from now that it will be time to winterize this boat. In Michigan Area, not Florida.
Engine: Chevy 350....how many drain plugs? (I am used to the Ford GT40)
1 raw water pump,
2 bottom sides of block
2 exhaust risers
1 transmission cooler
Miss any drain plugs?????
Winterizing the engine/tranmission should be the same. I believe this would also include the V-drive.
Process: Drain completely, close all drains, then start engine momentarily to suck Marine antifreeze into everything, hopefully see a little come out the exhaust. In fact it does not hurt to check a few drain plugs to ensure there is antifreeze where you expect it to be located.
Fuel Cell Controller: remove fuel hose(pinching fuel hose), pull drain plug and drain any water that may have accumulated.
Ballast tanks/ballast pumps: ????????
Digital speedometer pickups: ????????
Did I misss anything????
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2005 Super Air Nautique Team Edition Blue/Black Reverse Color Hull
1997 Ski Nautique White/Blue/Black Sold
1997 Ski Nautique White/Black - Sold
1991 Barefoot Nautique White/Medium Blue/Light Blue - Sold
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Replies:
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: September-05-2013 at 5:50pm
Does the boat have a heater or shower? If so that changes a couple things. There should be a drain plug at the base of the JTube also.
On the FCC you can just use the drain plug on the bottom, water should be the first thing out if any. Would plan on changing the filter in the spring after you run the old treated fuel out.
Not sure on the ballast tanks, I only run pumps both directions several times with all valves open, you may want to suck a little a/f in to be safe.
You should have a Gateway box rearward somewhere, definitely remove the pitot lines entering the box to ensure they are drained and it's not a bad idea to remove the entire box and store it in a warm place, its only 4 screws w/nuts and a handful and a half of electrical plugs which are all shaped differently so no problem going back in.
I always remove impeller and serp belt only because it is so easy to do.
There is other basic stuff which you should find on any of the numerous winterizing threads out there.
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