Bigwavedave need HELP!
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URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3180
Printed Date: September-24-2024 at 3:10pm
Topic: Bigwavedave need HELP!
Posted By: bigwavedave
Subject: Bigwavedave need HELP!
Date Posted: March-14-2006 at 9:07am
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What have I gotten myself into?? Have removed foam from my Mustang, and have no rot on the stringers. I would like to put new floor in this weekend. If I can't get marine plywood, is treated okay? 1/2" or 3/4"? Should I put the original fiberglass floor shell (which is in great shape) on the wood or should I carpet? What about moving battery to center in front of ski pylon? Everything is original except that I have no driver or passenger seat. Am trying to keep boat as true to original as possible. Any suggestions? Also need a stern light. Trying to finish boat so I can take it to the Mount Dora, Florida antique boat show on March 25th. I'm in Morris, Illinois, so am also hoping to make the reunion in Green Lake, Wisconsin. Thanks for all of your assistance. ------------- bigwavedave |
Replies:
Posted By: 82tique
Date Posted: March-14-2006 at 9:29am
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3/4 treated should be fine.....just let it cure in the sun to 'dry out' completely before installation. ------------- Life is Good. |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: March-14-2006 at 11:42am
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Go with 3/4, 1/2 will flex between the stringers. Salt treated wood isn't as wet as the old arsenic type. Marine plywood, you're paying for a higher quality without voids and patches, which don't matter on a floor. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: scott8370
Date Posted: March-14-2006 at 11:56am
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I use 5/8" BC 7 ply. Home Depot has it. Treat it with resin, both sides and edges. Or that 2 part Rot Doctor. Then fiberglass it in. I don't think fiberglass sticks very well to treated lumber. Have fun! ------------- Scott |
Posted By: reidp
Date Posted: March-14-2006 at 6:55pm
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Keep the non-skid fiberglass floor pan by all means and forget the carpet, as in my opinion it was the very best thing they ever did, and if only for 3 years thereabouts. You won't regret it. If you're not going to refoam, and that jury is certainly still out, I agree with any of the suggested wood ideas, and glassing it in is even optional, as it'll breathe underneath well without it. If you're gonna refoam, then don't bother with any wood at all, as it surely wasn't there to begin with. Just a good thickness of glass with the floor pan over it. ------------- ReidP /diaries/details.asp?ID=231&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 1973 Mustang |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: March-14-2006 at 8:14pm
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bigwavedave,
Morris on the Illinois river is my home water so to speak. You'll find us there most every weekend this summer. Don't have a ton of time to offer you right now but if you get in a jam let me know, maybe I could swing by and atleast offer some advice. You're probably 30 minutes from me. Be glad to help if I can. ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: scott8370
Date Posted: March-14-2006 at 8:27pm
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Was the original floor glassed (attached) to the hull. Next question...How was the floor pan installed originally? and was it attached to the hull or just the floor? I am really interested in how that was all originally done because most of my experience is in older boats with wood floors that are glassed into the hull. A layer of fiberglass over the foam then a fiberglass floor pan on top of that doesnt seem very sturdy to me. I would love to see that in person. Are the newer boats done this way? ------------- Scott |
Posted By: scott8370
Date Posted: March-14-2006 at 8:44pm
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If you lay plywood,then lay that floor pan over that..I would worry about trapping water between the layers.Although,I'm all for not having carpet ------------- Scott |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: March-14-2006 at 8:51pm
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Scott: Where are some pics of how you project is goin'?
john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: scott8370
Date Posted: March-14-2006 at 9:19pm
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Hey John
I will post some pictures in the next 2-3 weeks.It's coming along real fine. Can't wait to show it off. We hit 70 deg. yesterday. I thought of you. Today its back down to 45 ------------- Scott |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: March-14-2006 at 9:34pm
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Scott, we had snow on the hills here yesterday in Sunny California. Very weird. Third time this year. We go 10 years without snow in this area. Go Figure. Boat's parked out back on the lift and hasn't been in the water in over a month. I'd kill for just a 70 degree day right now. BKH
------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: scott8370
Date Posted: March-15-2006 at 6:15am
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Weather here in Ohio has been extra weird. We had snow maybe two times.Alot off 50 deg. days Jan and Feb. and also some 60+ days..This is my kind of winter! My wife and I would love to live in Cal. but our life $$$ would have to change. ------------- Scott |
Posted By: reidp
Date Posted: March-15-2006 at 6:27am
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Scott,
These 68-70 Mustangs I guess were CCs first attempts to do away with wood in the floor, although they didn't stick with it. The fiberglass encapsulated everything from hull side to hull site just as they did later when wood was installed underneath. Chances are they laid more glass in this scenario than when going over wood. The fiberglass floor pan is a molded piece that runs from front to back with a cut-out and separate piece in the rear center behind the engine. It screws down to the fiberglass below, which may have been the root of it's demise, I don't know. It has a molded, turned up lip/edge at the hull side. An interior wall panel then screws to this lip at the bottom. I can provide some more detail later. Gotta go. ------------- ReidP /diaries/details.asp?ID=231&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 1973 Mustang |
Posted By: scott8370
Date Posted: March-15-2006 at 6:52am
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Reidp
Thanks for the info.I like the concept..except the screws and the fact that water will get between the layers. If that was my boat, I think I would lay plywood and water proof it the best I could. Then reuse that floor pan for sure.Water will, for sure get between the layers, but I think it would be worth it. ------------- Scott |
Posted By: reidp
Date Posted: March-15-2006 at 4:32pm
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Scott,
I'm with you 110% and exactly what I will do when my time inevitably comes again. The fiberglass under the glass floor pan gave insufficient long-lived bite for the screws and esp for the front seats. I've never seen any that hadn't lost their bite and pulled loose. And of course as you said, the water will go in every little hole. My only concern with glassing in the compartments is the build-up of moisture and subsequent rotting of the wood. The very best preserved stringers and framing are found in the earliest glass (and wood) boats which contained no foam at all. The wood floor boards are simply screwed to the stringers and frames like an early wood boat. I've got a 63 Classic and had two different 65 Mustangs with original floor boards still in service with near perfect stringers and frames. I attribute this longevity mostly to the orig lack of foam and thus the ability for air and water to circulate throughout the frame work. Did I say that twice? And Scott, forget BKH and CA, come to NC. Lot of your buddies down here. BKH, I hope to meet you in Wisc this summer. ------------- ReidP /diaries/details.asp?ID=231&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 1973 Mustang |
Posted By: scott8370
Date Posted: March-15-2006 at 5:26pm
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Two ways around the foam issue: #1 No foam
#2 corragated material surrounding the foam leaving an air space around the stringers and plywood I don't know...I have nothing better to do with my time. I was in NC one time, back in the 70s..I loved it ------------- Scott |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: March-15-2006 at 7:32pm
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Scott; Where are our pics? On your way to visit ReidP you gonna swing by Florida?
john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: scott8370
Date Posted: March-15-2006 at 8:12pm
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John
I just got to put that thing back together, and paint the trailer, then I'm done. I don't know about NC this year, but I hope to see you in Fl in a couple mnths. We just bought a lot on Cumberland a couple weeks ago. Can't afford to put anything on it right now, but when we can maybe we can meet up.Norris is close right? ------------- Scott |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: March-15-2006 at 9:02pm
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We are lookin forward to seein' ya here. You will like Cumberland. Lots of my Ohio buddies went there as it is closer than Norris. We'll do a "home and away" series. I'll come there if you guys will come to Norris. I'd love to drive that Torino.
john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: bigwavedave
Date Posted: March-15-2006 at 9:20pm
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ReidP, you sound pretty knowledgeable about my Mustang. I am planning to keep the fiberglass pan; am not putting foam back in; need to install wood floor; what type of wood would you use, and how would you treat it? Another issue: there is no drainage capability between the stringers--do I drill holes to provide drainage toward the bilge? How do you keep the stringers from rotting?
Dave ------------- bigwavedave |
Posted By: Mojoman
Date Posted: March-17-2006 at 1:51pm
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Bigwavedave,,
Glad to see ya register for Green... No 69' Mustang's yet, so that will be perfect !!!! You'll have a great time !! Reid and the guys could tell you in greater detail, but the hull should drain towards the transom from all areas and then feed to the center to the bilge.. At the ends of the stringers there should be unobstructed area for the water to work around and back to the center.. (am I correct guys)?? Moj 
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Posted By: scott8370
Date Posted: March-17-2006 at 2:12pm
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Yes.And some drill through the stringers,for additional drainage,if needed. Don't do it unless you know what your doing
Hey Moj,you check out that 1000.00 boat? ------------- Scott |
Posted By: Mojoman
Date Posted: March-17-2006 at 3:20pm
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Scott, I called the guy, but have'nt driven over to check it out.. The guy said it's been uncovered all winter and the trailer looks horrible but it will roll, he said. hahaha.. Engine block is probably in pieces from the ice flow going through it, but come Monday I should be able to check it out..
Moj' |
Posted By: stang72
Date Posted: March-19-2006 at 10:17pm
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Dave...it's interesting...I have a 62 classic that never had foam. The fact that it could drain and dry has kept the original stringers pristine...it's unbelievable! Even the original plywood floor is still good! The reason I know the floor is original is...it has hull ID # stamped as do the seat frames!
If you are not putting foam back in , you can carefully make drainage holes though the stringers....be sure to glass in (seal) the exposed wood where the new holes are. ------------- stang Face plants are not that funny when it's you face! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/images/3720/photo1.jpg" rel="nofollow - The Super Air |