need help identifying this Correct Craft
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31881
Printed Date: November-28-2024 at 3:02am
Topic: need help identifying this Correct Craft
Posted By: JSA1967
Subject: need help identifying this Correct Craft
Date Posted: October-25-2013 at 1:12am
Can anyone give me a possible year this boat may have been built? Type of engine? Any other items about this model? I have only seen pics of it so far and not sure if this one is worth pursuing. I'm new to the boating thing and don't want to take on a project that may be more than I bargained for! Since I started doing a little research on this craft and found this site I can definitely see how these Ski Nautique's can grow on you! Thanks in advance for any info!     ------------- J. Angel |
Replies:
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: October-25-2013 at 7:55am
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There are others that can provide model year info, but for starters, the large hull-side logos are incorrect. It is not a Ski Nautique, as you can see the dashboard plaque and the plate say Martinique. ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: bhectus
Date Posted: October-25-2013 at 9:38am
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Looks like '72-73 Martinique to me. Check out the brochure section here on the site. ------------- '02 Ski Nautique 196 w/ 5.7 Apex bowtie - Sold '87 Barefoot - sold '97 Super Sport Nautique - originally custom built for Walt Meloon '97 Ski Nautique '83 SN 2001 |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: October-25-2013 at 9:51am
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Spinning a Chrysler 318 and it already has a ski pylon! Definitely a Martinique like said above. Very cool boats. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-25-2013 at 10:39am
Me too. The pylon is newer (76+) though. |
bhectus wrote:Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: October-25-2013 at 12:47pm
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Looking closer I see that it has an observer style seat with a drivers bucket. Ever seen that before Tim? Most of the early MQs I have seen are bench seat with forward facing back. Also missing the correct thermostat housing? ------------- |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: October-25-2013 at 1:07pm
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You said you don't want a project. That boats a project. I don't know your budget, but I've seen many Correct Craft boats in better shape than that one for 4K to 7K. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: October-25-2013 at 3:27pm
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Brian, he said more than he bargained for ;). Gotta figure out what his bargaining budged is.. But like Brian said you can pick up very nice 2001 hull boats (Ski Nautique from 1982-1989) for the 5-7k range these days. Do a forum search on what to buy for or buying tips and boat buyer check list. This stuff has been covered time and time again and there is a massive wealth of information on this topic saved within this web forum. I would bet that this is the best resource in the world for tips on buying a used inboard ski boat (especially vintage). ------------- |
Posted By: JSA1967
Date Posted: October-27-2013 at 3:22pm
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Thanks everyone for the info! No wonder I couldn't find a Ski Nautique that looked like it. I guess the previous owners(s)wanted it to "look" like something it isn't by putting incorrect logos on it and changing other items.?.?. I can get the boat for free and thought it might make a fun project. I will definitely have to spend a lot of time on this site to get me through this project if I decide to take it on! Phatsat67, you mentioned it looks to have a Chrysler 318. I haven't been able to find that motor listed as being used? Do you think the original was changed out? Sorry for the silly questions but I am a real newbie to this!  ------------- J. Angel |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-27-2013 at 5:11pm
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More than likely original,Chryslers were very popular back in the day, most likely came with good credit terms for Correct Craft  All they really did was to put Ski Nautique on the sides,not the first time that has been done---  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Smithfamily
Date Posted: October-27-2013 at 8:35pm
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Freeeee?!!? Grab it and get to work!! ------------- Js |
Posted By: 65 'cuda
Date Posted: October-28-2013 at 10:55am
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It's a '72 or earlier, if it was manufactured after nov 1, 1972 it would have a Hull Identification Number "CTC..." number on the transom, not a MQ serial number on the plate. Looks to be a '72. ------------- Gary http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=941" rel="nofollow - 1965 Barracuda SS |
Posted By: JSA1967
Date Posted: October-28-2013 at 11:42pm
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Thanks 65! So your saying that since the plate is marked "MQ" there probably is not a number on the transom then? I had my son look for a marking on the transom but he said he didn't see anything. I will get to see the boat next week. I've been doing a lot of reading on this site and saw some info on how to check the stringers for rot. I'll post my findings and see what all of you think. ------------- J. Angel |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-29-2013 at 1:32am
See what we think??? You said it's Free. Just haul it home put a few bucks into it to get it running and drive it like you stole it because you did  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: JSA1967
Date Posted: October-29-2013 at 2:20am
Hard to beat FREE  . I'm go'in blind reading all I can about these boats! Can't wait to see it in person next week! ------------- J. Angel |
Posted By: JSA1967
Date Posted: November-15-2013 at 12:40am
I got to see the boat and was really pumped to get it home...then I got the bad news. A family member of the person who owns the boat said they still wanted it.  I was pretty bummed but I'm not going to give up yet. I have really enjoyed learning from all you at this site and hope to someday soon be a fellow Correct Craft owner.  Until then I will keep reading the posts and enjoying this great forum!------------- J. Angel |
Posted By: Smithfamily
Date Posted: November-15-2013 at 9:05am
I hate when that happens.... You ought to get your contact info to that person, because, likely, nothing will be done to it once they get it and see the work it needs, and the money it will take. ------------- Js |
Posted By: JSA1967
Date Posted: November-16-2013 at 1:21am
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I will for sure because I don't know if they realize a raccoon or squirrel was living in it and has been tearing out the upholstery! ------------- J. Angel |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-19-2016 at 2:54am
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So this exact boat is now in my possession. I bought it from the owner of a boat sales near Herriman, Utah. I did get it cheap and was purchased in Nov 2015. The engine coding on the block says it's an LM motor which if I am not mistaken is a reverse rotation engine? Wires on the motor were in the 18436572 firing order and when I opened up the timing cover and valve covers, I don't think this motor has ever been ran. No bluing or wear marks of any kind. I have tried both firing orders, changing timing, but have not been able to get t to fire. If anyone can help, where do I start in finding out which way this should spin regardless of numbers or starter direction? This seems to have been monkeyed with a lot and I would love to not have to pull it down to the cam to figure this out. I just got all the correct hoses, stat housing etc on it. HELP? ------------- Rick |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-19-2016 at 6:16am
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Rick, Congratulations on the purchase of a classic CC. Take a look in the reference section under manuals. There's a Chrysler manual that will tell you what you need. Have you checked for spark and fuel? Considering how long it's not been run, I suggest cleaning up the point set contacts. There may be surface corrosion on them preventing the grounding of the coil. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-19-2016 at 12:28pm
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Yes, on the checks. New points and condenser, new carburetor. I'll check out the manual. I have a degree in automotive technology but haven't messed with this older stuff for decades and have never had to deal with boats, reverse rotation etc. Here we go! ------------- Rick |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-19-2016 at 12:42pm
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[QUOTE=rilee29] . I'll check out the manual. I have a degree in automotive technology [QUOTE] You can't plug any diagnostic tools in to these older engines! Dig out your old timing light, the dwell meter and the VOM!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-19-2016 at 12:57pm
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If you're going clockwise around the dizzy from #1 that firing order is for a Chevy. I have no idea what a RR rotation Mopar firing order is or which way the dizzy turns in that scenario but I would be really surprised if it's the same as a bowtie. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-20-2016 at 1:22pm
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Near as I can tell, the distributor always turns clockwise. I was surprised at the firing order too, but it's correct according to the manuals I've seen. It's reversed for the reverse rotation engine and same for standard rotation. Now I have to figure out if this motor has been rebuilt incorrectly or if I need a different starter. ------------- Rick |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-20-2016 at 2:00pm
Rick, Looking at the front of the engine, a RR will turn counterclockwise. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-20-2016 at 4:11pm
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So the starter spins the motor ccw.looking at it from the front. I have a picture of the block casting. I'll try and post it. Not sure of all the number but it definitely ends in 318-2. ------------- Rick |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-20-2016 at 6:02pm
It's time for your really big surprise now Eddie. Small block Mopar firing order and cylinder numbering scheme is the same as a Chevy. The distributor turns clockwise for both normal and reverse rotation, the same as a Chevy too For rilee29, with the distributor cap off look at your rotor and see which way it's spinning when you're cranking the engine over. If the rotor is going clockwise you've at least got the right starter. If it's going counterclockwise.......it ain't gonna start no matter what order you use. It would mean you have the wrong rotation starter in there. Edit Chrysler's LM designation is for a marine engine Hope this helps you some KenO |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-20-2016 at 6:36pm
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So distributor is turning clockwise. That makes the starter right. Motor is spinning ccw at front. Clockwise at the flywheel. That makes this a rr engine so the casting marks are correct. I am starting my firing order with #1 on the cap in the middle pointing at the carb. Clockwise, 12756348. Timing is 2.5 degree btdc. (A GUESS) Gap on points at .018. New points, cap, rotor, and plugs AND WIRES. Also a new carb. Checked for spark and good. Tried ether and gas and I still have nothing. ...anyone see something I'm not? ------------- Rick |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-20-2016 at 7:00pm
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Rick, There's not much left that would prevent that engine from running except compression!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-20-2016 at 7:08pm
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150 straight across within 1 psi. Maybe I need a heavier duty battery? I have to retard timing a bit to get it to even turn over...scratching my head for sure! ------------- Rick |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-20-2016 at 7:25pm
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Rick, Get some volt readings at the battery (on the posts - not the cable terminals) and then all the way through to the starter during cranking. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: July-20-2016 at 8:11pm
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something doesn't sound right with your timing... that battery could be weak, but if you can make the motor spin with the starter by retarding the timing, it sounds to me like you have a plug out of order, or you have #1 180° out. Make sure you have #1 it on the compression stroke when you mark the distributor, location of #1 wire doesn't matter, as long as the rotor points to the plug wire in the right order. Since you have a Mopar, make sure you are actually putting #1 where it should be on the motor as well. Ford/Chevy are different, so double confirm... |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: July-20-2016 at 8:22pm
Here is a diagram for you - pulled from another site, but it looks to be comprehensive. Also to note, the distributor is shown in a schematic location, your dist. looks like it is in the back of the motor by the flywheel... This Schematic diagram looks as if the dist is in the front of the engine... cylinder location is the same, compared to the flywheel, the diagram is just a bit confusing. 
|
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-20-2016 at 10:03pm
Thanks for the info Ken. Much appreciated. Chrysler and Chevy engineers had to be working together,...LOL. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-20-2016 at 10:21pm
Firing order is reversed. Need to verify which terminal on the cap is truly #1. It could be any of them. Get to compression stroke of #1 cylinder and see which terminal the rotor is at. That's #1. and CW from there. 18436572 Thanks again Ken... ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-20-2016 at 10:28pm
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Or is the firing order truly reversed even if the dizzy spins the same direction for RR engines??? Wow, I feel like friggin' rookie here. Guess that's why I stick with standard rotation engines.  ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-20-2016 at 10:57pm
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He needs the reverse rotation firing order which is how he says it's hooked up now. That would be 1 2 7 5 6 3 4 8. And rilee that LM designation just means it's a Chrysler marine engine and tells you nothing about direction of rotation although it certainly seems that you have a RR engine based on your rotation observations. Like Eddie and DesertSkier I have the feeling you haven't correctly found TDC for #1 cylinder and then oriented the distributor wires so that the terminal the rotor is pointing at is by default the terminal for #1 spark plug wire, then go clockwise from there with the Reverse rotation firing order.. Just a feelin KenO |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-21-2016 at 1:14am
think I have found it. Firing orders and plug wire orientation were correct. I had spark, but was checking it at the coil. Turns out somehow my distributor is shorting out. I can light my test light on the outside casing. more old time checking I had forgotten about. Any recommendations for a distributor upgrade that doesn't cost more than the $500 I paid for the boat and the extra $500 I have put into everything else so far?  ------------- Rick |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-21-2016 at 10:02am
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Sounds to me like a good inspection of the distributor wire from the coil negative terminal where it enters the distributor and replacement of at least the points and condenser would maybe solve your problem. And making sure you have a distributor body ground to the engine |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-21-2016 at 10:42am
Yes, I have found this wire frayed where it goes through the distributor body causing a continuous grounding of the coil. I also suggest taking a step beyond the test light and getting a VOM. Inexpensive meters are around $25 and will tell you much more. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: July-21-2016 at 2:08pm
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So maybe my ignorance is showing out a bit here, but I have never heard of having a distributor body light up a test light before. How can that be possible? Seems to me that the light would flash on momentarily if the spark was jumping to ground if there was a problem with the internals of the distributor, but that would also suggest that touching the distributor during cranking would give you one nasty surprise. If the light lights when standing still (which is what it sounds like to me from your description above), I might be tempted to think your battery positive and negative are reversed... If the positive was going straight to the engine block, it seems like you would get this result. Since this is an old boat without electronic parts, You might be able to do a positive "ground" without having to send parts back to the factory to have the smoke reinstalled . Seems like this would make the starter spin backwards too and without having much power. If I am totally off base, I would love to be educated. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-21-2016 at 2:14pm
Kris, It's got me confused as well. It's got to be the way Rick described it?? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-21-2016 at 3:02pm
i could say something like "this should be intuitively obvious to the most casual observer" but I'd be lyin". It wasn't much of a description of how he did this, but it's coming from the battery one way or another. I guess he'll probably have a better description coming along soon though. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-21-2016 at 3:36pm
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Rick, The body of a distributor is grounded to the block. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-21-2016 at 3:55pm
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I'm still struggling to understand a bit of it myself. The points and condenser are new. They were installed by the previous owner who owned Taylor Marine in Salt Lake. Obviously the smart ones had trouble too. I bought a new coil and ballast last night and that's when I noticed the magic leaking. Test light lighting was an accidental find but in any case, everything got shut down. I know power to the casing should not happen so I am looking for a electronic conversion plate for the distributor. I hate hunting down 50 year old problems. Off to the parts house again......btw...I have a wiring schematic so wiring has all been checked by me and another person for correctness. I'll post later when I find parts. ------------- Rick |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-21-2016 at 4:25pm
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Rick, When you're out, get that VOM so you can do some decent testing and not just start throwing parts at it. We'll guide you through it. When you get that test light to light up, where exactly are you touching the probes? Also, is that with the ignition switch turned to the run position? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-21-2016 at 4:49pm
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Test light was resting about an inch from the distributor wire on the case when I turned the key to the run position. Within seconds I started to see smoke at the ballast too so I shut down and disconnected the distributor wire. Everything was OK then. I assumed the wire was shorting internally in the distributor. I have a dvom. You guys are awesome to even take the time to brainstorm with me! Thanks a ton! ------------- Rick |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-24-2016 at 12:18pm
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so patience does pay off! On a classified add site yesterday and snagged an HEI conversion distributor (brand New) for $50. Any comments pro or con to using one of these? Seems like a great idea me being a GM guy. I am hoping to create some confidence and longevity in this boat running and not leaving me stranded....lol Besides, I can take back the $63 in parts I just bought for the old ignition system. ------------- Rick |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-24-2016 at 12:55pm
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Well sooner or later somebody will ask if it's a marine distributor so it might as well be sooner like right now. Is it a marine distributor?
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Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: July-24-2016 at 6:21pm
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If you do have a Reverse Rotation Motor, the gear on the distributor will have to be different for the Reverse Rotation. Maybe you are planning on this. I grew up with a 72 Martinique with a Ford 302 Holman Moody motor that my Uncle owned on White Lake NC. They sold the boat in 1980 and I would love to find it, but I probably need to be careful what I hope for. ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens 2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-24-2016 at 6:27pm
Yup, it's a RR:
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: July-24-2016 at 7:13pm
Is your distributor branded DUI? several guys have converted to them, and they seem to be a good alternative to standard Distributors. I hope it all goes well for you. Post up some pictures of what you picked up  |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-24-2016 at 7:40pm
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A 318 Chrysler doesn't have a gear on the distributor, the gear stays in the engine and there is a slot on the top. The end of the distributor shaft has a short male stub on it that fits in the female slot. Kinda like..........well never mind. Bound to get some comments on that description. KenO |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-24-2016 at 7:48pm
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Ken, Just so you don't have to further describe male shafts fitting into female slots, here's the picture:  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-24-2016 at 7:53pm
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How do i get pictures on here from my phone? Cut and paste option doesn't seem to exist? ------------- Rick |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-24-2016 at 9:18pm
Thanks Pete You could have at least shown a marine distributor though
|
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-24-2016 at 9:35pm
No problem Ken. I did try to find a picture of a marine but none I could find showed the shaft end. For those who may not know the difference, the one shown is an automotive since it has a vacuum advance. It's the round diaphragm chamber on the side. Marine units are mechanical advance. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Chevy350
Date Posted: July-24-2016 at 9:36pm
Well its easier to do on comupter, but click on the tree with the up arrow, then choose the picture you want. Like I said it's easier to put the photos on your computer and upload load them from there. ------------- 1972 Mustang |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: July-25-2016 at 2:08pm
Wow, I did not know that. Very cool. Donald ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens 2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 2:30am
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since I am not savvy enough to do the pics, the distributor is a Proform part # 67040. I installed it today and we have the baby breathing again! Sounds awesome! I am pretty sure the block is a reman, but with the HEI and the 750 Summit carb, it is very responsive. Had to rebuild the water pump today also. I don't seem to be getting the water flow where it should be though. I am using one of those plunger looking gismos on the underside of the boat . the attached hose goes to both the pump inlet and the oil cooler. I have seen some pretty clean looking setups on the internet and tried to make sure mine was the same, but who knows if they are correct.... ------------- Rick |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 2:40am
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click on the tree with the up arrow, then choose the picture you want. Sorry, but I am not seeing any trees on the controls of this site. Geographically speaking, where are those controls? ------------- Rick |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 3:08am
  ------------- Rick |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 8:46am
I suppose the good news is that it runs but the bad news is that the distributor isn't a marine certified unit and the carburetor if it's one of the Summit label Holley knockoffs isn't either. You can search on here or do a Google search about marine carbs and distributors to see what the differences are. I like to stay out of conversations about people using non marine parts and why it was OK in their mind to use it or "convert" something though, I figure you'll get some opinions for sure though. KenO |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 9:32am
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Rick, I too don't like commenting on the use of non marine rated items. Earlier in this thread the automotive distributor was described:
I'm very sorry that you ether ignored the description or hopefully just missed it. The bottom line is your engine may be running on the hose but it WILL NOT perform properly under load on the water. The other issue is you will be driving a potential BOMB!!! Should we move onto what carb is on the engine?? BTW, don't be fooled that the cooling system is working. The pressure from the hose will mask problems. Find the "bucket test" thread in the FAQ's. Also, I'm glad you found the icon of the tree with the up arrow! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 11:24am
Ya, so I'm not into driving bombs... I have the original carb I can go back to and for my own sanity I am sorry to ask the stupid question, but what's the difference in what I have and the marine parts that converts it back and forth from usable to self exploding?  ------------- Rick |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 11:35am
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Fuel leak /overflow protection on the carb/fuel pump/etc, spark suppression on the dist/alt/starter. The bilge is sealed, unlike a car- makes it very easy for fumes or leaked fuel to combine with a spark and blow the top off |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: July-26-2016 at 11:38am
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Because the boat is under your engine, as opposed to in a car where there is the ground under your engine you have to worry about the heavier than air gas fumes that accumulate. You need to first minimize those fumes, and secondly avoid making sparks that can ignite the fumes that cannot be minimized. A marine carb, besides be tuned for the constant load of marine use is build to dump any extra fuel into the engine and not out side of the carb where it will puddle in the bilge and make fumes. Marine distributors have to be built to contain the sparks they make and any explosions they may ignite. But also they do not have a vacuum advance because the engine is under a constant load. They need to utilize only a centrifugal advance in order to make the engine perform optimally. Just capping off the vacuum advance port on most automotive distributors will not provide you with enough total advance to make the engine perform optimally starting, off idle and through the top end. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: rilee29
Date Posted: July-30-2016 at 1:41pm
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Thanks for all the input! I gave up trying to loosen my steering cable yesterday after days of drowning it in WD40. I removed the old cable and took it in to find a replacement. No one seemed to be able to find a match until finally the parts guy said" They haven't put quick disconnect ball joints on steering cables for years! They outlawed them long ago because the ball would break off and cause crashes". An adapter for both cable ends upgraded my equipment and I was off! Even the stupid questions and answers are great for us first timers. And thanks for tuning down the sarcasm....haha. BTW....i have started changing out all the fuel and electrical part on this boat motor with common sense safety in mind for sure. If I want a boat, why have one I worry about constantly if it's safe right? I just got married this year. I want to keep her around for as long as i can! That means keep her safe as well as happy! ------------- Rick |