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Pennzoil HD40

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3214
Printed Date: January-16-2025 at 8:48am


Topic: Pennzoil HD40
Posted By: M3Fan
Subject: Pennzoil HD40
Date Posted: March-19-2006 at 5:11pm
Anybody use this oil? My new boat has had nothing but straight 40 so I suppose I'll keep the trend going even though it seems like I should use a multigrade in this climate. This Pennzoil seems to be the easiest straight weight for me to find. Any feedback on Penn's HD series? According to their website it is their version of straight weight oil.



Replies:
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: March-20-2006 at 9:52am
I know I am going to get slammed for this or at least start an oil war. But, my OPPINION on Pennzoil AND Quaker State is that the two brands have a high parafin concentration that can lead to gunk/crude build up in the engine IF the oil is not religiously changed before the additives are used up.

My favorite brand (non synthetic) of oil is Valvoline (Racing). My favorite synthetics are Amsoil and Red Line equally.

My theory on dino oil weights are:
1. Up to 50,000 miles (or equivalent hours) use 10w40 (southern climate point of view).
2. After 50,000 miles (or equivalent hours) 20w50.

I use 15w40 synthetic from second oil change onward. I avoid switching high mileage engines to synthetic due to potential seal leak problems and unknown engine cleanliness.

With all that said, to each his own and I am not interested in a oil war as this is only MY oppinion.


Posted By: The Lake
Date Posted: March-20-2006 at 10:14am
I've been running Castrol 10-40 in my old 68 318 Chrysler. I live in Missouri, keep the boat warm in the garage, and drop it in the lake about once a month, running it for 15-20 minutes.

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Walk on Water
www.coldwater.me


http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique


Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: March-20-2006 at 10:59am
I use 5w-30. Straight 40 is thick.

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Tim D


Posted By: woodboy
Date Posted: March-20-2006 at 11:10am
M3fan

I agree with Tim straight 40 is very thick and may compromise oil flow especially witha cold engne. Valvoline seems to be the choice of many knowledegeable boaters/hotrodders. My dad owns a Lucas Oil sponsered 69 Chevelle that was tested with several dino oils and turned the fastest times consistently with valvoline. I know this is not apples to apples but it convinced me. 10-40 in older V-8's is plenty heavy. My marina recommends 15-45 for a 77 mercruiser and that feels thick too I'm stickin with 10-40 this year.

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Lake Livin' Rocks


Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: March-20-2006 at 9:53pm
I have been a fan of Valvoline oils through the years myself. One of the most famous racing engine builders of all time, Smokey Yunick, was also a user of this oil. Smokey says that Valvoline is a "low ash" oil which means that as the oil burns (whatever amount that is, because all motors do burn some) Valvoline (compared to some oils) leaves very little ash deposits behind. That means your engine stays cleaner inside for a longer period of time. And I agree with the weight as stated above, 10W-40 is right for just about any climate. Unless you live in Arizona, Southern Texas or anywhere else where it gets over 100 degrees. Then I'd use 20W-50 or straight 40 weight. I also agree with the statement made about Pennzoil. I had a friend who had a Chevy Silverado with about 90K miles. He had been a religious P'oil user and had the truck since new. When I looked under the valve cover on this truck, it looked like the famous Quaker State horror story from the past. I'd stay clear of these 2 brands (Pennzoil and Quaker State). I also believe Castol and Kendall are excellent products.

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95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier

Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)


Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: March-21-2006 at 11:25am
Definatly stay clear of Quaker State. I ran it in my old Cuda 340. When I pulled the engine down it was totally clogged with gunk. (They make good oats though.) My vote is either Castrol or Valvoline. Do they still make Amelie? (sp?) If so, avoid it also.

I think the weight depends on where you live and how you run the boat. Being a simple minded sole I use straight 30 weight high detergent and always idle until full engine temp is reached - sometimes a little longer. (Never run non-detergent.) (Probably, your oil changing habits are more important than anything else, brand included.)And of course, an oil war IS definatly pending.

As a matter of fact, I will return later. I have to go change my oil - Labor Day is coming!!!! Summer!!!!

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Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: March-21-2006 at 3:09pm
Anybody have an opinion on the Diesel/Marine 15-40 that some manufacturers now require?


Posted By: dans
Date Posted: March-26-2006 at 8:12pm
Valvoline 40 wt (racing) works great on my 82 2001. Dallas , tx weather. Dan


Posted By: 882001
Date Posted: March-26-2006 at 8:20pm
delo and rotella are both hd and come in 15w40 and are both hd. i use rotella in the 88. i would use castrol if those wernt avalaible my .02

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kemah texas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=163&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - 1988
skinautique "2001"


Posted By: AWhite70
Date Posted: March-26-2006 at 8:58pm
I use Castrol's HD 15W-40 (Diesel oil) in my '02 Ski 196 with the Excalibur. PCM recommends 15W-40 for that engine. I also started using the same in my '79 SN PCM 351 and it seems to work great. I used to run 30W in the '79 but wanted to consolidate my oil varieties in the garage.

Mobil 1 5W-30 for the '03 Silverado & '99 Trans Am
Castrol GTX 5W-30 for the wifes '98 Malibu
Castrol Tection 15W-40 for the boats

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AWhite70

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=562&sort=revyear&pagenum=5&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - '79 Ski Nautique


Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: March-29-2006 at 10:05pm
I've always liked Castrol 20W-50 year 'round in Central Texas.
As far as the parafin build up in the engine, I've heard it all my life but I don't beleive it. While it is true Pennsilvaina CRUDE leaves parafin as a final distillation product, it is also true Texas CRUDE leaves asphalt as a final distillation product. The motor oil fraction is heavier than gasoline or diesel but it still isn't the bottom of the barrel. After the motor oil comes off, there's still heavy oil, grease and waxes. Then you get to the real nasty stuff and finally the asphalt or parafin.
I don't doubt after years of use there will be some goo buildup but the goo is neither parafin nor asphalt. It's long chain hydrocarbons that would be there regardless which brand of oil you used. I suspect the weight oil used would make a difference on how much goo but it'd need to think about it more.
Plus, nowadays, there's no telling what the origin of the crude was for any of the brands of motor oil.
This is the first time I've heard the low ash argument for Valoline and I'll buy that. I'm sure they use an additive to help it burn cleanly (like an oxygenate).
I've also been thinking about HD or Diesel Engine Oils. But it might be overkill unless you don't change the oil regularly?


Posted By: 64 Skier
Date Posted: March-30-2006 at 7:16am
40 weight is too thick IMHO. Filters have an internal bypass for just this reason. On start-up when the oil is thick it will bypass the filter elements and possibly or always partially bypass a certain amount of oil due to viscosity causing a high pressure drop across the filter paper.

Some very good articles about this bypassing as well as filter quality. Fram was slammed....K&N's are very good.

Thin oil provides more lubrication and will most always be filtered thus a cleaner oil circulating through the engine.

15W-40 is what PCM recommends. On start-up the engine has a much easier time lubricating with the thin oil.

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64 Skier
66" HO VTX and 67" HO Triumph
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1071&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 71CC


Posted By: john33617
Date Posted: March-31-2006 at 4:55am
I use walmart 10-30 was cheap , gone from 4.39 to 6.39 for 5 qts , rotella best dino oil , 7.50 gal , pour waste oil in my trucks fuel tank , the more oil I put in the better it runs , sometimes 2-3 gal per tank .


Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: March-31-2006 at 6:00am
Hey! Great idea john33617. I'm with you. Only difference is I think I will start dumping my waste oil in my neighbor's car to see if it helps him run better.

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Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang


Posted By: john33617
Date Posted: March-31-2006 at 7:54am
don't pour it in without some kind of filter , paper towel , rag or it could plug the fuel filter , and don't go over 30-40 percent , it will start smoking , the power gain is amazing.


Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: March-31-2006 at 12:23pm
I hope y'all are talking about burning it in a Diesel engine.


Posted By: Darrel
Date Posted: March-31-2006 at 12:33pm
You're pouring old 10-30 oil into your gas tank? I've never heard of anything like that b4. This is just an early April Fools Day joke, right?


Posted By: john33617
Date Posted: March-31-2006 at 1:51pm
this is from the EPA website.                 Used Oil Can Be Recycled in the Following Ways:

Reconditioned on site, which involves removing impurities from the used oil and using it again. While this form of recycling might not restore the oil to its original condition, it does prolong its life.

Inserted into a petroleum refinery, which involves introducing used oil as a feedstock into either the front end of the process or the coker to produce gasoline and coke.

Re-refined, which involves treating used oil to remove impurities so that it can be used as a base stock for new lubricating oil. Re-refining prolongs the life of the oil resource indefinitely. This form of recycling is the preferred option because it closes the recycling loop by reusing the oil to make the same product that it was when it started out, and therefore uses less energy and less virgin oil.

Processed and burned for energy recovery, which involves removing water and particulates so that used oil can be burned as fuel to generate heat or to power industrial operations. This form of recycling is not as preferable as methods that reuse the material because it only enables the oil to be reused once. Nonetheless, valuable energy is provided (about the same as provided by normal heating oil).


Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: March-31-2006 at 2:16pm
Originally posted by john33617 john33617 wrote:


Processed and burned for energy recovery, which involves removing water and particulates so that used oil can be burned as fuel to generate heat or to power industrial operations. This form of recycling is not as preferable as methods that reuse the material because it only enables the oil to be reused once. Nonetheless, valuable energy is provided (about the same as provided by normal heating oil).


That doesn't mean it's ok to spike your car's gas tank with used oil. They're talking about firing cement kilns, boiling water for electricity generation and large stationary equiptment or ships.

I wouldn't pour any used oil in a gasoline engine. Oil burns way too hot (too many BTUs). A Diesel Engine, maybe.


Posted By: 64 Skier
Date Posted: April-02-2006 at 7:53am
Took a while, but I found this post. Very interesting read:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

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64 Skier
66" HO VTX and 67" HO Triumph
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1071&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 71CC


Posted By: boysrus
Date Posted: April-05-2006 at 3:30pm
I've been away from this for quite a while now (was a certified marine mechanic for OMC, Volvo, Mercruiser and BMW back in the 70's-80's). But it used to be that all of the marine companies specified straight weight oil in thier applications. They marine service to towing a 3,000 Lb trailer behind your car or pick-up continuously up a 15% grade with gas to the floor or close to it. Obviously, that's much harder on engines (and the oil) than automotive service.
The problem with multi weights was (speaking from 20 years ago) that they were based on the lower grade stock, with additives to reduce viscosity reduction with temperature. So you start with a 10W oil, and add stuff to make it look like a 40W oil when it's at high temp. Those additives used to be unreliable, and would break down under severe duty - leaving you with 10W oil in your expensive boat motor.

I stuck by that for years - only running 40W (Valvoline, for what it's worth) in my boats (my last one going over 1700 hours while I owned it - and still running to this day).

Recently, I've done more reading and got comfortable with the multiweight synthetics. In fact, I think Mercruiser even markets one. I now run a heavy duty 15W-40 synthetic in my GT-40 engine. Time will tell if that was a good decision....

Bottom line - I'd either stick with a straight weight, or a multiweight that was specifically designed for severe service. But that's my opinion....

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Jeff
'01 Air


Posted By: 64 Skier
Date Posted: April-06-2006 at 7:12am
I usually run straight 30W with a 160 or 180 Deg thermostat. Running a 140 Degree thermostat could reduce lubrication with more viscous oils.

In the early 80's I ran 10-40 (lot's of different brands) and after the engine was hot and had made several 5000 RPM runs the oil lost the High Vis would drip like water off the dip stick. Guess I need to do this with the ski boat.

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64 Skier
66" HO VTX and 67" HO Triumph
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1071&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 71CC



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