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URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=32684 Printed Date: February-02-2025 at 2:00am
Topic: Pier & Dock Building or Buying Ideas WantedPosted By: quinner
Subject: Pier & Dock Building or Buying Ideas Wanted
Date Posted: January-17-2014 at 11:54am
Need to purchase or build a new dock/pier this spring, to get the needed depth will be going out 40', would like the last 10'-12' to be maybe 16'-20' wide so we can have a seating area and our boat lifts on each side. Everything will be on legs/feet and needs to come out each season for the winter, so not too heavy.
So far the cheapest new 4'x10' aluminum sections with feet are pricing out at $550+ each of which I need at least (8).
Looking for suggestions on a good resources for new or used? In/around northern Illinois/southern Wisco?? Very locally spoke to McHenry piers, they will be getting me pricing after the boat show this weekend.
Also want to explore building my own so looking for ideas, pics, links, etc. for a DIY pier including a source for any necessary hardware like legs, posts, feet, etc.
Oh Yeah, anybody want to go to a pier building party this spring, free beer, food and pulls behind the boat???
Replies: Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-17-2014 at 12:16pm
What ever you decide to do take your phone out of your pocket before you start How come it has to be removeable?
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: January-17-2014 at 12:17pm
I am a similar situation except with shallower water I need to go out about 80 ft. Watch the craigslist like a hawk- Aluminum and plastic versions just aint cheap even if you make them. A couple months ago I scored 7 sections of 5'x8' alumidock with all hardware and legs for 600 bucks - now I just need to come up with 2100 or so for the last three sections I would need.
Posted By: Hansel
Date Posted: January-17-2014 at 6:32pm
Hey Quinner,
What is the bottom of the lake like? Sandy? Mucky? How deep is the water?
We have a more or less homemade wood dock that is ~100 ft long (sandy and shallow).
J
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: January-17-2014 at 7:28pm
I'm a big fan of http://www.dhdocks.com/lakesideliving/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=60" rel="nofollow - DH Docks for dock hardware. I built my own dock out of 2x6 and decking with the DH hardware on all 4 corners of each section. Rigid conduit for the legs with DH Docks feet on them. Easy to get in and out every year and get leveled, seems like the dock will last forever. Very solid and professional looking. I want to say the cost for the whole thing which is 60' long and 8x8 at the end was ~1500 or so.
------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: January-17-2014 at 7:46pm
quinner wrote:
Oh Yeah, anybody want to go to a pier building party this spring, free beer, food and pulls behind the boat???
How much time would I have to spend with you? Just kidding man, I could hop on the megabus for that.
------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: January-17-2014 at 7:47pm
We use drill stem with concrete on top, downs come out ever.
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: January-17-2014 at 8:08pm
Joel that is OUTSTANDING! Lol
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Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: January-18-2014 at 11:12am
Go ahead a buy any metal you need, because the price is going to jump big very soon. Especially metal roofing.
------------- Tim D
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-18-2014 at 11:53am
Chris, If you can go with the aluminum, go for it. The wood DIY treated can get pretty heavy especially if you go wider that 3'. You will appreciate the weight difference as you get older! My pier up north is a white cedar sectional which is pretty light but I even have it taken in and out by the pier service.
The other option is to find an aluminum with the big fat wheels on the end (I don't know how long you can go with them?). If your beach allows, they can be hooked to your quad for the in and out.
Posted By: julfinfax
Date Posted: January-22-2014 at 12:04am
"Oh, my poor man," exclaimed the kind old lady, "It must be dreadful to be lame. But it would be much worse if you were blind." "You're absolutely right," said the beggar, obviously an old hand at the game." When I was blind, people kept giving me foreign coins."
------------- http://www.rsore.com/" rel="nofollow - old school runescape gold | http://www.fifa14coinstrader.com/" rel="nofollow - fifa coin trader
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: January-22-2014 at 5:55pm
Thanks Guys!!
Been watching CL, nothing popping up yet. The Aluminum stuff is pricey, no doubt.
Bottom is mostly sand, so the system Joel used would work well.
Joel, what size are your sections? Looks like 3' wide x 10' long? 5/4 board decking?? Did you use 2 (32" o.c.) or 3 (16" o.c.) 2x6 joist??
Thanks for the Hardware link also, looks like a good solution at substantially less cost then aluminum.
Tim D, could you elaborate why the cost of metal will be rising??
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: January-22-2014 at 6:09pm
I have a mix of 8' and 10' sections and they each have (3) 2x6 joists with the 5/4 decking on top. We bottomed out the big box store's rental F150 on the way home with that load! I think the width is just over 3' on the decking, maybe closer to 3'6". Easily put in and out with 2 people.
------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: January-22-2014 at 6:20pm
Quinner, I figured you would go with wood being a wood master and all?
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: January-22-2014 at 6:25pm
Buff the wood, buff the wood Come on, buff the wood
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-22-2014 at 7:02pm
quinner wrote:
Tim D, could you elaborate why the cost of metal will be rising??
Bush's fault
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: January-27-2014 at 5:39am
Free beer and maybe a pull for this old gimpy guy with some pointers? Thats all it takes here, as long as I have some advance warning. I have an aluminum Shore Station dock that I like pretty well. It is fairly light and comes apart and adjusts easily, however they are a bit pricy if you need the type of length you are talking about. I think there are other brands that are easier to adjust on the market now. I built a deck the summer before last and added a guest dock last fall so my guests can tie up and enjoy a refreshment when they visit. (Matt, Peter, don't forget to stop). They lower the water 3-1/2 feet or so for the winter so I waited until then. I had to shovel it two mornings to finish. A treated dock ids cheap at about $15 / ' in materials to construct. It is heavy and doesn't come apart easily though. Whatever you decide LMK if you want a hand.
Shore Station dock, a bit pricy but really easy. This one is ten years old.
This little 20" wood dock ( not stained yet) cost me just under $300 in materials but I had the pipe so I didn't price that in. You could just as easily use treated 4X4 for the posts. 2-2X8 joists with 5/4 inset on 2X4s sistered to the inside of the joists. I inset the legs to eliminate external hardware that could leave a mark and put mooring lines through the deck knotted for retention. 2'9" wide including the joists to get the most out of the 8' 5/4s. It looks odd with the water down. I had to make two trips to the lumber yard with my trailer. I figured the weight of dry treated. It was double that weight. the legs are vertical, the appearance that they are not vertical is an illusion.
Here is what it looks like with the water up. It is very secure and has a nice surface to walk on. This is before I built the deck.
------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late!
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: June-06-2014 at 12:38pm
Joel, thank you for the outstanding lead to DH, using their hardware, one question though, where did you get the 1.25" ID Schedule 40 Galv Pipe? DH wants $3.75 per ft, menards has "dock pipe" for about $2.00 per ft but it looks to be a lighter gauge.
So here is the plan & sections for a typical 4x10 section, Treated frame with Cedar decking, wanted a flush walking surface and the decking running in the direction of travel.
They are going to be a little heavy, close to 200lbs each but that's OK as I only need to handle them twice a year.
Lumber per section is about $90, dock hardware about $102 and the pipe about another $30.
Going out 80' and will have (2) sections off to one side to create a 12' X 10' deck at the end.
What do you all think??
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: June-06-2014 at 8:14pm
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-06-2014 at 8:58pm
Will 1 1/4 pipe hold up? What length do you need? I just bought 21 foot 1 1/2 black pipe at Menards,they were 55 ea.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-06-2014 at 9:53pm
Chris, One thing that bothers me is the weight of 200. Remember we are not getting any younger plus, HW may not be around to help you when needed. I can't lift much now like I used to!
I agree with Gary about the 1&1/4 pipe. I see in your material list they are for the 1&1/4 but that's not much. Link these extrusions you are using. I,m familiar with the galv dock parts but not the extrusions.
Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: June-07-2014 at 12:57am
8122pbrainard wrote:
Chris, If your beach allows, they can be hooked to your quad for the in and out.
My neighbor had 48 feet of steel roll in. He would chain it to the plow mount on his old pickup, raise the "plow" and drive it in or out. It maybe took took all of 2 minutes. He had a modified come-along that slid into the top of the dock post and hooked to the dock frame below to set the leg height. He never got wet.
------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: June-07-2014 at 1:33am
I used the 1.25 pipe and depending on the depth they are ok... if they get longer than 6 ft you might be more wobbly than usual. I paid 223$ with tax for 7 10 footers at the local HEP. So in the same ball park - 3.50 a foot cut to your desired length with no scrap would be ok by me, will be closer to 5 after I cut off the scrap. 200lbs is heavy. I would consider making the deck removeable. I just have to build another 30 ft of removable decking tomorrow and I will have built or refurbished and installed 23 sections of dock this year. It's not that much fun building them after 4 or 5. I am ready to lie down on one and sleep a couple days.
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: June-07-2014 at 9:43am
I had posted earlier last month about building a floating dock. We ended up using our old aluminum poles and having some more welded, but I believe they were 1.75". We did 2 for every 8' length. I also bought some Taylor Made http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4594&familyName=Taylor+Made+Commercial+Grade+Double+Molded+P-Shape" rel="nofollow - P-channel dock bumper that we're installing this weekend.
If you need that P-channel, Jamestown Distributors gave me the best deal with shipping. Shipping at the other places kills the better deals. And, Jamestown will price match.
------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: June-09-2014 at 6:23pm
Progress report, framed up the 10 sections this weekend, the dock hardware should be here this week and which/where I get the posts is TBD.
In an effort to trim some lbs built the first one using 2x6 decking boards in lieu of 2x6 dimensional, which are 1/4" thinner and also have the nice rolled edges like the 5/4 decking. We tested with 3 of us standing and walking on a completed spanned section and it felt fine so all the rest were built the same way. Not sure the exact finished weight but I can carry 1 by myself and with 1 guy on each end it's quite reasonable.
Hardware is coming from http://www.dhdocks.com/lakesideliving/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=60" rel="nofollow - DH Docks , using corner clips throughout which are about 5x5 each face and should add a bit more rigidity once all bolted up.
Sections all look great, running the deck boards the long way feel great to walk on but will make it important the docks go in as a nice straight line.
Now that summer break has begun, going to try and get my daughter to lightly sand and stain the cedar deck boards this week, anybody have a suggestion on a translucent exterior stain??
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: June-09-2014 at 6:59pm
quinner wrote:
anybody have a suggestion on a translucent exterior stain??
You should have a couple cases already laying around, right? Hello cost synergy.
------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: June-09-2014 at 7:05pm
JoeinNY wrote:
I used the 1.25 pipe and depending on the depth they are ok... if they get longer than 6 ft you might be more wobbly than usual. I paid 223$ with tax for 7 10 footers at the local HEP. So in the same ball park - 3.50 a foot cut to your desired length with no scrap would be ok by me, will be closer to 5 after I cut off the scrap. 200lbs is heavy. I would consider making the deck removeable. I just have to build another 30 ft of removable decking tomorrow and I will have built or refurbished and installed 23 sections of dock this year. It's not that much fun building them after 4 or 5. I am ready to lie down on one and sleep a couple days.
I used rigid galvanized electrical conduit. Very stout and IIRC 10.00 per stick at 10ft from Menards, price seems to have doubled since 2010 I guess, or maybe it was on sale at the time.
------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: June-23-2014 at 11:33am
Speaking of docks, I did a minor upgrade this weekend. New top.
I could have sworn I just did this a year ago....Oh yeah, that's because I just did do this a year ago. Had I known I would be moving within the year, I probably wouldnt have gone through the fuss.
Last year's project included lowering the dock about 18 inches, which I didnt have to do on this one. It's a little higher than I like but not worth the effort of lowering.
This was phase one of the project. Phase two, going out another 5 to 10 feet will occur as soon as I get permit in place and materials.
------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: June-23-2014 at 11:40am
Wrapped up the Dock Project this weekend, pics coming soon
Posted By: MustangMadness
Date Posted: June-24-2014 at 6:53pm
What an advantage you guys who live in non climates have when it come to docks.
------------- I like a 6' beam on a small lake... My Muscleboat 1975 Mustang 225 307RH
Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: June-24-2014 at 7:53pm
Certainly some perks to being located where the water does not freeze. Been there done that no need to repeat.
Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: June-27-2014 at 8:21am
Joe, Invite is open. Might try to put together something in October at the Lake but don't let that stop a visit anytime. Like that sandy bottom in your pic's
------------- '05 206 Limited '88 BFN
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-27-2014 at 10:22am
Beautiful dock, Greg. I find it interesting how in Maine, the state won't let you make any improvements within 100' of the lake, other than temporary docks, but in NC you can build nice boat houses and docks like yours and at White Lake.
Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: June-27-2014 at 8:16pm
Thanks Bruce- Well the restrictions are different the quirkiness is much the same. It kind of depends on who is the Lake Steward (Duke Power - Alcoa etc, each have thier own regulations (many of which make little sense). Here (Badin Lake - Alcoa) you can no longer attach to the "river bottom" more than ~10' from shore - everything has to float - I did not qualify as a grandfathered lot. Also, almost all the lots on the lake you can not cut trees within 10' above full pond elevation. Here I lucked out and can clear to the waters edge.
------------- '05 206 Limited '88 BFN
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-27-2014 at 8:34pm
Riley wrote:
I find it interesting how in Maine, the state won't let you make any improvements within 100' of the lake, other than temporary docks, but in NC you can build nice boat houses and docks like yours and at White Lake.
Bruce, Wisconsin is the same way. I only have a 8'by 16' "L" section at the end of my dock and it's over the allowed sq. ft.!! You have to jump through lots of hoops to install a permanent piling pier!!
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-27-2014 at 10:50pm
We sit and complain about Illinois but there does not seem to be many restrictions
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-27-2014 at 11:41pm
I had some minor problems this year with my lift. When it was built 16 years ago it was primarily for the Shamrock. The cross pipes for the lifting cables needed to be 13 feet across so they took a 10 and welded 3 more feet on. I hang this new boat on and ended up snapping the bad weld which happened to be right in the cable lift area. I was changing the steering cable when it happened. No one was hurt except the boat.I then had to finish installing the cable so I could drive the boat to the ramp to get it out.In my haste because of approaching darkness I put the helm together wrong so it steered backwards! Had a hard time finding 21ft pipe so that I could cut it down instead of welding it but finally did. Then got to thinking I don't like the butt welds the same guy did on the bearing supports so I cut some angle and had a welder come out and redo those too. In the meantime I'm trying to get the guy who's repairing Quinners gel to just look at mine,he says fine bring it over but call first,I call twice and get his help who proceed to tell me their too busy. Decided to do it myself with Spectrum, they tell me they get the color right from the company who supplies Correct Craft so we will see how it turns out,I can always take it in.I'm in the process now of building a step so we can get in the boat easier when it's on the lift and I'll be done.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: July-18-2014 at 3:04pm
Better late then never, pics as promised:
Took a while to find decent stock at Menards
A little help from My Brother
The stack started to build
Once the boxes were complete moved on to mounting all the hardware. As Joel mentioned the D&H components were great and included everything, the only issue I had was the carriage bolts supplied were about 1" short on the end boards where I had 2x4 ledger board along the 2x6, worked fine everywhere else.
Then it was time to cut the leg posts, purchased (5) 21' sticks of 1.25" ID schedule 40 galvanized pipe from Fergusons (thanks Bret Hectus for the great pricing) and my plumber buddy helped me cut them all down with his 300 machine. Including cutting the threads off each end had about 30 cuts to make.
Then it was just a matter of putting them in, definitely a 2 man job to carry, heavy but not a backbreaker.
Really happy how everything turned out, very sturdy and nice to walk on with the deck boards running along each section instead of across them. The only thing I would have considered doing different is tightening up the gap between the deck boards, 1/2" is ok but 1/8" or 1/4" may have been better.
Added some budget solar lights at most posts, looks great at night but people have a tendency to grab them and of course the plastic fixtures break pretty easily.
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: July-18-2014 at 3:18pm
Looks great Chris, and tell your brother I've always been a fan of his music. Man out of time is probably my favorite, but Alison is great too.
------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-18-2014 at 3:49pm
Wondering if the sections will sag in the middle.
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Posted By: PLBC
Date Posted: July-20-2014 at 1:17am