351 PCM Distributor #1 Location 1987
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=32891
Printed Date: October-08-2024 at 3:26pm
Topic: 351 PCM Distributor #1 Location 1987
Posted By: Old School Skier
Subject: 351 PCM Distributor #1 Location 1987
Date Posted: February-22-2014 at 5:56pm
| In need of position #1 wire on distributor.. My 1987 manual is confusing, as I have the older engine (1986?).. help! My 1987 Nautique, Ford 351W PCM seems to be a split year on the motor. I have the older version, whereby my Prestolite distributor cap is the one with clips and screws to hold it. The newer 1987 (or real 87) has screws only. My firing order on the engine tag is 1-8-4-5-6-2-7-3. I assume #1 cylinder is the front right (the closest to the driver seat)? Where is #1 wire located on the distributor cap? |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-22-2014 at 6:24pm
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Kit, Welcome to CCfan, How about some pictures? We love them! You can NOT determine the position of the #1 wire on the distributor from a diagram. Bring the #1 piston up to TDC on the compression stroke, look at the position of the rotor and it will point to the approximate position of the wire in the cap. Google is your friend as there are plenty of video tutorials. Do you have a friend who understands engine timing? If not, it may be time to get a mechanic??  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: February-22-2014 at 9:00pm
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Check out the reference section here for a good description. Are you trying to install the distributor or replacing the cap? Either way the crank shaft needs to be set at top dead center. Look at the timing mark and the pointer on the front of the engine and rotate the crank until the pointer lines up. If the distributor was never removed before the rotor will point about 1 o'clock looking aft at the engine. If it points to 7 o'clock rotate the crank 1 revolution and it should be at 1 o'clock "ish" If the distributor has been removed you must set the #1 cylinder to top dead center on the COMPRESSION stoke. If installing the distributor. DO NOT force it down to the block. Move the oil pump shaft a little at a time (a few degrees) then try it again Tape a 5/16 socket to an extension to reach down to the hex oil pump shaft. This is all off the top of my head so if I'm wrong I'm about to get beat up! ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: Old School Skier
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 7:17pm
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Thanks! I'll work the TDC method next weekend when I can get to the boat. Was hoping to get some quick answers prior too. Waterdog, I changed the dist cap only and was a knucklehead not to take note of #1 position. The diagram in the PCM manual shows it at 11 o'clock looking aft, but Poohpa says we can't trust the diagram. Yours being at 1 o'clock would be puzzling if on the same motor? |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 7:52pm
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I just looked at the 302/351 manual it shows 11 o'clock. Rotate the crank until the tdc mark is zeroed out AND the rotor points to that position and wire the cap. Next time change it out one plug wire at a time, you'll get it. It's not hard just step by step. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: Old School Skier
Date Posted: March-15-2014 at 12:41am
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Mission complete! Just needed to follow the advice to not use the diagram in the book, as #1 on the distributor can be anywhere. Was easy to find TDC on the compression stroke to establish #1. She is purring like a kitten. Thanks Poobah & Waterdog!!! Old School Skier |
Posted By: river ratt
Date Posted: March-15-2014 at 10:41pm
since were talking 87 ford distributer, i replaced my points condenser and cap last season, and i dont remember doing anything about tdc. i just made sure the cam was at the elongated place opening the gap before i started the job then i marked all the wires and put them back on the cap the same as the old one after gapping, did i do somthing wrong ???? it runs the same, this year im going with a breakerless from pentronix anything special i need to do for that change??? 87 sn screw dwn no clip  ------------- dont slip on the glass |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-15-2014 at 11:15pm
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Only to keep the number for Sea Tow handy,there are better alternatives. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: river ratt
Date Posted: March-15-2014 at 11:44pm
all ears gary  ------------- dont slip on the glass |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-16-2014 at 11:56am
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Pertronix has a bad reputation for reliability, so buyer beware on that. Regardless of which system you install,a good habit to have is to have ignition off whenever engine isn't running - this helps keep ignition electronics cool. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-16-2014 at 12:27pm
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You always need to check/set the timing after messing with your points or ignition module. Agreed on the pertronix, I'd stick with points. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-16-2014 at 12:54pm
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Andrew, Why do you want to get rid of the point set??? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: river ratt
Date Posted: March-16-2014 at 10:14pm
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guess i figure it would help performance , instead of doing my points every other year, my buddy uses one in his 79 and its been in there for 10+ years. i do remember retiming and replacing a small pump on the carb (( power valve)? after gappinig that and the points also re adjusting the mixture screws ,all done per instruction manual. i was chasing a hole shot issue. i do however think fuel played a part so i run a half can of seafoam every other fill. what other alternatives are out there besides pertronix? ------------- dont slip on the glass |