Cleaning Wiring Harness Connections
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=32894
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 6:25pm
Topic: Cleaning Wiring Harness Connections
Posted By: td_in_nc
Subject: Cleaning Wiring Harness Connections
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 9:59am
I am sure this has been covered somewhere else, but I cannot find it. I am chasing an electrical issue with my gauges and I want to clean all connections. I am looking for suggestions on how to clean the harness connections (male and female) as I am concerned about bending the pins or making it worse. Does anyone have a suggestion? Thanks Tom
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Replies:
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 10:24am
what's the issue you're chasing?
------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 10:26am
Tom, You are on the correct track with finding voltage drops. What is the voltage drop from the engine up to the dash?
Typically I will use some Scotchbrite on both the male and females. Getting into the females require small pieces rolled up tight. Don't over do it to the point of removing the tin plating on the pins and sockets. Use dielectric grease when assembling and check the voltage drop again.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 10:37am
I am having issues with several of the gauges (volt, temp, oil) not working and the gas gauge pegs and vibrates. I was messing around with some the connections and go the gas gauge to read correct one time, then lost it. It is tough chasing this without an observer. I have only started digging into it as it has been cold and wet here. The module on these boats (2000 Supra Launch) are notorious for going bad because the speedo tubes connect to them. They have a trouble shooting guide and I have only started doing that so I did not check the voltage drop yet. Based on what I have read and found so for I think it is a bad connection somewhere (they had issues with harness as well) I just need some time to chase it down. Since I am taking things apart I want to clean and I like the suggestion of using dielectric grease. The pins are very fine so I am concerned using scotchbright. Was reading up on other sites and there is all kinds of suggestions - many not so good. The one hotrod site suggested Sprayon EL749.
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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 11:20am
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.188/.f" rel="nofollow - Deoxit
------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin
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Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 12:11pm
Thanks guys! Looks like the sell Deoxit at Radio Shack..
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 1:54pm
8122pbrainard wrote:
Tom, What is the voltage drop from the engine up to the dash? |
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 2:13pm
I am not sure at this point and it may be a little while before I can check. Dumb question of the day.... How do I check the voltage drop from the engine to the dash? I did check the Volts in and out of the Module and it was 12.
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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 3:38pm
Put negative lead of voltmeter on engine ground. Check voltage at alternator output terminal with positive lead (engine running). Then check voltage at the dash terminal you are suspicious of. The difference is the drop. I recommend you also check voltage at input of ignition system (usually ballast resistor if you have one) as that checks the whole loop.
------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 6:03pm
SNobsessed wrote:
I recommend you also check voltage at input of ignition system (usually ballast resistor if you have one) as that checks the whole loop. | As Chris states, this is important since it will check any problems with the wiring/ignition (key) switch too.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: oldcuda
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 6:33pm
Go through this all the time with my freightliner I bought a bag of mini bottle brushes clip them so I can put them in my cordless drill.Spray contact cleaner in female side and scrub them out real quick.Spring time I go through as many plugs as I can to get the salt or whatever that toxic sticky stuff they are putting on roads these days .
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 7:09pm
oldcuda wrote:
whatever that toxic sticky stuff they are putting on roads these days . | Wisconsin, (the cheese head state) has been spraying left over salt brine from cheese processing on their roads!
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 7:14pm
oldcuda wrote:
I bought a bag of mini bottle brushes clip them so I can put them in my cordless drill. | Why go through the trouble? http://www.mcmaster.com/#power-brushes/=qtngrn" rel="nofollow - McMaster has them down to .024 diameter Even Dremel markets small diameters.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: oldcuda
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 9:00pm
When I am at Harbor Frieght buying my quality tools it's no trouble to grab an extra pkg.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 9:11pm
oldcuda wrote:
Harbor Frieght buying quality tools |
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: February-23-2014 at 9:17pm
8122pbrainard wrote:
oldcuda wrote:
whatever that toxic sticky stuff they are putting on roads these days . | Wisconsin, (the cheese head state) has been spraying left over salt brine from cheese processing on their roads! |
That is why I life in NC is good! When I work on my cars I do not need a gallon of liquid wrench and a cutting torch. When I was young in NW PA they use to dump the brine on dirt road from the oil wells to "keep the dust down"
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Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: March-15-2014 at 10:36pm
8122pbrainard wrote:
SNobsessed wrote:
I recommend you also check voltage at input of ignition system (usually ballast resistor if you have one) as that checks the whole loop. | As Chris states, this is important since it will check any problems with the wiring/ignition (key) switch too. |
I had a little time today and checked the voltage at the alternator which 13.9. I checked the voltage at the ignition switch and it was 13.8. I also checked the voltage entering and leaving the gauge control unit which is 12 volts which is what it is suppose to be.
After troubleshooting and following the instructions from medallion (the gauge manufacture) it indicates the wiring harness is bad. So now I have to figure out where the bad connection is. I am trying figure out how to know what to check as I am following the wires.
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