older PCM 351 pulleys
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=32971
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 6:52pm
Topic: older PCM 351 pulleys
Posted By: ChowHound
Subject: older PCM 351 pulleys
Date Posted: March-06-2014 at 4:59pm
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Mine are pretty scaled up and are chewing up the belts. I was looking to replace the crankshaft and engine circ pump pulleys. Apparently, these things are hard to come by. SkiDim only had an alum. replacement for the crank....no circ pump pulley available. Any tips on where to find a couple steel replacements? thanks!! -Chow |
Replies:
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-06-2014 at 5:56pm
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The RWP pulley was replaced with a press on unit which is still available and in my hand. The crank pulley is still available per PCM and I can order it for you. Retail costs: Crank Pulley=$69.83 RWP Pulley=$99.93 ------------- |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: March-06-2014 at 8:16pm
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Zack, Has anyone converted V pullies to serpentine. I've been holding on to a set off a truck take out engine. Maybe make a bushing to adapt the power steering pulley to the RWP? My silver would look sooooo cool with a stainless wire cage around the serpentine pullies! ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: March-06-2014 at 9:17pm
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The inside faces of the pulleys can be cleaned up with a section of belt wrapped with sandpaper/emery cloth. Good paper will take light oil and improve the results. The RWP pulley seems to be unique to CC, or at least on mine. Otherwise I would have a set from the speed shop or swap meet. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-06-2014 at 9:22pm
Bill, Greg is correct. Unless a sheave has been exposed to the weather for years, I've never seen one that couldn't be cleaned up. Chuck them up in the lathe and give it a try. Clean them up in both directions. When was the last time you checked the alignment? That is the #1 cause of belts getting chewed up. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
BuffaloBFN wrote:Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: March-06-2014 at 9:27pm
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Pete you must have one heck of a garage. I would be curious to hear...how many people actually have a lathe? ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: March-06-2014 at 9:51pm
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I'm betting he has one for metal and one for wood. What size is the raw water pulley? I've seen some power steering pulleys that sure look close. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-06-2014 at 10:04pm
Only a wood lathe. The metal lathes I've used have always been at work. I've also relied on friends. To spin a sheave, even a wood lathe with a chuck will work. I've used mine when I didn't want to take the project to work or bother a friend. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: March-06-2014 at 10:58pm
I have one 3&4 jaw chucks, face plate ect.. it was my Dad's. Perfect for hobby stuff. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 12:10am
Some bonehead was polishing knobs.  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 10:16am
Not that I know of. PCM didn't even go serp until 04 after the Ford was out of production. I am sure you could get something to work if you put your mind to it but it would be completely custom. I know you could probably buy pulleys from a company like March racing. Or make friends with a buddy with a CNC and blocks of billet aluminum. ------------- |
Posted By: ChowHound
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 11:27am
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Thanks!! To be clear, I'm looking for the crank pulley and the 'engine waterpump' pulley, not the raw (Sherwood) water pump pulley. It's the replacement for this 'engine waterpump' pulley that appears to be non-existant. maybe I'll do all of them. - dunno. I'm on the fence about getting a new alternator anyway... PhatStat - thanks for the info!! You may be hearing from me. I'm considering cleaning them up. I like the vbelt wrapped in sandpaper idea. I'll have to poke my head in there and see how bad they really are - haven't looked at them since winterization. I'll also check the alignment as mentioned. The wear on the belt and pulleys appear pretty even from side to side but, it's worth a check. So...any leads on the 'engine waterpump' or Circulation pump pulley would be fan-tastic! -Chow |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 11:34am
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Do you have any rubber dust piles(small and sometimes tough to ID)? They shouldn't wear much when they are straight. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 11:42am
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I checked in my archives and found no (circulating) water pump pulleys. They are the defunct pieces. I missed the Circ part above ha. ------------- |
Posted By: ChowHound
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 2:03pm
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Yup - piles of rubber dust. Very easy to ID :) Hence the need to do 'something' to fix it. Considering the Circ pump pulley is an irreplaceable relic...looks like i'm trying to clean 'em up. Then again, maybe the alignment is whacked. I'm a bit surprised that there's no cross-match to an automotive part on that Circ pump. Thanks for the info guys! -Chow |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 2:20pm
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Get it done! I sand blasted everything I had when I picked mine up. They were all in great shape. The Chevy we build is a collaboration of pulleys alternators brackets and pumps. We sourced all that stuff through various Chevy performance outlets. We put together a very clean and simple accessory drive system that incorporates only one belt. Though it looks somewhat reminiscent to Indmar parts. ------------- |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 2:27pm
Pulleys being out of alignment is a fairly common occurance. Put a straightedge agroos the face or the back side of the crank pulley or the circlation pump pulley to the pulley of RWP or alt. and you'll see immediately how far off they are. Need to use a little boaters engineering to put washers or spacers in the mounting brackets to get everything lined up. You won't find an automotive cross-reference because the circulation pump is marine specific. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 2:32pm
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That water pump pulley has to be available. Did you try NAPA ? (mid 70s 351w) ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 2:48pm
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There should be no reason that you couldn't find some pulleys online at a place like Summit. Steel, billet aluminum, CNC. You make the choice. They have pulleys laid out by engine size, pulley diameter, mounting holes, short or long water pump housing (Chevy), number of belts or even overdrive/underdrive diameters. I did this with my rebuild but that was Chevy. I found the pulley diameters to be close but not exactly as OEM and I had to experiment with different length belts afterward but everything worked out fine. It was not as simple as just buying a kit and replacing them though. You'll never find an exact match of the OEM diameters if you're looking to go with a dressup aftermarket aluminum setup. How bad you want to do it vs. how much effort you want to expend to do it is up to you, but I'm positive it can be done. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 3:10pm
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What Eddie said. That's how we sourced everything for our Chevy. ------------- |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 3:14pm
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Mine is a different engine with similar issues. I should've mentioned that. The smart money will clean the arrestor and carb if so equipped. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: oldcuda
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 3:37pm
| I had no problem upgrading to all aluminum. but it was a Chevy.Would go to local speed shop with original pullies in hand sure they can match up something .The guy I go to just shakes his head and asks what kind of thing I am doing now that probably hasn't or shouldn't be tried .But always comes up with parts to make it work. |
Posted By: ChowHound
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 7:56pm
Smart money runs out quickly. :) Absolutely! I cleaned the arrestor twice in the two months of use she got last year. I can see a little buildup on the carb choke flap so, I'm sure some got ingested. -these are the reasons I want to get this done. I can swap belts and dust off the motor pretty quickly/painlessly. I don't like the ingestion. Alignment will be checked, and sandblasted they will be. Not to derail the thread but, I never had much luck rebuilding Holleys. Any fuel additives out there that could clear my arteries? - Tripple dose of SeaFoam and an Italian tune-up?  Thanks guys - very informative all around. -Chow |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 8:10pm
+1 with Eddie. I hope you never get something obscure . If you look hard enough their might be a part number stamped into the face of the hub,you might have to do some paint removing or sanding first. Or do some measurements of the offset and diameter and do some searching on some Ford forums,I doubt they were made special. The PCM 302 in my Shamrock has a double groove aluminium on it for some reason.------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 9:12pm
They aren't so plug-play. With what I know now, what I would look for is a few minutes on the site engine. There are several folks here who know what's up. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-07-2014 at 9:38pm
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Bill, Since the OEM is no longer available and if you absolutely feel the sheave can't be cleaned up and needs to be replaced, don't forget off the shelf V belt sheaves. I'd have to guess it's a standard A section belt but do check the top width. I doubt it's a deep V narrow wedge belt. Top of the line cast iron sheaves can be found at any power transmission distributor. Restating the potential problem as mentioned, check the ALIGNMENT!!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |