Distributor Stuck - Yuck
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33000
Printed Date: November-22-2024 at 2:43am
Topic: Distributor Stuck - Yuck
Posted By: chuckactor
Subject: Distributor Stuck - Yuck
Date Posted: March-10-2014 at 4:03pm
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I picked up an 86 2001 at the end of the summer. The boat was in decent shape and seemed pretty well maintained up till about 2011.The boat ran strong but has been down a bit on power. Of course the 5,000+ altitude here doesn't help. When going back through the service records, I found a receipt from 1999 that said "distributor stuck, couldn't adjust timing". Sure enough, the timing light revealed that I was off by 10 degrees. Needless to say, the base of the distributor was heavily corroded. I assumed the first time I put any force to it the housing of the distributor at the base would snap. I went out and purchased a new Mallory unit in anticipation. I soaked the distributor down with Kroil for about 2 weeks. Grabbed the strap wrench and "pop", the housing cracked right at the base. So I went medieval on it for about 3 hours. Using everything from giant pry bars, torches, dremels and drills. Somehow the aluminum casting had become one with the cast iron block. Of course even the hold down bolt rounded off and needed to be cut off. After fill the put with chunks of broken distributor and aluminum chips I gave up. I put the boat back in storage and let it sit for a month. With a 60deg day yesterday I went and got the boat and resumed my attack. I grabbed a right angle air grinder and cut the distributor shaft off just under the advance mechanism. This allowed me to get the rest of the body off and out of the way. http://s17.photobucket.com/user/chuckactor/media/Boat/1.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  After I had room, I whipped out a real big drill bit (almost 1/2") and took some big chunks out of the casting. Once I did this I could hit the bottom of the housing (what was left of it) with a big screwdriver and got it to finally move a little. After some persuading with my giant channel locks, it let go. http://s17.photobucket.com/user/chuckactor/media/Boat/2.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  I had to grind a little screwdriver into a file to chisel off the corroded aluminum from the block. http://s17.photobucket.com/user/chuckactor/media/Boat/3.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  Things were going so good I tackled the broken hold down bolt. After getting the threads soaked with Kroil for a month, it barely put up a fight. I drilled the bolt with a cobalt bit and tapped in a bolt extractor. For the first time in my life, the bolt screwed right out without breaking off the extractor in it. Now I just need to swap the gears on my Mallory distributor and perform a long awaited tune up. Chuck |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-10-2014 at 4:09pm
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Wow, what a nightmare! Job well done. No bits and pieces made it down into the engine? Dont toss the reverse rotation gear thats attached to the old shaft... it'd come in handy for somebody. Same goes for the points plate, etc in the old dizzy. |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: March-10-2014 at 4:16pm
LOL I'd love to see a time-lapse video of this. Nice work finally getting it out. ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
chuckactor wrote:Posted By: chuckactor
Date Posted: March-10-2014 at 4:57pm
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The only thing left from the original distributor is the gear. If anyone needs one, let me know. The rest was literally beat, cut or mutilated into tiny bits. I bought the Mallory one for the new distributor. Of course the two Mallory gears have different size roll pins. The reverse gear has a larger diameter pin and requires drilling the hole in the distributor shaft larger to install the new gear. I did get smart and waited to see the original gear before I modified my new distributor.... |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-10-2014 at 6:06pm
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Why not drill a properly sized hole in the gear to save modification of the new shaft? ------------- |
Posted By: chuckactor
Date Posted: March-10-2014 at 6:50pm
| The replacement gear is already drilled with the larger hole. Mallory said they had issues with the 1/8" pins shearing. They moved up to a larger pin and all the replacement gears are sized for the larger roll pin. Since my distributor came from eBay it's probably old stock. |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-10-2014 at 6:55pm
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Gotcha. I was just thinking if you mess up the gear that's a whole lot cheaper replacement than a Dizzy. I scored a NOS standard rotation 87- pertronix unit for my boat in the day and just swapped gears. ------------- |
Posted By: catamount
Date Posted: May-01-2014 at 6:32pm
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The same thing happened to me on my 1987 351. I tried everything from air hammers...  To this chain wrench.  I also tried heating, freeze sprays, Kroil. The only thing that worked was making a slide hammer attachment with jaws to yank it out. I was thrilled when it finally came out. It took weeks.   And a fresh one went in.  ------------- 1987 MC ProStar 190 |
Posted By: MustangMadness
Date Posted: May-01-2014 at 8:32pm
| I guess cast iron and cast aluminum don't have a loving companionship. My 75 307 Mustang distributor came out without effort. Maybe being up front near the wet stuff (pump, thermo.) makes a difference.. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-01-2014 at 9:43pm
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Since I installed EI 5 years ago, I haven't moved my dizzy. I think I'll loosen it up just to avoid this calamity. Thanks for posting, it wasn't on my radar at all. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: May-01-2014 at 10:41pm
Now that's an accomplishment.  Hope I remember the slide hammer trick. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: May-02-2014 at 11:38am
Exactly my thoughts. I guess I have to question how long it's been since a tune up was done on either of these engines? It must've been an awful long time for the dizzy to freeze up that. And what extraneous conditions may have been a contributing factor in this? Water splashed up on the dizzy? Salt exposure? Electrolysis? Maybe it's some other phenomena about having the dizzy being in front of the engine? You Ford guys always seem to have some kind of weird problem like this. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-02-2014 at 12:47pm
That's because they keep running and running you never have to mess with them. Pretty soon 20 years have slipped by. Good example is Jbears motor, 34 ish old only has had heads replaced. Now his mechanic,who has a newer Chevy has had to bore the block,replace pistons,cam,why I'll even guess the crank isn't original  that's my theory anyway and I'm stickin to it------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: oldcuda
Date Posted: May-02-2014 at 1:26pm
| I have a 29 yr old Chevy that's never been apart purrs like a kitten.Maint..Maint.... |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: May-02-2014 at 5:24pm
 That's too funny. You are absolutely correct sir. The crank is not original but it does run a lot better now then it ever did before, and it wasn't exactly a pooch in it's factory form. FYI, I still do have the original crank. It's in prefect shape and I plan to use it for a new tow vehicle if the planets ever align. A marine forged crank would be the perfect base for a really stout 355ci tow motor. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: May-19-2016 at 10:16pm
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did you have to use a lot of force using your slide hammer? I would be worried it would bust off the top like the previous post of pictures had issues with. I have not given or looked at my distributor just yet but I do know it wont turn to advance. I am dreading this but I may buy a slide hammer if this really did work for you. ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: catamount
Date Posted: May-21-2016 at 11:52pm
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I'm the guy who used the slide hammer. It worked really great. I'd recommend combining it with the chain wrench. I had it spinning about 1mm in either direction with the chain wrench before attempting the slide hammer. The slide hammer DID work really well though. I'd spray down the base with penetrating oil for days leading up to it. ------------- 1987 MC ProStar 190 |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: May-23-2016 at 11:26am
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Wow what a mess. This is one reason i keep my engines clean and painted. Compressed air to blow it dry. Some WD once in a while in areas like this will help prevent this problem. I would hone the distributor hole. Stuff a rag down it with atf on it to catch the junk. Rinse it all down with diesel fuel and drain out the pan. |
Posted By: beretta5spd
Date Posted: May-29-2016 at 6:41pm
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Hey guys, I realize this is an old thread but I thought I'd add to it instead of starting a new one. Here's what the inside of my 86 PCM 351 distributor looks like. As you can imagine the boat runs terribly.  Where do you recommend buying a new Dizzy and what was the part number you used? Man I'm not looking forward to getting a rusted unit out of the block. Thanks for all the info in this thread though. Dwight ------------- 1996,1997 Sport Nautique 1986,1992 Ski Nautique - Sold 1995 Sport Nautique - Current |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: May-29-2016 at 8:15pm
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If you can afford the $385 price tag, the DUI marine distributor is the ticket: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-m35820bl" rel="nofollow - Link I have one in my SN. Love it. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: beretta5spd
Date Posted: May-29-2016 at 8:57pm
That looks awesome... does it come with the correct gearing for the 86 engine? Also, I'm hoping for a cheaper option. ------------- 1996,1997 Sport Nautique 1986,1992 Ski Nautique - Sold 1995 Sport Nautique - Current |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: May-29-2016 at 9:15pm
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Hi, I am going to be tackling this project maybe next weekend. I ordered my distributor from www.skidim.com last week for my 1985 351w motor. It wasn't cheap but I guess to be on the safe side I would rather be safe than sorry. Apparently this is the exact fit match up for these boats. The link is below to the one I purchased. I spoke to skidim on the phone just to verify it would all just drop in and be exact for a left handed turning engine and he said it would be the same as the original Prestolite distributor, I guess Mallory just bought prestolite. He also informed me for some reason the distributors are going to be going up in price soon. http://www.skidim.com/MALLORY-SIERRA-58-BREAKERLESS-LH-351/productinfo/RA107025A/" rel="nofollow - 351 Distributor ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: beretta5spd
Date Posted: May-29-2016 at 9:24pm
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Those look like fantastic distributors but I find it hard to justify $600 Canadian dollars after exchange rate and shipping for a distributor. I'm hoping someone may have used one of these: http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=12467" rel="nofollow - click me And swapped the gear from their old distributor. That would come to around $275 Canadian dollars after exchange and shipping which would be a lot easier to justify on a $3000 boat. ------------- 1996,1997 Sport Nautique 1986,1992 Ski Nautique - Sold 1995 Sport Nautique - Current |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-29-2016 at 9:37pm
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Well why not go http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Prestolite-7020S-Ford-351W-Point-Type-Marine-Distributor-E5JL-12100-CA-/262446670442?hash=item3d1b0a626a:g:0vYAAOSwL7VWkVRV&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow - this route and reuse your old gear? Can't get any cheaper than that. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: May-29-2016 at 9:37pm
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Ill tell you what, if my old one comes out in one piece you can have it. I just had new advance springs, new cap and rotor installed last summer. Otherwise its going in the trash if no takers. There is nothing wrong with mine other than the fact its rusted into the block and I couldn't advance it for my timing. All winter my boat has been in storage and had the distributor in the block soaking in some PB Blaster. So im hoping it will beak free when I attempt to remove it next weekend. ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: beretta5spd
Date Posted: May-29-2016 at 9:49pm
that sounds fantastic. please keep me posted ------------- 1996,1997 Sport Nautique 1986,1992 Ski Nautique - Sold 1995 Sport Nautique - Current |
Posted By: beretta5spd
Date Posted: May-29-2016 at 9:50pm
thank you Gary that's a great idea if h20extreme's offer doesn't work out ------------- 1996,1997 Sport Nautique 1986,1992 Ski Nautique - Sold 1995 Sport Nautique - Current |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-29-2016 at 10:05pm
An 85 should be a right hand turning engine,has yours been replaced with a automotive engine? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: May-29-2016 at 10:57pm
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No its stock, I verified the rotation, I thought it was right handed based on how the front of the engine pullys turned. But I verified that its left handed of course with several mechanics and when I ordered the distributor that indeed if my pullyes are turning right handed if I am standing in front of the engine that I would have a left handed turning engine. ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-29-2016 at 11:21pm
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Well as long as you did your homework Keep us in the loop on how the install goes. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: May-30-2016 at 12:21am
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I'm no CC historian by any means and I'm sure Tim will correct me if I'm wrong... but I don't think they used "lefties" in '86. I would almost bet the house its a right hand'er if it is indeed stock. |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: May-30-2016 at 9:20am
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My boat is an 85. I have had confusion on this topic talking with several marine and auto mechanics before purchasing my distributor. If standing in front of my engine at the ski pole my crank is turning clockwise or right rotation, which means if I would be standing behind the engine the flywheel is turning to left or counter clockwise (standard rotation). Engine rotation is determined by the direction of the flywheel. I cannot speak for an 86 rotation but based on two different mechanics and two different online ordering sites they all said I def have a left handed rotation. Even after telling them the year and make of my boat they all said the same. So i am pretty confident. ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2016 at 9:42am
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Jeremy, Adding the "clockwise" "counterclockwise" terms helps. You have a standard rotation "lefty" engine. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: May-30-2016 at 10:14am
'85 or '86 As Pete said if it is spinning the direction you say it is a lefty. And I would have to bet it is not the original engine. Is there an engine ID/firing order placard on the motor ( usually located around the left rear intake or head.) Do you have a 1:1 transmission? (Just wondering about lean with a 1:1 and a lefty engine) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2016 at 10:52am
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Jeremy, A thought just came to mind on the rotation! Is the engine running? I ask since we have had several come to the site with problems starting their engines after they have gone to some place like Autozone and purchased the wrong rotation starter!!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: May-30-2016 at 11:37am
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Yes my boat starts fine, I have never touched the starter. I know the previous owner said he did replace it once. I have had this boat for 10 years and never had an issue. ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 1:07am
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OK so you guys have me questioning myself. I've not been to my boat just yet this season but I was looking at some random pictures of my boat and noticed my boat prop. In the picture below it appears my prop based on the pitch angle would spin clockwise or right... but then click the engine picture and looking at the water pump pulley I have a blue arrow painted on it that shows the direction the front of the engine would turn. I have been told not to never assume the prop rotation as the engine rotation due to the gearing in the transmission. My transmission is a 1:1 borg warner velvet drive. Thoughts? http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/6934/20150726_175750295_iOS_2.jpg" rel="nofollow - Engine http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/6934/boat-126_3.jpg" rel="nofollow - Prop ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 1:41am
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A 1:1 Borg Warner cannot change direction from input to output,ie if it turns left going in it will turn left out and vice versa. So in your case you have a prop that gets forward thrust by turning right. So your input to the trans has to be right hand turning engine. We know that for sure because you have used the boat in the past with this engine trans and prop. If you look at your prop it will most likely have a RH stamped into it too. Now in 89 I think they started using left handed engines when PCM came out with their own transmissions. The new trans included a angled output shaft which let the engine sit more level but it also reversed output internally. A standard lefty engine,same as an automotive engine now turned the prop to the right. You engine is a right hand turning engine. The right hand rotation camshaft has a gear that changes the direction of the oil pump and distributor so that they turn the same as direction as a left handed engine and that is why you need a distributor that is for a right hand engine. The gears will not match up when you go to install and will not let you put it in. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 2:13am
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I agree Gary that if my engine is right turning and if my Borg Warner transmission doesn't change rotation at the output end, then how do you explain my engine rotating right or clockwise when viewing the engine from the front? If my engine was a right turning engine even at the prop end than standing in front of the engine my crankshaft pulley would be turning left but its not doing that they are turning right. Here is an interesting forum I have found. Sounds like this guy has the same issue I face. http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/inboards/velvet-drive-possible-dumb-question-32453.html" rel="nofollow - Link ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 4:35am
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Here is a picture of my tag on my engine... http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/6934/20150605_003705257_iOS.jpg" rel="nofollow - Engine Tag ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 6:50am
That firing order 18456273 is for a RR engine. Looking at the front of the engine, it will turn CCW. That in turn makes the prop turn CW when standing behind the boat looking forward. You will have to have a RR starter and a RR dist gear IF they indeed rebuilt is as a RR engine. That can be verified by checking the firing order as the engine is turned over by hand and watching the valves open and close. If the dist is out then you can also look at the gear on the cam. The dist gear should have teeth like this \\\\\\. If it fits then you have a RR (Reverse Rotation) engine ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 7:25am
Jeremy, That tag has some "R"'s in it!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 10:07am
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Hi Jeremy Gary and Duane gave you what you need to know unless you have a Borg Warner 1:1 "Magic Trans". Besides what they mentioned if you look at your engine picture and spend a little time looking at the plug wires on your distributor cap (knowing that your distributor rotor turns counterclockwise no matter which way the engine rotates) it's obvious that your firing order is for a RR engine. You don't need to know what plugs the wires go to in your picture only which side of the engine they go to. Look back at a thread titled "impeller change" from about a year ago where you forgot which way your water pump should be installed and if you can remember how you put it back in, that will help you too. KenO |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 11:57am
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Well thank you all for your input, I guess since I already have the new distributor for a left handed engine in a box ready to go I will have to get to my boat and really be 100% certain that my engine is turning left or right. It sucks that it is 4 hours away but at least I will have an answer this weekend of which way its really going. The previous owner or at least someone even etched with a sharp object into one of the pulleys the rotation that they are turning. Maybe my engine was rebuilt at one time I don't know for sure. Also I have read many other blogs on diff sites that the rotor rotation doesn't always tell the engine rotation.. As far as my water pump installation I know that is working correctly. picture of that is below of how I installed it. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/6934/20150726_160132216_iOS.jpg" rel="nofollow - Water Pump ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 12:16pm
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Here is a tip Jeremy- stay off those other sites your water pump mounting confirms it a righty,as does the trans and prop. Not many people are familiar with right hand engines but since Correct Craft used them for many years,many here are used to them. Post up a picture of your new distributor and it's gear please ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 12:56pm
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[QUOTE=H2oXtremes] Also I have read many other blogs on diff sites that the rotor rotation doesn't always tell the engine rotation../QUOTE] The rotor turns CCW in EITHER engine. That won't tell you anything. Stay off the other sites for Correct Craft info. As stated above & Post a pic of the distributor  ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 1:21pm
It'll tell him if his starter rotation is correct (if the rotor is spinning clockwise, he's cranking the engine backwards), but assuming the engine runs, you're right- rotor direction wont be enlightening (it's spinning ccw if the engine runs). If the engine runs, you'll new to confirm which way it spins. If it doesn't run, a picture of the distributor gear would tell the story. All signs point to it being a RH engine as would have been installed from the factory. |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 1:27pm
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I am trying to stay off the other sites, but this topic seems to one the worlds greatest wonders in the auto distributor world. after hours of googling I cannot believe there is no clear answer on engine rotation. Everyone has a diff view on this topic. Even if I knew my engine rotation it seems some order sites will show a right handed distributor in the photo with the same slant in gear as my new left handed distributor. My receipt from skidim shows its LH but on other sites the same distributor for a right hand rotation has the slant the same direction as a left and a right handed one costs 100.00 more. SMH So staying off other sites, I found a topic on this on this site about a 70's 302... people on here commenting that the distributors will still work if I just swapped out the gears. I am not sure if thats just for the 302 or will that work with the 351? Here are a few pictures of my current brand new (LH) distributor. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/6934/20160601_151005231_iOS.jpg" rel="nofollow - New Mallory http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/6934/20160601_151028441_iOS.jpg" rel="nofollow - New Mallory 2 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/6934/20160601_151339936_iOS.jpg" rel="nofollow - New Mallory 3 ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 1:50pm
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Auto and marine use different LH and RH conventions. Marine views from the rear and auto views from the front. Stop confusing yourself and stick with the info shared here. It will be correct. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 5:54pm
A gear swap will be all you need. You have to make sure it's a RR gear for a 351W Mallory distributor. (The 302 has a smaller diameter shaft and a gear with a smaller ID) It needs an inside diameter of .531 inches to fit the 351w Mallory distributor shaft You can go search around the internet or you could ask here and somebody would probably give you a Mallory part number like 9-26825. then you could verify that that's the right one Also your old Prestolite gear on your present distributor would work with a new hole drilled in the gear to position the gear at the right spot on the shaft on the new Mallory |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 6:59pm
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Gee guess I was right. I have the same distributor on my '85 all I did was swap the gear from my old distributor. As others stated don't listen to the other forums we will steer you in the right direction, there is more knowledge on this site than all the others put together. Also you may want to find a new mechanic if he told you it was a lefty. 
|
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 7:23pm
IMOH it would be best to return the brand new unit and pony up for the correct one. It will be a drop in then and won't mess up any warranty or return. Jeremy may not have the tools or know how to do it himself and if it needs to be taken in to be done,that's not free either. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 8:46pm
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Well I spoke to Vince at Skidim this morning and I ended up buying a new right handed distributor and will take both with me this weekend to my boat. I agree the extra hundred is worth the peace of mind of just having it done. So next challenge is well hoping the old one doesn't strong arm me to much in removing its rusted self out of the block. ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 9:14pm
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Take some Emory cloth and some O-ring lube with you. Once you get the old dizzy out clean the opening up with the Emory cloth and put some lube on the opening/intake and the O-ring on the distributor. Make sure to mark the orientation of the rotor on the old one and install the new one the same. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-01-2016 at 9:18pm
Your engine looks so clean in the water pump shot I don't think it will be that stuck. I think you'll be fine  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: June-03-2016 at 8:38pm
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Sooooo what happened? I was able to get my old distributor out today pretty easy honestly. and I installed my new Mallery distributor and wired it as the hand drawn discount inboard marine layout showed. I did have a couple questons so I called I Vince at Discount to verify I was doing this right. My original distributor only had two wires, One going to the negative coil post and the other to the positive coil post. The new one has one green that goes to the negative coil post the red would go to the resistor. the brown is the ground. I had Vince on the phone and he walked me thru the wiring. However I told him well currently I have two wires on one post of the resistor and the other post has no wires. Needless to say he had me wire it just as the diagram showed. I went to turn over my engine after all installed and wired... and turn the key and all I hear is one quick pop or click from the rear of the boat engine and now I have no power at all to my boat. It didnt turn over just pop or click... I noticed a breaker there at the end of the engine block but i tried to reset it but still nothing. Any ideas? ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: June-03-2016 at 11:40pm
|
The RED one goes to the 12 volt side of the resistor. That is the side that is switched from the ignition switch. The other side of the resistor goes to the + side of the coil. GREEN from dist to the - side of coil BROWN from dist to engine ground Red wire always gets 12 volts when switch is on Green wire from dist is the "trigger" to activate the coil Brown wire grounds to dist. coil is fed by resistor, usually about 8 volts ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: June-04-2016 at 12:47am
|
Yea I had it wired all correctly, it ended up being my negative battery terminal was loose. It started and worked just fine after that. I just thought it was odd when i turned my key I lost all power to my gauges and everything and it never came back. But they all worked fine until I turned the key. ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: June-04-2016 at 9:00pm
The first link is for standard rotation. If you need reverse rotation, then you need http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-m12720rrrd" rel="nofollow - this one JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: June-07-2016 at 12:58pm
|
Jonny, I'm looking at buying the DUI for my '72 SN. I'm coming up with PN M35820RRBL. What is the difference in this one and the one in your link (DUI-M12720RRRD) ? These reverse gears must be made to order, lead time is a month out for RH rotation. ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-07-2016 at 1:08pm
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12720 is for a Chevy M = marine 35820 = 351W 7,000 RPM RR = reverse rotation gear BL = blue color cap |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: June-07-2016 at 3:00pm
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Thanks HW ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: June-08-2016 at 5:24pm
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Thanks for the info. I recently purchased a '72 Promo that needs a little more work than the seller let on. This seems like a great site, I'm sure I'll be spending a lot of time on here researching. ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-08-2016 at 5:30pm
| Pictures please! |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 10:48am
 ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 10:53am
  ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 11:01am
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WOW these things are starting to become a dime a dozen they're starting to pop up everywhere. Nice looking ride. 
|
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 11:10am
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Very cool boat, hope to get me one at some point... definitely been worked on though. Maybe get a bit more info on that carb... not stock and the gas line to it is not up to marine spec so it may also not be a marine unit. What is wrong with your distributor now? The dui is a good unit but with a boat like that you might want to consider going more towards a stock look as you replace things I wouldn't get to anal about it but if you are buying parts you might as well go in the direction that gives the greatest payback. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:15pm
|
Tracy, Nice!! I agree with Joe. Do keep it as close to original as possible and do check the carb for it being a marine as well as the fuel line from the pump to the carb.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:22pm
| Recommended you change graphics from black to medium(gator) blue and make proper boat. |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:27pm
|
Thanks for the input, I'll have to check on the carb. Never really been an Edelbrock fan anyways. It has waht appears to be the original distributor in it. Points and condenser look new as well as the rotor and cap. The engine stalls and will not restart once it gets up to temperature. The coil is extremely hot to the touch. I don't believe it to be a fuel issue, I can see it pulsing in the filter while the engine is turning over. Choke is working properly too. ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:28pm
| Sure sounds like you have a wiring issue. Where's the ballast resistor? |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:31pm
|
I concur, appears what could be plugged vacuum ports, suggesting non-marine. The plastic, pressurized fuel filter also makes me twitch Otherwise, very nice ride ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:35pm
It's mounted on the rear of the engine. There's a plate with the resistor, voltage regulator, and solenoid. I can't stand working on a dirty engine, so my first thing was to pressure wash everything, strip it down to the block, sand blast everything and paint it. This is what I started with.  ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:39pm
| So is the resistor wired prior to feeding the coil? Either the coil is bad by itself or it's getting 12V when it shouldn't be (resistor bypassed). No reason for it to get hot. |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:49pm
|
It appears to be wired up per the schematic, 3 wires on one side and 1 on the other, colors also matching the schematic. I haven't checked voltage yet or resistance and thought about replacing the coil too. I just figured I might as well get everything clean looking before I get it running. I didn't want to get it running, then tear it apart for cleaning and painting. ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:52pm
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Also discovered one riser was completely shot and alternator was not charging ( brush holder is cracked). These should arrive in the mail today so I can get it back together this weekend and do some testing in the driveway this time instead of the lake. I hate asking people for a tow. ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:53pm
|
What schematic? A lot could have happened since 1972. Better make sure it's a 12V ignition feed, choke and exciter as those 3 wires on one side of the resistor. Then coil feed out the other end. Tim's diagram isn't entirely accurate since the choke and exciter don't always go directly on the resistor post. You could be just sharing the post for coil bypass instead of putting in a butt connector (swap eye from one side to the other). Check your coil, it's probably fried.  If you're just going to be using the boat to cruise around I wouldn't drop the money on a DUI. They sure are nice and easily reversible to "stock" at any time. |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 1:14pm
Plan is now to disconnect everything, do point to point checks on the wiring, check resistor, and probably just replace the coil. I could see a winding opening up as the coil gets got, right ?  ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 1:27pm
|
The DUI was really more of a reliability thing for me. I've been boating for a long time and have always taken pride in not being stranded on the water. This thing has left me out there twice now. It is pricey though. Not sure why the RH is $75 more than the LH though. ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 1:31pm
|
Good plan. Don't follow that firing order though! You should be looking for 1.5 ohm total resistance for points, any combination of ballast resistor and coil. |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 1:51pm
Gear cost Reuse your old gear. Both distributors turn the same direction. CCW looking down from top. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: June-09-2016 at 2:01pm
|
I had read that in another post about reusing the old gear. My only concern would be the shaft diameter. Are they the same ? ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: June-18-2016 at 1:38am
|
Sorry for the delay guys, had a dreadful work conference at Lake Lanier Resorts in GA. Kids had fun but would have been nice to bring the boat. Anyways, I had the chance to stop at Performance Distributors in Memphis during the drive and they said the gears would match up fine. I'm going to order the DUI tomorrow and also take 8122pbrainard's advice and replace the carb with a marine Holley.....it's a $ setback but should pay out in the long run. I'll keep all original parts for the future if needed. GottaSki had mentioned something about the downstream fuel filter that I had not thought of and does make sense. Problem is, upon inspection it was full of rust. I replaced both filters, before and after fuel pump, and will monitor until I think the tank is clean and then replace the downstream line without the filter. I really think this is a combination of spark and fuel, I'm a maintenance manager and hate throwing parts at stuff to fix it, but I'm also ready to have some reliable boating time. I'll let you know how it turns out next week. Also have some restoration ideas / questions I'd like to throw out there once I get the thing running reliably. Thanks for all the info and help. ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-18-2016 at 10:09am
| It is not appropriate to have a fuel filter after the pump. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-18-2016 at 10:50am
I notice you did mention getting rid of the filter on the high pressure side of the pump but I suggest doing that ASAP before you have a big problem. I'd hate to see that great looking boat go up in smoke! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: June-18-2016 at 3:57pm
|
I know, I'll do it. I just keep finding little things on here that are "half-ass" repairs. And that's being nice. I put two new batteries on it, wired them up in parallel and still occasionally the thing wouldn't start. It also has a new starter and I replaced all of the terminals. Anyways, I found the neutral switch had wood screws in the terminals,lol. This is what I'm dealing with. I'm just gonna go from top to bottom and replace anything that is questionable now. I'm sure I'll have more in it than I can get back, but at this point it's become personal. ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: June-18-2016 at 5:08pm
|
Changing the fluids today, parts should be in Tuesday. Pulled both heat exchangers, 1st was full of leaves. ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: July-11-2016 at 8:36pm
 Sorry guys, I work at a power plant and summer is busy time at work in the south. Anyways, finished was as seen. I had it out and ran like a scalded ape , until the oil cooler line broke....argh....I had it in my hand too to replace but NAPA was closed, cutting corners. Anyways, engine is out being rebuilt, not too much damage, caught it as soon as it started knocking. However, someone else on here was familiar with this boat and had concerns about the PO putting plywood down for the flooring. Since the engine was out, I pulled the carpet and plywood but it doesn't appear to be too bad, I'll post some pics. My question is,, if I CPES and L&L the floor for now, followed with some Bilgekote, What do I do about the gaps behind the engine and under the seat ? Nailers, with plywood doors and hinges ? ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: July-11-2016 at 8:40pm
 ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: July-11-2016 at 8:44pm
 ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: TracyB
Date Posted: July-11-2016 at 8:45pm
 ------------- Tracy B |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-30-2023 at 6:48pm
|
Thought I'd drag this old thread up from the dead with a little info on getting a stuck distributor out, with maybe no destruction involved........maybe. I got a call a couple of days ago from a friend with a gt40 who couldn't rotate or lift his distributor. He wanted get it out due to PIP issues. I asked him if he had a 1/1/4 inch combination wrench, he said "yea,do you want to borrow it or something" I said yep, I'll be over shortly and we'll get your distributor out while I'm there. So I showed up, "borrowed the wrench" and used it on the hex built into the distributor (probably built that way for situations like this) and got it rotating with some force involved, without busting anything and with some penetrating oil and continued rotation, it was moving pretty easily and it lifted out without much effort Here's a picture of the hex and a 1 1/4 inch wrench on it https://ibb.co/286QT0X" rel="nofollow">  There's a reasonable amount of working room and the leverage with the big wrench is good and you can use a hammer of your choice for some gentle luv taps if needed. We had a few taps involved. This wrench method also works on the original equipment Prestolite's on the earlier PCM engines, but you need a 1 5/16 wrench for it's hex Here's a picture of the Prestolite hex https://ibb.co/4KQ9RGY" rel="nofollow">  It's a fair amount stronger in the hex area than using strap wrenches, chain wrenches, hammers or other brutal methods on the distributor bowl, and you don't really destroy anything along the way, in case you're planning on reusing the distributor Some other distributors like a Mallory or a Pertronix don't have a hex DUI for Ford no hex, DUI for a Chevy has a hex The GM distributors on the fuel injected Chevy engines have a square section that you can use a wrench on, instead of a hex Maybe this'll save somebody some aggravation ........maybe it won't. |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: November-15-2023 at 8:17pm
|
Good tip, Ken. I didn't know about the 1 1/4 wrench trick. A stuck dizzy can really be a b!tch. ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: Jass
Date Posted: November-26-2023 at 6:34pm
| I have a '99 SN with a Ford PCM. The motor is really clean and I have no reason to touch the distributor as it runs like a top still. That said, is there some specific lubricant I should put where the distributor goes into the motor to preclude the housing from sticking to the block? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-27-2023 at 3:57pm
| A little of your favorite penetrating oil, Marvel Mystery oil etc around the base won't hurt anything and will probably soak into the gap where it fits into the engine, and help keep things loose when it's time to rotate or move the distributor. |