Poured foam yesterday
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3304
Printed Date: January-16-2025 at 8:04am
Topic: Poured foam yesterday
Posted By: kscarter
Subject: Poured foam yesterday
Date Posted: April-04-2006 at 2:25am
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I poured in new foam yesterday and now it's time to cut it down to the top of the stringers. I have tried several different types of saws but I'm having a problem keeping the blade level since it's not long enough to span the stringers and I can't find a longer blade (12"). Can anyone recommend a technique to level the foam? Also how important is it to fill any low spots I end up with from cutting too deep.
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Replies:
Posted By: 87sn2001
Date Posted: April-04-2006 at 3:06am
I just did the same foaming project yesterday..to level the foam I just cut the foam with a 12 inch blade as close to level as possible then used a 90 degree grinder with a 50 grit sanding disk on it..The foam sands down easy so go lite...I also used an electric planner, but that was not a necessity, the grinder works the best. Another trick that was helpfull (too late for you but someone else may find helpfull} is after pouring the mix I put coreplast (spelling?)plastic sheet down then sat onit and when the foam raised it would spreed out not up.. this kept the foam evan with the floor and there was little waist.
wear a mask
b
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Posted By: rmcdonald
Date Posted: April-04-2006 at 5:16am
Hi
I used a hand wood saw.
And sanded it flat.
I also fibre glassed over the top of it as well.
If you want a picture of the result email me at rob.mcdonald@comverse.com
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Posted By: David F
Date Posted: April-04-2006 at 1:11pm
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12" rasps also work well. A 7" grinder/sander will make incredibly quick work of the situation to get it close then long sanding block and/or the rasp to fine tune.
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Posted By: kscarter
Date Posted: April-04-2006 at 3:23pm
I was trying the board on top method with a thin plastic drop cloth between the foam and board but my kids must not have been standing on it all the way because it ended up higher than the stringers. I have only done one side so I might try to screw the board down after I pour the foam when I do the other side. I tried a hand saw but it seemed to bow in the middle when I was cutting which made a couple of low spots. I will try the grinder tonight. The top layer seems to be quite a bit harder than the middle. I tried a sander last night but it couldn't get past the top layer. Once I cut it off, the sander was able to make some progress. I might also try a belt sander with a course belt.
What a mess this makes.
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Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-04-2006 at 3:44pm
The board on top method is why you have a hard top layer, this stuff can expand with an amazing amount of force, easier and lighter to just pour it in with an open top and trim it off later.
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