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Lake cottage water pump

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Printed Date: January-22-2025 at 3:04am


Topic: Lake cottage water pump
Posted By: mann1ba
Subject: Lake cottage water pump
Date Posted: March-20-2014 at 9:57pm
The gentlemen and scholars of this forum seem to have intimate knowledge concerning everything involving H2O, so I thought I would come to you for advice on this matter as well as my boat questions. I am tiered of putting grass seed and fertilizer down every year with no results, mainly because we don't water and have high traffic. Our cabin sits between two other cabins that are both family and we get a lot of the cross traffic. I know nothing about water pumps and I would like to know what I need to be looking for on CL or new. I doubt that we will be putting in an irrigation system bec. that will just be something else to winterize, so we only need a pump that will run a sprinkler or two.

what are your thoughts?

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1986 2001



Replies:
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-21-2014 at 1:03am
I have done it many times. I have a set up like http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/pumps-well-tanks/pumps/3-4-hp-pump-tank-system-pre-assembled-and-ready-to-install/p-136161-c-8673.htm" rel="nofollow - this . I end up usually using a old house pump and a small tank down at the river to pump water to do the yard.The last time I needed a pump I replaced the house one with a new one and used the old house one which was alot of plumming to do. I have 1" plastic sch 40 pipe on my pier with a foot valve about 2' down in the water. Once that pipe hits shore it connects to 1" black poly pipe about 10' to the pump then 1" black pipe to several faucets in the yard.I have plastic unions on the pump and the foot valve section. I also have a valve at the T section of the foot valve. I connect up the pump and foot valve section in the spring,open the valve in the foot valve section,connect a hose from the house to the faucet in the yard and turn on the house water.By the time I get over to the valve,water from the house is flowing good.I close the valve and now the system is primed and up to pressure. I disconnect the valve to valve hose and go turn on the pump and it's ready to go,I don't have to remove a plug on the pump and try to pour water into it to prime. In the fall I remove the footvalve section and apply air pressure at the farthest faucet blowing out all the water from the system. Then I remove the pump and add anti freeze to help protect the pipes. I used one of those fake plastic rocks to cover the pump so it keeps it out the weather like http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/landscaping-materials/accessories/large-plastic-rock/p-1729805-c-5782.htm" rel="nofollow - this

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-21-2014 at 9:57pm
Brian,
The pressure tank (with pressure switch) Gary mentioned really isn't needed as long as you can manually turn on the pump and use the water when the pump is running. I too have set up several lake pumps and yes used a regular (a couple were old) shallow well pumps. The foot vale is important to keep the prime to the pump. Place the pump as close to the lake as possible. Besides the foot valve, a strainer screen is important as well to keep debris from entering. I make my own with stainless perforated metal. Make sure you have a dedicated electrical circuit to the pump and it has the amp capacity. Voltage drop MUST be factored in from your house circuit breaker panel to the pump. DO NOT under size the wire and follow all electrical codes for the wiring. Wiring the pump at 240 volts is always best. (less voltage drop) The 1" tubing that Gary mentioned to me is undersized but is determined by the GPM you plan on pumping.

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54 Atom

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: corinaray
Date Posted: March-26-2014 at 12:44am
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