Hull Drain Plug
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33315
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 7:31pm
Topic: Hull Drain Plug
Posted By: harddock
Subject: Hull Drain Plug
Date Posted: April-11-2014 at 2:30pm
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At the end of last season my hull drain plug was frozen and a real pain to remove. I have just bought a replacement that came with the plug and the flange. Because of the taper the flange appears to need be installed from the bottom (outside the hull). The boat is in storage and I can't get at it to see how the old one is to be removed. Do I remove screws and it will just come out? What should I put around the flange when installing the new one? Silicone? Ideally it would be nice if I could just screw in the new drain plug, but life is never that easy. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4487" rel="nofollow - 1998 Ski Nautique |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-11-2014 at 5:37pm
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Kevin, can you better explain what is damaged and driving you to replace parts? If the plug is the only thing damaged, just replace that. If its the port, then thats a bit trickier. Can the threads be cleaned up rather than replace it? The port is in fact installed from the bottom- there are 3 small bolts that go through the hull, as well as sealant on both the port and bolts. With the engine in place, it might be a real pain to remove- could take some force. I'd put 5200 on the new one when installing (NEVER use silicon below the waterline!!!). 5200 is pretty messy- wear disposable gloves and keep plenty of rags and acetone on hand to clean up the excess. |
Posted By: harddock
Date Posted: April-11-2014 at 5:58pm
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I was thinking of running a tap but the flange is a tapered thread. The original plug had anti seize on it and was put in by me hand tight. I couldn't get it out and the dealer had a hard time freeing it. The handle is basically junk now. I would believe removing the one that is there ( especially if they used 5200) will be a bitch to remove. I will gingerly try to put the new into the old and hope it goes, but like I said for me nothing is usually that easy! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4487" rel="nofollow - 1998 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-11-2014 at 6:34pm
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There are tapered taps for those tapered pipe threads, dont go deeper than needed and dont start from the wrong side!!! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: April-11-2014 at 7:06pm
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Wow, never heard of one of these plugs being boogered up enough to be frozen in place. The threads should clean up pretty easy like Joe said. The cost of a pipe thread tap is really cheap compared to removing/replacing the whole flange. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-11-2014 at 10:04pm
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I agree with Eddie regarding using a NPT tap to clean up the threads rather than replacing the thru hull. The last NPT tap I needed was a 1&1/4" for the Flexifour exhaust. Got it off Ebay real cheap! I have a pretty complete set up to 2" now. They always are handy. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-11-2014 at 11:09pm
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So the plug is out but the port threads are damaged? ------------- |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: April-12-2014 at 1:55am
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Well been there! My plug had a square head and no handle and was frozen... Think was one of the first things i solved with the help of the site. So i had to remove the port with the plug and then work it loose in a bench press. Then welded a t handle on the plug and installed everything back using 5200...never a problem since then ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: harddock
Date Posted: April-12-2014 at 2:58pm
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I am not sure to what extent the threads are boogered up. I got a new drain plug and will clean things up with a tap first before using the new one. Does anyone use anything on theirs like Teflon tape or anti seize? I am getting the boat out of storage soon and I'll know more then. It is too bad they couldn't have put this in a more awkward location! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4487" rel="nofollow - 1998 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-12-2014 at 3:01pm
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Does it leak??? My pet peeve is over tightened fasteners of any kind. When mine gets tight I don't even go more than maybe like 1/8 turn past that. If I cant get it out by hand on the lift then its way too tight. No tape or sealant its a brass NPT fitting. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-12-2014 at 3:41pm
+1  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
phatsat67 wrote:Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: April-12-2014 at 4:47pm
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The only time my plug is in is when the boat is in the water. Otherwise I want any water that finds its way in to Leave as soon as possible. I never thought about it but this also keeps the plug from seizing. ------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-12-2014 at 5:30pm
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Brass to brass should never seize. I'd have to say the plug to thru hull were cross threaded and then wrenched to try and stop it from leaking. Keep in mind a with properly fit NPT thread (depth of threads vary due to tolerances} you should be able to hand tighten 2 to 2&1/2 turns before it starts to tighten up. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-12-2014 at 6:02pm
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Do like Joe said run a tapered tap through the port. I did that to my '85 during rebuild worked like a champ. I remove my plug after trip hand tight is all it should be no tape or anything else on the threads. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-12-2014 at 7:22pm
Certainly a good idea as I confirmed BUT, he didn't nor have I mentioned the need for chasing the threads on the male plug!!! Chase the plug too especially if as I mentioned it's been cross threaded! Find a plumber friend with a 3/4" NPT die!  Even with brand new pipe, I've seen male threads not in the greatest shape.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-12-2014 at 10:31pm
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If the threads have been crossed the tap may have to "cut" out some material, making it a bit of a rough fit, but if the tap spins in and out by hand when you're done, the new plug will too. I'm with Zach, I hate having to bend my arm in there and struggle to get it out so I barely tighten after it's snug. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-12-2014 at 10:40pm
David, Check the thread engagement length of a normal 3/4" NPT thread. Do you really feel it's a concern? I don't!  How many brass pipe threads have you cut? I've cut plenty through the years. I lost count a long time ago! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-12-2014 at 10:49pm
I did chase the plug when I did mine because I have a pipe threading set but I didn't mention it because I thought he was buying a new plug. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: April-12-2014 at 11:18pm
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I spin my plug in and barely tighten it. It's usually pretty tight by then end of the day, but never too tight where I can't get it off by hand. Post a pic of the plug and port if you can. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-13-2014 at 1:02am
You're right Pete, limited experience with brass, have cut and chased lots of steel thread. I'm not sure what you mean though, what does the engagement length have to do with the quality of the threads in that engagement? What I'm saying is if the threads are scored from the cross threading, a tap can't clean that up completely and it may make for a rougher fit than new thread. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-13-2014 at 8:19am
With a 3/4-14 pipe thread typically the engagement length will be between 1/2 and 5/8 which means you will have 7+ threads sealing. Cross threading will damage the top of the threads but it's really the thread sides that do the work. It doesn't take much to clean up the threads by chasing both the male and female threads. 1/2 turn with the tap and die will typically do it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: oldcuda
Date Posted: April-13-2014 at 9:08am
| Pete's right takes less than 1/2 turn to clean up NPT theads.Assembling engine now and always chase every thread before assembling.Only place I use,any sealer is dissimilar metals never brass to brass |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-13-2014 at 1:38pm
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Well thanks for the info, always willing to learn. I'm still slightly skeptical, will be interested to read how it works out for Kevin. I still picture a drain plug that seals perfectly, but is a bit raspy going in and out. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-13-2014 at 2:11pm
David, Chasing the threads should give you a nice smooth fit however since you are concerned, use an old toolmakers trick to get them real smooth. Put some lapping compound on the threads and run it in and out a few times. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-13-2014 at 2:28pm
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I like that suggestion! Will definitely give it a try on my next troublesome thread issue. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: harddock
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 1:56pm
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Follow up. I know I hate reading these threads only to never know the outcome. Well, the tap arrived today and sure enough it ran through by hand effortlessly. The new drain plug goes 3 3/4 complete turns so I think we should be all set. Thank you all for the speedy responses, ideas, and warnings. You probably save me a ton of unnecessary work. I still don't know what caused the seizure but everything is fine now. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4487" rel="nofollow - 1998 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 4:18pm
| I've noticed the phenomenon of the plug getting tighter somehow over time. It probably has to do with heating cooling cycles under the doghouse, with the cooler lakewater on the other side. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 6:59pm
Sorry Brian but I'm not going along with this theory!  As mentioned, I still feel someone cross threaded the plug.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 8:06pm
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When you turn to retrieve a skier, if you always turn to port the plug tends to tighten, if you turn to starboard the plug tends to loosen. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: oldcuda
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 8:17pm
| My plug is in transem from the outside.Which way should I turn to avoid seizing ? |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 8:39pm
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Depends on whether it's RH or LH rotation. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 8:39pm
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Power turning is what does it. Drop the boat off plane and turn either way in a civilized fashion. Mashing the handle down while you turn is what seizes the drain plug. It will also change the radio station to either gospel or ghetto rap. You have been warned. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 8:50pm
This is probably was caused my gel coat to crack too. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: oldcuda
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 8:51pm
| RH Rotation never tried radio maybe that's why.Power turn with Resorter?No such thing. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 9:20pm
David, We'll have to ask Mark but I think "down under", the tightening/loosening works in reverse! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 9:39pm
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I wonder, with some of the high horse power motors are members are running, if the port might not be "puckering"? ------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 10:16pm
Thats why Quinner carries his tool box incase he run's into a puckering port 
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-21-2014 at 12:04pm
I agree that something a little unusal (like a cross threading or debri trapped in the threads) happened to where man-nor-beast could not remove the plug. However, I'm not ready to let go of the idea that the plug can need a little more force to remove than what it was installed with. And, I'm very careful not to crossthread or overtighten. I think this phenomemon has been documented. In fact, enter Example B, where we have one Peter Brainard, of Northfield IL, heartily agreeing that Marty Mabe's homemade drain plug removal tool was a great idea: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27706&title=drain-plug-too-tight" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27706&title=drain-plug-too-tight Now, if the drain plug never got any tighter than the hand-tight installation, why would you ever need a plug removal tool?
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Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-21-2014 at 10:16pm
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The defense objects your honor!! The defense was not notified about said evidence being introduced to the court. We ask the jury to ignore the last testimony and ask for a recess until the defense has time to investigate and prepare a defense to said evidence!!!
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Posted By: harddock
Date Posted: April-24-2014 at 7:18pm
You retrieve a skier? Isn't that what the pick up boat is for? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4487" rel="nofollow - 1998 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-24-2014 at 7:28pm
Hey, nearly 90% of the people I've taken skiing have made it back to shore. I forgot to pick up the others, but I don't see what that has to do with this discussion! ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |