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strut bearing replacement

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33643
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 4:42pm


Topic: strut bearing replacement
Posted By: dustyb
Subject: strut bearing replacement
Date Posted: May-20-2014 at 5:57pm
i have a 78 ski nautique and i need to replace the strut bearing. can i just remove the strut itself or do you suggest me removing the shaft? to remove the shaft do i have to remove the rudder also or will the shaft slide past it?



Replies:
Posted By: JDD33
Date Posted: May-22-2014 at 12:14am
Having just replaced the strut bushing on my '87..... Unless you have alignment issues or the strut is bent I wouldn't remove it. It makes the realignment much more complicated.
Open the back of the boat up and drop the rudder, remove your prop and then you will need to remove the shaft from the collar at the transmission. 4 pieces of threaded rod nuts and washers and a socket smaller than 1" and patience will press the shaft thru the collar
Then u can slide the shaft out.
Remove and press in your new strut bushings, now at this time u can easily measure, cut and replace the packing for your rudder and shaft packing glands.
Slide the shaft back in and heat the collar on your grill or outdoor cooker or in the oven. This expands the collar so it will slide over the shaft. Oven mitts or welding gloves are highly recemended.
Visit the Alignment video an adjust your drive line accordingly!
Reinstall the other parts, water test and adjust the packing glands on the rudder and the shaft!
Go boating and have fun!



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Old school goin back to school!


Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: May-22-2014 at 12:58am
^^^^^
See? just like that!

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Jesus was a bare-footer.............


Posted By: dustyb
Date Posted: May-22-2014 at 4:44pm
ok i removed the rudder, and shaft. the bearing in it looks to be a 2 piece bearing. any tips on removing the bearing or is cutting it the best way?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-22-2014 at 9:05pm
Dusty,
Cut it and roll it in on itself is the way I've found to be the easiest.

How hard was it removing the shaft from the trans coupling. If it came out easy, you have a problem. That is a heat shrink fit. If the fit was sloppy, then the likely cause was misalignment that fretted the shaft as well as the coupling bore. Get some measurements. The fit needs to be zero to -.0005

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: dustyb
Date Posted: May-22-2014 at 10:46pm
it wasnt easy at all. took me about 2hrs using the bolt and socket trick but i finally got it.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-22-2014 at 11:01pm
Originally posted by dustyb dustyb wrote:

it wasnt easy at all. took me about 2hrs using the bolt and socket trick but i finally got it.

Good to hear. Sounds like you are OK! Still do some measuring and yes, go though a total alignment procedure.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: dustyb
Date Posted: May-23-2014 at 2:44am
ok I got a problem. when I was pressing in the strut bearing I got it almost all the way in lacking 1/4 to 3/16 of an inch from being full in when it stopped. it actually flared the end out as I was pressing it in using threaded rod and large washer.my question is can I just cut off the little bit flush with the strut and be fine? I don't know why it quit moving, I didn't see any burs or anything that would cause this. I don't see why 3/16 less would cause any harm but what do you guys think? should I pull it out and try again? plus those bearing aren't cheap.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-23-2014 at 6:26am
Dusty,
What length cutlass did you use?
Edit: If the clearance between the strut and prop hub is 50% to 100% of the shaft diameter (1/2" to 1"), Then I would leave the extra sticking out of the strut if the extra is on the aft end of the strut. There will be plenty of support for the radial loads from the shaft.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<



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