Cutlass Bearing replacement
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33724
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 9:46am
Topic: Cutlass Bearing replacement
Posted By: slalomjunky
Subject: Cutlass Bearing replacement
Date Posted: May-30-2014 at 7:44pm
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I have a question about Cutlass bearing replacement. Has anyone ever used the Vesconite bearings instead of the traditional Brass and polymer rubber? How was it compared to the brass one to press in/out? Manufacturer of the vesconite claims about 10x the life expectancy over the brass and rubber. I would love to have some opinions and more info. I think there are a lot of very knowledgeable folks on this site. Any info would be greatly appreciated. also has anyone ever used the strutpro device to press these bearings out/in without taking the shaft out? Seems like a pretty cool device (albeit a little expensive $400.00)that could save a lot of R&R time. Thanks Kerry ------------- Utah '94 Ski, '03 Malibu SS LXI |
Replies:
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: May-30-2014 at 8:11pm
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I have about a full season on them and am pleased thus far. Dont buy that tool Dont over-tighten the grub screws on the new bearing. Use locktight. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2014 at 9:05pm
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Kerry, You've been spending too much time on the Skidim site!  Yes, as mentioned the "Strutpro" is a gimmick! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: slalomjunky
Date Posted: May-31-2014 at 11:47am
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What do you mean when you say gimmick? Too much time on skidim? Do you recommend staying with the Brass and rubber? Have you watched the Strutpro video? Just trying to get some good information. Kerry ------------- Utah '94 Ski, '03 Malibu SS LXI |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-31-2014 at 2:41pm
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Kerry, My experience with cutlass bearings is there isn't very much wall thickness on the outer shell to press on even with a close tolerance pressing bushing made to fit the strut bore. If you notice in the video, it shows a rather large cutlass and not our typical 1" by 1&1/4" exclusive of the rubber. The Strutpro will work for a couple jobs but then the bushing will mushroom. My suggestion would be to cut the old shaft out and replace it with an ARE system. You will be dollars ahead plus it will make future service easy. I know many have had good luck with the plastic bushings. I have not and prefer sticking with the good old brass and rubber. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: May-31-2014 at 3:19pm
| I purchased an '89 SN over the winter that needed a damper plate. While I had the tranny out I decided it was a good time to swap the cutlass bearing since there was enough clearance to slide the shaft forward and remove the bearing. I used the vesconite bearing from skidim. It was extremely easy to press in. Just tapped it with a rubber mallet. The hard part was getting the old one out. I used a hacksaw and made a few cuts then pushed it out. I have only had the boat out a few times but the bearing appears to work just fine. Depending on which boat you have it may be easier to pull the tranny rather than some of the other methods used to replace the bearing. Pulling the tranny only took about an hour on my boat. |
Posted By: jhersey29
Date Posted: November-06-2014 at 7:33pm
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Built this same tool but found the 2 foot was better for the Nautique. Cutting and trying anything else was nearly futile. This was so much easier but does take some strength and patience. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05U2WV2Jn_8" rel="nofollow - You Tube Video |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-06-2014 at 7:52pm
Jim, The link you provided is bad. What's the "strength and patience" needed? I've never had a problem with a sawsall (or hack saw) and a length of threaded rod. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
jhersey29 wrote:Posted By: jhersey29
Date Posted: November-06-2014 at 7:58pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05U2WV2Jn_8" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05U2WV2Jn_8 The 2nd bearing/bushing is so far up in the strut that getting to it with the hacksaw was ugly. This tool is so cheap and so easy to use and you don't have to bend and pry a bearing that has been stuck in a strut for 15 years. I tried the hacksaw and couldn't get the bushing to bend up at all even with a hammer and sharp instrument.  Parts: 2 Feet of 1/2" All Thread 1 - 1/2" Nut - Requires 3/4" Wrench 2 - 1/2" Washers - these bend so need the stronger thick one or a bunch of these. 1 - 1/2" Thick Steel Washer 1 - 6" Plumbing Pipe with inner dimension slightly later than 1 1/4" I believe this one measures 1.38" ID. 1 - 1/2" Nut 1 - 1/2" Lock Washer 6 - 1/2" Flat Washers stacked. The washers measure 1.245" with a 1/2" hole. I sanded them down to about 1.210" with a belt sander. 1 - 1/2" Lock Washer 1 - 1/2" Nut 1 - Vice Grips. The vice grips where clamped onto the all thread and set against the trailer to prevent the all thread from spinning. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-06-2014 at 8:51pm
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Jim, I'm glad your idea worked. Yes, a sawsall and a diamond point chisel do are handy for the cutlass removal. I do have one suggestion and that to get rid of the vise grips. They will just f*** up the threads making nut removal impossible without running a die over the threads. Double nut the threaded rod. They work by locking the two nuts together and then you can get a wrench on it to keep the rod from rotating. I've been a plant engineer for 35 years and seeing a "mechanic" using a vise grip or slip joint pliers makes the hair stand up on the back of my neck. I had one "mechanic' that used them to a point where it was instrumental in his dismissal. I consider both tools to be nothing but hackers equipment!  Yes, there is a place for them but that's rare and never on threads! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jhersey29
Date Posted: November-06-2014 at 9:05pm
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I agree. Hate using those things, pliers and crescent wrenchs but in this case I don't need to back anything off the back end. Everything can be pulled towards the other end. I made most of the removal with out them but when my arm started getting tired I went ghetto. Fortunately they did the trick for the small project. I'll pick up some more bolts next time at ace and update the parts list. Thanks |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-06-2014 at 10:12pm
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I've gotten 15 years already out of a rubber cutlass. It might even be original, which would make it 27 years. I don't think I need 150 years out of any boat part. Do they still put rubber in at the factory? ------------- |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: November-07-2014 at 1:00am
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I installed the new plastic type cutlass bearing last January. Only 25 hours use so far but with careful alignment there is no drag on this prop. I turn it with one finger and very little muscle involved. I hope it lasts like they claim but I have yet to find a negative. The set screws seemed to want to distort the plastic/delryn or whatever it is made out of so I drilled and tapped the set screw locations in the cutlass bearing so the set screw now screws into the new cutlass bearing. I used red lock tite to keep it from coming loose. So far so good. |