Resin Question
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3396
Printed Date: January-16-2025 at 9:05am
Topic: Resin Question
Posted By: The Lake
Subject: Resin Question
Date Posted: April-18-2006 at 10:01pm
My 69 SN has a wooden spray rail attached. I sanded it this week and reapplied teak oil (however I'm pretty sure it is oak). Now I'm thinking that as old as it is it would be good to seal it better than the teak oil will. Is there any type of resin that would work for this?
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Walk on Water
www.coldwater.me
http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique
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Replies:
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: April-18-2006 at 10:04pm
I would call a shop that specializes in restoring classic wooden boats. We used Spar Varnish on ours for years, but I bet they use something better now. If there is not one in you area, you can call Sierra Boat Company in Tahoe Vista California. They are probably the best on the west coast and are usually very helpful. BKH
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Livin' the Dream
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Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: April-18-2006 at 11:40pm
hey Lake,
it just so happens , Im restoring a 1962 wooden Higgins. (ala 62 wood) Your right , a lot of the spray rails, chine rails and center bottom skegs, at least in wooden boats were oak. Oak is more resistant to impact than teak or mahogany. Just make sure if you ever need to make new, that they are white oak ,not red oak....something to do with rot resistance.
Im in the process of varnishing my boat..just got done wet sanding coat # 9... Im using a marine varnish from Pett*t called Flagship. it comes in qts and runs around $30. There are cheaper varnishes out there , but this has some of the best UV protection. Plus the gloss is fantastic!
If you decide on a good marine varnish,I would call whatever company your thinking about buying it from and ask them if its ok to go over freshly applied teak oil...
Good luck and keep us posted..
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier
62 Classic..
73 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: The Lake
Date Posted: April-19-2006 at 5:03am
Thanks guys, marine varnish it is.
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Walk on Water
www.coldwater.me
http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: fredo68
Date Posted: April-19-2006 at 11:23am
you should ask woodboy hed know
fredo68
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fredo68
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Posted By: David F
Date Posted: April-19-2006 at 12:46pm
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I once had a wood boat and man was it a lot of work. If it was me, I would use IPE when replacing items like splash rails. IPE is incredibly rot resistant and hard as a rock.
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Posted By: The Lake
Date Posted: April-19-2006 at 3:10pm
David F, you have me stumped (not too hard to do), what is IPE?
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Walk on Water
www.coldwater.me
http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: David F
Date Posted: April-19-2006 at 3:24pm
IPE (not an abbreviation) is a Brazilian hardwood. Widely used as decking material and available in many sizes. AKA "iron wood".
It is about 3x denser than oak and sinks when placed in water. Untreated, the wood has about a 50 year life span when used outdoors. It was once considered a trash wood in Brazil and widely used as pier supports due to marine borer and rot resistance. The Atlantic Boardwalk is constructed of IPE and is untreated in any way. The wood is resistant to cupping and splintering, but can "check" on the ends (more likely with larger pieces such as 2X and 4X material). It can be worked with standard wood working tools and must be pre-drilled for fasteners.
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