1993 nautique won't run over 3200 rpm
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34065
Printed Date: October-08-2024 at 8:33am
Topic: 1993 nautique won't run over 3200 rpm
Posted By: JasonS
Subject: 1993 nautique won't run over 3200 rpm
Date Posted: July-04-2014 at 3:59pm
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Last year I asked a question about this same problem and just now have time to get back to it. Boat runs good, starts good and idles good. If you try to run full throttle it falls back to 2800 rpm and kinda stumbles around. Pull the throttle back a little bit(about 1-1/2") it smoothes off and increases speed and rpm back to 3200. Speed is around 34 mph. While running my buddy watched the carburetor work. The secondaries seem to open up as in the cam on the side of the carburetor starts opening counterclockwise under a load. While under a load or trying to plane off the valve on the other side if the carburetor opens up then closes when the boat planes out. Where do I start? In neutral the engine will rev up over 4000 rpms. Not sure how high because I don't like doing that to the engine but it will run well over 3200 rpm under no load |
Replies:
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-04-2014 at 4:40pm
| My first guess would be that fuel isn't getting to the secondaries. Maybe the needle is stuck closed or the floats are set too low. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-04-2014 at 4:48pm
| What do I do to check that? |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-04-2014 at 5:07pm
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That's a little tricky. It's easy enough to find out if the secondaries are opening... for that do a google search on Holley Secondary Paper Clip. Sounds like your friend may have confirmed that they are opening. If the hesitation starts right when they open, that's a strong indicator. But, to actually confirm gas is flowing, that's tough, cause the secondaries won't open just by revving it in neutral. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-04-2014 at 5:22pm
| The hesitation is not really till top end. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-05-2014 at 4:06pm
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Your description is certainly starving for fuel. Either the carb is running dry as mentioned above or your fuel pump is not putting out enough volume at speed. My Brother had a very similar issue with his Supra but it turned out to be a problem with the fuel tank causing fuel restriction. His would pull hard even with the 4 barrel open and then starve out slow down and recover once the RPM came down. I think there is an anti syphon valve on the tank that can cause this gas flow issue. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: July-05-2014 at 4:50pm
| 93, does it have a ProTec ignition? If the fuel checks out OK that would be the next thing to look at. Secondaries shouldn't be opening up at that speed, they don't normally open until 4000 or so. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-05-2014 at 5:24pm
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I pulled the fuel filter/ water seperator off today and found that the filter paper was a rusty orange color. I found a wix until the PCM replacement gets here. Where do I access the anti syphon valve and how do I check the fuel pressure out of the fuel pump? The engine is a PCM 351w. Thanks for the help. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-07-2014 at 4:12pm
| One other thing I noticed was the temperature running high. With a 142 thermostat pumping 70 deg river water, it idles and runs less than 2000 rpm at 160 deg. Under a load or at high RPMs it will get to 180-210. I know the two are probably related but not sure how. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-07-2014 at 11:25pm
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The anti siphon valve is at the top of your fuel tank and looks like kinda like this or it might be an elbow fitting that is similar: http://www.nautiqueparts.com/images/products/detail/S4407.jpg" rel="nofollow - http://www.nautiqueparts.com/images/products/detail/S4407.jpg
They might be related if you have Protec... Don, does Protec have limp mode? |
JasonS wrote:Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-08-2014 at 12:06am
| Mine has a distributor, how do I tell if I have a protec ignition? |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-08-2014 at 9:56am
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Post a pic of your motor is the easiest way for us to tell you. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-08-2014 at 10:54am
Protec set-up will have the plug wires coming off the coil packs on the rear of the motor behind the carb. The dizzy in the front will be flat with no wires coming off it. A pic of the motor would most definitely help. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: July-08-2014 at 2:03pm
| Yes there's a limp mode with a ProTec. I don't know what temps set it off. It watches the temp and the oil pressure, check the manual in the reference section for the details. It could be in limp mode if it's getting that warm or it has a bad sender. I want to say that it limits you to 3000 RPM's by retarding the timing, with a tach that's a little off that could certainly be what's happening. |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-08-2014 at 3:38pm
| You can try disconnecting the oil pressure switch and the temperature switch on the engine to eliminate either one of them being bad. The oil pressure switch is located just above the fuel pump and the temp switch is on the front passenger side of the intake manifold. If one of these detects either low oil pressure or high water temperature they will close an internal switch that shorts to ground and subsequently puts the Protec in limp mode. The engine will run normally with them disconnected unless there is another problem. You will also see that there is a temp sending unit and an oil pressure sending unit that sends the information to your dash guages. If you disconnect one of these your guage will not read correctly but it won't hurt anything. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-09-2014 at 2:26pm
| It looks like it is NOT a Protec ignition. Trying to get my wife to take and send me a pic so I can post it. The distributor is on the front of the motor with wires coming off the top going straight to the spark plugs. |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-09-2014 at 2:54pm
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It's definitely not Protec then. When was the last time you did a tune up on it? Granted this does indeed sound like a fuel problem but if your fuel filter was that nasty from neglect I have to assume that a tune up wouldn't hurt either. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-09-2014 at 3:59pm
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Ive owned the boat for 3 years and have never done one. Only thing I've done to the engine is have the carburetor rebuild do to backfiring. I ordered a new fuel filter, new cap and rotor, new plug wires and plugs on Monday thinking that was in order. Once they arrive ill try again! I really hate to replace all of that stuff at once in case the problem goes away. I wont know for sure what fixed it. I may take the stuff to the water and change them out one at a time and do a test run after each phase. Since most here think that fuel delivery is a problem i'll start with the fuel filter. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-09-2014 at 4:05pm
| Im thinking out loud here and asking at the same time, If the fuel filter was clogged I guess it could allow enough fuel through to run the primaries but not both primaries and secondaries? It does stumble a little when I first take off pulling a skier but levels off real quick. |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-09-2014 at 6:00pm
This would've been nice to know at the start of the thread. I'm officially recanting my diagnosis and saying you have an ignition problem. The fuel filter doesn't help but you have an ignition issue. Everybody thinks the carb is the problem when it backfires but a backfire is generally ignition related.
Just do the tune up. It doesn't matter what does or doesn't fix it. You have no idea when the last tune up was done but it had to be by the previous owner at some point and it's been over three years. I'm guessing that the impeller has not been replaced either since you've owned it. Do yourself a favor and order one of those and replace it too or you'll have far more significant issues if that frags on you. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-09-2014 at 8:24pm
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I ordered a Preslolite Tune up kit that includes points, condenser, rotor button, distributor cap and gasket. Plugs, Plug wire set. As far as the tune up am I missing anything? I did order a new Sherwood impeller also. Any other suggestions as far as parts that I need to change out this go round. Obviously if this doesn't fix it I'll need other parts but want to make sure I am getting what is needed for the current diagnosis. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-09-2014 at 8:24pm
I hope you've at least changed the oil a few times over those three years? A full tune-up would definitely be a wise move. If you haven't changed it in the last 50 hours (oil), I'd do that as well. Transmission fluid should be checked too. I like to change mine every 50 hours. It's less than $20 for 2 quarts of Dex/Merc. Also take at look at your belts while you're at it. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-09-2014 at 8:28pm
| Oil has been changed every year at the start of the season when I dewinterize it. It usually only gets 30-50 hours a year on it though. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-13-2014 at 12:22pm
| Got my tuneup kit in and have no idea where the piounts and condenser are on my motor to change them out. Also what is the blue tube and little pill they sent? |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-13-2014 at 12:46pm
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Actually, yours probably doesn't have points and a condenser. My 93 is electronic rather than points. I'd need a pic of the tube and pill. If I had to guess Id say PVC valve, but I have no idea. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-13-2014 at 12:56pm
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I'm thinking the tube maybe an insulating sleeve,the pill contains the lube for the rubbing block on the points to the cam. His motor may have already had the protec removed. The thing that worries me is if he doesn't know where the points are to change them what are the chances of success. Do you have a timing light? How about a dwell meter? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-13-2014 at 1:38pm
| I believe that's right. There is a purple and a black wire that come out below the distributor cap. There is a sealed module that is in the distributor under the rotor and cap. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-13-2014 at 1:42pm
| I am not as you've probably already guessed a mechanic. I wouldn't even know what to do with a timing light. That us my biggest problem with this boat. I don't know much about engines. I am an industrial electrician and am used to troubleshooting problems and fixing them. With engines, I don't always know where to start and probably ask a lot if dumb questions because I do t understand. I really do appreciate all the help I get from this site. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-13-2014 at 1:55pm
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Pics would be helpful. But it sounds like you have an electronic. The nice thing about that is you don't have to worry about dwell etc. You can time it later, but a tuneup (changing the cap and rotor) on an electronic won't change the timing from what it is. Just take care not to mix up the wires when doing the cap. Also, double check the firing order in the reference section (93 Engine Manual) as someone may have already mixed them up. When you do the cap, unscrew and lift the cap with the wires still in place. Set the new cap down, then move the wires on at a time. The rotor should just pull up and the new rotor should press down. I don't think there's a screw but check, can't remember. Might need to grip the old rotor with something to pull it up. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-13-2014 at 2:22pm
| Well I changed cap, rotor, plugs, wires and fuel filter. Dang carburetor was all jacked up. Would not idle at all was surging like crazy. I adjusted the idle screw and the fuel air adjustments and have her purring like a kitten!! It ran and idled fine before after some adjusting. I can wait to get time to put it on the water and give it a real test. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-13-2014 at 2:38pm
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Good deal it's easy to forget that many people now days have no experience doing tuneups. When we were younger it was a right of passage watching your Dad tune up the car every fall ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-13-2014 at 3:25pm
| My dad could work on any engine known to man when he was younger but refused to show me anything about it. I was bad to take power tools apart when I was a little kid so I guess he was afraid of what all I would take apart if I knew anything about engines. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 2:24am
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All of these techniques (like timing an engine) can be seen on a you-tube how to's. It's worth the time to learn DIY stuff. It's like building blocks - each new experience helps you down the road. I don't even start a car repair without consulting the internet anymore. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 10:35am
I agree with Brian. Just change cap, rotor and plug. Check the wires to make sure they're good. Go skiing. No need to time it. Much easier in your situation than points. After you changed that stuff, the carb was jacked up because you had it rebuilt (for no reason) and you needed to make idle mixture and idle RPM adjustments to it all over again. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-16-2014 at 10:43pm
| Ok ran the boat in the water today and no change. It takes a long while of warming up at about 1100 rpms to even be able to idle. Top speed is 34 and top rpms are 3200. With a skier it stumbles backfires and misses when I floor it to take off from idle. Even if I put a little pressure on the skier it still does it. What do I need to check or change now? |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-16-2014 at 11:28pm
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The description on this last post is a little different than the original description (now has poor idle & takeoff). I think you are going to have to suspect both ignition & carb. Check for good spark, check that the plug wires are in the right sequence, still recommend checking timing. If you have the prestolite EI dizzy, there is a gap adjustment inside that could have changed. Maybe the advanced weights are seized. Do you have a mechanic that you can take it too? His experience might be worth the money on this one. Otherwise you might end up throwing a bunch of parts at it to no avail. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 11:07am
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Did you verify you have the plug wires in the right firing sequence? Pretty common issue to get the wires wrong when changing a cap. I guess another thing is verify that the choke is operating as it should. Remove the flame arrestor. When cold, the choke plate should have a 1/16"-1/8" gap opening. Turn the key on without starting the engine and the choke plate should slowly open up to wide open. This will take about 45 seconds to a minute. If it isn't setup and operating right, it could certainly cause some issues. Maybe not the same issues you're having but issues none the less. You've changed the ignition parts and messed with the carb (which is probably not right either based on your experience level) so I don't know what other parts you can throw at it. Short of verifying the wiring order, the only other thing to do is checking the timing and then going from there. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 12:28pm
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Thanks, Ill try that. I guess Ill have to find someone to go with me. It seems to run fine sitting on the trailer. I know for a fact I didn't get any of the wires wrong swapping them over, that doesn't mean they weren't that way when I got it though it has ran this way every since Ive had it. The part that Im not understanding is that it "seems" to run fine or smoothly when its is at or above 1500 RPM's. It just falls on its face on the start, levels off, then runs out too early at 3200 rpm's. As a recap, I changed the cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, and fuel filter. Oh and the new impeller fixed my cooling problem too. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 12:45pm
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Any pics of your boat and engine? Do you know the rotation of your engine? Most we're Left hand standard automotive by 93, but a few were right hand reverse. This could be a cause if firing order confusion. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 12:55pm
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Standing at the front of the engine looking at the belts, it turns counterclockwise.(that's from memory) trying to get wife to send me engine pics. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 1:02pm
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Uh-ha! Sounds like you might have a righty. If someone put the plug wires set up for the more common lefty, that could be your issue. You'd be surprised how well a motor will run with the plug wires mixed up. You might not be able to tell until you lean on the throttle. I once managed to mix up wires in a 4 cylinder Jetta, and it still ran, just ran terrible. A V8 would more easily mask that mistake. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 1:28pm
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Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 1:30pm
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Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 1:31pm
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 1:45pm
| A v8 will start and run surprisingly well on 6 or 4 cylinders (1 or 2 sets of plug wires crossed), but it will not run on 1 cylinder- which is what you'd e trying to do with a LH firing order on a RH 351w. |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 1:58pm
So it's never run right since you've had it? Brian is right. If the crank is rotating CCW as you describe, it's a RH rotation. The pics look like it's canted back at a pretty good angle which would indicate a 1:1 BW tranny and all 1:1 trannys were RH which is pretty rare in that year boat but certainly possible to have. Like Tim said, only having 4 or 6 cylinders working unloaded on the trailer can run pretty well but will do exactly as you describe loaded on the water. Unfortunately, I can't help with firing order in that engine. I've seen a couple different ones on the Ford engines so someone will have to verify what that would be. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 1:59pm
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Good point Tim, I didn't think about that. But, it still sounds to be like some plug wires are crossed or the spark is arching somewhere. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 2:03pm
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Page 17 of the original manual, which is page 21 of the PDF, has the information you need to check the firing order: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/Downloads/1993_PCM_Engine_Manual.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/Downloads/1993_PCM_Engine_Manual.pdf |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 2:04pm
| 18456273 |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 2:07pm
| Thanks for the help, Ill check that as soon as I get home and post the results. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 7:08pm
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Ok another newbie question or two. Choke plate, is that the plate that is over the primaries on the carburetor? If so I believe that mine stays open all the time. Second one is about firing order and cylinder number location. If I am standing in front of the engine like in the second picture, how are the cylinders numbered. Also I looked at the firing order in the manual and not sure where to start on the distributor. Is the drawing based on standing in front of the motor looking back at it or standing at the back end of the motor? Sorry for the questions but I want to get this right. Thanks again. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 7:54pm
Here is the cylinder layout ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 8:32pm
This is the distributor on my RH motor. Make sure yours is definitely RH. Keep in mind, your rotor turns counter clockwise, regardless of rotation. The exact position of the #1 depends on how the dizzy is set up, but the wires relation to one another is important.
|
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 8:33pm
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2and 3 were swapped!!! It was 18456372 instead if 1845627. Choke plate is setting at about 3/16" open now and are slowly opening. There is black crap all in the primaries and on the choke plate. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 8:47pm
| I checked rotation again, sitting in drivers seat looking at motor, engine rotates counterclockwise. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 9:06pm
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I thought the rotation was designated in the 2nd letter of the model number on the engine tag. PRP is right hand rotation. PLP is left (standard). No? ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 11:52pm
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Nice! Have you gotten a chance to test it out? |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-18-2014 at 12:05am
Which is RH. You are on the right path. ------------- |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-18-2014 at 1:49am
| Unfortunately no. Hopefully I will tomorrow afternoon. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-18-2014 at 1:53pm
| With all of the backfiring, Im assuming it was dumping fuel on an open valve? If that is the case, do I need to change the oil and filter now. Also do I need to clean all the black oily fuel off of the choke plate and in the primaries in the carburetor before I run it much or will it just burn off? Still haven't had time to run it but am trying to think ahead before I get too carried away if it does run good. |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-18-2014 at 2:51pm
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Probably not but check it. If it's clean and at the right level, don't worry about the oil. As for the carb, don't worry about that right now either. Make sure it runs first. The throttle plates will probably clean up OK but not the choke plate. I would take the carb off and clean it up with some carb cleaner and reinstall, but that's me. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-19-2014 at 11:38pm
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Finally put boat in the water today. No stumble, no backfire nothing. I could get the rpms to about 3700 steady. When I eased forward on the throttle and I mean barely move it at all, it would was up to about 3950 then fall backdown to 3200. Ease back in the throttle a little and right back to 3700 with no problem and stay there. It almost seemed to me if the problem now is when the secondaries open up it fails then goes back to an rpm it can handle. Thanks a bunch for your help in the firing that sure cleared up all the stumble and backfire problems. From idle, I can gouge it and it never misses a lick, hits plane instantly! |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-20-2014 at 8:45pm
In your very first post, you mentioned a cam closing again, once you were on plane. Do you have any idea what part of the carb that is? That detail has me curious. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: July-20-2014 at 9:24pm
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It is the "cam" that is held closed by the throttle linkage. It keeps the secondaries closed until the throttle is wide open I believe. Before I fixed the firing problem, if you manually engaged the secondaries under wide open throttle it fell on its face like it wasn't getting enough fuel? As soon as you took pressure off of the secondary valve (valve on drivers side that has rubber diaphragm and spring in it) it would close back on its own. It is still doing the same thing after firing problem is fixed. Just does it at a little higher rpms now |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-21-2014 at 11:50am
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One test, while it's idling in neutral, on the trailer or whichever: See if you can rev it up a little using just the secondaries. You might have to disconnect the linkage to that cam, but on mine, the cam will let me open the secondaries a little. Just wondering if you're getting any fuel at all to the secondaries. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: August-02-2014 at 1:07pm
| Alright finally got back to the boat. I pulled the linkage loose and when I manually open the secondaries it dies. It is kinda hard to open the from the completely closed state I'm assuming vacuum pressure holds them closed? |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-02-2014 at 2:43pm
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Well, there is at least some spring pressure you're working against. Well, the fact that it dies tells me you're not getting and fuel to the secondary bowl. Either something is plugging up the fuel transfer tube, or the float for the secondary bowl is adjusted incorrectly or the needle is stuck somehow. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: August-02-2014 at 2:49pm
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Well by now you know what is coming next! How do I check those things? |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-02-2014 at 3:03pm
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Well, unfortunately, there isn't really a way outside of taking things apart. Is your boat always accessible to you? In other words, do you travel to your boat and the water, or does the boat stay with you and you take it to the water? Just trying to figure out the best way to approach this. Either way, you're going to want to get a good quality rebuild kit. Your task may be limited to just unscrewing and removing the rear fuel bowl. But, even for that, you'll need a bowl gasket and potentially the transfer tube Edit: "O" ring gaskets, which would be contained in the kit. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: August-02-2014 at 3:08pm
| Yes the boat stays at my house. After doing a quick you tube search on float level adjustment, I believe my carb has no external adjustments for the float level? |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: August-02-2014 at 3:15pm
| Since my carb abilities are limited would it be an option to disconnect the main fuel line to carb and blow air through to see if the lines to the secondaries are even open. Not sure this is even a good idea just thinking out loud. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-02-2014 at 4:26pm
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It's good that the boat is nearby. That makes things easier. You're right there are no external adjustments. I don't think blowing air will help you. You'll at least have to remove the rear bowl. I reread the start of the thread, and looks like you had this carb rebuilt already... Do you have any potential recourse there? If not, I'd be tempted to spring for a new carb or at least a known, trusted factory rebuilt one. I think Holley even sells rebuilt ones direct. |
Posted By: JasonS
Date Posted: August-02-2014 at 5:09pm
| Unfortunately I have no recourse with the rebuild. He's since gone out of business(imagine that) even looked at the old repair bill and paperwork and he even put on there he tested it on the water and top rpms were 3500? Should have know then. Apparently he didn't even try to fix the secondaries and new they weren't working right. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-03-2014 at 2:17pm
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It might be possible that the wrong rebuild kit was used? I know Holleys are very sensitive to where the holes are in the gaskets. Not sure if that could fully cut off the fuel though. Of course, maybe the bowl is getting fuel it's just not making it to the jets. Does the wrong gasket causing this sound plausible to anyone? |