Starting Proceedure
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34071
Printed Date: November-24-2024 at 2:19pm
Topic: Starting Proceedure
Posted By: bblakley
Subject: Starting Proceedure
Date Posted: July-06-2014 at 10:35am
Can someone help with a simple question. I have a 76 Ski Tique. What is the correct starting procedure?
1. Drain Plug 2. Put boat in water 3. Run Blower for 1 minute or so. 4. Pull out button on shifter to neutral 5. Start the boat.
5 is where I am having the question. Do you give the throttle a pump? Do you push it to the spot where it kinda clicks into place?
I don't want to flood it. Just curious if there is a right way and wrong way.
Thanx all,
Bryan
------------- bblakley
|
Replies:
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: July-06-2014 at 11:25am
Just like your wife and my wife, they all work the same only different. Sometimes it fires right up and other times you can try every trick in the book and the bitch still wont start.
------------- Jesus was a bare-footer.............
|
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: July-06-2014 at 11:39am
Seems to me, any carb'd motor likes 2 pumps at any given time to start unless completely cold as in sat for a few weeks or completely hot as in you just shut it off so someone could load in the boat. Or since you're in the Orlando area, come out to Lake Dora and I'll show you how to start it and cruise the lakes.
|
Posted By: bblakley
Date Posted: July-07-2014 at 9:41am
Well... Actually seemed to like if I pulled back all the way to start. Anyone have an old manual that shows how? Just like to start out with what is supposed to work. Once it was warmed up it started in the center position just fine. Wondered if a certain position puts it in "Choke" Position for cold start or something. Looked at the online manuals but didn't see a procedure.
------------- bblakley
|
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-07-2014 at 10:05am
The choke is electric. Pull the button and put the throttle at about 45 degrees. It should have a detent that keeps it ther(front or back). It's like a fast idle position. Pump it twice from that position and crank it over when cold. Your Tique is old enough that it may or may not have that fast idle detent. I really don't know for sure if the early Morse controls had that option which I think yours would be. Others may interject.
The choke should have a 1/16"-1/8" gap when completely cold and as soon as you turn on the ignition switch it will slowly start to open up. It will take 45 sec. to a minute to open completely. A carbed engine will be a little cold blooded when you first start it cold but by the time the choke opens up it should be idling nice and smooth.
------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.
Eddie
|
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: August-13-2014 at 4:05pm
backfoot100 wrote:
Your Tique is old enough that it may or may not have that fast idle detent. I really don't know for sure if the early Morse controls had that option which I think yours would be. Others may interject.
|
Dad's 64 Ski Nautique with the REALLY old Morse has the detent...
------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N
|
Posted By: bblakley
Date Posted: August-13-2014 at 9:18pm
Thanx for the info. It does have the detent. The second mechanic has said the carb is bad, that it just dumps gas out the two from jets when you go to start it flooding the engine. So I am taking the carb off and seining it back to National in Jax FL to get repaired under warranty. Hoping this helps.
------------- bblakley
|
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: August-14-2014 at 10:48am
Wait....what....second mechanic??? Man, you really need to find a mechanic willing to get his hands dirty or just start working on this yourself.
What you describe is a fairly common occurrence that we've documented here before. It can have a few different causes.
when is it dumpimg the gas? A) When it's backed down the launch ready to start B) While it's running C) After it's been running and then shut down A misadjusted float level, a dirty or poor quality needle/seat, a contaminated float bowl or a fuel pump putting out too much pressure are the most common issues.
Did you replace the fuel pump at all?
Let us know when it's dumping.
------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.
Eddie
|
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-14-2014 at 11:18am
Again, second mechanic? So much time has passed over a simple issue I thought you were skiing now. I don't know how much faith I put in National. They seem to be too much into mass production. I don't know who your mechanic is but I really hope it's a real inboard mechanic like the Woody crew at Southeast or Bull (BIMP) or maybe Orlando Nautiques. Those 3 would've solved the issue by now. I've found too many "mechanics" in the area who are auto guys that "know how to work on inboards because it's just like a car".
|
Posted By: AAM196
Date Posted: August-14-2014 at 11:42am
baitkiller wrote:
Just like your wife and my wife, they all work the same only different. Sometimes it fires right up and other times you can try every trick in the book and the bitch still wont start. |
haha.. nice analogy
you want to give her a little drink to get her happy but NOT TO MUCH or she will not be able to perform!
On the 83 MC, I pull pin give one full pump backwards then return to N and turn key.. starts right up 98% of the time. If not, (just like with wife) I must have done something wrong I didn't even realize..
good luck with boat and life..
|
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: August-14-2014 at 3:54pm
They are all different as said above.
My 86 likes two pumps if its been sitting for a week or more. It likes one pump on cold starts in the morning with a return to neutral then key it.
If it's been sitting for more than a week it likes a short 1100 rpm or so warm up for 30 seconds.
Even the pmc manual states to give it two pumps and let it fast idle at 1200 rpms for 30 seconds before going into gear.
-------------
|
Posted By: bblakley
Date Posted: August-15-2014 at 12:19am
Really appreciate the comments!!
Well... In a nutshell:
At the mechanic is where it has been seen. Dumping fuel while the mechanic is working on it.
First time we (at home) had cleaned the fuel tank, replaced the fuel lines, installed a fuel/water sep, installed a new PCM fuel pump, and this rebuilt carb. Took it to a local boat guy and said, can you get her started (it hadn't been turned over in 10yrs). He got it started and supposedly tuned it. Called me while he had it to say it started but one of the jets was dumping gas. He wanted it another day to investigate. Said it stopped, and was OK.
Took her to the lake... . After almost running the battery down and a bunch of almost starts she fired up. Didn't want to idle, but she ran. Sounded good for about five minutes. Knonked out. Wouldn't restart.
Took her to Nautiques of Orlando and they got her started on their fuel and told me wasn't pulling any water. Bad fuel and impeller.
Took her home and installed a new impeller and thermostat.
Took her to lake .... She started after a whole bunch of coaxing. Sounded good, but would not idle.
Back to Orlando Nautiques, tries to start but immediately saw it is dumping gas from the front two jets. Recommended I get a new carb and not a rebuilt.
A local had said to take the fuel line off the fuel pump on the tank side and blow through to see if there was an obstruction. We did, there was. I was hopeful his was it. Took the tank out again, cleaned it again, changed the separator and put 90 octane non ethanol gas in.
Back to the lake... Nothing.
Pulling the carb and sending back to National to repair under warranty.
This is where I am at.
------------- bblakley
|
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-15-2014 at 9:27am
You didn't replace the impeller at the initial phase of work after it sat for 10years? If not, it might've pulled water for a few minutes but the fins should've sheared off at the point from dry rot so I can understand Orlando Nautiques saying it wasn't pulling, very plausible.
As a rule of thumb, I hate rebuilt carbs, especially mass produced rebuilds. I know you bought a rebuilt carb first but the best thing would've been taking to Orlando Nautiques, purchased one of their new Holley's at an inflated rate and have them install it, this way if it doesn't work, it's their problem.
I have a dumb question, While at the lake (or better yet, save a trip and hook up to the hose) have you yourself pulled the flame arrestor off and visually looked at the inside of carb to see what it was doing?
Do you have the boat now or is it still at ON?
I hadnt heard anything about plugs? I'm sure new plugs were installed initially but at this point I'm sure you should pull and clean as they might be fouled out.
Sounds like floats aren't adjusted right?
|
Posted By: bblakley
Date Posted: August-15-2014 at 11:00am
Still here at home. Going to wait for rebuilt carb to be repaired.
Not griping, but you all might have the bucks to sink into a boat like you talk about, but I don't. So we have been working on this a bit at a time with my boys. It's been a fun project. (Yes new plugs). You all have been at this for a long time, I am just trying to get a boat going to share with my boys now that they are grown up so I can pass on some fun. We're learning a bunch as we go, but I didn't realize things like replacing the impeller at first. Not like there is a list here online to follow if you are going to restore a boat. (although plenty of good information, we are trainable!) I might very well have to get a new Holley, and pay ON to put her in, but have been trying to do this a step at a time from the start. I thought we we pretty good redoing the entire fuel system, then reworking the Plug wires, Plugs, Cap and Rotor and battery. That was a good place to start. We've also put new Valve Cover gaskets and manifold gaskets on and a thermostat. (should have seen the old thermostat!). We've done a little rewiring.
We'll wait and see if the rebuilt helps. If not, I'll see about that new Holley.
------------- bblakley
|
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: August-15-2014 at 11:04am
Or a quick fuel.
-------------
|
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-15-2014 at 11:18am
Brian - The experience you have given your boys, working on a machine, is worth many times the parts cost you have laid out. I'm sure they have picked up tips they will use the rest of their lives.
Good luck on the carb!
------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin
|
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-15-2014 at 11:23am
Bryan, There's a very recent topic, Bad Power Valve, No Power Varlve , check the link half way in it.
I think that's a great step by step procedure to check when your carb comes in.
|
|