Circulating Pump
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34126
Printed Date: October-08-2024 at 8:30am
Topic: Circulating Pump
Posted By: bgunscfd7
Subject: Circulating Pump
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 12:51am
Hello Guys and Gals,
Does anyone know how to replace a circulating pump on a 1999 Air Nautique, PCM gt40 5.8 HO? Is it difficult? I searched the forum but have found nothing. It's squeaking pretty good and wanted to know if I could do it myself.
Thanks ahead!
|
Replies:
Posted By: Richard Wong
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 6:20am
four years ago, when I pull the engine for rebuild,I changed the raw water pump,It's pretty easy even some screws were serious rusted. But I found the bump still in goo condition even I thought it's no good,it use brass impeller so not seems will wear.it may hard to change the pump without pull out the engine,may be some body
had experience here could tell you, but worth to diagnose it carefully.
|
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 9:24am
Shouldn't be too bad on a direct drive. There's not a
lot of documentation on here because it doesn't seem to come up a whole lot.
Make sure you keep track, pictures if possible, of how the brackets and fasteners are attached.
|
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 10:43am
It's not difficult at all. A SBC circulating pump has bolts that are tapped into the block water jacket. You need to coat those bolt threads with a sealer when you put them back in.
I assume the GT40 is the same but I'll defer to others that would know for sure.
-------------
When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.
Eddie
|
Posted By: bgunscfd7
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 11:31am
Eddie,
The boat is a direst drive so you can see the circ pump right up in the front of the motor. I'll try and grab a picture. I looks like it's not to bad and I can still reuse the pulley that's on the current pump. So it I pull those bolts water will just leak out of there and know other fluids? I just need to reseal the bolts with something. What kind of sealant do you think might be best.
thanks!!
|
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 1:01pm
Reusing the pulley isn't a problem at all. Like I said, these instructions are what I know based on the SBC. I gotta believe that a SBF is the same or very close to it.
I would pull the block drain plugs first and let the water drain into the bilge. Just less messy that way.
Then remove the pump. Pay attention to what bolts come out of what holes. The SBC has I think three different length bolts they use and they have to go back in the same holes or you'll have sealing problems.
The SBC has two gaskets that need to be installed on the inlet and outlet of the pump where it bolts to the block. Put a thin coat of gasket sealer on those gaskets if you have them before installation.
You should be able to see immediately what bolts (if any) are tapped into the water jacket. Make sure that you wire brush and clean up the bolts good as well as the tapped threads in the block.
Any bolts that are tapped into the water jacket just put a coat of any good silicone thread sealant on them.
If I remember when I get home tonight, I'll look and see what one I have used but I know there are several from Permatex that would work just fine as well as several others.
Put it all back together and leave it sit overnight to make sure the sealant has a chance to cure.
NOTE: I know there are some sealants that are designed so the engine can be put back into service as soon as you put it all back together but I prefer to leave it sit overnight before filling the block with water. Entirely your option if you use that type sealant.
Then you can run it and make sure there are no leaks. Have fun from there.
Also make sure that you replace the old pump with a marine pump. Marine pumps have either brass or stainless impellers that don't corrode.
Keep us updated.
-------------
When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.
Eddie
|
Posted By: bgunscfd7
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 3:11pm
thanks Eddie. Sorry but I can't figure out what SBF and SBC mean. ???
Here is a link to the pump that I will replace it with.
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WP-2225MN
|
Posted By: kytom2
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 3:37pm
SBF = Small block Ford
SBC = Small block Chevrolet
-------------
|
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 3:51pm
One thing I'd like to add seeing that you sound new to doing your own wrenching,you better make sure it's the pump making the noise and not the belts,would be an awful lot of work only to find out you could just had to replace a belt. Pull the belt off and turn the pump slowly by hand to see if you can feel a bad bearing. Usually they leak before a bearing goes.
-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport
|
Posted By: bgunscfd7
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 4:26pm
Gary that's a great idea, I will make sure I do that.
Thanks I will keep posting as I make progress.
|
Posted By: bgunscfd7
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 4:27pm
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: July-16-2014 at 11:29pm
I'm betting Gary is right. If you said it leaked or rattled I'd say pump, a squeak is more likely a belt or maybe the raw water pump slightly misaligned or not tensioned enough.
Did you get a chance to check it out?
-------------
'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
|
Posted By: bgunscfd7
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 3:24pm
Haven't had a chance yet, I was working, I'm a firefighter son long shifts. I I'm going to check it out today.
Thanks so much everyone. Keep the thoughts coming if somebody thinks of something else.
Bill
|
Posted By: malibud
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 6:40pm
|
depending on hours if you go that far maybe change timing chain. Ive heard 1000 hrs but not sure. It wasn't hard on a 1985 351 .2001 just have to get the impact between the ski pole
|
Posted By: bgunscfd7
Date Posted: July-17-2014 at 7:25pm
Ok guys so here it is. Long story short my thermostat went bad and was stuck in the closed position so no water was going into the water jacket or circ pump. I replaced the thermostat with a 160 degree from the original 140 degree because that what was recommended by Nautique parts.com. Of course now water is actually getting to the circ pump, so no more churp. So all is well. Just need to get a gasket sealant now for the thermostat gasket, I forgot to gather that at the store and was anxious to see if that was the problem, the housing leaked a bit but she ran great! no churp from circ pump.
Thanks for all the help guys
Bill
|
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-18-2014 at 11:01am
Good to hear.
Unusual to fail like that. I haven't seen one fail closed but I'm certainly no expert. I guess anything is possible under the right conditions.
-------------
When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.
Eddie
|
|