95 SuperSport Engine Question
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34259
Printed Date: September-27-2024 at 1:35pm
Topic: 95 SuperSport Engine Question
Posted By: burban89
Subject: 95 SuperSport Engine Question
Date Posted: July-28-2014 at 3:12pm
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Ok so I have done a lot of research on my problem but now I think I may have done that for nothing. First question is does the GT40 I have, have an FCC, I thought it did but after looking a little deeper it seems it may not as in 95 I may have a different GT40 than 96+. Now to the problem The boat has started to stutter/hesitate after it gets warm. It could take an hour or maybe even 4 hours for it to happen but it does happen. The boat takes off normal and then around 12-14 mph it will hesitate like it isn't getting fuel or enough power to get on plane. If it does get on plane it stops hesitating until I take off again. After trying to plane a few times it will not even get over 12-14 mph.The RPMs do jump a little during the hesitation. So most of the research I did revolved around the FCC, the hose inside the FCC, etc as a good culprit. I have checked the filter and anti siphon valve. They seem to be ok. I just do not want to start throwing parts at this if someone else has experienced it and can help me. Thanks       
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Replies:
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-29-2014 at 10:39am
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No FCC on a '95 When was the last time you did a complete tune up? |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: July-29-2014 at 10:43am
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It was done before I purchased it, I have had it for 1.5 years. I was thinking about doing one just in case it was not done. Cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. I pulled a few plugs and the looked pretty good. Does it seem more electrical than fuel? |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: July-29-2014 at 10:43am
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I agree on the complete tune up – while it doesn’t have an fcc this could still be a fuel supply related issue, either the low pressure fuel pump or the fuel pump relay would be my first look. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: July-29-2014 at 10:52am
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I was going to change both relays as well since they are only 15$ a piece. I may just do it all one part at a time and see what fixes it, that way I know and can let others know as well. I have not ran across this problem on any other searches. |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: July-29-2014 at 10:52am
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Quick question, What plugs and wires are recommended for this motor? |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: July-29-2014 at 10:59am
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Autolite 764 Plug wires have to come from a PCM dealer. IE me or any other PCM dealer. ------------- |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: July-29-2014 at 11:51am
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I actually bought this boat from a guy up in Indianapolis. I will see if my local dealer has anything in stock for wires. Also, i noticed that there are multiple options for Dist caps, do you know which one this is? I can check later this evening if not. I will keep everyone posted on results. |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: August-04-2014 at 1:29pm
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A little update, I changed the plugs and Dist cap/button and it is running a lot better. There is still a very small hesitation/stuttering when accelerating. Barely noticeable but since I know what I am looking for I feel it. I also tried the relays after that and there was no change. Just keeping them for spares. Looks like I am going to do the wires next. Does this boat have a stator? Is it easy to change? |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-04-2014 at 1:43pm
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It does have a stator, it's part of the distributor. I don't know how easy it is to change or if that's warranted. How old is the fuel that you're running? Also, yes, doing the spark plug wires too is a good idea. |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: August-04-2014 at 2:38pm
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The fuel is good as I run the boat regularly. It has never really sat for a long time either. I ran some cleaners through it as well in case it was water or dirty. I just ordered the wires and should have them tomorrow so I will check it out and update everyone by Thursday depending on the weather. |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: August-06-2014 at 9:19pm
| since the stutter is still there, I think it would be prudent to put a fuel pressure gauge on and see if you have the correct fuel delivery pressure. You may have the start of a weak fuel pump that was accentuated poor ignition condition. |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 9:23am
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It was bad again last night, wires still haven't shown up but should be here today. They were back ordered and I called around till I found them in stock. I will get a gauge and check fuel pressure tonight also. Here is a crappy video but you can see and hear what it is doing. http://youtu.be/yIV4fJbrMk0 |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 9:51am
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Proper link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yIV4fJbrMk0" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yIV4fJbrMk0 |
Posted By: malibud
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 3:14pm
| Mine kinda did the same change out the relays since you have them . That's whAt. I did and all good now |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 3:19pm
| I did change the relays with no change in performance. |
Posted By: malibud
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 3:23pm
| fuel filter . It just sounds fuel related . |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 3:34pm
| I am testing the fuel pressure today when I get home. The filter seemed to be clean and flowing and the anti siphon valve seemed ok. Just hope it is not the pump(s) cause they do not seem cheap from some pricing I have seen. |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 3:53pm
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not cheap, but it is usually the low pressure pump... eventually it gives out all together and you know for sure. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 4:36pm
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whats the proper way to test the pumps if pressure is messed up? thanks for all the replies. |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 4:45pm
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Very stupid question for me, in Pic 2 is that one of the pumps? In the last pic is the small black thing a pump as well? Or a type of filter? Where is the LP pump if neither of those are it. Looking at diagrams and confusing myself. Thanks |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 5:13pm
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I think this is what you want: http://www.nautiqueparts.com/fuelpumpelectric2stagefprpcmgt40engineswithoutfuelcontrolcell1995tomid1996.aspx" rel="nofollow - http://www.nautiqueparts.com/fuelpumpelectric2stagefprpcmgt40engineswithoutfuelcontrolcell1995tomid1996.aspx I'm sure Zach can hook you up, and you should double check anyway before ordering. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 5:20pm
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Was that full throttle in your video? If so I would stop the ignition checks and start testing the fuel pumps. Your last pic is the low pressure pump. Lewy posted this picture of how to jump the STO to ground which will turn on both pumps to check for proper operation. 
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Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 5:24pm
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that was about 3/4 throttle. So the little black round dome one is the LP pump? I must be looking at the wrong diagram. Can you link me to that post? going to start checking fuel and pumps tonight. |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 5:25pm
| The boat was weighted at the time so it was going a little slower. The day before we wakeboarded and was hardly any hesitation. Then last night it was back full hesitation so we dropped the weight and went home. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 5:56pm
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I do know that 2nd picture is a pump that according to Zach at N3 Boatworks is getting hard to get. I would advise to call him for parts. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 6:03pm
| I guess the one in the second is the high pressure pump then? Do the non-FCC boats still have a high and a low? I saw "two stage" in the description and got confused. Sorry for any misinformation. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 6:11pm
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The second picture is the high pressure and is hard piped the the fuel rails. Here's a beter picture on the pumps plumbing http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/95%20Nautique%20pictures/DSC00330.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  In this picture you can see the two hard lines from the pump to the fuel rails http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/95%20Nautique%20pictures/DSC00342.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> 
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Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 7:04pm
your low pressure pump is in the lower right of this picture, it looks like a canister with a line coming out the top. SKIDIM has them. you should have 40PSI IIRC at the fuel rail (high pressure pump), but the flow comes from the low pressure pump. hesitation sounds like a fuel delivery issue, when mine went, it would not suck fuel out of the tank, so the pressure was low, but registering. I took the line off at the TBI (94-95 only) and had no flow. |
burban89 wrote:Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 7:27pm
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There was a thread that someone posted with very similar problems ended up being a clogged screen or tank pickup tube in the tank. After checking the pumps and pressure (which is easy way to start) then I would start at the tank pump/pickup and work forward. |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 10:33pm
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Ok so I went through the fuel system again. Pick up tube is clean. Screen in HP is clean. Fuel pressure- 36-38 idle and accelerating. When it does hesitate it drops to 12 or low teens. How do I know what pump is the problem. If it is a pump? I took it all apart and connections look good. |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: August-08-2014 at 12:38pm
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Another question, one post someone mentioned the fuse after the battery caused them a bunch of issues and once removed it helped. Could that be an issue? My buddy seems to remember seeing it corroded/oxidized. Also did not check the screen in top of the LP so I will do that as well. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-08-2014 at 1:05pm
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That fuse issue sounds familiar. It's definitely worth checking out. I found this thread that mentions it: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24848&PN=3&title=gt40-engine-loping" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24848&PN=3&title=gt40-engine-loping |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-08-2014 at 1:05pm
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I think that was lewy and his 98 Sport. If I recall it was a PCM tech bulletin he had found. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 12:44pm
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Ugh nothing but more problems... changed both pumps and still not fixed, started having more voltage/electrical issues. Tried to tighten up alt belt and the alt case snapped at bolt hole. Replaced it and went on to clean more wires and check for issues when the bolt in the starter solenoid stripped. Replaced it and now I am not getting voltage to gauge. I am going to trace out the electrical wiring and test everything but it seems everything I touch I break. :-( |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 3:19pm
 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 9:04pm
Never received confirmation back from PCM on the EEC Power Circuit. Here is http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25723&KW=&title=gt40-retrofit-computer-power" rel="nofollow - Lewy's GT40 EEC Power Retrofit ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: August-28-2014 at 11:27pm
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Ok so a new development. The boat will not go over 3500. Rpms. It surges and the rpms drop and come back up. So any ideas? I am guessing it was not going over 3500 Rpms the whole time and I didn't make that connection. Fuel pumps new Alternator new- made a big difference on voltage, other must have been going bad Starter solenoid new Fuel and ECM relay new Kill switch direct wired Any ideas? What can I test now? I need all the help |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: August-29-2014 at 10:08am
It may be going into SLOW(limp)mode although it normally keep the rpms below 2700rpms . Disconnect the wire from the temperature switch and oil switch they are independent of the senders that go to the temp and oil gauges. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: August-29-2014 at 10:09am
| I am going to try unhooking oil pressure sensor and temp sensor tonight to see if maybe its that. What rpms are people turning at 24 mph? Maybe my rpm gauge is off. |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: August-29-2014 at 10:12am
| We posted at almost the same time :-) thanks and that's what I am planning! It has been a bizarre issue and I am ready for it to be over. I have missed alot of time on the water because of this. I have broke more parts trying to fix it than anything. |
Posted By: Jimn
Date Posted: September-07-2014 at 2:48pm
| Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I am having a very similar problem with my 1990 carburated Sport Nautique with a Ford 351 PCM engine. After about an hour of running perfectly at high RPMs, the engine bogs down and won't go over about 3,000 RPM. It almost feels like there is seaweed around the prop, but it is indeed clear. I did have the carb rebuilt by a quality shop before this started happening, but both the shop owner and I think it is strange that the engine runs beautifully for so long, and then begins bogging down. do you think the oil and temp sender could be a problem on my engine? Or does that feature referred to above (the engine shutting down intentionally when oil pressure drops or temp increases too hot)only pertain to fuel injected, newer engines? Any response today would be greatly appreciated, as I am out at the Colorado River and debated whether or not to tow the boat back home in San Diego! |
Posted By: Jimn
Date Posted: September-07-2014 at 2:51pm
| one more thing, this has happened several times, not just once. I have gone through about 3 straight cycles of running well for an hour, then bogging down, then next time out runs perfectly for an hour, etc. In the meantime, I have replaced the water/fuel separator and fuel filter resulting in no change... |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: September-07-2014 at 4:35pm
| If you have the Protec ignition it will go to limp mode if a over temp or low oil pressure condition is detected. Limp mode limits the RPM's. There are two switches on the engine that look like temp and oil sending units. The oil switch is near the oil filter and the temp switch is on the front of the intake manifold. You can disconnect both of them and the Protec will operate normally. Your engine will also have oil and temp sending units that drive your gauges. If you disconnect the wrong ones it won't hurt anything but your gauges won't read correctly. I would disconnect the switches and see if you still have a problem. If it goes away then connect one at a time to see which one is malfunctioning. Good Luck. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-07-2014 at 6:35pm
| Jim, if you don't have Protec, it could be a coil overheating issue. |
Posted By: burban89
Date Posted: September-09-2014 at 8:19am
| I think we solved my problem last night or at least hope so. We replaced the fuel filter even though it was only a year old and every thing seemed to run better. I dumped the fuel from the filter into a bottle and it was all dark and dirty, just a few weeks ago it was clear. I am still not 100% sure it is fixed but we had some good runs last night with no stuttering and will give it a full test this weekend if the weather holds out. |
Posted By: Jimn
Date Posted: September-09-2014 at 8:36pm
| Hope the new fuel filter works! Could someone tell me how I can determine if my 1990 Sport Nautique with a 351 hp Ford PCM engine has a Protec ignition system installed? What would I look for? |
Posted By: kylem428
Date Posted: September-09-2014 at 9:21pm
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Protec systems generate spark from coil packs located above the bell housing at the rear of the engine. Easiest way to tell if you have a protec is to see where your spark plug wires come from. If they come from the back, it's a protec. If they come from a distributor in front of your carb it's not. If it is a protec, take a look at the coil packs for a brownish sticky goo (epoxy like) substance leaking from them. If you find this, the system is likely shot and it would be easiest to do the Mallory electronic distributor conversion from ski-dim to get back on the water quickly and easily. Other guys gave done other DUI distributor conversions but that requires tapping in to the wire harness, where as the kit is basically plug and play. Your looking at about $500 for the kit if I recall correctly. Kyle |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: September-10-2014 at 10:54am
ProTec wasn't introduced until '91. You don't have it unless it was some sort of a one-off special test edition that nobody knows about. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |