Pertronix Confussion
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34275
Printed Date: October-08-2024 at 6:37am
Topic: Pertronix Confussion
Posted By: sam57
Subject: Pertronix Confussion
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 11:39am
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I'm getting a Pertronix conversion kit for my 1977 Southwind with a PCM 351 engine. Do I, or don't I get the Pertronix coil, and what about the ballast resistor? Sam |
Replies:
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 12:29pm
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Don't get the coil,the resistor or the Pertronix kit either ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 12:36pm
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Buy a new set of points, lube the cam block well & they will last longer than the Pertronix. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: sam57
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 2:12pm
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Funny, I was thinking along those same lines after reading some of the horror stories in other posts. Sam |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 2:56pm
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+1 ^^^ ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 9:14pm
I agree. Keep the point set. What do you expect to gain with the conversion??? Hopefully nothing because that's all you will get. In fact, the conversion is unreliable so you are going backwards!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
SNobsessed wrote:Posted By: sam57
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 11:06pm
| My engine breaks-up after half hour or so running time. I've replaced points, condenser, cap, rotor, wires, and plugs, with no improvement, could it be the coil? If I replace the coil would I use a 12 volt external resistor type? |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 11:50pm
| You say it breaks up after an hour of running time. But then, it's fine after it cools off? |
Posted By: sam57
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 1:22am
| I didn't try starting til the next day, was difficult to get running but eventually smoothed out. The same thing happens every time I take it out. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 2:14am
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Probably the coil. ------------- |
Posted By: sam57
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 11:43am
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Thanks to everyone for the help and advice. I'll change the coil today and hope for the best. Sam |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 11:52am
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Call Zach, I think you want a 9V coil. ------------- |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 11:53am
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Gap the points and check dwell. Confirm the Ballast resistor is working properly and install a new 12V externally resisted coil. Once you have confirmed that the ballast resistor is wired and working properly crank it up and set the timing around 8-10 BTDC at idle. Ignore the 6 Degree decal on the engine. It makes them lazy and they don't start as briskly. After that if everything else is in check, kick back, grab a beer, and enjoy the sounds coming from your newly discovered talent in setting up a points ignition system. Also, lubricate and confirm the ignition advance in the distributor is working as it should. ------------- |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 12:03pm
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HW is correct but in todays world they usually say 12V externally resisted. Coils were designed to operate with 6v systems. Instead of developing new technology in the 50s to make them operate on 12v they just threw in an inline resister to bring the voltage to coil down. People always wire the ignition conversions improperly and overheat the non internally resisted coils. They will actually run for quite a while before they start showing symptoms. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 9:14pm
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: sam57
Date Posted: August-01-2014 at 12:11pm
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Is there a particular brand of coil I should buy, or will a generic from Auto Zone do? Sam |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-01-2014 at 12:22pm
Most here seem to recommend the MSD Blaster High Vibration Coil: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8222/" rel="nofollow - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8222/ |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-01-2014 at 12:31pm
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And keep the wiring the same (use the ballast resistor) with that coil ------------- |
Posted By: sam57
Date Posted: August-01-2014 at 5:18pm
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I have a MSD coil on another PCM 351 engine. The coil is a Blaster 2, number PN 8202. But, I've never run the engine and don't know if the coil is any good. Is there any way to test the coil, or just try it and see if the problem is corrected? |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-01-2014 at 5:36pm
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I have the 8202 on my 351, even layed on its side (no no for oil filled) and been running fine the last 13 years, probably longer with the previous owner. If your old coil is too hot to touch when your boat stops running it is likely bad. ------------- |
Posted By: sam57
Date Posted: August-01-2014 at 5:58pm
| Thanks, I'll give it a go. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-01-2014 at 6:12pm
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You say that Kevin but when you really think about it PCM has been putting them on their sides forever. I think the problem starts when people change things on the cheap or think they are improving items that I'm sure that PCM spent some money on doing R&D ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-01-2014 at 6:13pm
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Yep, all the original oil filled coils I've seen in the 80s PCMs have been mounted the same, sideways... That's not to say I wouldn't buy the epoxy filled coil #8222 if I were replacing one today. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-01-2014 at 8:54pm
Yes, You need an Ohm meter. Values can be Googled. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: sam57
Date Posted: August-13-2014 at 10:34pm
| Finally able to get back to my Southwind. Installed the MSD coil, re-set the points and fired it up. Ran it hard (3600 RPM) for 15 minutes, then idled around for an hour. The engine didn't break-up like it did before changing the coils, but ran a bit rough during the high speed and the idling. Not bad, but noticeable. The coil was very warm, but not too hot to touch. Could the roughness be from not re-timing after setting the points? What should the timing be set at? |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-13-2014 at 11:11pm
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Roughness can be from many different causes, timing is one of them. Set the timing to between 8-10 deg before TDC. Also check so see that the advance is working - it should be advancing by 1500 & be at full timing by 4000 RPM. If it is still rough after verifying timing, pull plug wires off (gloves recomended) 1 at a time to see which cly is weak. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: sam57
Date Posted: August-13-2014 at 11:46pm
| What do you mean by "which cylinder is weak"? Do I check the advance by revving with the timing light connected? |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-14-2014 at 11:00am
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Yes, check the advance by reving the engine. A second person is handy to run the throttle & target the RPM. If you really want to do it right, get a degree tape (although I just measured 10 degree increments with calipers & scribed lines) so you know exactly how much advance you are getting. If the engine is running rough & it is not because of ignition timing, then it is likely that 1 or more cylinders is not firing cleanly (or at all). So by pulling a plug wire while idling, you can hear the engine's response to the loss of power. A strong cylinder will drop RPM noticibly, while a weak cylinder will have little or no effect. If you do find a weak cylinder, then you can investigate why (plug, wire, compression, etc). ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: sam57
Date Posted: August-24-2014 at 5:41pm
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Hi guys, I did everything you guys suggested and still had the problem, so I threw up my hands and took the boat to a former Correct Craft dealer. After checking everything electrical, they discovered the floats in the Holley were set without taking into consideration the engine sits at an angle and they re-set them and the boat runs perfect. The cost, $83. I've learned my lesson, NO MORE PLAYING MECHANIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks to all for their input, Sam PS The name of the shop is Back Bay Marine, Akron OH. owner Doug Hall |
Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 12:16am
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83 bucks? Buy that man a beer. No, buy him a case. |